Katrina Rosales
Opium is a women's perfume by Yves Saint Laurent, created by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. Introduced in 1977, Opium is an Oriental-spicy fragrance with top notes of mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, and pepper, floral middle notes of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root, and a woody base of sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, and castoreum. The male complement, Opium pour Homme, was launched in 1995, featuring vanilla, black currant, galangal, star anise, ginger, and pepper, with base notes of cedar and tolu balsam. Opium's advertising campaigns have been controversial, with some finding them sexually suggestive and degrading to women, while others criticized the perfume's name as insensitive. YSL's Black Opium, a popular variation, features notes of coffee, vanilla, and white flowers, offering a seductive and intoxicating scent.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Top notes | Mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, bay leaf |
| Middle notes | Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, orris root |
| Base notes | Sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, vetiver |
| Fragrance type | Oriental-spicy |
| Year of release | 1977 |
| Perfumers | Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac |
| Brand | Yves Saint Laurent |
| Target gender | Female |
| Black Opium top notes | Coffee, white flowers |
| Black Opium base notes | Vanilla |
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What You'll Learn
Opium's top notes: mandarin, clove, spices
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent is an Oriental-spicy perfume for women with top notes that are a mixture of fruits and spices. The top notes of a perfume are the scents that are perceived immediately after the application of the perfume. The top notes of Opium include mandarin orange, clove, and spices.
Mandarin orange, or mandarin, is a citrus fruit that belongs to the orange family. It is known for its sweet and refreshing scent, which can uplift the mood and provide a sense of freshness and energy. Mandarin oil is often used in perfumery and aromatherapy due to its invigorating and rejuvenating properties.
Clove is a spice that is native to the Maluku Islands in Indonesia and is commonly used in perfumery for its strong, spicy, and sweet scent. The scent of clove is known to be warm, pungent, and slightly fruity, with a hint of bitterness. Clove essential oil is often used in perfumery and aromatherapy for its antiseptic and analgesic properties, as well as its ability to enhance blood circulation.
The spices in Opium's top notes also include coriander, pepper, and bay leaf. Coriander has a fresh, spicy, and slightly citrusy scent, while pepper has a sharp, pungent, and spicy aroma. Bay leaf, on the other hand, provides a warm, spicy, and slightly woody fragrance. These spices add depth and complexity to the top notes of Opium, creating an intriguing and captivating opening to the perfume.
The combination of mandarin, clove, and other spices in the top notes of Opium creates a unique and memorable olfactory experience. These scents blend harmoniously to evoke a sense of warmth, mystery, and sophistication. The top notes set the tone for the rest of the perfume, seamlessly transitioning into the floral middle notes and the sweet woody base notes.
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Its floral middle notes: jasmine, rose, carnation
Opium is an oriental-spicy perfume for women, created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent. Its floral middle notes consist predominantly of jasmine, rose, and carnation, in addition to cinnamon, peach, and orris root.
Jasmine is a genus of evergreen shrubs from the olive family, comprising about 200 species. The most important species of jasmine in perfumery is white jasmine, also called common jasmine. It can be found in the Himalayas and is the national flower of Pakistan. It is widely cultivated in France, China, India, Egypt, and other countries to obtain extracts for perfumery. Eight million hand-picked jasmine flowers (about 1000 kg) are required to make 1 kilogram of jasmine absolute. The key components of jasmine absolute were discovered over 100 years ago. From the absolute, scientists have extracted benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, linalool, cis-jasmone, and indole.
Rose has been known in the Middle East for ages. In the 7th century, the Arabs knew the principle of distillation and were able to obtain rose oil and rosewater from flowers. Today, the most important type of rose for perfumery is the Damascus Rose (Rosa Damascena), grown in Bulgaria. Rose oxide, an important compound in rose's flavour profile, has been found in many other natural sources, including geranium oil, Gewürztraminer wine, tea, blackcurrant, lychee, and passion fruit.
Carnation is another popular floral middle note in Opium perfume. Some popular carnation-based perfumes include Tuscany per Donna by Aramis, Possets Pre-Raphaelite Seductress, and Lady Disdain.
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The sweet woody base: sandalwood, myrrh, opoponax
The base notes of a perfume are the final fragrances to emerge once the scent has dried down on the skin. They are the foundation of the perfume and linger on the skin the longest. The base notes of Opium perfume are woody and sweet, with the following ingredients:
Sandalwood
Sandalwood is a classic base note in perfumery, lending a warm, woody, and slightly sweet aroma to the fragrance. It is derived from the heavy, yellow, and fine-grained heartwood of various sandalwood trees, particularly Santalum album, a species native to India. Sandalwood is believed to have therapeutic properties in Ayurveda and has been used in religious ceremonies and traditional medicine for centuries.
Myrrh
Myrrh is a resin produced by the Commiphora tree, which is native to northeastern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. With a warm, balsamic, and slightly spicy aroma, myrrh adds depth and complexity to the base of Opium. It has a long history of use in perfumery and was even used in ancient Egypt for embalming and religious ceremonies.
Opoponax
Also known as sweet myrrh or perfumer's myrrh, opoponax is a resin obtained from various Commiphora trees, particularly Commiphora guidottii, which is native to Somalia and Ethiopia. With a sweet, warm, and slightly spicy fragrance, opoponax adds a unique velvety sensation to Opium. It is said to enhance the longevity of the perfume and deepen its overall aroma.
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$14.9 $19.99
Black Opium: coffee, vanilla, white flowers
Black Opium, an Oriental Vanilla fragrance for women, was launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 2014. The perfume was created by master perfumers Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp, and Honorine Blanc.
The top notes of Black Opium are pear, pink pepper, and orange blossom. The middle notes are coffee, jasmine, bitter almond, and licorice. The base notes are vanilla, patchouli, cashmere wood, and cedar. The scent is dominated by notes of coffee, present in large quantities.
The perfume is described as a "seductively intoxicating" fragrance with opening notes of adrenaline-rich coffee and sweet vanilla that soften into white flowers. It is inspired by the edgy and daring woman, with the strong scent of coffee and the sweetness of vanilla at its heart.
Some reviewers describe the scent as “super strong, sweet, floral, woodsy, and feminine,” with one noting that it is an “intensively sweet” fragrance with prominent coffee notes. Another reviewer mentions that the perfume dries down to a sugary, smokey coffee with strong undertones of white florals.
Black Opium Over Red, a variation of the original fragrance, was introduced in 2024. It features additional notes of cherry and tea, with the sweetness of vanilla and the bitterness of coffee in the background.
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Opium pour Homme: vanilla, black currant, cedar
Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent is a men's cologne launched in 1995. The fragrance is described as oriental, spicy, and sweet, with a traditional masculine '90s barbershop feel. The main note of Opium pour Homme is vanilla, with additional notes of black currant, galangal, star anise, ginger, pepper, cedar, and tolu balsam.
The top notes of the fragrance are fruity and spicy, with black currant, star anise, and a hint of mint creating a hazy, fruity, and medicinal vibe. The middle notes of Sichuan pepper and galanga add a spicy kick, while the base notes of vanilla, tolu balsam, and cedar provide a sweet and woody finish. The vanilla in Opium pour Homme is described as alcoholic and syrupy, with a powdery texture. The black currant note is prominent and adds a sweet and fruity touch to the fragrance.
The combination of vanilla and black currant creates a unique and well-executed thematic character that sets Opium pour Homme apart from other oriental fragrances. The fragrance has a strong personality and is perfect for making a statement during gloomy winter days or reflective, introverted moods. The spicy and oriental scent of Opium pour Homme is both daring and puzzling, with a vintage feel.
The performance of Opium pour Homme is impressive, with long-lasting power and strong sillage. The fragrance is not for everyone, as it is intense, rich, and loud, requiring a certain attitude to pull it off. The modern version of Opium pour Homme may differ slightly from older versions, with some reviewers noting that the black currant note can be overwhelming in newer batches. However, the overall character of the fragrance remains timeless and distinctive.
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Frequently asked questions
Opium perfume is a blend of fruits, spices, and woods. The top notes are mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, and pepper, with floral middle notes of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root. The base notes are sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, and castoreum, with amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, and vetiver.
There are two main types of Opium perfume: the original Opium, and Black Opium. The original Opium was launched in 1977 and has a spicy, fiery carnation scent. Black Opium, on the other hand, is a more modern interpretation with notes of coffee, vanilla, and white flowers.
Opium perfume was created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. It was launched in 1977 to coincide with Yves Saint Laurent's Autumn-Winter collection, which was inspired by China.
Opium perfume caused a stir due to its controversial name, with some accusing Yves Saint Laurent of condoning drug use and being insensitive to Chinese history and culture. The advertising campaigns for Opium also sparked controversy, with posters featuring nude or semi-nude models that were deemed too sexually suggestive and degrading to women.
The key notes of Black Opium perfume are coffee, vanilla, and white flowers. It is described as a seductive and intoxicating fragrance, capturing the spirit of a daring and edgy woman.
