A Guide To Recognizing Scents In Perfumes And Colognes

Fragrances are created by mixing perfume oil with alcohol, with the more perfume oil, the stronger the fragrance. The four main fragrance families are warm, woody, oriental and fresh, with each effect brought out by different combinations of ingredients.

Fresh fragrances are usually made up of citrus, water and green notes, with a zesty and vibrant smell. Citrus-based fragrances are usually created with lemon, mandarin and bergamot, while water fragrances are made with aquatic notes like sea spray.

Warm fragrances, like DKNY’s Be Delicious, use more florals and juicy fruit scents. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet and spicy. Perfumes and aftershaves in this family are rich and sensual, often made with interesting notes of cardamom, cinnamon, vanilla, jasmine, orchid and orange blossom.

Woody fragrances are another warm family, with a mysterious and captivating scent. Using wood-based smells like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver and amber, it’s a great choice for wearing in the evening. Woody fragrances are split into mossy woods with an earthy, sweet undertone, and dry woods which often have a smoky, leathery smell to them.

Common ingredients in fragrances include:

- Amber oil, which comes from the Baltic amber tree and has a heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note.

- Bergamot, a fragrant fruit that grows on a small Italian evergreen tree.

- Bulgarian Rose, considered the queen of roses in perfumery.

- Calone, a synthetic chemical that adds a “sea breeze” or marine-type note to fragrances.

- Cardamom, an aromatic green spice used to bring radiance and spicy warmth to compositions.

- Cashmeran, a synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odour.

- Civet, musk produced by a gland at the base of the African civet cat's tail.

- Clary sage, an herb that smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco.

- Coumarin, a commonly used perfume compound that smells like vanilla, usually derived from the tonka bean.

- Frangipani, a fragrant tropical flower, also known as West Indian Jasmine.

- Frankincense, a gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and Eastern Africa.

- Galbanum, a gum resin that imparts a green, plant-like smell.

- Guaiac wood oil, derived from a resinous South American tree.

- Hedione, an aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma.

- Heliotrope, a flower with a strong, sweet vanilla-like fragrance with undertones of almond.

- Hinoki wood, also known as Japanese Cypress, an ancient cypress wood native to central Japan.

- Honeysuckle, a fragrant shrub whose odour is a combination of jasmine, vanilla, and honey.

- Indole, a chemical compound that smells floral at low concentrations, but fecal at high concentrations.

- Iso E Super, a chemical aroma that is described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation.

- Jasmine, a flower with a very refreshing and light floral fragrance.

- Labdanum, which comes from the resin of the twigs and branches of a Mediterranean shrub.

- Lavender, which is commonly used in aromatherapy to relax the senses, reduce stress, and create a calming environment.

- Magnolia, a white (or purple) flower that imparts a sweet, green floral note with elements of citrus.

- Mimosa, a flower that is green, floral, powdery, and honeyed.

- Musk, an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources.

- Myrrh, a gum resin that is produced from a bush found in Arabia and Eastern Africa.

- Narcissus, a flower that contributes to the musky scent of popular French perfumes.

- Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree.

- Oakmoss, prized for its aroma, which is heavy at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried.

- Opopanax, also known as sweet myrrh, an herb that grows in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean.

- Orris, derived from the iris plant, with a flowery, heavy, and woody aroma.

- Osmanthus, a flowering tree native to China, with honey and apricot notes.

- Oud or agarwood, a black resin produced in the heartwood of Aquilaria trees.

- Ozone, a synthetic scent meant to mimic the smell of fresh air right after a thunderstorm

Citrus scents: zesty, tangy, and refreshing

Citrus scents are zesty, tangy, and refreshing. They are often associated with bright colours, hot days, and fresh lemonade. Citrus fragrances are typically derived from the essential oils extracted from the fruit's peel, leaves, or blossom.

Citrus perfumes smell true to the nature of the fruit they are taken from. As citrus fruits are generally acidic, sharp, and full of juice, their scents are fresh and zesty. Common citrus fruits found in perfumes include orange, lemon, lime, bergamot, mandarin, clementine, and grapefruit, which vary between bitter and sweet but are always vibrant.

The pure orange note comes from the fruit's peel, which is true to the sweet citrus scent of the produce, with an edge of bitterness. 'Neroli' is extracted from the blossom of the orange tree, adding a floral element to the citrus scent. Mandarin, a type of orange, is generally sweeter than orange, with a bright and green perfume note.

Lemon is the most bitter of citrus scents, with a tangy and sour undertone of sweetness. It is described as clean, energising, and uplifting. Lime has a similar tanginess to lemon but with a lighter, sweeter, and juicier aroma.

Bergamot is a classic citrus note used in perfumery, similar to lemon but with a greener and sweeter quality. It has subtle floral tones that can be compared to Earl Grey tea. Grapefruit is both bitter and sweet, with a unique dirty undertone reminiscent of blackcurrant.

Citrus fragrances are versatile and can be combined with other fragrance families such as floral or woody notes to add complexity and anchor the volatile nature of citrus notes. They are perfect for spring and summertime wear, providing a refreshing and invigorating quality that transcends seasons.

Citrus scents are timeless and elegant, offering a touch of effortless elegance and a breath of sunny optimism. They can boost your mood and are often associated with warmer months, tropical beaches, and sunny days, evoking pleasant memories of summer trips and beach days.

Woody fragrances: mysterious, captivating, and warm

Woody fragrances are mysterious, captivating, and warm, with notes derived from wood materials such as trees, roots, resins, moss, and some leaves and grasses that hold earthy qualities. Woody notes are dependable and pliable, providing the base of a composition and reinforcing the other elements according to their olfactory profile.

Woody fragrances are popular all year round but are particularly suited to the colder months for their rich, earthy character. They are often defined by their aromatic or citrus headnotes and tend to have a particularly masculine smell. Woody fragrances usually smell warm and dry, with common scents including sandalwood, cedarwood, pine, and patchouli.

Cedarwood, one of the most commonly used notes in fragrance, has a dry, distinctive, woody, and resinous character. Its deep qualities lend it to being used as a base note, supporting and combining beautifully with fresher notes such as citrus. Its aroma is comforting, warm, and long-lasting, meaning it works well as an evening scent and is suited to the cooler seasons.

Vetiver is unique, with a rich, intensely earthy, and smoky aroma. It is impossible to replicate synthetically, so you can be assured a vetiver scent is a true representation of its natural essence. Unlike cedarwood, vetiver is a cool fragrance due to its earthy, damp origins, but at the same time, it is luscious, sweet, and full. This makes it suited to the cooler seasons, where intensity is desired to survive the cold, inhospitable climate.

Sandalwood is a widely used scent due to its versatility and ability to blend extremely well with a variety of different notes. The mysterious scented oil is a valuable ingredient, extracted from trees in the genus Santalum. Its aroma is creamy, rich, and sensual, perhaps making it addictive to inhale. The fragrance is balsamic, rich, and sweet with a delicate nod to wood. The smell is exotic, so it is often associated with oriental scents. The aroma is subtler than cedarwood, but it has a unique depth and the ability to linger and last, acting as an excellent fixative for other notes. This staying power is useful in cool weather.

Oud, officially named agarwood, is one of the most expensive and recognised wood ingredients used in perfumery. It has an exotic, oriental quality, lending itself to its use in Eastern-inspired fragrances, where the wood itself is native. The scent is distinctive, earthy, with unique accents of incense, subtly smoky to give it warmth, and hints of leather and musk, while incredibly earthy as well as sweet-spicy incense nuances. A luxurious quality of oud perfume is that it is incredibly long-lasting and will stay on the skin for hours.

Other popular woody fragrances include cedar, pine, patchouli, and guaiacwood. Woody fragrances can be worn in warmer temperatures but not in a particularly hot climate.

Floral perfumes: romantic, feminine, and delicate

Floral perfumes are romantic, feminine, and delicate. They are primarily used for women's fragrances, with men's fragrances occasionally featuring floral notes.

Floral perfumes are composed of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) or aroma compounds that are given off from floral tissue, such as flower petals. They usually smell like fresh-cut flowers or have a powdery note.

There are several subfamilies of floral scents:

• Fruity: Sweet, edible, and tropical, like peach, pear, or apple.
• Soft Floral: Soft, powdery, and sweet with a hint of cream.
• Floral Oriental: Florals with subtle notes of spice.
• Soliflore: Pays homage to a single flower, playing with its many nuances.
• White Floral: Made predominantly from white flowers such as tuberose, gardenia, muguet (lily of the valley), jasmine, and more.
• Abstract Floral: A floral imagined out of thin air, not necessarily based on a real flower.
• Floral Bouquet: Celebrates the interlacing facets of a collection of floral notes, creating beautiful bouquets.

Common floral notes include rose, jasmine, and orange blossoms.

Floral perfumes are perfect for spring and summertime due to their sweet and fresh notes. They add a romantic and feminine touch to a composition, enhancing the feel of natural beauty.

Fruity fragrances: playful, summery, and sweet

Fruity fragrances are playful, summery, and sweet. They are often mixed with alluring floral notes and grounding musk, amber, and earthy accords to create perfumes that are both playful and polished.

Fruity fragrances have become so popular in recent years that they now deserve a category of their own. They range from refreshing to succulent, all the way to musty and mysterious. They provide a nuanced texture and a refreshing feel in fragrances.

Some of the most popular fruity fragrances include cherry, pear, and watermelon. Peach, raspberry, mango, pineapple, and grapefruit are also common fruity notes. These fragrances can be sweet, but the best ones never get cloying and can range from playful to sophisticated, depending on the other notes the fruit is paired with.

For example, Jo Malone's Nectarine Blossom & Honey combines sweet notes of nectarine, peach, and honey, resulting in a playful and summery fragrance. Tom Ford's Bitter Peach, on the other hand, combines peach with blood orange and patchouli, creating a more sophisticated and polished scent.

Fruity fragrances can also be found in combination with other scent families. For instance, floral fruity fragrances were extremely popular in the 2000s, with peach and plum as major components. Additionally, fruity fragrances can be paired with gourmand notes, resulting in scents that are both sweet and playful.

Overall, fruity fragrances offer a wide range of possibilities, from playful and summery to sophisticated and polished, making them a versatile and popular choice in the world of perfumes and colognes.

Oriental scents: warm, spicy, and luxurious

Oriental scents, also known as amber or spicy perfumes, are warm, sensuous, and often infused with exotic spices. They are bold and alluring, featuring warm and spicy notes like nutmeg, musk, cloves, cinnamon, and coumarin. These perfumes are usually quite intense, but a softer, equally alluring version includes more floral notes, such as orchids, orange flowers, and jasmine. Oriental perfumes are often described as mysterious, exotic, and sensual, and they make great evening fragrances.

Oriental perfumes can be further categorised into spicy and floral perfumes. Spicy oriental perfumes include vanilla, musk-like naturals, spices, and amber. They may also contain cinnamon, coumarin, tonka beans, frankincense, myrrh, oud, and labdanum. These scents evoke a sense of mystery and adventure. The sharper and stronger scent associated with spices is often softened with ambery notes from resins and gums. Perfumers also include some floral elements to balance the spice.

On the other hand, floral oriental perfumes, also known as 'florientals', include lighter notes of mandarin and pepper, which open up to reveal deeper aromas of lilac and amber. These perfumes are nice and sweet, with their floral notes preventing them from being overpowering.

Oriental perfumes are a popular choice for winter as they are warming, but they can be worn all year round depending on personal preference.

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