Katrina Rosales
Oud, also known as Oudh, is an exotic, ancient and intensely fragrant essential oil. It is one of the most expensive raw fragrance ingredients in the world, valued at $5000 per pound. The oil is extracted from the resinous heartwood of the Aquilaria tree, which is native to the rainforests of Southeast Asia, India and Bangladesh. When the tree becomes infected with a specific type of fungus, it releases a fragrant resin that gradually saturates the heartwood, transforming it into agarwood, also known as oud. The oud oil is then extracted from the heartwood through distillation or by melting the resin. The scent of oud is often described as warm, intense, earthy, sweet and sensual, with slight animalic nuances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of ingredient | Essential oil |
| Source | Agarwood, a resinous compound from the heartwood of the Aquilaria tree |
| Aquilaria tree species | Aquilaria malaccensis |
| Aquilaria tree origin | Native to Southeast Asia, India, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos, Malaysia, Vietnam |
| Aquilaria tree infection | By a specific type of fungus (parasitic mould) Phialophora parasitica |
| Extraction methods | Distillation from the wood, melting the resin, steam distillation |
| Scent | Warm, intense, earthy, sweet, musky, animalic, balsamic, nutty, woody, spicy, leathery |
| Use in perfumes | Base note |
| Other uses | Spiritual, therapeutic, medicinal, incense |
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$36.4 $59.99
What You'll Learn
The Aquilaria tree
The formation of oud involves the resinous compound produced by the tree, which is rich in odorous molecules. The resin starts to change the colour, aroma, and composition of the wood, forming the resinous heartwood that becomes hard over time. Both the resin and the resinous heartwood are referred to as oud.
The oud extraction process involves either melting the hard aromatic resin or distilling the resinous wood through methods such as steam distillation. The resulting oud oil is then used to craft decadent fragrances known for their depth, warmth, and intensity. The scent profile of oud can vary depending on the species of Aquilaria tree, with some resins having a sweeter aroma while others are smokier and more balsamic.
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Infection by mould/fungus
Oud, also known as Oudh or Agarwood, is derived from the resinous heartwood of the Agar tree, a tropical evergreen tree of the Aquilaria species. The Agar tree is native to the rainforests of Southeast Asia, particularly in India, Bangladesh, Indonesia, and Thailand.
The distinctive fragrance of oud is a result of the infection of the Agar tree's heartwood by a specific type of fungus or parasitic mould, known as Phaeoacremonium mould or Parasitica. In response to this fungal attack, the tree releases a sticky, dark resin as a defensive mechanism to protect and heal itself. This resin gradually alters the colour, aroma, and composition of the wood, forming the resinous heartwood that becomes hard over time. The resin and the resinous heartwood are collectively referred to as oud.
The formation of oud through mould infection is a rare occurrence, contributing to its high value and expense. It is estimated that only about 2% of wild Agar trees produce oud due to the specific conditions required. A mature fungal infection is necessary for high-quality agarwood production, and trees older than 50 years are preferred for their superior resin content. Additionally, artificial methods to induce infection have been employed, although the resulting oud is less concentrated and valuable compared to naturally infected trees.
The oud used in perfumery is extracted from the resinous heartwood through distillation or by melting the hard aromatic resin. The extracted oil is then utilised to craft exquisite oud fragrances that are known for their depth, allure, and unique scent profiles. The rarity, historical significance, and captivating aroma of oud have made it a sought-after ingredient in the world of perfumery, despite its high cost and labour-intensive extraction process.
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Tree's immune response
Trees are an essential part of our ecosystem, and spending time around them has been shown to have numerous benefits for our health, including boosting our immune systems. The Japanese practice of "forest bathing" or "shinrin-yoku", which involves short, leisurely visits to forests, is regarded as a form of natural aromatherapy. Research has shown that this practice can improve physical and mental health, reduce stress, lower blood pressure, and enhance mood.
Trees play a crucial role in our immune response by releasing phytoncides, airborne chemicals that protect them from disease. Phytoncides have antibacterial and antifungal properties, and when inhaled by humans, they strengthen our immune system. Specifically, they increase the number and activity of Natural Killer (NK) cells, which are specialized immune cells that fight against tumors and virus-infected cells.
Terpenes, a specific type of phytoncide, have been found to have additional benefits. They exhibit anti-inflammatory effects and enhance the innate immune response by increasing immune cell activity. The act of forest bathing has been shown to have a lasting impact, with increased NK cell activity lasting for more than 30 days after a 3-day, 2-night forest trip.
The agar tree, from which the valuable oud perfume is derived, is a tropical evergreen tree native to the rainforests of Southeast Asia, India, and Bangladesh. When infected by a specific type of fungus in its heartwood, the tree releases a dark, fragrant resin as a natural defence mechanism. This resin gradually saturates the heartwood, forming the resinous heartwood known as oud over time.
The oud used in perfumery is typically extracted from the Aquilaria malaccensis tree, one of the fifteen species within the Aquilaria genus. The unique fragrance of oud is described as warm, intense, earthy, and sensual, with slight animalic nuances. The scent can vary depending on the species of Aquilaria tree, with some resins having sweeter aromas while others are smokier and more balsamic.
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Extraction methods
Oud perfume is derived from the essential oil extracted from agarwood, which is a fragrant, dark and resinous wood. Agarwood is formed in the heartwood of Aquilaria trees after they become infected with a type of fungus, typically due to an injury caused by weather or insects. The tree then secretes a resin in response to the fungal infection, which results in the dark and fragrant wood known as agarwood.
The extraction of oud oil from agarwood can be done through two main methods: distillation of the wood or melting of the resin. In the distillation process, the resin-infused wood chips are first hand-carved from the trunk and roots of the tree, which can take several hours. The wood chips are then put through steam distillation to obtain the essential oil. This method is commonly used in traditional perfumery.
On the other hand, the resin can be extracted by melting the hard aromatic resin. This method is a lengthy and labor-intensive process as it requires the natural formation of the resin within the tree. The resin is produced by the tree as a defensive mechanism against the fungal infection, and it can take years or even decades for the resin to fully saturate the heartwood.
The extraction method and the specific species of Aquilaria tree used contribute to the varying aromatic qualities of oud oil. The oil is composed of over 150 chemical compounds, including terpenoids, agarofurans, and volatile aromatic compounds. The balance of these compounds depends on factors such as the age and species of the tree, as well as the extraction process employed.
Due to the rarity and complex extraction process of oud, it is considered one of the most expensive fragrance ingredients in the world.
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History and cultural significance
Oud, also known as 'liquid gold' or 'black gold', is an intensely fragrant oil with a long and storied past that predates modern perfumery by thousands of years. The name 'oud' comes from the Arabic word for
The use of oud can be traced back to ancient times, with references to the substance found in various religious texts and traditions. In the Islamic world, the Prophet Muhammad held the tradition of fumigation with agarwood, and the substance is mentioned in several Islamic Hadith. In the Hebrew Bible, the Song of Songs describes oud as a form of incense, and King Solomon is said to have "come[] up from the desert like a column of smoke, perfumed with myrrh and incense". Oud also appears in the Sanskrit Vedas, the Mahābhārata, and the Old Testament, where it is referred to as agarwood. In Buddhist tradition, the most precious string of beads is made of agarwood, and the substance is burned by monks to aid meditation.
Oud has long been valued in many cultures, especially in the Middle East, Southeast Asia, and the Indian subcontinent, where it is used in spiritual rituals, herbal medicine, and perfumery. In the Middle East, oud is considered a fundamental ingredient of perfumery and is widely used as a traditional aromatic and perfume. It is also burned as incense in mosques, temples, and family homes as a token of hospitality. The use of oud in the region is so prevalent that it is often referred to as a "way of life".
The rarity and expense of oud are due to the fact that it can only be produced by Agar trees that have been infected with a specific type of mould or fungus. It is believed that only one out of ten trees may have the infected heartwood necessary to produce oud, and it can take decades for the resin to fully saturate the heartwood. The high demand for oud, coupled with the low supply, has led to the Aquilaria tree becoming a threatened species in many countries.
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Frequently asked questions
Oud perfume is made from the essential oil extracted from the resinous heartwood of the Aquilaria tree.
The Aquilaria tree is a species of evergreen native to Southeast Asia and North India.
Oud oil is extracted from the heartwood of the Aquilaria tree through steam distillation or by melting the resin.
When the inside of the tree becomes infected with a particular fungus, the tree reacts by producing a fragrant resin that embeds into the heart of the wood.
Oud is described as having warm, musky, sweet, and earthy notes.
