The Art Of Crafting Scents: Making Perfumes And Colognes

The process of creating perfumes and colognes involves a combination of art and science. The art of making perfume has evolved over the centuries, from the ancient Egyptians, who used scented oils and perfumes, to the modern-day use of synthetic chemicals to recreate natural scents. The basic process, however, remains largely unchanged: it involves collecting ingredients, extracting oils, blending, aging, and quality control.

The first step in creating a perfume or cologne is to gather raw materials, which can include flowers, fruits, spices, resins, leaves, gums, balsams, grasses, and even animal products like musk and ambergris. These ingredients are then used to extract the scented oils, either through natural methods like expression (squeezing the plants), distillation, enfleurage, or maceration, or chemical methods like solvent extraction.

Once the oils are extracted, they are blended according to a specific formula, which can take years to develop and may include hundreds of ingredients. Alcohol is then added to dilute the mixture, with the amount determining the type of fragrance. The higher the percentage of alcohol, the lighter the fragrance.

After blending, the perfume or cologne undergoes the aging process, where it is left undisturbed in a cool, dark area for several months to a year. This allows the alcohol and oils to permanently bond, creating a stronger scent. Finally, the fragrance undergoes quality control to ensure it meets health and safety standards before being sold to consumers.

The role of alcohol in perfume and cologne

Secondly, alcohol dilutes the fragrance. Many fragrance ingredients are too pungent or strong to be worn without dilution, and alcohol helps to tone down the fragrance, providing a subtle enhancement.

Thirdly, alcohol acts as a preservative, increasing the longevity of the fragrance. It slows down the evaporation of the fragrance oils, preventing them from flashing off too quickly. This is achieved through the use of monopropylene glycol, a co-solvent that allows the fragrance oils to be solubilised in the alcohol carrier.

Additionally, alcohol is crucial in the production process of perfumes and colognes. It is used to extract essential oils from plants through solvent extraction and maceration. In solvent extraction, flowers are soaked in alcohol, which extracts the essential oils. In maceration, warmed alcohol is used to soak up the flower fragrance.

Lastly, alcohol is necessary for the creation of sprayable perfumes and colognes. It allows the fragrance to be sprayed and quickly evaporates, leaving the scent on the skin.

Natural vs synthetic ingredients

The use of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumes and colognes has been a topic of discussion and debate. While some people prefer natural fragrances, others opt for synthetic options, and some choose a combination of both. Here is an in-depth look at the natural vs. synthetic ingredients debate:

Natural Ingredients

Natural fragrances contain ingredients derived solely from natural sources, typically a blend of essential oils and botanical extracts. Natural fragrances are often associated with health and wellness, as they are seen as pure plant extracts. However, it is important to use them with caution due to their potency, as natural materials are highly concentrated and packed with allergens. Additionally, natural fragrances may vary from batch to batch due to fluctuations in weather, growing conditions, and natural disasters.

The process of extracting natural oils is complex and can be costly and labour-intensive. One such method is enfleurage, which involves spreading flowers on grease-coated glass sheets and carefully layering them between wooden frames. The flowers can remain in this greasy mixture for several weeks, after which they are replaced with fresh petals. This process is repeated multiple times to achieve complete saturation of the essence.

Natural fragrances offer depth and interest to a scent and can have therapeutic effects on the body and mind. They provide a sense of comfort and well-being, as we tend to associate natural ingredients with health and purity. However, one of the main disadvantages of natural ingredients is their high allergenic potential, and they can be challenging to standardise, resulting in batch-to-batch variations. Natural fragrances also have shorter longevity on the skin due to the volatility of the materials. Furthermore, some natural ingredients may be endangered or sourced from politically sensitive regions, leading to ethical concerns and fluctuations in price and availability.

Synthetic Ingredients

Synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, are created in laboratories. While some people associate synthetic ingredients with harsh chemicals, it is important to note that the majority of these compounds are derived from nature and then isolated. Synthetic fragrances offer perfumers more control over the scent's performance and longevity. They can be modified to minimise allergens and standardised to ensure consistency in scent and long-lasting power.

The use of synthetic ingredients in perfumery began in the 19th century with the introduction of synthetic chemicals. The first synthetic perfume was nitrobenzene, created from nitric acid and benzene. This fragrance had aromatic top notes of almond and was commonly used in scented soaps.

One of the main advantages of synthetic ingredients is their ability to enhance the structure of a fragrance, providing longevity and ensuring the scent remains consistent. They can also be modified to reduce allergens and are generally more affordable than natural ingredients. However, one potential disadvantage is the lack of long-term safety data for newer molecules, as their safety profiles may change over time. Additionally, some synthetic materials may have biodegradability issues and be derived from non-sustainable petrochemicals.

Combining Natural and Synthetic Ingredients

Many respected fragrance houses are members of IFRA (the fragrance industry's self-regulating body), which strictly regulates the use of both natural and synthetic materials. To create safe and compliant fragrances, perfumers often combine natural and synthetic ingredients. This combination allows for the richness and depth provided by natural oils and absolutes, while synthetics add the structure that holds the scent together.

In conclusion, the choice between natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumes and colognes depends on personal preferences, desired effects, and sustainability considerations. While natural fragrances offer depth and therapeutic benefits, they may vary in consistency and have shorter longevity. On the other hand, synthetic fragrances provide consistency, longevity, and modified allergen profiles but may lack long-term safety data for certain molecules. Combining natural and synthetic ingredients is a popular approach that balances richness and structure in a fragrance.

Extraction methods

There are six methods by which oils are extracted from plants for use in perfumes: steam distillation, boiling, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression.

In the first method, steam distillation, steam is passed through the plant material, turning the essential oil into gas. The gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, and liquefied.

The boiling method involves placing flowers in water and boiling them to extract the oils.

Solvent extraction involves placing flowers in large rotating tanks and pouring benzene or petroleum ether over them, which extracts the essential oils. This causes the flower parts to dissolve, leaving a waxy material that contains the oil. The oil is then placed in ethyl alcohol, where it rises and heat is applied to evaporate the alcohol, leaving a high concentration of perfume oil.

Enfleurage is a costly and labour-intensive method that involves spreading flowers on grease-coated glass sheets, which are then carefully placed in tiers between wooden frames. The glass sheets are covered with highly purified and odourless vegetable or animal fat. The flower petals are pressed into the grease and left for a few weeks, after which they are removed by hand and replaced with fresh petals. This process is usually repeated several times before the essence is fully saturated.

Maceration is similar to enfleurage, except warmed fats are used to soak up the flower fragrance. The essential oils are then derived from the grease and fats that are dissolved in alcohol.

Expression is the oldest and easiest method of oil extraction, achieved by pressing, squeezing, or compressing peels of citrus fruits such as lemons and oranges. This method is only used for citrus fruits today due to the large amount of oil contained in their peels and the ease of growing and harvesting the fruits.

In modern perfumery, volatile solvent extraction is often used instead of enfleurage. This method involves dissolving the perfume of the plant in a solvent, which is then evaporated. The evaporation of the solvent reveals a liquid that dries into a fragrant wax called a "concrete". The concrete is then washed and purified with alcohol, resulting in a liquid product called an "absolute".

Another modern extraction method is supercritical fluid extraction, which uses supercritical CO2 as the extraction solvent. When carbon dioxide is put under high pressure at slightly above room temperature, it forms a supercritical fluid that can be used to extract hydrophobic aromatics from plant material. This process is identical to one of the techniques for making decaffeinated coffee.

Blending the ingredients

The process of blending involves mixing the base notes, middle notes, and top notes in the correct ratios. The base notes are the initial scent when you first apply the perfume, then the middle notes emerge, followed by the top notes. The fragrance is all about ratios, and the ratio of base, middle, and top notes will determine the type of profile you are trying to create. For example, a ratio of 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes is a good starting point for a beginner. However, you can experiment with different ratios to create a unique blend.

When blending the ingredients, it is important to remember that not all notes go together, so there will be some trial and error involved. It is recommended to use no more than 30 drops total, and if one scent is much stronger than the rest, use less. Once you have your desired formula, add alcohol to the blend.

After blending, the perfume needs to be diluted. This is done by adding distilled or spring water and glycerine to the blend. The glycerine helps to preserve the fragrance.

Once the perfume is blended and diluted, it is ready to be poured into the bottle. If using clear bottles, cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect the fragrance from light.

Aging the fragrance

Once you have created your fragrance, it is time to let it age. Place it in a cool, dark location for a minimum of 48 hours, up to a month. This process is called maturation. Aging your fragrance allows the scents to mingle and become stronger. The longer you leave it, the more the perfume will be able to develop a distinct top, central, and base note.

Maturation occurs immediately after the perfume concentrate has been completely diluted in alcohol, which may take up to a month. Aging occurs afterward for a period of several months to one year. It is a time in which the perfume is kept undisturbed in a cool, dark area, allowing for the permanent bonding of the alcohol and the essential oils.

During the aging process, a labile balance is achieved. An aged mixture is usually cooled and filtered before it is filled into flacons (bottles). By not exposing the perfume to oxygen and keeping it in the dark at low temperatures, the damaging effects of time are greatly reduced.

Once the aging process is complete, you may need to add a few more drops of scent to tweak the fragrance. You can then dilute the perfume with water and glycerine before pouring it into your bottle.

Frequently asked questions