Fragrance And Skin: Is Your Skin At Risk?

Fragrance is commonly added to beauty products to enhance the customer experience, but this is often done at the expense of skin health, especially for those with skin sensitivities. Fragrances can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions, with fragrance allergy being the most common cause of skin irritation from cosmetics. Fragrance allergy usually takes the form of contact dermatitis, with symptoms including rashes, redness, itchiness, burning sensations, blistering on the skin, sneezing, a runny nose, congestion, headaches, and breathing difficulties.

However, not all fragrances are created equal. Natural fragrances are pH-sensitive and contain no harmful ingredients, while synthetic fragrances are created in a lab to mimic a naturally occurring fragrance ingredient or to create a distinct fragrance that cannot be found in nature. Synthetic fragrances are extremely pure and predictable, and their safety is well understood. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, only about 1% of the population has a true fragrance allergy, and irritation comes down to the amount of fragrance you are exposed to.

So, is fragrance bad for your skin? Generally speaking, when used in reasonable amounts, fragranced skincare is unproblematic for a majority of people.

Fragrance allergy symptoms

• Rashes
• Redness
• Itchiness
• Burning sensations
• Blistering on the skin
• Sneezing
• Runny nose
• Congestion
• Headache
• Breathing difficulties
• Heightened sun sensitivity
• Exacerbation of existing skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea

In some rare cases, exposure to fragrances can lead to anaphylaxis, a severe allergic reaction that can be dangerous and may include symptoms such as difficulty swallowing and a rapid or weak pulse.

It is important to note that not all fragrance allergies are equal, and the specific ingredients and molecules used in the fragrance can make a significant difference. Natural fragrances, for example, are often pH-sensitive and do not contain harmful ingredients, while synthetic fragrances may contain chemicals like cinnamic aldehyde, menthol, balsam of Peru, and cinnamates, which can be more likely to cause negative reactions.

Natural vs synthetic fragrances

Natural fragrances are scents created from nature, including trees, plants, and animals. They are physically obtained from natural sources by distillation, extraction, or expression. These are commonly referred to as essential oils, such as lavender oil. However, natural fragrances are not always safe. Some natural fragrances contain hundreds of molecules, and certain chemicals in plant-derived oils, such as lavender and tea tree, may disrupt hormones.

Synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, are developed in laboratories. They are created from chemical processes and often derived from petroleum. Synthetic fragrances replicate the smell of natural oils and accords without harming the environment. They are also more stable, longer-lasting, and more intense than natural fragrances.

The term "natural" in the beauty industry is not well-defined. As such, any brand can use the term as it sees fit. Natural fragrances are often perceived as safer, but this is not always the case. The fragrance industry's regulatory body, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), has strict standards for ingredient safety, and some of the strictest regulations are for natural materials. Certain natural materials, such as oakmoss, jasmine, and ylang-ylang, have been restricted or banned due to their potential allergenic risks.

Synthetic fragrances have gotten a bad reputation due to the use of certain chemicals like parabens and phthalates. However, not all synthetic fragrances contain these toxins, and some natural fragrances can also contain allergens. The Environmental Working Group ranks "fragrance" as a high risk for health and hazard concerns due to the potential presence of these chemicals and the lack of transparency around raw materials.

Both natural and synthetic fragrances have their benefits and drawbacks. Natural fragrances are perceived as more green and healthy, but they can be inconsistent, less stable, and more harmful to the environment due to practices like deforestation. Synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, offer consistent quality, longer shelf life, and a wider range of scents. They are also more sustainable in certain cases, as they do not contribute to the over-farming of natural ingredients.

Ultimately, the choice between natural and synthetic fragrances depends on individual preferences and needs. Most fragrances on the market today combine both natural and synthetic notes to create unique and long-lasting scents.

Fragrance-free vs unscented

When it comes to skincare and cosmetic products, the terms "fragrance-free" and "unscented" are often used interchangeably, but they actually have different meanings and implications. Understanding the distinction between these labels is crucial, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or specific skin conditions. Here's a detailed comparison to help you navigate the world of fragrance-free and unscented products:

Fragrance-Free:

Fragrance-free products are those that do not contain any chemicals or ingredients added solely for the purpose of imparting a scent. In other words, no fragrances or perfumes have been added to enhance the product's aroma. However, it's important to note that "fragrance-free" does not necessarily mean the product will be completely odourless. Natural ingredients in the product, such as aloe vera or rose oil, may have their own inherent scents. Additionally, some products labelled as "fragrance-free" may still contain small amounts of fragrances used to mask the odours of other ingredients.

The key difference between "fragrance-free" and "unscented" lies in the intention behind the addition of fragrances. In fragrance-free products, fragrances are not added for the purpose of creating a scent. This distinction is important, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or allergies. Fragrances are a common cause of contact dermatitis, a skin reaction characterised by redness, itching, and inflammation. Therefore, choosing fragrance-free products is generally recommended for those with skin conditions like eczema or allergic dermatitis.

However, it's worth mentioning that the labelling of "fragrance-free" products can be misleading. Studies have found that a significant percentage of products labelled as "fragrance-free" still contain fragrance ingredients. This discrepancy may be due to the lack of strict regulations and standardised definitions for these terms. Therefore, it's always a good idea to carefully read the ingredient list and look for terms like "parfum", "perfume", "fragrance", "aroma", or "essential oils", which indicate the presence of added scents.

Unscented:

"Unscented" products, on the other hand, are formulated to have no noticeable scent. They are designed to be odourless or have a neutral smell. However, this does not mean that unscented products are completely free of fragrances or scent-masking chemicals. In fact, unscented products often contain "masking fragrances" or "odour neutralisers" to counteract the unpleasant odours of other ingredients. These masking agents can be allergens or irritants for some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin.

The term "unscented" indicates that additional scents have been added to change or neutralise the natural smell of the product. This is done to create a neutral or odourless product. However, it's important to understand that unscented products may still contain fragrance chemicals, even if they don't have an obvious aroma. Similar to "fragrance-free" products, the labelling of "unscented" items can also be misleading, and it's advisable to scrutinise the ingredient list for potential fragrance additives.

Making an Informed Choice:

When choosing between fragrance-free and unscented products, it ultimately comes down to personal preference and skin type. For individuals with sensitive skin, eczema, or allergic dermatitis, fragrance-free products are generally recommended. However, due to potential mislabelling, it's crucial to read the ingredient list and perform a patch test before incorporating a new product into your skincare routine. Consulting a dermatologist or skincare expert is always a good idea if you're unsure about a product's suitability for your skin.

Types of fragrance

Fragrances are typically categorised into scent families, with the four main types being warm, woody, oriental, and fresh. However, there are many subcategories and dominant notes within these broader categories.

Fresh Fragrances

Fresh fragrances are characterised by citrus, water, and green notes, giving them a refreshing, zesty, and vibrant smell. Citrus-based fragrances often include lemon, mandarin, and bergamot, while water fragrances evoke aquatic notes like sea spray. Fresh green fragrances are herbal and leafy, sometimes referred to as aromatic fougère fragrances, and are created with notes of lavender, rosemary, or basil.

Floral Fragrances

Floral fragrances are one of the most popular and broadest families, encompassing any fragrance with a sweet and flowery scent. Notes of roses, jasmine, lilies, and peonies are commonly found in this family, ranging from light and delicate to complex and intense.

Oriental Fragrances

Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and spicy, often considered a more luxurious family. They include floral oriental, soft oriental, and woody oriental perfumes and aftershaves. These fragrances are rich and sensual, featuring interesting notes like cardamom, cinnamon, vanilla, jasmine, orchid, and orange blossom.

Woody Fragrances

Woody fragrances are warm and mysterious, often favoured for aftershaves. They capture the scent of dense forests, expansive deserts, and other lush landscapes, using wood-based notes like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber. Woody fragrances are divided into mossy woods, with an earthy, sweet undertone, and dry woods, which have a smoky, leathery smell.

Other Fragrance Types

In addition to these main categories, there are numerous other types of fragrances, including Aquatics, Gourmands, Oud, Leather, Boozy, Tobacco, Spices, Vanilla, Vetiver, and Blue fragrances. These categories can be further broken down into subcategories and dominant notes, such as rosemary, mandarin, tea, tuberose, and white florals.

Allergies and sensitivities

Fragrances are a common cause of skin irritation, with fragrance allergy being the most common cause of skin irritation from cosmetics. This is especially true for people with skin sensitivities. Fragrances can cause allergic contact dermatitis, eczema, hives, and photo-allergic reactions.

The term "fragrance" covers a wide range of compounds, with thousands of different chemicals used to create fragrances. Some of these compounds are natural, while others are synthetic. Natural fragrances are typically derived from plants but can also come from animals. Synthetic fragrances are created in a lab, often to mimic rare or unsustainable natural fragrances.

Only about 1% of the population has a true fragrance allergy, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. However, fragrance sensitivity is more common, with many people experiencing irritation from fragrances. Symptoms of fragrance sensitivity can include coughing, sneezing, gagging, shortness of breath, rhinitis, asthma attacks, headaches, anxiety, and dizziness.

It's important to note that not all fragrances are created equal, and some may be more irritating than others. The largest offenders tend to include chemicals like cinnamic aldehyde, menthol, balsam of Peru, and cinnamates.

If you think you may have a fragrance allergy or sensitivity, it's best to consult a dermatologist. They can help you determine if fragrance is the cause of your skin issues and provide guidance on which products to use.

Frequently asked questions