Anisha Riggs
Calvin Klein is the designer behind the fragrance Obsession, which was launched in 1985. Klein, who was born in the Bronx, New York, in 1942, is an American fashion designer known for his womenswear, menswear, jeans, cosmetics, perfumes, and other collections. Klein's business partner, Robin Burns, played a crucial role in bringing Obsession to life, and the fragrance became a best-seller, challenging other leading brands in the $4 billion retail fragrance industry.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Designer | Calvin Klein |
| Year of Launch | 1985 |
| Top Notes | Lemon, Mandarin, Bergamot, Peach, Jasmine, Rose, Orange blossom, Rosewood |
| Heart Notes | Coriander, Marigold, Armoise, Ylang ylang, Cedar, Sandalwood |
| Base Notes | Amber, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Musk, Civet |
| Marketing | Nude models and entwined bodies |
| Advertising Slogan | Passion without reason |
| Price | $170-an-ounce for the perfume; $30 for a small bottle of cologne |
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What You'll Learn
Calvin Klein, the designer behind Obsession
Calvin Klein is an American fashion designer known for his womenswear, menswear, jeans, cosmetics, perfumes, bed and bath linens, and other collections. He was born on November 19, 1942, in the Bronx, New York, and studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. After graduating in 1962, he began working as an apprentice designer for a coat-and-suit manufacturer in the New York garment district. In 1968, he opened his own company, and the New York fashion industry was in a depressed period. Klein aimed to provide simple, understated clothing, and he gradually placed more emphasis on sportswear, particularly interchangeable separates.
Klein is known for his controversial ad campaigns, including several for his fragrance Obsession. He described his design philosophy as creating "simple, comfortable but stylish clothes—but with nothing overscale or extreme." His clothes were relatively expensive, classic, elegant, and easy to wear, resonating with buyers in the United States and beyond. Klein's achievements represented the triumph of his classical styling and the maturation of the American fashion industry.
Obsession, Klein's first-ever perfume, was introduced in New York in May, followed by launches in Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Dallas. The fragrance is a blend of jasmine, rose, and orange blossoms, marketed under the slogan "passion without reason." Klein described the fragrance as "directional, different, and just didn't remind you of another perfume." He wanted to create something unique in the highly competitive fragrance market, and Obsession's success proved his point, with positive reactions from consumers.
The success of Obsession contributed to the growth of Minnetonka, the Minnesota consumer products company that bought Calvin Klein Cosmetics in 1980. Robin Burns, an executive at Minnetonka, played a crucial role in developing Obsession and positioning it with an image compatible with the Calvin Klein brand—a sensual and sexual fragrance. Klein and Burns worked closely together, with Burns doubling sales and bringing significant financial success to the company.
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Robin Burns, the marketing force
Robin Burns is a powerhouse in the perfume industry, with a particular talent for marketing. Her work with Calvin Klein on the Obsession fragrance line is a testament to her skills, and she is credited with being the driving force behind the success of the brand.
Burns was an executive at Minnetonka, the Minnesota consumer products company that bought Calvin Klein Cosmetics in 1980. She was brought on to repair the company's relationship with designer Calvin Klein and to develop a successful women's fragrance. Her talent was immediately evident, as she doubled sales and brought the company into profit in her first year.
The creation of Obsession was a collaborative effort between Burns and Klein. Klein described the process as "like having a baby", and the fragrance took over a year to create. Burns was responsible for positioning the fragrance with an image compatible with the Calvin Klein brand—a sensual, sexual fragrance. She also oversaw the advertising, packaging, and creative execution.
The result was a massive success. Obsession, a blend of jasmine, rose, and orange blossoms, quickly rose to the top spot in the highly competitive fragrance industry. Burns's talent for marketing is evident in the fragrance's memorable advertising campaigns, which sometimes featured nude models and entwined bodies. Her work with Obsession cemented her reputation as a leading force in the industry, and she is known for her down-to-earth attitude and exceptional business acumen.
In addition to her work on Obsession, Burns also contributed to the development of other Calvin Klein fragrances and cosmetics. She and Klein made several joint appearances to promote the Obsession for Men line and a new women's fragrance, a rare occurrence for the designer, who typically avoided public appearances. Burns's talent for relationship-building was key to these successful collaborations, and her ability to connect with people helped to drive sales and grow the Calvin Klein brand.
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The scent's floral notes
Calvin Klein's Obsession is a complex, enigmatic fragrance that captivates the senses with its alluring blend of spices, florals, and musk. The scent, created in 1985, has a bold and opulent character, exuding warmth and sensuality.
The floral notes in Obsession are elegant and creamy, adding a touch of sophistication to the fragrance. The florals are not overly prominent, instead, they provide a subtle depth that enhances the overall allure of the perfume. The floral essence of jasmine, orange blossom, and rose forms the heart of the fragrance, blending harmoniously with the spicy and woody notes. These floral notes create a delicate and feminine touch, evoking a sense of sophistication and elegance.
The top notes of Obsession feature a burst of bright, citrusy zest, including mandarin orange and bergamot, which linger for an hour or so before gracefully fading. The citrus notes add a fresh and lively dimension to the fragrance, providing a sharp contrast to the warm and spicy middle and base notes.
The base notes of Obsession are rich and indulgent, with warm amber, vanilla, and musk taking center stage. These notes give the fragrance its depth and longevity, leaving a lingering trail on the skin. The combination of amber, vanilla, and musk creates a sensual and inviting aura, making Obsession a perfect choice for those who want to make a statement with their scent.
Obsession for Men, introduced a year after the original Obsession, shares some of the same floral notes, including jasmine, but with a more pronounced focus on spices and woody notes. The men's fragrance has a stronger, more intense character, with lavender and cinnamon taking the lead, creating a masculine and inviting aroma.
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Obsession's advertising campaigns
Calvin Klein's Obsession fragrance advertising campaigns have been known to push the boundaries of what is acceptable in mainstream media. The original campaign for the women's fragrance featured nude models and entwined bodies, with the tagline "passion without reason". The print ad, shot by Bruce Weber in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, was described as "steamy", featuring bare limbs and a sensual, sexual tone. The TV commercial, on the other hand, was more subtle, leaving the interpretation to the viewer.
The Obsession for Men campaign also caused a stir, with its debut in 1992 featuring Mark "Marky Mark" Wahlberg in a series of print ads. The ads were criticised for being too sexual, but they were also incredibly successful, with stores unable to keep the featured underwear in stock.
In 1993, Calvin Klein launched another iconic Obsession campaign, this time featuring Kate Moss and her then-boyfriend, photographer Mario Sorrenti. The campaign was a simple yet radical idea: instead of fabricating romance, they decided to document it. The couple spent 10 days in Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands, returning with hundreds of black-and-white images that would become one of Calvin Klein's most iconic campaigns. The raw and transfixing images, with a voyeuristic tone, swept billboards and buses, defining a generation.
In 2017, Calvin Klein's Chief Creative Officer, Raf Simons, launched Obsessed, the brand's first fragrance under his leadership. The campaign featured never-before-seen video cuts and photos from the 1993 shoot, including footage of Kate Moss at her most elementally magnetic. The bottle design also paid homage to the original campaign, with an unadorned, monochromatic look.
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The fragrance's success and impact
Obsession perfume, created by the famous brand Calvin Klein, first gained popular attention in the mid-1980s. The fragrance was an instant hit and became well-known for its distinct, powerful aroma, a blend of vanilla, amber, jasmine, rose, and orange blossoms. Its bold, intense scent was quite revolutionary for its time. The provocative advertisements for Obsession perfume, which sometimes featured nude models and entwined bodies, further propelled its fame, making it a significant style statement of the 80s and 90s.
The success of Obsession can be attributed to its unique and memorable fragrance, as well as its controversial and attention-grabbing marketing campaign. The advertising, packaging, and creative side of the fragrance came from Calvin Klein, while Robin Burns, an executive at Minnetonka, the Minnesota consumer products company that bought Calvin Klein Cosmetics in 1980, was credited with positioning the fragrance with an image compatible with the Calvin Klein brand—a sensual, sexual fragrance.
Obsession's popularity helped Minnetonka grow significantly. In fact, Burns doubled sales and brought the company into the black in her first year. Minnetonka's chairman, Robert F. Taylor, praised Burns, calling her "the best executive who ever worked for me." Thanks to the success of Obsession, Calvin Klein Cosmetics tallied $74 million in sales in 1986, and the company expected to break $100 million the following year.
The impact of Obsession extended beyond sales figures. The fragrance's bold and intense scent influenced the creation of other popular vanilla-charged men's fragrances, such as "Le Male Le Parfum." Additionally, Obsession's success contributed to the overall growth and diversification of the Calvin Klein brand. The brand's rise to the top of the fashion world was driven by Klein's stylish designs and business acumen, as well as the popularity of its underwear, jeans, and fragrance lines. Today, Calvin Klein is a prominent name in the fashion industry, and its fragrances, including Obsession, have gained immense popularity among the masses.
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Frequently asked questions
Obsession was created by American fashion designer Calvin Klein, in collaboration with Robin Burns, an executive at Minnetonka (the company that bought Calvin Klein Cosmetics in 1980).
Obsession was released in 1985.
Obsession is a blend of jasmine, rose, and orange blossoms. The top notes include lemon, mandarin, bergamot, and peach, with base notes of amber, oakmoss, vanilla, and musk.
The advertising campaign for Obsession featured nude models and entwined bodies, creating a sensual and artistic image. The campaign aimed to stand out and create a lasting impression, reflecting Klein's desire to shake the industry up a bit.
Calvin Klein explained his thoughts behind the name, stating, "I think Obsession is a good name for the '80s - for this age - because people are obsessed with their families, their appearance, with travel. People have strong feelings about life."
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