Exploring The Cologne Cathedral: Countless Steps, Countless Stories

The Cologne Cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece and one of Germany's most important architectural monuments. It is also one of the country's most popular tourist attractions. But a visit to this UNESCO World Heritage Site is not for the faint-hearted – to reach the observation deck, you'll need to climb a spiral staircase of more than 500 steps. It's a dizzying ascent, with narrow, uneven steps and small landing areas. But the effort is worth it for the spectacular views over the city.

The climb to the top of the Cologne Cathedral

The Cologne Cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece and one of Germany's most important monuments. It is the fourth tallest cathedral in the world and boasts the largest swinging bell in the world. The climb to the top of the cathedral is not for the faint-hearted—it is a steep ascent of 500+ steps via a narrow, dizzying spiral staircase. But the spectacular views from the top make it all worth it.

Getting There

The cathedral is easily accessible, located right outside Cologne's main train station. If you are travelling by metro or train, get off at the "Dom/Hauptbahnhof" stop.

Tickets

Entry to the cathedral is free. However, there is a fee to climb the tower and access the treasury chamber. Tickets for the tower cost €6 for adults, €3 for concessions, and €12 for a family ticket. The treasury chamber costs €4 for adults, €2 for concessions, and €8 for a family ticket. A combined ticket for both costs €9 for adults, €4.50 for concessions, and €18 for a family ticket.

The Climb

The climb can be divided into three sections. The first and longest section involves a spiral stone staircase that seems to go on forever. It is a tight squeeze as people coming down try to pass you. Keep an eye out for a doorway ledge if you need to take a break.

The second section begins with a large open space with seats, where you can catch your breath and prepare for the next climb—a metal staircase.

The final section is another stone spiral staircase. By the time you reach this part, you will be almost at the top.

In total, there are 533 steps to the viewing platform, and the climb can take at least 15 minutes. The final part of the climb involves walking on a wooden staircase, so if you have a fear of heights, this may not be for you!

Top Tips

• Take your time and rest when needed.
• Bring some water to stay hydrated.
• Don't forget to bring your camera to capture the incredible views and architecture.
• Climb in the morning to get the best light for photographs.
• Avoid climbing during hot summer weather—it gets very warm in the tower.
• Be mindful that it is a narrow, one-way walk at the top, so take your time to take in the views without rushing.
• If you are visiting on a weekend or during the busy Christmas Market season, try to go in the morning to avoid the crowds.
• If you are claustrophobic or have health issues, this climb may not be suitable.

The history of the cathedral

The history of the Cologne Cathedral is a long and fascinating one, spanning many centuries and featuring numerous challenges, setbacks, and interruptions. Here is an overview of the cathedral's construction and history:

The Early Years

The site of the Cologne Cathedral has been occupied by Christian churches since the 4th century. In 1164, the Archbishop of Cologne, Reinald von Dassel, brought the supposed bones of the Three Wise Men to the city, elevating its status and attracting pilgrims. To accommodate the growing importance and influx of visitors, construction of a new, grand cathedral began in 1248, following the Gothic style of the time. However, progress was slow and faced numerous challenges.

Medieval Construction

Under the direction of Master Gerhard, the first master builder, the foundation stone was laid in 1248, and construction commenced. The eastern arm was completed and consecrated in 1322, but work continued intermittently over the centuries. In the 14th and 15th centuries, construction progressed on various parts of the cathedral, including the choir, the south tower, and the casting of the bells Pretiosa and Speciosa. However, the project faced financial difficulties and was interrupted by wars, eventually stalling completely in the 16th century due to the Reformation and the Thirty Years' War.

A Long Hiatus

For more than 300 years, construction on the Cologne Cathedral came to a halt. It wasn't until the 19th century that efforts to complete the cathedral were revived. Prussia annexed the Rhineland, and the city of Cologne became part of the Prussian state, providing an opportunity to resume work. In 1842, King Frederick William IV of Prussia laid a new cornerstone, and restoration work began under the architect Ernst Friedrich Zwirner. The interior of the cathedral was consecrated in 1848, and construction of the towers and other remaining elements commenced.

Completion and Modern Times

Finally, in 1880, after 632 years of construction, the Cologne Cathedral was completed. Standing at 157 meters tall, it became the tallest building in the world at the time. The completion was celebrated as a national event, attended by Emperor Wilhelm I. However, the work on the cathedral was not truly over. Continuous maintenance and restoration are required due to the effects of weather, pollution, and sporadic earthquake damage. During World War II, the cathedral suffered damage from bombing but remained standing. Repairs were completed by 1956, and the cathedral continues to undergo regular conservation and restoration to preserve its structure and artwork.

The cathedral's stained glass windows

The Cologne Cathedral boasts a rich collection of stained glass windows, ranging from the 14th to the 21st century. The earliest of these is the 'Bible Window' in the axial chapel of the Three Kings, which dates back to the 13th century and is the oldest preserved 'Bible Window' in Germany. Another 'Bible Window', originally from the Dominican church, is now found in the St Stephen Chapel and reflects the influence of French court painting.

The clerestory windows in the choir of the cathedral contain the largest series of stained glass windows from the 14th century still found in Europe. Ninety-five per cent of the glass is original, with the windows completed before the choir stalls were installed in 1311.

In the 19th century, during a period of renewed interest in Gothic art, medieval glass from secularised Cologne parish and monastic churches was incorporated into the cathedral's glazing, mainly in the north transept and sacristy. Among these windows are the 'Bayernfenster', a set of five on the south side donated by Ludwig I of Bavaria, as well as the St Stephen Window, the Pentecost Window, and the Lamentation Window.

The south transept of the cathedral features a modern stained glass window designed by Cologne artist Gerhard Richter. Completed in 2007, the window covers 106 square metres and consists of 11,263 glass squares in 72 colours, arranged randomly with some selected in response to the architectural context. The abstract design was both celebrated and criticised, with Cologne cardinal Joachim Meisner stating that it would be better suited to a mosque or another house of prayer.

The Shrine of the Three Holy/Wise Kings

The Shrine of the Three Holy Kings, also known as the Tomb of the Three Kings or the Tomb of the Three Magi, is a large gilded and decorated triple sarcophagus situated above and behind the high altar of Cologne Cathedral in western Germany. The shrine is a reliquary, traditionally believed to contain the bones of the Biblical Magi, or the Three Wise Men.

The shrine was built between 1180 and 1225 and is considered the high point of Mosan art. It is one of the largest reliquaries in the Western world. The shrine has undergone periods of damage and restoration, particularly in the 16th century, and was last restored between 1961 and 1973 after being removed from the cathedral during World War II.

The relics of the Three Kings are said to have first been brought to Constantinople (now Istanbul) by Empress Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, in the 4th century. They were then taken to Milan by Bishop Eustorgius I in 314, where they remained until 1164. In that year, Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa gifted the relics to the Archbishop of Cologne, Rainald of Dassel, who had also been his imperial Archchancellor during the siege of Milan. Rainald transferred the relics to Cologne, where the shrine was built to house them.

The shrine is approximately 110 cm (43 inches) wide, 153 cm (60 inches) high, and 220 cm (87 inches) long. It is shaped like a basilica, with two sarcophagi side by side and a third resting on their roof ridges. The basic structure is made of wood, with gold and silver overlay, decorated with filigree, enamel, and over 1,000 jewels and beads. The outside of the shrine is covered with intricate decorative overlays, with 74 high-relief figures in silver-gilt, depicting scenes from the lives of the Three Magi, the Virgin Mary, and Christ.

The front of the shrine, completed after 1200, resembles a cathedral and contains the most precious gems. It features images of the Adoration of the Magi, the Virgin Mary enthroned with the infant Jesus, the Baptism of Christ, and Christ enthroned at the Last Judgment. A removable filigree panel reveals a grille displaying the names of the Three Kings, and when this is removed, their skulls, wearing crowns, are visible.

The back of the shrine is divided into three zones: lower, middle, and upper. The lower zone depicts the Flagellation and Crucifixion, separated by the standing figure of Jeremiah. The middle zone contains a portrait bust of Rainald of Dassel, and the upper zone shows the resurrected Christ crowning the martyrs Felix and Nabor.

The Shrine of the Three Kings is an important attraction within the Cologne Cathedral, drawing pilgrims from around the world.

The South Tower

The climb starts from a separate access structure on the side of the cathedral, where you'll also find the box office. The stairs are narrow and slippery, and it can get tight when you encounter people coming down. However, there are small windows along the way where you can take in the views, and a detour to see the cathedral bells.

At a height of about 53 metres, you will come across St. Peter's Bell, also known as "Decker Pitter" by the people of Cologne. Cast in 1923, it weighs 24,000 kilograms and was the largest bell in the world swinging on a straight yoke until 2016. It only rings on special occasions and major holidays.

Once you reach the observation deck, you will be rewarded with panoramic views of the city centre of Cologne, the Rhine, and, in good weather, the Siebengebirge. The final part of the climb involves walking on a wooden staircase, so if you have a fear of heights, you may want to reconsider.

Frequently asked questions