The Intriguing World Of Fragrance: A Beginner's Guide

Fragrance is a term used to describe any number of aromatic chemical combinations designed to make products smell better. Fragrances are added to products to create a sense of luxury, personality, or to make them seem more 'natural'. They are also used to cover up offending odours. Fragrances are made up of strong-smelling organic compounds that have characteristic, pleasant odours. They are usually a combination of natural and synthetic ingredients, with the latter sometimes being used as safer, more sustainable alternatives to their natural counterparts. There are over 3,500 fragrance chemicals in use today, according to the International Fragrance Association, and they are often listed on product labels under the umbrella terms fragrance, perfume, parfum, or aroma.

Fragrance in products

Fragrance is added to products to make them smell better, to add a sense of luxury or personality, or to create a more "natural" aroma. They are found in the majority of cosmetics, toiletries, household, laundry, air fresheners, candles, and incense products. Manufacturers use fragrance in many products as a perfume, and sometimes a fragrance ingredient can be a flavor ingredient because flavors and fragrances use similar chemical messengers in our bodies.

The word "fragrance" or "parfum" on a product label represents an undisclosed mixture of various scent chemicals and ingredients used as fragrance dispersants such as diethyl phthalate. Fragrance mixes have been associated with allergies, dermatitis, respiratory distress, and potential effects on the reproductive system. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), fragrance is the number one cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis, and its prevalence is on the rise.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates fragrance ingredients as cosmetics if they are in a cosmetic product and function to provide scent. However, the FDA does not approve or test cosmetic products, including fragrances, before they are available for sale. Manufacturers are legally responsible for ensuring product safety when we use the products as intended. If there is a safety issue, the FDA can and will test products and issue recalls when necessary.

Other fragrance ingredients may be treated as drugs by the FDA if the manufacturer intends for the ingredients to treat a condition. For example, "easing muscle aches" would cause the FDA to treat a fragrance-containing product as an over-the-counter drug, meaning it's governed by the same FDA rules and regulations applicable to any over-the-counter pharmaceutical medications.

Scents containing products that are not applied directly to the body, such as laundry detergents, fabric softeners, and room fresheners, are regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). The CPSC is responsible for creating voluntary standards, issuing and enforcing mandatory standards, and recalling and potentially banning products that can cause harm. Like the FDA, the CPSC does not require premarket approval for products, but manufacturers are legally responsible for ensuring product safety.

There are thousands of fragrance ingredients, ranging from natural sources like fruits and flowers to synthetic ingredients like artificial musk. Synthetic fragrance ingredients can be nature-identical or artificial. Nature-identical synthetic fragrances are made from synthetically derived ingredients to have the same chemical composition as a fragrance found in nature. Artificial fragrances are made from synthetic ingredients and have a scent and/or chemical composition not known to be found in nature.

While synthetic fragrance ingredients may sound like something out of a science fiction novel, human-made scents have been a part of the fragrance industry since the late 1800s. Often, synthetic fragrance ingredients are used as safer, more sustainable alternatives to their natural counterparts.

The creation of fragrance

Creating a fragrance is a complex and multi-layered process that combines art and science. It requires the right materials, people, ideas, and partners. The process of creating a fragrance can be broken down into several steps, from finding inspiration to bottling the final product.

Finding Inspiration

The first step in creating a fragrance is finding inspiration. This can come from anywhere, such as a person, place, mood, fragrance ingredient, or another art form like music, literature, or visual art. The perfumer's personal experience or a client's request can also inspire the scent.

Selecting Ingredients

Once the inspiration is established, the perfumer chooses the notes and ingredients that will create the scent's main theme and structure. These ingredients can be natural, like flowers, grasses, spices, fruits or synthetic, like alcohol and petrochemicals. Perfumers may use existing formulas or create new combinations to achieve the desired fragrance.

Testing and Adjusting

The chosen ingredients are then combined and tested. The perfumer evaluates the scent on paper blotter strips or skin and makes adjustments until the desired fragrance is achieved. This process can take months or even years, as the perfumer refines the formula through trial and error.

Manufacturing the Concentrate

Once the formula is finalised, the perfumer manufactures the concentrate, which involves weighing and blending the ingredients. Solid ingredients are dissolved in liquid ones, and the mixture is adjusted until a homogeneous concentrate is obtained. This concentrate is then diluted in ethanol for testing.

Maturation and Dilution

The concentrate is stored in large vats for several weeks to allow the chemical interactions between the ingredients to occur. This process, known as maturation, helps the different notes blend harmoniously. After maturation, the concentrate is diluted with alcohol to transform it into a perfume. The proportion of alcohol added varies depending on the desired final product, such as eau de cologne or eau de parfum.

Bottling and Release

The final step is bottling the fragrance and releasing it to the market. This stage is carefully controlled to ensure the quality of the fragrance. The perfume is then added to websites and sold commercially, completing the journey from inspiration to the final product.

Natural vs synthetic fragrances

Fragrances are a mix of aromatic chemical concoctions that give personal care, cleaning, and other products their unique smell. Natural fragrances are scents created from nature, including trees, plants, and animals. Essential oils like lavender oil are a common example of natural fragrances. On the other hand, synthetic fragrances are developed in laboratories and aim to replicate natural accords without harming the environment.

Natural fragrances are often perceived as "green" and healthier, but they have limitations. Firstly, natural materials contain multiple chemicals, many of which are classified as allergens or can cause harm in other ways. Secondly, sustainability is a concern, as increasing demand for natural fragrances can lead to deforestation and negatively impact the environment. Additionally, natural materials are susceptible to changes in climate and human interaction, making supply and cost prices unstable. Recreating consistent fragrances from natural sources is also challenging.

Synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, offer benefits such as consistent quality, longer shelf life, and a richer, more intense scent compared to essential oils. They are easily mass-produced and more readily available, making them a cost-effective option. Synthetic fragrances also allow perfumers to create a wider range of unique compositions.

The term "fragrance" or "parfum" on a product label often represents an undisclosed mixture of various scent chemicals and ingredients. Manufacturers are not required to list individual fragrance ingredients, as they are considered trade secrets. However, some fragrance ingredients have been associated with health issues, including allergies, dermatitis, respiratory distress, and potential effects on the reproductive system.

Ultimately, the choice between natural and synthetic fragrances depends on personal preferences and specific fragrance needs. While synthetic fragrances offer benefits in terms of consistency, availability, and variety, natural fragrances provide a more "natural" aroma, although with some environmental and sustainability concerns.

Health concerns

Fragrances are often made up of a combination of various chemicals, with more than 3,500 chemicals in use today, according to the International Fragrance Association. Exposure to some of these substances can lead to a wide range of health problems.

The word "fragrance" on a product label often represents an undisclosed mixture of chemicals and ingredients used as fragrance dispersants, such as diethyl phthalate. Fragrance mixes have been associated with a range of health issues, including:

• Allergies
• Dermatitis
• Respiratory distress
• Potential effects on the reproductive system
• Endocrine disruption
• Non-reproductive organ system toxicity
• Ecotoxicology
• Irritation of the skin, eyes, or lungs

Fragrance chemicals can also cause allergic reactions in both children and adults, and have been linked to an increased release of histamine in patients with respiratory symptoms related to perfume.

In addition, certain fragrance chemicals are considered toxic or hazardous under U.S. federal laws. These include:

• Phthalates: Linked to hormone disruption and harmful effects on reproduction and child health.
• Volatile organic compounds: Classified as toxic or hazardous and can cause ozone pollution and form fine particulates.
• Neurotoxicants: Chemicals that are toxic to the brain.
• Synthetic musks: These can build up in the body and enhance the impacts of other toxic chemicals, with some showing hormone disruption potential. They are also persistent in the environment and contaminate waterways and wildlife.

Furthermore, fragrances can exacerbate existing health conditions. For example, the Institute of Medicine has placed fragrance in the same category as second-hand smoke in triggering asthma in adults and school-age children. Up to 72% of asthmatics report their asthma being triggered by fragrance. Fragrances are also a frequent trigger of migraine headaches and can cause allergies and asthma.

Overall, the potential health concerns associated with fragrances are significant and can have a detrimental impact on the lives of those affected, including their ability to work, socialise, and access public spaces.

Fragrance regulations

Fragrance is a mix of various scent chemicals and ingredients used as fragrance dispersants. The word "fragrance" or "parfum" on a product label represents an undisclosed mixture of scent chemicals and ingredients. These fragrance mixes have been associated with allergies, dermatitis, respiratory distress, and potential effects on the reproductive system.

The federal government should protect citizens from toxic chemicals found in fragrances. The FDA regulates personal care products, including the fragrances they contain. However, fragrance mixtures are not required to go through FDA review before being put into use. Instead, the body that sets standards for fragrance is an industry trade group.

According to FDA regulations, if a product adds fragrance ingredients to make the consumer more attractive, it is a cosmetic under the law. For example, perfumes, colognes, and aftershaves are regulated as cosmetics. However, some products add fragrances for therapeutic purposes, such as aromatherapy products, and are generally regulated as pharmaceuticals.

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has formulated practical regulations based on the safety evaluation results of the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). The management of fragrance mainly adopts a forbidden list and restricted list, including forbidden requirements, restricted requirements, and quality specification requirements. The IFRA Standards ban, limit, or set criteria for the use of certain ingredients based on scientific evidence and consumer insights. These standards are compulsory for all IFRA members, who produce around 80% of the global volume of fragrance.

Some fragrance allergens will have to be disclosed under a new federal law that passed in December 2022. However, the Food and Drug Administration has not yet released the list of allergens that must be disclosed, and the requirements will not go into effect until at least 2025.

Frequently asked questions