Lance Carson
The history of fragrance is a long and fascinating one, with ancient origins in multiple civilisations. The first traces of fragrance use date back to Mesopotamia, where the Sumerians and the perfumer Tapputi, the world's first recorded chemist, developed techniques for creating perfumes. Ancient Egypt also played a key role in the use of perfume for religious and social reasons, with popular fragrances derived from aromatic woods, resins, and local flowers like the lotus. The ancient Greeks and Romans further refined the use of perfume, with Theophrastus documenting the perfume-making process of his time, and the discovery that fragrances linger longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists. The Persians and Arabs also contributed significantly to the art of perfumery, with Islamic cultures embracing and innovating upon the use of perfume, introducing new notes and methods of extraction that would later be incorporated into Western perfumery.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| First recorded perfumer or chemist | Tapputi, a woman from Mesopotamia |
| First recorded use of perfume | 4000 years ago in Mesopotamia |
| First recorded use of the word 'perfume' | Derived from the Latin phrase 'per fumus' |
| First process of extracting oils from flowers by distillation | Ibn Sina, also known as Avicenna |
| Use of perfume on the body | Ancient Greeks discovered that fragrances linger longer on the inner wrists |
| Use of perfume in ancient times | Religious rituals, funeral ceremonies, social status, seduction, spirituality |
| Use of perfume in the Middle Ages | Health benefits, protection against the Bubonic Plague |
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What You'll Learn
- The world's first recorded perfumer was a woman named Tapputi
- Ancient Greeks discovered that fragrances linger longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists
- The Romans, Persians and Arabs refined perfume
- The Renaissance brought innovation and an abundance of scholars, artists, architects and engineers
- The French later invented the term 'parfum' to describe the burning of incense to produce a fragrance
The world's first recorded perfumer was a woman named Tapputi
Tapputi is considered the first registered chemist in the world, mentioned on a cuneiform tablet from around 1200 BCE in Mesopotamia. She used flowers, oil, calamus, cyperus, myrrh, balsam, and other plants and substances in her mixtures. She would mix these with water or other solvents, distilling and filtering the perfumes multiple times. She also developed methods for scent extraction, laying the basis for perfume-making.
There are only two tablets in the world where the name Tapputi is mentioned. One is in the Louvre Museum in Paris, and the other is in the Girl Museum in Germany. The tablet in the Louvre states that Tapputi was a royal perfumer, and the other tablet, though half-broken, reveals that she had a female assistant and provides further details on her distillation process.
Tapputi's work is significant as it is the oldest named perfumer in the historical record thus far. Furthermore, it is one of the first texts to describe a chemical process, providing valuable insights into early forms of distillation and the art of perfume-making.
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Ancient Greeks discovered that fragrances linger longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists
The ancient Greeks played a crucial role in the development of perfumery. They were the first to discover that fragrances linger longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists. This discovery was documented by Theophrastus, a philosopher and botanist who lived in the 4th century BCE. Theophrastus described the perfume-making process of his time in his treatise "On Odours".
In ancient Greece, perfume was central to the worshipping and pleasing of the gods and goddesses. The Greeks believed that anything as wondrous must have come from the gods, and vast quantities of perfume were used in religious ceremonies. Perfume was also used in everyday life, with both men and women wearing fragrances. The ancient Greeks believed that some fragrances were more suited to a specific gender, with the lightest perfumes being worn by men and the stronger, longer-lasting perfumes being worn by women.
The basic ingredients and methods of making perfumes were described by Pliny the Elder in his "Naturalis Historia". The ancient Greeks used various types of oils as the "vehicle" of perfumes, including Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil and olive oil. These oils were chosen for their odourless quality, as pungent oils would overpower the natural fragrance of the other raw materials used in the perfume. The perfume mixture would usually be boiled, with the ingredients dissolving under gentle fire.
The ancient Greeks also ground aromatic plants and resins and suspended them in oil, creating the first perfumes for wearing on the skin. They had developed distillation techniques to create essences for their favourite scents, such as laurel, marjoram, iris, and cardamom. Perfume manufacturing combined a ground aromatic essence that was soaked in water or wine along with an excipient, usually a plant-based oil. Animal-based scent ingredients, such as musk and ambergris, were also used for the first time, adding a new dimension to fragrance creation.
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The Romans, Persians and Arabs refined perfume
The Romans, Persians, and Arabs all played a significant role in refining perfume and developing the art of perfumery.
The Romans, influenced by the ancient Greeks, used scented ointments made from flower petals, spices, and other natural ingredients, mainly from the East and ancient Greece. These ointments were used for various purposes, including curing diseases, warding off epidemics, and conducting religious ceremonies. The most expensive perfume in ancient Rome was likely "Regale Unguentum," which is referenced in an anecdote about Emperor Tiberius and the high expenses incurred by Rome for aromatic and exotic substances. The social class of Romans influenced the type of oil used in their ointments, with variations in refinement and purity depending on social status.
The Persians, with their trading connections, had access to a wide array of spices, resins, herbs, precious woods, and animal fragrance materials such as ambergris and musk. They cultivated flowers and herbs used in perfumery, including roses, jasmine, bitter orange, and other citrus trees. The Persian chemist Ibn Sina, also known as Avicenna, introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers through distillation, which is still the most common method used today. His discovery of rose water, a more delicate fragrance, immediately gained popularity and influenced Western perfumery and scientific developments.
The Arabs also played a significant role in the history of perfume. Arabian perfume reached Europe through trade and the crusades, and cities like Al-Andalus became major producers and trading centres for perfumes in the Old World. The Arabic philosopher al-Kindi wrote a comprehensive book on perfumes, including recipes and methods for perfume-making, which contributed to the development of perfumery and influenced equipment still used today, such as the alembic.
The art of perfumery experienced a revival in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian refinements were taken to France, where it became the European centre of perfume and cosmetic manufacture. The cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which began in the 14th century, flourished in the south of France, particularly in Grasse, now considered the world capital of perfume.
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The Renaissance brought innovation and an abundance of scholars, artists, architects and engineers
The Renaissance, meaning "rebirth" in French, refers to a period in European history that marked a revival of Classical learning and wisdom. It brought about a surge of interest in Classical scholarship and values, and was a time of great social change and innovation across many fields, including art, architecture, politics, literature, exploration, and science. The Renaissance is generally believed to have begun in Italy during the 14th century, reaching its height in the period between the 1490s and the 1520s, known as the High Renaissance.
The Renaissance saw the emergence of the "Renaissance man," exemplified by figures like Leonardo da Vinci, who made significant contributions to multiple fields, including art, science, music, architecture, and invention. This period also witnessed the discovery and exploration of new continents, the development of new scientific laws, and the growth of commerce.
The intellectual basis of the Renaissance was humanism, which emerged in Italy and was initiated by secular men of letters. Humanism reflected a shift in the way intellectuals approached religion, with a renewed engagement with Greek Christian works, such as the Greek New Testament, brought back from Byzantium to Western Europe. This engagement with Classical texts and ideas influenced the development of various disciplines during the Renaissance.
In the field of art, Renaissance artists broke away from the purely religious art of the Middle Ages and began to explore secular themes. They embraced new techniques, such as oil painting and the use of canvas, to create innovative and influential works. Artists like Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael mastered these techniques to convey a new aesthetic ideal that valued beauty and psychological depth in their depictions of the human figure.
The Renaissance also saw advancements in architecture, with figures like Filippo Brunelleschi studying ancient classical buildings and formulating a Renaissance style that emulated and improved upon classical forms. Brunelleschi's major feat of engineering was the construction of the dome of Florence Cathedral, which demonstrated his mastery of classical proportions and mathematical principles.
The Renaissance brought about a flourishing of scholarship, artistic expression, and innovation across Europe, with Italy as its epicenter. This period witnessed groundbreaking developments in multiple fields, shaping the course of European history and laying the foundation for modern thought and creativity.
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The French later invented the term 'parfum' to describe the burning of incense to produce a fragrance
The history of perfume dates back to ancient civilisations, with the first recorded use of the word 'perfume' attributed to the Mesopotamians, who discovered incense around 4000 years ago. The word 'perfume' is derived from the Latin phrase 'per fumus', which translates to 'through smoke'.
The French invented the term 'parfum' to describe the burning of incense to produce a fragrance. In English, 'parfum' is also known as 'perfume extract', 'pure perfume', or simply 'perfume'. It is the most concentrated form of fragrance, typically containing 15-40% aromatic compounds, including ethanol or a mix of water and ethanol as the solvent. The higher the percentage of aromatic compounds, the stronger and longer-lasting the scent.
The ancient Greeks were the first to create liquid perfumes, using various types of oils as the base, such as Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil, and olive oil derived from "raw" and "coarse" olives. They also discovered that fragrances linger longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists due to the increase in body heat at pulse points.
The development of distillation by the Arabs revolutionized perfume manufacturing, and the art of perfumery was further refined by the Romans, Persians, and Arabs. The world's first recorded chemist is a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia around 1200 BCE. She developed methods for scent extraction that laid the foundation for modern perfume-making techniques.
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Frequently asked questions
The first recorded perfumer or chemist is a woman named Tapputi, who lived in Mesopotamia around 1200 BCE. She developed methods for scent extraction that laid the foundation for future perfume-making.
Ancient perfumes were based on aromatic oils and resins, herbs, and flowers. They included ingredients such as myrrh, frankincense, cedar, and local flowers like the lotus.
The ancient Greeks discovered that fragrances last longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists. They also used various types of oils as the "vehicle" of perfumes.
