The Origin Of Musk: A Fragrance History

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name musk was originally given to a substance with a strong odor obtained from the glands of male musk deer. The substance has been used as a perfume fixative since ancient times and is one of the most expensive animal products in the world. Due to ethical concerns, natural musk obtained from deer has been prohibited, and synthetic alternatives are used almost exclusively in modern perfumery. One of the pioneers of synthetic musk was Albert Baur, who accidentally discovered an artificial musk while experimenting with TNT explosives in 1888. Today, musk fragrances are widely used, with numerous brands offering their own interpretations, such as Jōvan Musk, a popular line of cologne for men and women introduced in 1972.

The history of musk perfume

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name "musk" was originally given to a substance with a strong odor obtained from the glands of male musk deer. The substance has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times and is one of the most expensive animal products in the world. The deer musk was believed to be an aphrodisiac and was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century when economic and ethical concerns led to its gradual replacement by synthetic alternatives.

In the 6th century, Arab and Byzantine perfume makers began using musk in their fragrances. It was highly valued and generously used by the caliphs of Baghdad. The fragrant material was even added to the walls of mosques during construction, infusing the spaces with its scent when warmed by the sun. Al-Kindi, the renowned Arab philosopher, included musk in many of his perfume recipes, making it one of the most prized luxury goods imported from the East.

However, the use of natural musk declined in the late 19th century due to its high cost and ethical concerns. The process of obtaining musk required the killing of endangered musk deer, leading to the development of synthetic alternatives. In 1888, scientist Albert Baur accidentally discovered an artificial musk while experimenting with TNT explosives. This marked the beginning of synthetic musk production, which has since become the primary source of musk in the perfume industry.

Today, musk remains an essential ingredient in perfumery, valued for its ability to balance and enhance fragrances, adding a subtle touch of sensuality and warmth. Synthetic musk, also known as white musk, is widely used in modern perfumes, offering a more ethical and affordable alternative to natural musk. The development of synthetic musk has allowed perfumers to continue creating fragrances with the beloved musk scent while ensuring the protection and conservation of musk deer populations.

Natural vs synthetic musk

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name "musk" comes from the Late Greek "moskhos", derived from the Persian "mushk" and Sanskrit "muṣka", both of which mean "testicle". This is because the musk scent originally came from a substance with a strong odour obtained from a gland in the male musk deer, which was thought to resemble a scrotum.

Natural Musk

Natural musk is obtained from the male musk deer, by drying the reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod – a preputial gland in a pouch under the skin of the deer's abdomen. This paste is then turned into a powder and soaked in ethanol, resulting in a pleasant aroma. Natural musk also comes from a variety of other animals, including the muskrat, musk ox, musk duck, musk beetle, musk shrew, musk turtle, and the American alligator.

Natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century when it became too expensive and controversial. It is now a protected species, and its use is prohibited in perfumery and cosmetics. It is, however, still used in traditional Chinese medicine.

Synthetic Musk

Synthetic musk was first discovered by Albert Baur in 1888 while he was attempting to produce a more effective form of trinitrotoluene (TNT). Synthetic musks are designed to emulate the scent of deer musk and other animal musks, and they have a clean, smooth, and sweet scent without the fecal notes of animal musk. They are commonly used as flavourings and fixatives in cosmetics, detergents, perfumes, and foods.

Synthetic musk compounds have been found in human fat and breast milk, and they are known to accumulate in the environment. Several countries have banned certain types of synthetic musk due to potential health risks.

Comparison

Natural musk is more expensive and difficult to obtain, with around 160 deer needing to be killed to collect 1kg of musk. Synthetic musk, on the other hand, is relatively cheap and easy to produce. Natural musk has a strong, animalic scent, while synthetic musk is more subtle and often described as having a "baby's skin" smell.

How to obtain musk

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. It is a natural essence mainly obtained from the glands of musk deer, but it can also be extracted from other animals and plants.

From Musk Deer

Traditionally, musk is derived from the glands of the male musk deer (Moschus moschiferus). The musk pod is a preputial gland found in a pouch under the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer. To obtain the musk, the male deer is usually killed using traps laid in the wild. The reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod is then dried and turns into a black granular material called "musk grain". This is then tinctured with alcohol to obtain the pleasant aroma of musk.

However, due to ethical concerns and the endangered status of musk deer, this method of obtaining musk is prohibited in modern times.

From Other Animals

Musk-like secretions can also be obtained from a variety of other animals, including:

• Muskrat (Ondatra zibethicus)
• Musk duck (Biziura lobata)
• Muskox
• Musk shrew
• Musk beetle (Aromia moschata)
• African civet (Civettictis civetta)
• Musk turtle (Sternotherus odoratus)
• American alligator
• Lynx
• Several other animals

From Plants

Some plants, such as Angelica archangelica and Abelmoschus moschatus, produce musky-smelling macrocyclic lactone compounds. These plants are now widely used as substitutes for animal musk in perfumery.

Synthetic Musk

Synthetic musk is produced by mimicking the complex structure of natural musk through chemical processes in a laboratory environment. This method allows for the scent of musk to be obtained in a more accessible, environmentally friendly, and ethical manner. Synthetic musk can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds.

The development of synthetic musk was first achieved by accident in 1888 by the scientist Albert Baur while experimenting with TNT explosives. This type of synthetic musk, known as nitro-musk, was later banned due to instability and potential toxicity.

Today, the most commonly used synthetic musk in perfumery is polycyclic musk, while macrocyclic musk is more expensive to produce and resembles the natural scent of musk more closely.

Uses of musk

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. Here are some of its uses:

Use in Perfumes

Musk is a key constituent in many perfumes, acting as a base note that gives a subtle touch of sensuality and warmth to the fragrance. It is also a fixative, helping to reduce the evaporation rate and allowing the perfume to last longer while retaining its true fragrance.

Religious Significance

In Islam, musk is considered the most fragrant of scents and was widely used by the Prophet Muhammad and his companions. It is also mentioned in the Arab Muslim tradition, where popular scents include jasmine, amber, musk, and oud (agarwood).

Traditional Medicine

Musk is an important ingredient in traditional Chinese medicine, included in the recipes of more than 300 different medicines. It was also used by Arab and Tibetan healers as a stimulant for male health, and by Ayurvedic practitioners for the treatment of cardiac, mental, and neurological disorders.

Attraction of Wild Animals

The strong scent of musk has been used to attract wild animals. For example, in 2018, Indian authorities used the perfume Obsession by Calvin Klein to trap a wild tiger that had attacked and killed several people.

Confectionery

Musk sticks, artificially flavoured with a substance reminiscent of musk perfume, are a popular confectionery item in Australia.

Types of musk

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They can be categorised into three types: natural musk, synthetic musk, and plant-based musk.

Natural Musk

Natural musk is a glandular secretion from animals, most commonly the musk deer. It is a strong-smelling brownish substance secreted by the male musk deer of the genus Moschus. The musk gland lies in a sac positioned between the genitals and the navel, secreting powerful pheromones used to attract mates. The natural aroma of musk is complex and can be described as animalistic, earthy, and woody, or akin to the scent of a baby's skin.

Synthetic Musk

Synthetic musk, also known as white musk, is created in chemical laboratories and is used almost exclusively in modern perfumery. The first synthetic musk was discovered accidentally by scientist Albert Baur while experimenting with TNT explosives in 1888. Synthetic musks are typically derived from the molecule muscone, which is responsible for the characteristic musk odour.

Plant-Based Musk

Some plants emit fragrances similar to those of animal musk. These include the musk flower (Mimulus moschatus), muskwood (Olearia argophylla), and musk seeds (Abelmoschus moschatus). Plant-based musk is often used as a substitute for animal musk in perfumery.

Frequently asked questions