The Intricate Art Of Crafting Cologne

Creating cologne is an art that involves blending different scents to produce a unique fragrance. The process of making cologne has evolved over time, from ancient techniques to modern scientific methods. Today, cologne is made by extracting scented oils from natural ingredients, such as plants, fruits, and woods, or even animal secretions. Synthetic chemicals are also used to emulate certain scents. The process involves several steps, from gathering ingredients to extracting oils, blending, aging, and quality control.

Understand the different notes in a fragrance

To understand the different notes in a fragrance, it's important to know that they are the individual scent layers that make up a perfume. They are the building blocks of a fragrance and are typically categorised into three main types: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Each note has a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity, and they are combined to form a unified, pleasing perfume.

Top notes, sometimes called head notes, are the initial scents you smell when you first spray or apply a perfume. They are usually light and volatile, lasting only about 10-15 minutes. Common top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.

Heart notes, or middle notes, are the scents that emerge after the top notes dissipate. They last longer than top notes, typically around 2-3 hours, and form the heart or main body of the perfume. Heart notes include full-bodied floral oils like jasmine, geranium, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon and pepper.

Base notes, also known as soul notes, are the longest-lasting notes in a fragrance. They kick in about 30 minutes after application and provide depth and resonance to the lighter notes. Popular base notes include woody scents like sandalwood and cedarwood, as well as vanilla, amber, and musk.

These three types of notes work together to create a perfume's unique scent profile. The ratios of these notes are carefully selected by perfumers to ensure the fragrance smells pleasant and evokes a certain experience.

When creating a fragrance, it's important to understand the fragrance scale and the ratios of each type of note. A typical ratio for a DIY fragrance is 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can experiment with different ratios to create a unique fragrance that suits your taste.

Gather the required materials

To make cologne, you will need a combination of natural and synthetic ingredients. The specific materials you will need will depend on the type of cologne you want to make, but here is a general list of the materials required:

Natural Ingredients

Natural ingredients are those that are derived from plants, fruits, woods, or animal secretions. Here are some common natural ingredients used in cologne-making:

• Flowers: Rose, jasmine, lavender, etc.
• Fruits: Lemon, orange, grapefruit, etc.
• Woods: Cedarwood, sandalwood, etc.
• Animal secretions: Musk, ambergris, civet, etc.

Synthetic Ingredients

Synthetic ingredients are used to emulate scents that don't occur naturally or are difficult to obtain. Some common synthetic ingredients include:

• Aliphatic aldehydes
• Ambergris (synthetically reproduced)
• Musk (synthetically reproduced)
• Lily of the valley (synthetically reproduced)

Carrier Oils

Carrier oils are used to dilute concentrated oils and aromatics and to carry the scent of the cologne. Popular choices include:

• Jojoba oil
• Sweet almond oil
• Grape seed oil

Alcohol

Alcohol is used to extract scented oils from natural ingredients and as a base for the cologne. High-quality, high-proof alcohol is preferred. Some options include:

• Vodka
• Organic neutral grain alcohol
• Everclear (a grain spirit)

Water

Distilled or bottled water is used to dilute the cologne and help preserve the scent.

Glycerin

Glycerin is added to help extend the lifespan of the cologne and make it adhere better to the skin.

Glassware and Containers

You will need various types of glassware and containers for mixing, storing, and bottling your cologne:

• Glass jars for mixing
• Dark glass bottles for storing and bottling (dark glass helps protect the cologne from light)
• Droppers, funnels, and measuring cups/spoons

Other Materials

Other materials you may need include:

• Aluminum foil or wrapping paper (if using clear glass bottles)
• Coffee filters (for filtering the cologne before bottling)
• Vitamin E or grapefruit seed extract (optional, for extending the lifespan of the cologne)
• Beeswax (if you want to make a solid perfume)

Choose your scents

Choosing the right scent for your cologne is a highly personal process. It is important to remember that there is no one-size-fits-all approach, and you should select a fragrance that you truly love and that suits your personality and preferences.

A good starting point is to consider the scents you encounter in your daily life and identify the ones you enjoy. This could be the coconut shampoo at your gym, the fresh and green scent of your body wash, or even the tobacco in a cigarette. These familiar scents can serve as a great foundation for choosing a cologne. You can search for fragrances that include these notes or seek out similar categories of scents.

Another approach is to think about the mood or vibe you want to convey and select fragrances with core notes attached to those emotions. For example, if you want to feel comforted, a scent reminiscent of your mother's baking, such as tonka bean or vanilla, might be appealing. On the other hand, if you want to feel confident and put-together, you might opt for a classic aromatic fougère fragrance with notes like lavender, rosemary, or basil.

You can also consider the seasonality of your cologne. Warming notes like tobacco, leather, or spice are ideal for winter, while summer calls for green and aquatic notes. For fall, consider patchouli, musk, and vanilla, and for spring, opt for floral or citrus fragrances.

When selecting a scent, it is advisable to try before you buy. Sample a small amount of the cologne and assess how it interacts with your body chemistry and natural body odour. Remember that fragrance is highly subjective, and what smells amazing on one person may not have the same effect on another. Trust your instincts and choose a scent that resonates with you.

Additionally, you might want to consider the intensity of the cologne. Do you want a subtle fragrance that only you can detect, or do you prefer something stronger that leaves a scent trail? This decision will influence the concentration of perfume oil you choose, with options ranging from the lighter Eau Fraîche and Eau de Cologne to the stronger Eau de Parfum and Parfum.

Ultimately, choosing your cologne scent is a journey of discovery and experimentation. Don't be afraid to explore different options and trust your senses to guide you towards the perfect fragrance.

Blend the essential oils

Blending essential oils is the fun part of making cologne. It's time to "start playing around", as Carina Chaz, the founder and formulator of DedCool, says. Remember, not all notes will go well together, so this is where the trial and error come into play.

The ideal ratio for blending notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. However, you can experiment to find the formula that works for the type of profile you're trying to create.

When mixing a fragrance, first add your base notes, then your middle notes, then finally, your top notes.

Popular top notes:

• Basil
• Bergamot
• Grapefruit
• Lavender
• Lemon
• Lime
• Mint
• Neroli
• Rosemary
• Sweet orange

Popular middle notes:

• Black pepper
• Cardamom
• Chamomile
• Cinnamon
• Clove
• Fir needle
• Jasmine
• Juniper
• Lemongrass
• Neroli
• Nutmeg
• Rose
• Rosewood
• Ylang-ylang

Popular base notes:

• Cedarwood
• Cypress
• Ginger
• Patchouli
• Pine
• Sandalwood
• Vanilla
• Vetiver

Once you have your desired formula, add two ounces of alcohol.

According to Matthew Milèo, a chemist, and former in-house nose for Chanel, base notes like sandalwood, tonka bean, violet leaf, and vanilla blend well with middle notes like geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, and lotus flower. Top this formula off with lavender, neroli, magnolia, and mandarin, and your fragrance is worthy of signature scent status.

Now the cologne needs time to compose. Allow the fragrance to brew and sit for 48 hours. You can even refrigerate it for two weeks and then shake it up so that the molecules can mix.

Dilute the fragrance

Diluting the fragrance is the final step in the cologne-making process. Before dilution, the fragrance will be too strong and undiluted cologne can irritate the skin. Diluting the fragrance also allows the different scents, or notes, to blend together.

Diluting the fragrance involves adding alcohol and/or water. The ratio of alcohol to scent determines the perfume’s strength and worth. The more essential oil, the stronger (and more expensive) the cologne is. Eau de parfum will have a lower concentration of alcohol while body mists will have a much higher concentration of alcohol.

To dilute the fragrance, add two tablespoons of distilled/spring water to your mixture. If you are making a perfume spray, add more water. Then, add approximately five drops of glycerine. This helps preserve the fragrance.

Frequently asked questions