The Artisans Behind The Scent: Cologne Creators

The creation of cologne, or perfume, is an art. Those who create them are known as perfumers or 'noses' due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. Perfumers are artists with an in-depth understanding of fragrance aesthetics, capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods through their compositions. They are trained to distinguish a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, alone or in combination, and how they evolve over time. While some perfume houses have in-house perfumers, such as Chanel and Hermes, others outsource to fragrance manufacturers like IFF, Robertet, and Givaudan. These fragrance manufacturers may also have their own perfumery schools, but admission is often exclusive to employees. Additionally, a few universities offer courses in perfumery, such as the University of Plymouth in the UK, which provides a Bachelor of Arts in Business & Perfumery.

How to become a perfumer

Creating a fragrance is an art, and becoming a perfumer requires a blend of passion, creativity, and technical knowledge. Here is a guide on how to embark on this enchanting journey:

Education and Skills

A solid foundation in chemistry is essential, as perfumery involves working with various chemical and natural compounds. Aspiring perfumers should pursue a degree in chemistry, biology, or a related field. Specialized perfumery schools, such as ISIPCA in France, offer comprehensive courses that cover the art and science of fragrance creation, including raw materials, marketing, and branding. Gaining a deep understanding of the technical aspects of producing perfumes is crucial, including knowledge of fragrance intensity, chemical makeup, duration of use, and potential allergic responses.

Develop Your Sense of Smell

A keen sense of smell is a must for perfumers. Training your nose to identify and differentiate between various scents and ingredients is vital. Daily practice with essential oils, fragrance samples, and household items through blind sniff tests can help refine your olfactory skills. Attending perfume workshops, analysing iconic fragrances, and maintaining a scent journal to document your impressions are all excellent ways to enhance your sense of smell.

Creativity and Experimentation

Creativity is key in the world of perfumery. Experimenting with unique combinations and envisioning new scent profiles will lead to one-of-a-kind fragrances. Exploring other creative disciplines such as composition, cooking, mixology, or art can help foster your innovative side and inspire new approaches to fragrance creation.

Gain Work Experience

Breaking into the fragrance industry can be challenging, so gaining hands-on experience is crucial. Aspiring perfumers should seek internships, entry-level positions, or retail roles within fragrance houses or companies. These opportunities provide valuable insights into the daily challenges and processes of creating and marketing fragrances, allowing you to learn from seasoned professionals in various roles.

Network and Build Your Brand

Attend industry events, workshops, and conferences to connect with experts and stay updated on the latest trends. Building an online presence through websites or social media can also help showcase your work and connect with potential perfumery houses. Networking with established perfumers and scent designers may lead to mentorship opportunities or job offers.

Alternative Paths

If you dream of creating your own fragrances but are not interested in the traditional perfumer path, there are alternative options. You can launch your own product line without creating the fragrances yourself, as many brand owners do. Alternatively, you can explore the independent perfumer route, which offers more creative freedom but may be challenging due to regulations and the high cost of materials.

Becoming a perfumer is a fascinating and rewarding journey. It requires dedication, a strong foundation in chemistry, a refined sense of smell, and a creative spirit. With the right combination of education, experience, and networking, you can succeed in this competitive field and leave your scent in the world of fragrances.

Popular cologne brands

There are a few parent corporations that own the majority of fragrance brands. These beauty conglomerates have cornered the market on the top perfume brands. Coty, for example, is perhaps the largest manufacturer of fragrances, including popular brands like Burberry, Gucci, and Calvin Klein.

Some other popular cologne brands and their manufacturers include:

• Chanel Bleu de Chanel, manufactured by Chanel, one of the brands with an in-house master perfumer.
• Giorgio Armani Beauty Acqua di Gio, manufactured by Armani, another in-house manufacturer.
• Ralph Lauren Romance, manufactured by Ralph Lauren Fragrances, owned by France's L'Oreal Luxe Division.
• Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue, manufactured by Dolce & Gabbana, an Italian luxury brand with headquarters in New York.
• Shalimar by Guerlain, owned by LVMH, the parent company of several popular fragrance brands.
• CK One by Calvin Klein, manufactured by Calvin Klein, owned by PVH Corp.

These cologne brands are considered timeless classics, with some like Chanel No. 5 being considered the best perfume for women for over a century.

The process of making cologne

Sourcing Ingredients

The first step in creating a cologne is to source the right ingredients, which can include various natural and synthetic materials. Natural ingredients such as flowers, grasses, spices, fruits, woods, roots, resins, balsams, leaves, and animal secretions like musk and ambergris are used. These ingredients are carefully selected for their aromatic properties and ability to evoke specific moods and emotions. However, not all plants produce the necessary oils, so synthetic chemicals are often used to recreate or enhance certain scents.

Extracting Oils

The extraction of oils from natural ingredients is a critical step in the process. There are several methods for extracting oils, including steam distillation, boiling, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression. Each method varies in complexity and cost, with expression being the simplest and oldest technique, commonly used for citrus fruits. Enfleurage, on the other hand, is a costly and labour-intensive process where flowers are carefully spread on grease-coated glass sheets to absorb their fragrance.

Blending

Once the oils are extracted, the perfumer, or "nose," blends them according to a specific formula. This step requires a keen sense of smell and a deep understanding of fragrance aesthetics. The perfumer combines different oils in various proportions to create a unique and harmonious composition. It can take years to develop a single recipe, and a single cologne can contain up to 800 diverse ingredients.

Aging

After blending, the cologne mixture is aged for several months or even years. During this period, the cologne is stored undisturbed in a cool, dark area. Aging allows the alcohol and essential oils to permanently bond, enhancing the strength and longevity of the scent. It also enables the different notes of the cologne to blend and mature, creating a more complex and well-rounded fragrance.

Quality Control and Final Adjustments

Following the ageing process, an expert is brought in to test and evaluate the cologne. If the scent meets the desired criteria, it is ready for the final steps. However, adjustments such as additional blending or the addition of water and preservatives may be made if needed.

Bottling and Packaging

The final step is bottling the cologne into carefully prepared and sterilised containers, usually coloured glass bottles to protect the fragrance from light. The bottles are then labelled and decorated, ready to be sold and enjoyed by consumers.

History of cologne

The history of cologne is a fascinating one, with the fragrance playing a significant role in personal grooming and luxury over the centuries. The term 'cologne' itself is derived from the city of Cologne in Germany, where the first-ever cologne, 'Eau de Cologne', was created in the early 18th century by Italian perfumer Giovanni Maria Farina.

The Birth of Eau de Cologne

Farina's creation of Eau de Cologne marked the beginning of modern perfumery. He aimed to capture the scent of spring flowers after a rain shower, and his unique fragrance quickly gained popularity across Europe. Farina's cologne was a breakthrough because, unlike the thick and heavy perfumes of the time, it was a light, refreshing scent with a lower concentration of fragrance oils. This made it ideal for splashing on the skin, giving rise to the name 'Eau de Cologne', which translates to 'water of Cologne'.

The Rise of Fragrance Houses

The success of Eau de Cologne inspired the establishment of fragrance houses dedicated to creating and selling perfumes and colognes. One of the earliest and most renowned fragrance houses, Guerlain, was founded in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The house of Guerlain created iconic fragrances such as Shalimar, which became a best-selling women's fragrance with its subtle notes of vanilla and sandalwood.

Designer Fragrances

As the fragrance industry evolved, fashion designers and luxury brands ventured into the world of perfumes and colognes. Chanel, for instance, is known for its iconic fragrances, including Chanel No. 5, which has been a celebrity favourite since its creation in 1921. Chanel is one of the brands with an in-house master perfumer, ensuring creative control over their fragrance compositions.

The Modern Fragrance Industry

Today, the fragrance industry is dominated by a few conglomerates that own many of the world's top perfume and cologne brands. Companies like Coty, LVMH, and L'Oréal have extensive portfolios that include brands such as Gucci, Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren. These companies continue to shape the industry, with Coty, for example, introducing genderless perfumes to appeal to Gen Z buyers.

The art of creating fragrances has also evolved, with perfumers now considered artists who convey abstract concepts and moods through complex olfactory compositions. These experts undergo rigorous training to develop their fine sense of smell and the ability to distinguish various fragrance ingredients.

Notes in cologne

Top notes, also known as head notes, are the first scents that you notice when you apply a cologne. They are usually fresh and light, and they give you an initial impression of the fragrance. Citrus scents like lemon, orange, or bergamot are commonly used as top notes, as are some spicy notes such as black pepper or cardamom. Top notes evaporate quickly, so they are not very long-lasting, but they are important for setting the tone for the fragrance.

Middle notes, or heart notes, emerge once the top notes dissipate, usually after a few minutes. These notes form the heart of the fragrance and give it its character. Middle notes are often floral or fruity, with popular options including lavender, jasmine, rose, and geranium. They are more subtle than the top notes but last longer, providing a bridge between the initial impression and the deeper, more intense base notes.

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and give it depth and longevity. They are usually rich, deep scents that are slow to develop but can last for several hours. Examples include sandalwood, vanilla, musk, and amber. Base notes work in harmony with the middle notes to create a well-rounded and long-lasting fragrance. They are often the most expensive ingredients in a cologne, and they leave a lasting impression on the wearer and those around them.

Creating a cologne is a complex art, and perfumers carefully blend these notes to craft a unique and appealing fragrance. The process involves trial and error, a refined sense of smell, and an understanding of how different notes interact with each other. The result is a harmonious blend of scents that can evoke emotions and leave a lasting impression.

Frequently asked questions