Creating Unique Scents For Candles: A Beginner's Guide

Creating fragrances for candles is a complex process that requires a good understanding of scent notes and blending. The top notes of a fragrance are those that you smell first, usually lighter scents such as citrus or soft florals. Middle notes, or the heart of the fragrance, provide a balance and are often bright florals, gourmands, fruits, or lighter woods. Base notes are the deepest scents that linger, such as vanilla, spices, musk, woods, or amber. When creating a fragrance, it's important to consider how these notes combine to form a unique scent profile.

There are two main types of fragrances used in candle-making: regular and ultra. Regular fragrances are compatible with all wax types and typically have a lower throw strength, while ultra fragrances offer a more premium and sophisticated scent with a stronger throw. The percentage of fragrance added to the candle mixture is important, with most waxes unable to hold more than 12% fragrance. Store-bought candles usually contain around 6%, while premium candles can have up to 10%.

Blending fragrances is a creative process that allows you to experiment and develop your own unique scents. It's important to start with familiar fragrances and understand how they perform in terms of cold and hot throws. Using blotter strips is a simple way to test different combinations and train your nose to identify the notes. Fragrance blending wheels can also provide guidance and inspiration by suggesting complementary and kindred notes.

Making your own fragrance oils at home is possible but challenging. It requires equipment such as a steam distillation kit and a good understanding of perfumery, as well as compliance with regulations, especially in the UK and EU.

How to Make Fragrances for Candles

Choosing a fragrance oil

Fragrance notes refer to the different scents that make up a fragrance, and they are categorised into top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial aromas you smell, usually lighter fragrances such as soft florals or citrus. Middle notes, or the "heart" of the fragrance, provide balance and are often bright florals, gourmands, fruits, or light woods. Base notes are the deepest scents that linger, such as vanilla, spices, musks, or amber. When blending fragrances, aim for a combination of these notes to create a complex and well-rounded scent.

When choosing fragrance oils, it's best to start with familiar scents and stick to basic fragrances while learning the process. You can then experiment with different combinations, such as complementary or kindred notes on a fragrance blending wheel. Complementary notes, such as fruity and aromatic or spicy and floral, create a complex and well-balanced fragrance. Kindred notes, like woody and aromatic, result in a harmonic and familiar blend.

Additionally, consider the quality and strength of the fragrance oil. Regular fragrances are typically compatible with most wax types and are suitable for natural soy/coconut wax blends or paraffin. Ultra fragrances, on the other hand, offer stronger throw strength and a more premium scent, enhancing the overall quality of the candle.

Finally, pay attention to the flashpoint of the fragrance oil, especially if you're making gel candles. The flashpoint is the temperature at which the oil becomes combustible when exposed to a spark or flame. For safety, it is recommended to use fragrances with a flashpoint above 175ºF (80ºC) for gel candles.

Understanding top, middle, and base notes

Creating a robust and well-balanced fragrance is an art and a science. The fragrance notes—top, middle, and base—are the building blocks of a good scent.

Top notes, also known as head notes, are the first impression of a scent. They are usually fresh, sharp, and elevating. Their smaller molecules mean they evaporate quickly, giving way to the middle notes. Examples of top notes include bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, sage, and lavender.

Middle notes, or heart notes, form the foundation of the fragrance. They are revealed once the top notes fade and often make up between 40-80% of the entire aroma. These notes are more complex than top notes and act as a buffer for the base notes. Middle notes are well-rounded and pleasant, with a longer-lasting aroma. Examples include lavender, pine, black pepper, jasmine, and cinnamon.

Base notes, also referred to as dry notes, are deep, rich, and calming. They have the largest molecules and evaporate slowly, lingering long after the other notes have faded. These notes provide complexity and depth to the scent. Examples of base notes include amber, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, and musk.

The key to creating a balanced fragrance is to include notes from each category. This will make the aroma more complex and thoughtfully crafted. The general guideline for a balanced blend is to use 5-10% base notes, 20-40% top notes, and 50-75% middle notes. However, this is not an exact science, and experimentation is encouraged.

Blending fragrances

Understanding Fragrance Notes:

Fragrances are described in terms of top notes, middle notes, and base notes, which combine to create a unique scent profile. Top notes are the initial aromas you smell, usually lighter and citrusy or soft florals. Middle notes, or the "heart," balance the other notes and are often bright florals, gourmands, fruits, or lighter woods. Base notes are the deepest notes that linger, such as vanilla, spices, musks, woods, or amber.

Choosing Scents for Blending:

When blending fragrances, it's best to start with familiar scents and stick to basic fragrances for easier results. However, if you want to experiment, try combining a complex fragrance with simpler ones. Some popular scents for blending include lavender, tomato leaf, sandalwood, rosemary sage, and grapefruit.

Blending Techniques:

One method for blending is to use blotter strips. Dip the blotter into the fragrance bottles, allowing more of the fragrance you want to be more prominent. Let the strips dry, then fan them under your nose to get an impression of the blend. Take notes on your combinations, ratios, and whether you want to make adjustments.

Another technique is to use cotton swabs and small glass jars. Dip clean cotton swabs into different fragrance oils, ensuring equal amounts, and place them in the jar. Let the jar mature in a cool, dark place for a few hours, then smell the blend and make adjustments as needed.

Creating Custom Blends:

You can create unique fragrance blends by combining different notes. Complementary notes, found on opposite sides of a fragrance wheel, result in complex and well-balanced fragrances. For example, fruity and aromatic, spicy and floral, or gourmand and citrus blends. Kindred notes, found next to each other on the wheel, create harmonic blends with recognisable notes.

Safety and Testing:

When blending fragrances, it's important to consider safety, especially when working with fragrance oils. Fragrance flashpoint, or the temperature at which the oil becomes combustible, is crucial. Fragrances with a flashpoint above 175°F are recommended for candles. Always follow safety guidelines and run burn tests to ensure your candles are safe.

Additionally, the percentage of fragrance added to the candle mixture is important. Most waxes can hold up to 12% fragrance, but premium candles typically use 6% to 10%. To calculate the amount needed, multiply the wax weight by the desired percentage.

Lastly, when adding fragrance to the wax, maintain a temperature between 175°F to 185°F. Remove the wax from the heat source before adding the fragrance to avoid degradation and loss of scent throw.

Adding fragrance to wax

Choosing the Right Fragrance

The first step is to select the type of fragrance you want to use. You can choose from essential oils, fragrance oils, or even create your own blends. When choosing a fragrance, consider the notes that will combine to create the unique profile of your candle. Top notes are the initial aromas you smell, typically light and citrusy or soft florals. Middle notes, or the "heart," balance the fragrance and are usually bright florals, gourmands, fruits, or lighter woods. Base notes are the deepest part of the fragrance and tend to linger, including scents like vanilla, spices, musks, woods, or amber.

Amount of Fragrance to Use

The amount of fragrance you should use depends on the type of wax and the desired strength of the scent. Most waxes cannot hold more than 12% fragrance. Store-bought candles typically contain around 6%, while premium candles can have up to 10%. As a rule of thumb, use between 6% and 10% fragrance to optimise scent throw without compromising candle stability. To calculate the amount precisely, multiply the percentage by the weight of the wax. For example, for a 10-ounce soy wax candle with a 10% fragrance, you would need 1 ounce of fragrance.

When to Add Fragrance

The ideal temperature for adding fragrance to wax is between 175°F and 185°F (79°C and 85°C). At this temperature range, the wax is hot enough to fully expand, but not too hot that the fragrance degrades and loses its potency. It is important to remove the wax from the heat source before adding the fragrance to avoid overheating.

Blending Fragrances

If you want to create your own fragrance blends, you can experiment with different combinations of essential or fragrance oils. Start by examining individual components and noting their longevity to determine if they are top, middle, or base notes. Aim for a blend that includes at least one of each type of note. Alternatively, you can choose oils that you think will complement each other. Use small glass jars with airtight lids and cotton swabs to test your blends, allowing the scents to mature over a few hours or days before making adjustments.

Safety Considerations

When working with fragrance oils, it is important to consider safety. Fragrance oils have a flashpoint, which is the temperature at which they become combustible if exposed to a spark or flame. Use a candle-making thermometer to monitor the wax temperature and add the fragrance at the appropriate temperature to prevent combustion. For fragrances with a flashpoint below 130°F, add them to the wax at 130°F. For those between 130°F and 180°F, add them at their flashpoint. If the flashpoint is above 180°F, add the fragrance at 180°F.

Testing and troubleshooting

When testing your fragrance blends, it's important to keep a few key factors in mind. Firstly, the type of wax you use will impact the fragrance load, with most waxes unable to hold more than 12% fragrance. Store-bought candles typically contain around 6% fragrance, while premium candles can contain up to 10%. Therefore, it's recommended to use between 6 and 10% fragrance in your candle mixture to optimise scent throw without compromising stability.

Another important consideration is the flashpoint of the fragrance oil, which is the temperature at which the oil becomes combustible if exposed to a spark or flame. For gel candles, a lower flashpoint can restrict shipping options due to the increased fire hazard. It is recommended to use fragrance oils with a flashpoint above 175°F (80°C) for gel candles, and there are specific guidelines for adding fragrance oils based on their flashpoint. If the flashpoint is under 130°F, add the oil to the wax at 130°F; if it's between 130°F and 180°F, add it at the oil's flashpoint; and if it's above 180°F, add it to the wax at 180°F.

When testing your fragrance blends, it's a good idea to start with simple, familiar scents and work your way up to more complex combinations. Blotter strips are a quick and easy way to test different combinations and train your nose to identify different notes. Dip the blotter strip into the fragrance bottle, allowing more of the strip to absorb the fragrance if you want a stronger presence. Allow the strip to dry for about 10 seconds, then fan it under your nose to get a good impression of the blend. Take detailed notes on your impressions, including the scent combinations, ratios, and whether you tested the blend in a candle.

It's also important to let your fragrance blends mature before making a final assessment. Place the lid on the jar and leave it in a cool, dark place for a few hours or up to 48 hours, then smell the blend again. The scents should have mixed and matured, giving you a better idea of the final product. You can then make corrections to the blend, adjusting the ratios of different oils until you achieve the perfect combination.

Finally, once you're happy with your blend, test it in a candle or soap to see how it performs. Take notes on your observations so that you can make any necessary adjustments for future batches.

Frequently asked questions