Creating Your Signature Scent: A Guide To Making Cologne

Creating your own cologne is a fun and rewarding hobby that allows you to express your creativity and develop a unique fragrance. While it may seem daunting at first, making your own cologne is fairly simple and only requires a few basic ingredients and materials. In this guide, we will explore the steps involved in crafting your own signature scent, from choosing the right essential oils to blending and ageing your cologne. We will also discuss the differences between cologne and perfume, and provide tips on how to personalise your fragrance to make it truly yours. So, are you ready to dive into the world of fragrance creation and discover your own olfactory footprint?

Choosing your essential oils

The essential oils you choose will make or break your cologne. It's important to understand the different levels of scent notes and how they come together to create a finished product. The top notes are the first scents you will smell and wear off first, the middle notes appear once the top notes dry down, and the base notes are the fragrances that will last the longest, usually about 5 to 7 hours.

When choosing your essential oils, consider the type of scent you want to create. Do you want something woody and slightly sweet, or are you looking for something more romantic and floral? Here are some options for each category:

Woody and Sweet Scents

• Cedarwood: One of the oldest essential oils used in perfumery, cedarwood provides a warm and grounding aroma.
• Sandalwood: This essential oil blends well with middle notes and has a masculine, sweet, and spicy odour.
• Vetiver: An earthy and grounding oil that combines well with other citrus notes.

Romantic and Floral Scents

• Jasmine: A romantic floral scent that can be combined with other middle and base notes.
• Rose: Rose essential oil adds a sweet and romantic touch to your cologne.
• Ylang-Ylang: This floral essential oil is often used in perfumes and skincare products.

Remember that whatever scent you select will be diluted and blended, so the final result will likely be different and more muted than the individual scent. Feel free to experiment with different combinations to create a unique fragrance.

Blending the oils

Firstly, you'll need to understand the different levels of scent notes and how they come together to create the finished product. Top notes are the scents that wear off first, followed by middle notes, and finally base notes, which will last on your skin for around 5 to 7 hours.

Choose 3-5 top notes, 2-3 middle notes, and 1 or 2 base notes. A good basic formula to follow is 3 top notes, 2 middle notes, and 1 base note. You can add different combinations of these to produce unique scents.

Now, start the mixing process by adding 1/4 cup of vodka or Everclear to your jar. Then, start adding a few drops of a base note, swirl the solution, and smell it until you're happy with the scent. You can then add another base note or move on to the middle notes, and then the top notes. Make sure to keep track of how many drops of each note you use and what each scent is by keeping a log in a journal or recipe book.

If you're just starting out, you can split up the alcohol contents into smaller amounts to experiment with different smells. Once you have the scent you want, you need to let it age. Store it in a dark container or wrap your jar in aluminium foil to block any light from getting through. Store your fragrance for a minimum of 2 days or a maximum of 30 days. The longer you store, the stronger the smell, as the fragrances will mingle together over time.

Now that your scent has aged, use a minimum of 2 tablespoons of distilled water to dilute the solution. If you're making a sprayable cologne, add 2 more tablespoons of distilled water. Then, add about 5 drops of glycerin to preserve the scent. This will allow the fragrance to last longer in the storage container without being corrupted.

Finally, pour the cologne into a bottle of your choice for application. It is recommended to use a funnel and a dark bottle so that light will not be able to penetrate and weaken the fragrance.

Adding alcohol

Alcohol is a key ingredient in cologne. It is used to dilute the essential oils, making the cologne suitable for use on the skin. Alcohol is unlikely to affect the formula and helps to disperse the oils, making it a popular choice. It also helps the cologne last longer and makes it more intense, so others are more likely to be able to smell the fragrance.

The type of alcohol you use is important. The higher the alcohol proof, the better. You can use perfumer's alcohol, or pure grain alcohol, or even vodka. You will need around 30 grams of alcohol for your cologne.

Once you have added your essential oils to the alcohol, stir the mixture slowly, making sure that the oils are thoroughly dispersed. You will then need to leave the mixture for around three weeks so that the perfume can mature.

After the three weeks are up, filter the cologne through a coffee filter to remove any sediment. Then, pour the cologne into a glass perfume bottle using a funnel, and your cologne is ready to use.

Diluting the cologne

Diluting your cologne is an important step in the perfume-making process. It involves reducing the concentration of the fragrance oils to achieve the desired scent strength and longevity. Here is a detailed guide on diluting your cologne:

Choosing the Right Diluent

The choice of diluent depends on the type of fragrance you want to create.

Perfumer's Alcohol

Perfumer's alcohol is a popular choice for diluting cologne. It helps to disperse the fragrance oils, making the cologne more suitable for application to the skin. Alcohol also intensifies the scent, making it easier for others to perceive. Additionally, it prolongs the fragrance's longevity. If you plan to create an alcohol-based cologne spray, diluting your fragrance materials in perfumer's alcohol is an ideal option.

Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)

DPG is a solvent commonly used in the fragrance industry to dilute insoluble materials. One advantage of DPG is its versatility; it can be used in various bases, including candles, creams, detergents, and oils, unlike perfumer's alcohol, which is typically limited to alcohol-based fragrances. However, it is derived from petrochemicals, making it unsuitable for natural perfumery.

Other Alternatives

For natural fragrances, benzyl benzoate and benzyl alcohol can aid in blending challenging materials. These are aromachemicals, so they are not suitable if you aim to create a fully natural cologne. If you want to maintain a natural composition, you may need to compound your fragrance without diluting it.

Dilution Ratios and Techniques

When diluting your cologne, it is crucial to use the correct ratios and techniques to ensure an effective and consistent fragrance.

Dilution Ratios

Most materials are diluted at a 10% ratio, meaning 10% of the solution is the fragrance material, and 90% is the diluent. However, for extremely potent materials, such as Ethyl Vanillin, a 1% ratio may be more suitable.

Using a Scale

It is essential to use a scale when diluting your cologne, as this ensures accuracy and repeatability. A jewellery scale is a good option for beginners, and it should measure down to at least 0.01g. For a 10g solution at a 10% ratio, you would need 1g of the fragrance material and 9g of the diluent.

Heating Thick Materials

Some materials may require gentle heating to liquefy and blend properly. This can be done using a water bath, where you stand the bottle of material in hot water until it becomes more mobile. An electric leg wax melter can provide additional heat if needed.

When Not to Dilute

There are certain situations where diluting your fragrance materials is not recommended:

Working with Other Bases

If you dilute your fragrance materials in perfumer's alcohol, you won't be able to add them to bases like creams, detergents, candles, or soaps. Therefore, if you plan to incorporate your fragrance into these types of products, consider using a different diluent or keeping your materials undiluted.

Preserving Strong Scents

In some cases, you may want to preserve the strength of a particular scent. Fragrance materials like tonka absolute and mimosa absolute are typically used undiluted to maintain their intensity.

Final Thoughts

Diluting your cologne is a crucial step in creating a well-balanced and appealing fragrance. It allows you to work with challenging materials, experiment with tiny amounts, and better evaluate the scent profile. Remember to choose the appropriate diluent for your desired fragrance type and always use accurate measurements for consistent results.

Storing and ageing

After mixing, your cologne should be left to sit for around 48 hours, then refrigerated for two weeks, and finally shaken so that the molecules can mix. After this initial period, the cologne should be diluted and then left to mature for around three weeks.

Once your cologne has matured, it is important to store it correctly to prolong its life. The main enemies of perfume are sunlight, oxygen, humidity, heat, and big differences in air temperature. Therefore, it is best to keep your cologne in its packaging, in a dark and cool place, away from sources of light, heat, and humidity. A shelf in the bathroom is the worst option.

Frequently asked questions