The Intriguing Balsamic Notes In Colognes Explained

Balsamic notes in cologne are highly valued in the world of perfumery. They are characterised by a sweet, woody, and warm fragrance, with a soft and sensual feel. The term balsamic comes from the Latin 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm, and has nothing to do with vinegar, despite the similarity in the name. These notes are derived from the use of balsams and resins in perfume compositions. The raw materials used are ancient, dating back to the ancient world, and are often the basis of oriental fragrances. They add depth and a mysterious nuance to any fragrance, complementing vanilla and floral notes.

The etymology of 'balsamic'

The term "balsamic" is derived from the Latin "balsamum", which translates to fragrant balm. The word "balsamum" itself is derived from the Greek "βάλσαμον" or "bálsamon", which means "balsam-like" in the sense of restorative or curative. The ultimate origin of the word is the Ancient Hebrew-Phoenician "בשׂם" or "bāśām/besem", which means "perfume or spice".

The term "balsamic" was first used in 1747 to refer to balsamic vinegar, which is made from grape must (freshly crushed grape juice with all the skins, seeds, and stems). The word was used to differentiate this type of vinegar from the classic wine vinegar, as both are derived from wine grapes.

The term "balsamic" is also used in perfumery to describe balsamic notes, which are highly regarded and known for their soothing, soft, warm, and sensual character. These notes are created by balms and resins, which are among the oldest raw materials used in the composition of fragrances. In this context, the term balsamic refers to the balms and resins regularly used in perfumery, and not to balsamic vinegar.

Balsamic notes in perfumery

Balsams are tricky materials that do not necessarily come from tree secretions. They can come from flower pods or bushy twigs, such as vanilla orchids or the Mediterranean rockrose. The focus when referring to balsamic terminology is on the scent and how the materials are different or common in smell, rather than their origin.

Balsamic notes are potent and tenacious, often used as fixatives in both masculine and feminine fragrances. They are known to complement floral and vanilla notes, adding a subtle, sensual, and exotic dimension. These notes are usually found in the heart or base notes of perfumes.

Benzoin, Cistus Labdanum, Incense, Myrrh, Peru Balsam, Styrax, Tolu Balsam, and Copahu Balsam are some of the most frequently used balms and resins in perfumery. Benzoin, derived from the Styrax tree, has a sweet, milky, and spicy scent, evoking the warmth of incense and the roundness of vanilla. Tolu Balsam, produced mainly in Colombia, has a warm and woody smell with sweet and unctuous tones. Peru Balsam, native to South America, offers a sweet olfactory sensation with waxy and leathery undertones. Copahu Balsam, on the other hand, is more aromatic and woody, with spicy and sweet notes.

Balsamic notes have a soothing, warm, and slightly medicinal scent. They are strong and persistent, enveloping a fragrance with their deep and sweet accords. They bring an oriental dimension to any composition, blending perfectly with floral or fruity notes to add a touch of sensuality and mystery.

The different types of balsamic notes

Balsamic notes are highly valued in the world of perfumery, known for their soothing, soft, warm, and sensual qualities. The term "balsamic" comes from the Latin word "balsamum", meaning fragrant balm, and has nothing to do with vinegar despite the association with balsamic vinegar. Balms and resins are the raw materials that create balsamic notes, and they are among the oldest ingredients used in perfumery. These notes are strong and persistent, adding depth and an oriental touch to fragrances. They are commonly found in the heart or base notes of perfumes and are known to complement floral and vanilla aspects, as well as adding a subtle, exotic dimension.

• Benzoin: Benzoin is derived from the Styrax tree and is one of the most representative materials of balsamic notes. It has a sweet, milky, and spicy scent with hints of vanilla and incense. Siamese benzoin, native to Thailand, is the rarest and most valued type.
• Tolu Balsam: Tolu balsam is mainly produced in Colombia and has a warm, woody, and sweet fragrance with unctuous tones.
• Peru Balsam: Peru balsam, despite its name, comes from a tree native to South America, not Peru. It has a sweet olfactory profile with almost caramelized undertones and waxy, leathery, and animal notes.
• Copahu Balsam: Copahu balsam, derived from the copayer, has a more aromatic and woody character with spicy and sweet notes.
• Myrrh: Myrrh is a gum-resin with a sensual, woody, and slightly fruity scent. It is considered one of the world's most exquisite and precious perfume ingredients.
• Frankincense: Frankincense has woodier tones than myrrh but is another important ingredient for balsamic notes.
• Labdanum: Labdanum gum, obtained from cistus leaves, evokes an amber and animalised scent with earthy and leathery nuances.

These balsamic notes are carefully crafted by perfumers to create captivating fragrances that leave a lasting impression.

How to identify balsamic notes

Balsamic notes are derived from the Latin word 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm. They are commonly used in perfumery and are known for their soothing, warm and soft qualities. The notes are created from balsams and resins, which are raw materials that have been used in the composition of fragrances since ancient times.

Balsamic notes are not to be confused with vinegar, despite the name's association. The term 'balsamic' actually refers to the balm of the barrels in which vinegar is stored. This substance is naturally secreted by plants, usually trees, and is initially in liquid form before drying and hardening when exposed to air, releasing a potent odour.

To collect the balsam, the trunk of the tree is cut and the sap is collected. The balsam is then distilled with steam or extracted with volatile solvents to create an essence or absolute.

The most commonly used balms and resins in perfumery include benzoin, Cistus Labdanum, Incense, myrrh, Peru balsam, Styrax, Tolu Balsam and Copahu balsam. Benzoin and Tolu balsam are the most representative materials of balsamic notes. Benzoin, derived from the Styrax tree, has a sweet, milky and spicy scent, reminiscent of vanilla and incense. Tolu balsam, mainly produced in Colombia, has a warm and woody smell with sweet and unctuous tones.

Balsamic notes can also be recreated with other ingredients such as myrrh, a gum resin with a woody and almost fruity scent, and frankincense, which has similar qualities but with woodier tones. Labdanum gum, derived from cistus leaves, adds an amber and animalised scent to fragrances. These raw materials are often combined with woody and amber formulas to create deep and persistent scents with earthy or leathery nuances.

Balsamic notes are potent and long-lasting, serving as excellent fixatives in fragrances for both men and women. They are typically found in the heart or base notes of perfumes, complementing floral and vanilla aspects while adding a subtle, sensual and exotic dimension.

Where balsamic notes are placed in the olfactory pyramid

Balsamic notes are derived from the Latin word 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm. They are created from balsams and resins, which are among the oldest raw materials used in perfumery. These notes are known for their soothing, warm, and sensual character. They are strong and persistent, often enveloping a fragrance, and are excellent fixatives, usually found in the middle or base of the olfactory pyramid.

The olfactory pyramid is generally divided into three parts: Head, Heart, and Base. The Head and Base notes can be further subdivided into two categories each. The Head notes can be divided into "Top" notes, which evaporate within the first 20 minutes, and the actual Head notes, which can be perceived for up to an hour. The Heart notes then evaporate within 4 hours, followed by the Base notes, which can be divided into the actual Base notes and Deep Base notes.

Balsamic notes are typically found in the Heart or Base notes of perfumes. They complement floral and vanilla aspects, adding a subtle, sensual, and exotic dimension to the fragrance. Their gourmand nuances blend seamlessly with other notes, creating an oriental and mysterious character.

In the olfactory pyramid, balsamic notes are placed in the Heart or Base categories. The Heart notes of a fragrance are those that emerge after the initial Top notes have evaporated, usually within the first hour of application. These Heart notes can persist for up to 4 hours and are often fruity or floral scents. The Base notes, on the other hand, are the deepest and most intense part of the fragrance. They emerge warm and intense but may take longer for our senses to perceive them fully. These notes can last for 24 hours or more and are typically comprised of woods, mosses, and other deep, warm scents.

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