The Science Of Smell: Cologne's Enticing Aroma

The scent of cologne is determined by its fragrance family, which is created by combining different notes. The four primary fragrance families are fresh, floral, woody, and amber, with secondary families including citrus, aromatic, and spicy. Within these fragrance families, individual scents are created by mixing perfume oil with alcohol, with the former being the ingredient that determines how strong a cologne is. The top, middle, and base notes of a cologne also play a role in how it smells. Top notes are the first impression of a cologne, heart notes are the main body, and base notes are what is left at the end and remembered the most.

Fragrance notes

Top notes are typically light botanicals, while heart notes are what you smell next, and base notes are the longest-lasting. For example, in a floral perfume, the flowery smells are the heart notes. Base notes are usually musky, watery, mossy, or woody.

Colognes can be categorised into fragrance families like fresh, woody, amber, and floral. Fresh scents are bright, zesty, and sometimes citrusy, while floral scents are softer with sweeter undertones. Woody colognes have warm, earthy, or dry qualities, and amber scents tend to be warm with spicy or musky undertones.

Within these fragrance families, there are specific notes that create unique and memorable colognes. For example, wood notes include scents like sandalwood, cedar, and pine. Leather, smoke, and tobacco add a robust and mysterious touch. Citrus and herbal notes create a laid-back, beachy vibe, while oud, a Middle Eastern resin, provides an intense, earthy aroma.

How to apply cologne

Applying cologne is an art form. When done properly, cologne can make you feel more attractive and confident. However, if not done properly, it can lead to over-application or a scent that fades quickly. Here is a guide on how to apply cologne:

Apply to Clean Skin

The best time to apply cologne is immediately after showering. Showering cleanses your body of any other scents and opens your pores, which helps the scent absorb. Completely dry your skin, and then apply cologne directly onto the skin. Avoid applying cologne onto clothes, as this prevents it from mixing with your natural oils and can harm certain fabrics.

Hold the Bottle 3-6 Inches Away

Hold the spray bottle 3-6 inches away from your body. Holding the bottle any closer than 3 inches risks over-application, and spraying further than 6 inches away will likely result in under-application.

Apply to Pulse Points

Apply cologne to the pulse points on your wrists and neck, as well as other heated areas of your body, such as the chest, forearms, or inner elbows. The heat helps diffuse the scent throughout the day and allows it to meld with your body chemistry to create your signature scent.

Start with a Light Application

Choose one area, such as the neck or forearms, and start with one spray. If you notice that the scent fades quickly, choose another area and spray there the next time you apply. You can also re-apply by dabbing a little onto your pulse points if needed.

Get a Second Opinion

It can be difficult to judge how you smell yourself. Ask a friend or family member if your application is appropriate, as you can become nose-blind to scents you wear often.

Storage

Cologne does not have an infinite shelf life. To make it last longer, store it in its original box, as light exposure can cause fragrances to deteriorate. You can also keep it in a dark drawer or cabinet, avoiding direct sunlight and fluctuations in temperature.

Cologne types

Colognes can be categorised in several ways, including by their scent, strength, and longevity.

Scent Families

The four primary fragrance families are fresh, floral, woody, and amber. While some colognes will fall under multiple categories, few, if any, will escape these four groupings entirely.

• Fresh scents are bright, zesty, and sometimes citrusy. Citrus-based fragrances are usually created with lemon, mandarin, and bergamot, while water fragrances are made with aquatic notes like sea spray.
• Floral fragrances are one of the most popular families and are also one of the broadest. Any fragrance that has a sweet and flowery scent falls under this family, using notes such as roses, jasmine, lilies, and peonies.
• Woody colognes have warm, earthy, or dry qualities. They often include scents like sandalwood, cedar, and pine.
• Amber scents also tend to be warm, but with spicy or musky undertones.

Other less common fragrance families include:

• Fougère: This is often considered a note within the woody family, but it can also be classified as a family in its own right. Fougère scents are citrusy, herbal, and clean, conjuring up images of laid-back beach vacations.
• Oriental: Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and spicy. This family includes floral oriental, soft oriental, and woody oriental scents. Perfumes and colognes in this family are rich and sensual, often made with interesting notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla, alongside the likes of jasmine, orchid, and orange blossom.

Strength and Longevity

The strength and longevity of a cologne depend on the percentage of perfumed oils used in the product. The higher the concentration of perfume oil, the stronger the fragrance and the longer it will last.

• Eau Fraiche: 1-3% perfume oil concentration. These fragrances will only last for an hour or two.
• Eau de Cologne (EDC): 3-5% perfume oil concentration. Eau de Colognes don't last long, perhaps only around 2-3 hours.
• Eau de Toilette (EDT): 5-15% perfume oil concentration. These fragrances often have a quick burst of beautiful smells before fading, but can still last between 4 and 7 hours.
• Eau de Parfum (EDP): 10-20% perfume oil concentration. Eau de Parfums will generally last around 8 hours.
• Parfum/Extrait de Parfum: 15-40% perfume oil concentration. These fragrances are described as "eternal", with a strong scent that lingers for a long time.

Top, Heart, and Base Notes

In addition to the above categories, colognes can also be categorised by their notes, which refer to the individual scent ingredients or aromas that make up a fragrance.

• Top notes are the first scents you smell after spraying your cologne. They evaporate quickly but form the first impression. Designers often put unusual, unpleasant, or spicy smells in this phase to create interest without offending the wearer.
• Heart notes or middle notes appear after the top notes have disappeared, usually around 3 to 4 hours later. These notes are considered the main body of the fragrance and are usually well-rounded.
• Base notes are what you remember the most as they are the longest-lasting. They mix with the middle notes to create the full body of the cologne.

Choosing a Cologne

When choosing a cologne, it's important to consider the context and your personal preferences. Woody, aromatic, or citrus colognes tend to be good choices for daily "signature scents". These fragrances are less polarising and can be worn across most occasions.

It's also helpful to understand the vibe of the cologne. The same notes can manifest differently depending on how they're employed. If you're looking for an everyday scent, avoid anything that reads as overly powerful or expressive.

You can also ask others about the colognes they wear and use the web to discover new scents or search for similar fragrances to ones you already know. Finally, take advantage of samples or discovery sites to try before you buy.

How to find your signature scent

Finding your signature scent is a personal journey that requires some time and experimentation. It's important to understand the different fragrance families and their characteristics to help guide your search. Here are some tips to help you find your signature scent:

Understand Fragrance Families

Fragrance families are groups of scents with similar notes and complementary differences. The four primary fragrance families are floral, oriental (or amber), woody, and fresh.

• Floral fragrances are commonly found in women's perfumes, but they can also be used in men's fragrances. They evoke the aroma of freshly cut flowers, sometimes with hints of fruits and spices.
• Oriental fragrances are characterised by their luxurious, intense, rich, and full-bodied scent. They are crafted with spices, resins, and herbs, resulting in an exotic and seductive aroma.
• Woody fragrances offer a comforting warmth, often blended with fresh elements like floral or citrus to balance any bitterness.
• Fresh fragrances include aromatic, citrus, water, and green notes. They offer a wide range of possibilities and can be combined with various other notes for diverse subfamilies.

Explore Subfamilies and Notes

Within each fragrance family, there are subfamilies that blend the dominant scent with other complementary fragrances. For example, the floral fragrance family may include subfamilies with sweet or tropical fruit scents, bouquet flower scents, or soft floral notes with a powdery or creamy scent.

Understanding the different notes within a fragrance is crucial. Top notes are the first scents you smell, often light botanicals, while heart notes emerge next, and base notes linger the longest. The combination of these notes creates the unique character of a fragrance.

Connect Scents with Memories and Personality

Your signature scent should be something that reflects your personality and connects with your memories. It could be a scent that reminds you of a cherished memory, a person, a time in your life, or an experience. For example, if you want to feel comforted, you might choose a fragrance with notes that remind you of your mother's baking, like tonka bean or vanilla.

Sample and Test Fragrances

Take your time to sample and test different fragrances. Try to attach certain notes to different moods, occasions, or seasons. Fragrance wheels, like Michael Edwards' Fragrance Wheel, can be a helpful tool to understand how notes work with your moods and the seasonality of scents.

Don't be afraid to ask others about the scents they're wearing if you find them enjoyable. You can also seek advice from salespeople and ask for your close friends' opinions.

Know the Classics and Weigh Mass Appeal Against Niche

Familiarise yourself with classic scents to understand the framework of fragrances. When choosing your signature scent, consider whether you want something mass-market that is likely to be safe and widely appealing or if you prefer a more niche fragrance that is unique to you.

Try Before You Buy

Lastly, remember to sample a fragrance before committing to it. Most brands offer sample-size testers or assortments to help you make an informed decision.

Finding your signature scent is a journey of discovery and self-expression. Enjoy the process of exploring different fragrances and the emotions and memories they evoke.

How cologne smells on skin

The scent of cologne on skin is a highly individual experience, and the same cologne can smell different on two different people. This is due to each person's unique skin chemistry. The pH level of the skin, which refers to the acidity or alkalinity of a substance, can impact the way a cologne smells. The natural pH level of the skin is usually slightly acidic, and this can vary among individuals depending on nutrition and lifestyle.

When cologne is applied to the skin, the fragrance compounds interact with the natural oils and chemicals present on the skin's surface, within the sebum or "hydrolipidic film". The condition of the skin, such as its hydration level, can also influence how a cologne smells on an individual. Moisturized skin tends to have a smoother, more supple texture, allowing fragrance molecules to interact differently with the skin's surface and impacting the scent. Dry or dehydrated skin, on the other hand, has a weaker ability to retain fragrance molecules, resulting in a shorter-lasting scent experience.

Additionally, physical activity can affect the scent of cologne. Increased body heat during exercise causes fragrances to evaporate more quickly, intensifying the projection and diffusion of the cologne. Perspiration generated during exercise can also interact with fragrance molecules, potentially altering the scent over time. The natural body odors and pheromones released during physical activity create a unique combination with the cologne, resulting in a more personalized fragrance experience.

Diet can also play a role in how cologne smells on the skin. Strongly flavored foods containing volatile compounds, such as garlic or spices, can mix with the cologne's fragrance, creating a unique scent combination. Body chemistry, influenced by diet, can also subtly alter body odor, which may further interact with the cologne and modify its overall character.

Furthermore, the temperature and oiliness of the skin can impact the evaporation rate of the cologne's top notes. Warmer and drier skin will cause the top notes to evaporate faster, while cooler and oilier skin will retain the top notes for longer.

It is worth noting that colognes are categorized by their strength: eau de cologne, eau de toilette, and eau de parfum, from lightest to strongest. Additionally, cologne scents can be grouped into fragrance families, such as fresh, floral, woody, and amber. These families help narrow down the vast array of colognes and find the one that suits an individual's preference.

Frequently asked questions