The Evolution Of Colognes: Reformulation Explained

Colognes and perfumes are reformulated for a variety of reasons, including cost-cutting, ingredient shortages, and regulatory changes. Companies may dilute a product or substitute cheaper ingredients to save money, particularly after a large company acquires a smaller one. Ingredient shortages can also drive reformulation, as some natural ingredients are becoming rare or extinct, leading to increased costs or the need to find alternatives. Regulatory changes, such as those implemented by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), can ban or restrict the use of certain ingredients due to health, safety, or environmental concerns, forcing perfumers to reformulate their products. While reformulation can sometimes improve a fragrance, it often results in a noticeable and disappointing difference in scent for loyal customers.

Banned and restricted ingredients

Fragrances are often reformulated due to the banning or restricting of certain ingredients. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the EU are the main regulatory bodies that impose these restrictions. These organisations are constantly updating their rules and regulations to ensure that products are allergen-free and safe for consumers.

One of the most well-known examples of a restricted ingredient in the fragrance industry is oakmoss. Oakmoss was heavily used in old-school and elite perfumery but is now restricted due to its allergenic properties. Other natural ingredients that have been banned or restricted include animal-based notes such as civet or castoreum, lilial (lily of the valley), and lyral. These restrictions can be challenging for perfumers as they have to adapt to using new ingredients or discontinue their fragrances altogether.

In addition to allergy concerns, some ingredients may be banned or restricted due to sustainability issues. For example, oud, which is formed from the rotting wood of an Agar tree, and ambergris, a rare occurrence of whale excrement, are in short supply or endangered. In these cases, perfumers may choose to replace the ingredient with a synthetic replica or discontinue the fragrance.

While the primary goal of these regulations is to protect consumers, there has been some backlash from both the industry and consumers. Some argue that the restrictions go too far and that labelling requirements would be a better solution, allowing consumers to make informed decisions. Others worry about the impact of these regulations on the olfactory heritage of perfumery, with concerns that fragrances may all start to smell the same.

Cost-cutting

Colognes and perfumes are reformulated for a variety of reasons, one of which is cost-cutting. Companies are interested in making a profit, so if their margins decrease, they may look for ways to increase them. This can include reducing the concentration of perfume in a fragrance or substituting expensive ingredients for cheaper ones. This can be due to an increase in the cost of ingredients or a decrease in their availability.

For example, ambergris is an expensive ingredient used to fix fragrances to the skin, making them last longer. It is rare and costly, formed only in the intestines of sperm whales and pygmy sperm whales. As such, perfume makers may opt for a synthetic alternative to keep costs down.

Similarly, in 2020, the ingredient lillial was declared illegal, and in 2015, the molecule lilal, which smells like lily of the valley, was banned by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Substitutes for lilal can cost up to twice as much, impacting the final cost of the concentrate.

Other factors that can impact the cost of ingredients include climatic, economic, or political crises. For example, heavy rains in North Africa weakened the production of orange bigarade, while a drought in Egypt impacted the harvest of geraniums.

In some cases, cost-cutting measures may be implemented following a business acquisition. For instance, Tom Ford fragrances reportedly lost their "beastly performance" after being bought out by Estée Lauder.

Keeping up with an ever-changing market

The cologne market is ever-changing, and sometimes a little reformulation breathes new life into a fragrance. If a classic is not selling anymore, it has to move with the times or risk disappearing altogether.

A reformulation can be an attempt to appeal to a fresh audience. The scent may be subtly altered in a good way, and while some people may be sad because it no longer smells like their favourite scent, others may embrace the change. New fans may be won over by the new fragrance, and it may become their new favourite.

However, reformulating a popular fragrance is always a risky move as there's no way of knowing how the fanbase will receive the changes. Sometimes they love it, and sometimes they don't. If the scent is different and not in a good way, no one wants to buy the reformulated scent, and the company may mourn the loss of what was once a classic fragrance.

The perfume market is always changing, and companies must keep up with the times to renew the popularity of their fragrances with the up-and-coming generation of fragrance buyers.

Ingredient shortages

For example, ambergris is a classic example of a costly perfume ingredient. It is very effective as an agent that fixes a fragrance to our skin, making it last longer. However, ambergris only forms in the intestines of sperm whales and pygmy sperm whales and is expelled through their rectum. It then floats in the ocean, sometimes for years, until it washes up on beaches. Due to its rarity, ambergris costs a small fortune – over $10,000 per pound.

Perfumers may also be forced to reformulate in a hurry due to a shortage of a specific ingredient. For instance, many perfumers remember the patchouli crisis in the early 2000s, which they had to navigate quickly as they could not obtain the precious essence. Similarly, heavy rains in North Africa weakened the production of orange bigarade, while a drought in Egypt heavily impacted the harvest of geraniums.

To avoid these situations, more and more producers of natural raw materials are turning to a reasoned management of their crops and stocks.

Business acquisition

For example, when Estée Lauder bought Tom Ford fragrances, the perfumes' performance suffered. This is a common occurrence when a business acquisition takes place, as the new owners may not have access to the same distributors and will source different oils, changing the scent.

Therefore, while business acquisitions can bring benefits to the companies involved, consumers may suffer as a result of modifications to their favourite fragrances.

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