Creating Unique Scents: A Guide To Making Fragrances

Creating your own fragrance is a fun and rewarding process that allows you to design a unique scent that suits your taste and mood. Whether you're crafting a perfume, cologne, or any other type of fragrance, the basic principles remain the same. It's important to remember that perfumery is an art form, and blending fragrances takes patience, practice, and an open mind. The key to success lies in understanding the different ingredients, their properties, and how they interact with each other.

The first step in creating your own fragrance is to familiarise yourself with the various scents and their categories. Fragrances are typically classified into top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are light and fresh, middle notes form the heart of the perfume, while base notes are rich and long-lasting. Experimenting with different combinations of these notes will help you create a well-rounded and delightful scent.

When it comes to ingredients, essential oils and fragrance oils are the most commonly used. Essential oils are known for their natural and 'real' scents, as well as their aroma-therapeutic properties. Fragrance oils, on the other hand, are synthetic and may be preferred for their lower cost. However, it's important to use high-quality fragrance oils, known as 'fragrance notes', specifically designed for perfumery.

The choice of carrier is another important consideration. Alcohol is a popular option as it inhibits microbial growth and evaporates quickly, enhancing the presence of the fragrance. Alternatively, oil-based perfumes are a great choice for those with sensitive skin, as they are more intimate and long-lasting.

Once you've selected your ingredients and carrier, it's time to start blending. This is where your creativity and experimentation come into play. Remember that not every blend will be perfect on the first try, so be prepared to make adjustments and refine your formula. You can also seek guidance from online resources, fragrance experts, or even enrol in a perfumery class to enhance your skills.

Lastly, don't forget to have fun with the process! Creating your own fragrance is a journey of discovery and self-expression, so embrace the magic of blending and enjoy the unique scents you create.

Choosing your ingredients

Choosing the right ingredients is a vital part of creating a fragrance. Perfume consists of a blend of essential oils in a base oil, blended with alcohol and water. The essential oils are known as 'notes' and are chosen based on the character you want to give your fragrance. Will it be sensual, oriental, woodsy, elegant or sporty?

The top notes evaporate the quickest, followed by the middle notes, and then the base notes, which last the longest on the skin. Some common top notes include anise, bergamot, eucalyptus, grapefruit, lemon, mandarin, and spearmint. Middle notes include angelica, bay, black pepper, cardamom, chamomile, cypress, and geranium. Base notes include benzion, carrot seed, cedarwood, frankincense, jasmine, myrrh, patchouli, and vanilla.

Other elements can be added to a fragrance, including sea salt, spicy black pepper, and earthy vetiver. The order in which the ingredients are mixed is important, as it affects the scent. If you change the order, be sure to record it, as you may prefer the new result.

Essential oils are made from natural ingredients, while fragrance oils are synthetic/lab-produced. Fragrance oils are cheaper, but essential oils smell better and have more aroma-therapeutic properties. For example, the scent of real lavender essential oil can be soothing and calming for the mind.

When choosing your ingredients, it's also important to consider any regulations that may apply, especially if you plan to sell your fragrance. Some chemicals have restrictions on how much can be used in a final product.

Selecting a carrier

Alcohol is the more common choice for modern perfumes. It serves as an effective carrier for fragrance molecules due to its quick evaporation rate, increasing the "presence" of the fragrance. Additionally, alcohol is resistant to microbial growth, preventing the growth of unwanted microorganisms. However, it can be drying to the skin and may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin.

On the other hand, oil-based perfumes offer a more intimate and long-lasting experience. Oils have a slower evaporation rate, allowing the fragrance to linger on the skin for a more extended period. This makes oil-based perfumes ideal for those seeking a subtle and personal scent. However, oils can be more prone to microbial growth, so it is important to select a stable carrier oil that is less susceptible to rancidity. Examples of suitable carrier oils include sweet almond oil and jojoba oil.

When selecting a carrier, it is also important to consider the concentration of your fragrance. For stronger perfumes, such as parfum, a higher percentage of fragrance oil (20-40%) is required, while weaker fragrances like eau fraiche contain a lower percentage (1-2%). The desired strength and intensity of your fragrance will guide you in choosing the appropriate carrier and concentration.

Additionally, the choice between alcohol and oil will impact the presence and projection of your fragrance. Alcohol-based perfumes have a stronger presence and are more readily detected by those around you, while oil-based perfumes have a smaller presence and require closer proximity to be noticed.

In conclusion, selecting the right carrier for your fragrance involves careful consideration of various factors. Alcohol is a popular choice for its ability to enhance the presence of a fragrance, but it can be drying to the skin. Oil-based perfumes offer a more intimate and long-lasting experience but require careful selection of stable carrier oils. The desired strength, intensity, and presence of your fragrance will guide your decision in choosing the best carrier.

Blending your fragrance

Get the right tools:

Before you start blending, make sure you have the right tools. You will need a small scale, as measuring your ingredients in grams is more accurate than using drops. You will also need a glass jar for mixing, measuring tools, and bottles for your finished product.

Source your ingredients:

It can be challenging to find industry-grade perfumery ingredients in small quantities, so this step will require some research. Look for reputable suppliers that offer high-quality, natural ingredients and molecules. It is important to have a variety of ingredients to work with, including both natural extracts and molecules.

Understand fragrance notes:

Fragrances are typically composed of three types of notes: top, middle, and base notes. Top notes are the first scent you smell when you put on a perfume, and they disappear quickly. Middle notes appear after the top notes and form the core of the fragrance. Base notes are rich and heavy and linger the longest, providing a foundation for the lighter top and middle notes. Familiarize yourself with popular notes in each category and their respective ratios when blending.

Create your brief:

Think about the type of scent you want to create. Do you want it to be floral, woody, or a combination of both? Do you want a light and airy fragrance or something deep and sensual? Consider whether you want your fragrance to feature single notes or a combination of notes.

Write your formula:

Spend time creating your formula, keeping in mind the different notes and their ratios. Write out your formula as a percentage of the total, which will help you understand the impact of each ingredient and make adjustments as needed.

Evaluate and rework:

Once you have created your initial formula, weigh your ingredients, give them a gentle shake, and evaluate the result on a scent strip. This will allow you to assess what works well and what needs to be adjusted. Rework your formula as needed, and don't be afraid to experiment and fail.

Dilute your composition:

Perfumes typically use alcohol as a solvent to dilute the fragrance and make it more approachable. You can pre-dilute your ingredients at 10% to make the process easier. For a 10% dilution, mix 1 gram of your ingredient or composition with 9 grams of alcohol. For very powerful ingredients, you may want to dilute them at 1% in alcohol.

Macerate your fragrance:

Let your created fragrance sit for a day or so to allow it to settle and mature. Some creations may change colour, but this is normal and will rarely affect the scent.

Testing your perfume

Testing Perfume with Paper Blotters

Paper blotters, also known as smelling strips or mouillettes, are the simplest and most neutral tool for testing perfumes. They are clean, simple to use, and allow you to sample multiple fragrances without contamination. Here's how to use them effectively:

• Bend the end of the smelling strip upwards to prevent the fragranced end from touching any surfaces.
• Hold the strip away from you and spray the perfume downwards onto the strip, avoiding any surfaces or your hands.
• Spray once or twice and ensure consistency when testing multiple fragrances.
• Handle the strip only by the unscented end.
• Pass the strip under your nose without touching it, inhaling lightly to perceive the first notes.
• Set the strip aside and observe how the fragrance develops over time.
• Fan out multiple strips to prevent the oils from different perfumes from mixing.
• Store used strips in separate compartments to experience the fragrance later in the day.

Testing Perfume on Skin

Testing on paper blotters gives you an initial impression, but it's crucial to test the perfume on your skin since it will react uniquely with your body chemistry. Here's a guide on skin testing:

• Shortlist 2 fragrances from your blotter testing to try on your skin.
• Spray your wrist or the back of your hand, not too close and not too far.
• Let the perfume dry naturally without rubbing or touching your wrist.
• Inhale the perfume without touching your nose to the spot.
• Observe how the fragrance develops over time, periodically referring back to it.
• Avoid washing or splashing water on the tested area during this time.
• Ensure thorough handwashing before applying another fragrance to a different area.

Additional Tips from Perfumers

• Avoid touching candles, reed diffusers, lotions, or any scented products when testing perfumes to prevent contamination.
• Trust your nose and listen to your senses rather than relying solely on others' opinions or fragrance reviews.
• Take a break after testing 3 fragrances to avoid nasal fatigue. Avoid using coffee beans between tests, as they have no effect on clearing your nose.
• Avoid wearing your own fragrance or strong deodorant when sampling perfumes, and refrain from eating strongly spiced or garlicky foods beforehand.
• Allow the alcohol in the perfume to evaporate before inhaling to avoid skewing your perception and causing nasal fatigue.
• Try to test perfumes in an environment free from other odours, or take a sample home to wear and experience the fragrance in your daily life.

Bottling and packaging

When it comes to bottling and packaging your fragrance, there are a few key things to keep in mind. Firstly, it's important to choose a bottle that complements the type of fragrance you have created. If you're positioning your perfume as a luxury, exclusive product, you'll want to opt for high-quality glass, crystal, or metal bottles with intricate designs and embellishments. A weighted base can also enhance the luxury feel of the bottle. On the other hand, if you're aiming for a more sustainable and eco-friendly approach, you might choose recycled glass or plastic bottles with minimal decoration.

Another important consideration is the functionality of the bottle. Features such as airless pumps can help preserve the integrity of the fragrance, while ergonomic designs make the bottle easier to handle and use. You also need to decide on the closure or dispenser for your bottle, such as an aluminium cap, pipette, pump, or atomiser spray.

Customising your bottle is a great way to make your fragrance stand out and reflect your brand's identity. You can tailor the decoration, shape, and colour scheme of the bottle to align with your brand image and the character of the fragrance. This could include techniques like gold hot stamping or glass engravings.

Finally, it's worth noting that some colours of glass, such as amber or opaque packaging, can provide additional protection for your fragrance by blocking out UV rays that may cause deterioration.

In terms of the filling process, you'll need to find a reliable company to help with small fragrance runs. Initially, you may want to fill orders yourself, but as your business grows, you'll need to outsource this task. Most companies will require a minimum of 1,500 to 2,000 pieces per project, so keep that in mind when planning your production.

Frequently asked questions