The Art Of Crafting Men's Cologne

Men's cologne is typically made from a combination of essential oils, alcohol, and water. The specific ingredients and their ratios can vary depending on the desired fragrance, but the process of making cologne involves blending these components together to create a unique scent. The concentration of oils in cologne is usually between 2% and 5%, with the remaining ingredients being a mixture of alcohol and water. The type of essential oils used can include citrus oils such as lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as other aromatic plant-based oils like lavender, rosemary, and jasmine. Some colognes may also contain unexpected ingredients like whale vomit or deer urine, which are used to create unique and intense fragrances.

The history of cologne

However, the story of perfume and its ancient precursors goes back much further. Early perfumes were used to scent the air and were often aromatic resins and oils burned to release their aroma. The Latin term "per fumum" means "through smoke", giving us the word "perfume". These first perfumes can be traced to ancient Mesopotamia and were also found in the Middle East, India, and China. Arabic treatises spread distillation techniques to Europe, especially Spain, Italy, and France.

The ancient Egyptians crafted the earliest examples of perfume bottles from clay or wood. As perfume spread across cultures, designs became more ornate. Romans hollowed out precious stones or crafted magnificent glass, while Ancient Greeks used terracotta sculpted into animal forms and shells.

In the 18th century, a variety of materials were employed for perfume bottles, including porcelain, silver, copper, and white glass, influenced by artistic movements. Enamel became popular as a base for hand-painted pastoral scenes.

In England, during the 19th century, Queen Victoria's modest ideals stood in stark contrast to the extravagance of King Louis XIV's perfumed court in France. Under Victoria's influence, fragrances were simple, fresh, and understated, with delicate notes of lavender, jasmine, bergamot, lemon, and violet.

The Victorian era also witnessed technological advancements that revolutionised perfumery. Synthetic products, such as vanillin, ushered in an explosion of fragrance options, with companies vying to create the most enticing synthetic compounds.

The 20th century saw the emergence of modern perfumery, building upon the newfound creative diversity of olfactory art. Fashion influences, such as the glamorous Art Nouveau movement, and cultural shifts towards entertainment and leisure encouraged the use of fragrances for various occasions.

The men's fragrance industry took off in the 1930s, with the release of specifically marketed masculine scents like 'Pour Un Homme de Caron' by the house of Caron in 1934.

Today, with a shift towards equality and the deconstruction of gender norms, fragrances are once again moving towards being unisex.

How to make your own cologne

Creating your own cologne can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to express your creativity and develop a unique scent that suits your preferences. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you craft your signature cologne.

Step 1: Understanding the Fragrance Scale

Before you begin blending, it's crucial to familiarize yourself with the fragrance scale. Top notes are the initial scents you'll perceive in a cologne composition. Middle notes emerge once the top notes dissipate, and base notes form the foundation of the fragrance. The ratios of these notes are essential to creating a well-balanced cologne.

The basic pyramid accord, recommended by experts, suggests using 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can experiment with different ratios to find the formula that suits your desired profile.

Step 2: Choosing Your Essential Oils

The selection of essential oils is vast, ranging from woody and sweet scents like cedarwood to romantic florals such as jasmine, rose, or ylang-ylang. Remember that your chosen scent will be diluted and blended, resulting in a more subtle fragrance than the initial impression of the individual oil.

Step 3: Blending the Essential Oils

This is where the magic happens. Start by adding a few drops of essential oils one by one, mixing as you go. Remember that not all notes complement each other, so this step involves trial and error. It's recommended to use no more than 30 drops total, and if one scent is particularly potent, use less of it. Once you've achieved your desired blend, add two ounces of alcohol to the mixture.

Step 4: Allowing the Fragrance to Mature

Give your cologne time to develop by letting it sit for 48 hours. You can then refrigerate it for two weeks to enhance the blending process. After this period, shake the mixture to ensure the molecules are thoroughly mixed.

Step 5: Diluting the Fragrance

To prepare your cologne for use, dilute it by adding two tablespoons of distilled water and five drops of glycerin to a spray bottle. Carefully and slowly swirl in your bespoke fragrance mixture. Your signature cologne is now ready for use!

Additional Tips:

• You can enhance the presentation of your cologne by choosing an elegant spray bottle.
• Consider adding dried flowers to your cologne for an extra touch of sophistication.
• Be prepared to invest time and money into this endeavour, as creating high-quality fragrances takes practice and patience.

The difference between cologne and perfume

Perfumes typically contain 20-30% aromatic compounds in an oil or alcohol base, with some even reaching up to 40% oil concentration. This high concentration means that a small amount goes a long way, and it can last up to 24 hours on the skin. The higher concentration of oils also makes perfume more expensive.

In contrast, colognes usually contain only 2-8% aromatic oils in an alcohol base, making them perfect for everyday wear. Due to their lower concentration levels, colognes generally fade much faster than perfumes, often lasting only a couple of hours after application.

Another key difference is the scent profile. Colognes tend to have a fresh, citrusy, or aquatic scent, making them ideal for warmer months when heavier fragrances might feel too overwhelming. On the other hand, perfumes can have a wider range of scents, from woody and herbal to floral and powdery.

It is important to note that the distinction between cologne and perfume is not based on gender. While there is a perception that colognes are for men and perfume is for women, this is not accurate. Both men and women can wear perfume or cologne.

Common cologne ingredients

Creating a cologne involves blending various ingredients, both familiar and exotic, to produce a unique scent. While the specific ingredients and their ratios may vary, here is a list of commonly used elements in men's colognes:

Bergamot

Bergamot, a type of fragrant citrus fruit resembling a pear lemon or a Seville orange, is often found in traditional colognes. Grown in Southern Italy, its essential oil lends an instant zing to the fragrance, reminiscent of Earl Grey tea, which is made from bergamot rind.

Amber (Ambergris)

Amber, also known as ambergris, is derived from the by-product of sperm whale vomit. After floating in the ocean and oxidising for years, it develops a surprisingly intoxicating scent. Synthetic amber is now often used, combining resins like benzoin, labdanum, and vanilla to achieve a similar effect. Amber adds a sweet, lingering base note to colognes and helps fix other notes in place.

Musk

Musk is a cornerstone of perfumery, originally derived from the fragrant secretion of the musk deer. Today, synthetic musks are commonly used, adding a clean, balancing effect to the fragrance. Musk softens the overall scent, creating the impression of a soft, warm body.

Oud (Agarwood)

Oud, also known as Agarwood, is a rich and resinous substance derived from the fungus that grows on the wood of aquilaria and gyrinops trees. Due to its scarcity, it is expensive, and perfumers often use synthetic substitutes to replicate its smoky, woody, and medicinal scent.

Vetiver

Vetiver is a perennial grass native to South India, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka. The most prized vetiver oil comes from Haiti, which produces a significant portion of the world's supply. Vetiver has a unique, earthy, green, and nutty aroma, considered one of the most "masculine" scents in perfumery.

Essential Oils

Essential oils form the heart of a cologne's scent. Common essential oils used in men's colognes include woody notes like cedarwood, romantic florals like jasmine, rose, or ylang-ylang, and citrus notes like bergamot or mandarin. These oils are carefully blended to create a unique fragrance.

Alcohol

Alcohol is a crucial component in cologne-making, acting as a solvent for the essential oils and other ingredients. Rubbing alcohol or witch hazel can be used for this purpose.

Glycerin

Glycerin, such as vegetable oil, is added to extend the longevity of the cologne and help it adhere to the skin.

These are just a few of the common ingredients found in men's cologne, each contributing to the unique scent profile and character of the final product.

How to choose a cologne

The best cologne for men will vary across budget, preference, and occasion, but the goal is always to help you smell really good. A great cologne will punctuate your personality and enhance the experience of those around you.

Understand the Fragrance Scale

The fragrance scale refers to the different notes of a cologne: top, middle, and base. Top notes are the first scents you'll smell, followed by the middle, and then the base notes which form the fragrance foundation. The best way to guarantee a scent you'll love is to follow the basic pyramid accord: 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can experiment with different ratios to create a unique formula.

Choose Your Essential Oils

Essential oils are the key ingredients that give cologne its scent. With so many options available, it can be challenging to pick just one. Popular choices include woody scents like cedarwood, floral fragrances such as jasmine and rose, or citrus oils like bergamot and grapefruit. Remember that the final result will likely be more muted than the initial scent of the essential oil.

Sample Different Fragrance Families

Familiarize yourself with different fragrance families such as woody, aromatic, citrus, spicy, and leather. Woody fragrances are rich and inherently masculine, while aromatic and citrus colognes are bright, refreshing, and better suited for year-round wear. Spicy and leather options are sultrier and may be better for specific occasions.

Consider the Vibe

The same notes can manifest differently depending on how they're used, so it's important to understand the vibe of a cologne. If you're looking for an everyday scent, avoid fragrances that are overly powerful or expressive. Instead, opt for something that suits your personality and the image you want to project.

Ask for Recommendations

If you like how someone else's cologne smells, don't be afraid to ask them about it. You might discover a new fragrance that suits you perfectly, or at the very least, get some inspiration for your next purchase.

Test Before You Buy

When you've found a cologne you're interested in, make sure to test it out before committing to a full-size bottle. Let the fragrance dry down on your skin and wait a few hours before making a final decision. If you can imagine yourself wearing it for a particular occasion or mood, then it's a keeper.

Remember, choosing a cologne is a personal journey, and it's okay to experiment until you find the perfect scent that suits your unique taste and personality.

Frequently asked questions