Fragrance Testing: Animal Cruelty Or Necessary Evil?

Many people are against the use of animal testing for ethical reasons. The practice is common in the cosmetics industry, including for fragrances, and is seen as inhumane by many, including PETA. Animal testing is often performed on rabbits, rats, mice, and guinea pigs.

There are alternatives to animal testing, and many companies have instituted a permanent ban on the practice. However, there are currently no laws regulating the labelling of cruelty-free products. PETA has launched several resources to help shoppers identify animal-friendly products.

Some popular cruelty-free fragrances include Skylar, Phlur, and Pacifica.

Animal testing methods

One of the most common tests is the "Draize Eye/Skin" test, which involves smearing or dripping perfume onto the skin of rabbits to determine if it could irritate human skin. Similarly, potential harm to human eyes is detected by dripping perfume into the eyes of rabbits.

Another test involves toxicity examinations on rodents, which are performed either by inhalation or by force-feeding large doses of the ingredient to mice.

These tests are often deemed unnecessary, as there are now alternative testing options available.

Cruelty-free alternatives

There are many cruelty-free alternatives to fragrances that are tested on animals. Here are some options, ranging from affordable to high-end:

• Skylar: One of the few brands to be fully transparent about their ingredient list, with 20+ fragrances to choose from, including some unisex scents.
• Phlur: This brand creates fragrances that are greener and less toxic than traditional perfumes.
• Pacifica: Well-known for their makeup and skincare, Pacifica also offers a wide range of 100% vegan fragrances at affordable prices.
• NEST Fragrances: These high-quality and sophisticated scents are available at stores like Sephora. They also offer perfume oil which doesn't contain alcohol.
• Lush: In addition to their famous bath bombs, Lush offers a selection of spray and solid perfumes that are cruelty-free and alcohol-based.
• Pinrose: A fun and fearless brand with complex scents and playful branding.
• Le Labo: An indie darling of the fragrance world, Le Labo creates soulful and ethical scents, although their parent company is not cruelty-free.
• Abbott NYC: Inspired by natural landscapes, Abbott NYC's fragrances capture the essence of discovery.
• The 7 Virtues: This brand offers fragrances that tell stories of peace, love, and empowerment.
• Floral Street: With an eye for sustainability, Floral Street is changing the game with flower-powered fragrances.
• D.S. and Durga: This company creates fragrances in small batches using premium-sourced raw materials.
• By Rosie Jane: Capturing moments, memories, and feelings, By Rosie Jane takes everyday simplicity and distills it into scents.
• Molton Brown: With vibrant and sophisticated scents, Molton Brown has a strong commitment to cruelty-free practices, although their parent company is not cruelty-free.

Animal testing in the US

Animal testing for cosmetics in the US is not legally required. The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), prohibits the sale of mislabelled and "adulterated" cosmetics, but does not require that animal tests be conducted to demonstrate that the cosmetics are safe.

The FDA advises cosmetic manufacturers to employ whatever testing is appropriate and effective for substantiating the safety of their products. It remains the responsibility of the manufacturer to substantiate the safety of both ingredients and finished cosmetic products before marketing. Animal testing may be used to establish product safety, particularly if alternative methods are deemed insufficient.

In all cases where animal testing is used, the FDA advocates that research and testing derive the maximum amount of useful scientific information from the minimum number of animals and employ the most humane methods available within the limits of scientific capability. The FDA also supports the development and use of alternatives to whole-animal testing.

In 2024, the FDA began implementing a reorganisation impacting many parts of the agency, including the Product Testing of Cosmetics division.

There are thousands of cruelty-free brands that do not test their finished products, formulations, or ingredients on animals. However, there are currently no laws in place that regulate the labelling of cruelty-free products.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has launched several resources as part of the "Caring Consumer" program, to help shoppers identify animal-friendly products. PETA has also launched an iPhone app to help consumers easily locate cruelty-free products.

In the US, twelve states have passed laws banning the sale of animal-tested cosmetics: California, Hawai'i, Illinois, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Virginia, and Washington.

Animal testing in the EU

Animal testing for cosmetics was banned in the EU in 2013. However, this does not mean that the perfumes available in the EU market today do not contain ingredients that were tested on animals before the ban. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) provides opinions on the safety and allergenic properties of cosmetic products and ingredients, and takes action and makes recommendations to the EU Commission based on the data received from the International Fragrance Association (IFRA).

In 2021, China lifted the animal testing requirement for all imported brands and goods. However, some fragrance brands are still considered not cruelty-free because they may have been tested on animals before the requirement was lifted. Additionally, new chemical raw materials may still require animal testing for approval due to work safety reasons.

Animal testing in China

According to China's animal testing laws, there are two types of cosmetics: General Cosmetics and Special Cosmetics. General Cosmetics include makeup, skincare, hair care products, nail polish, and perfumes, while Special Cosmetics are products that make functional claims, such as hair dyes, sunscreens, whitening products, and anti-hair loss treatments. Animal testing is required for Special Cosmetics sold in China, but not for General Cosmetics.

Even though some cosmetics may be exempt from animal testing, it is still challenging for brands to navigate China's complex regulations. Companies must jump through hoops and meet stringent criteria to qualify for an exemption. As a result, only a handful of brands have been able to sell their products in China while maintaining their cruelty-free status. These brands have been transparent about the steps they have taken to ensure that their products are not tested on animals.

It is worth noting that animal testing for cosmetics in China has not been banned or made illegal. Companies or suppliers can still choose to conduct animal tests if they wish. Therefore, it is crucial for consumers who want to avoid supporting animal testing to be cautious and well-informed about the brands they purchase from.

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