Katrina Rosales
Russian Leather by Memo Paris is a fragrance for women and men that was launched in 2016. It is a leather aromatic fragrance with top notes of mint, clary sage, cedar needle, Siberian pine, and coriander. The scent is described as cold and reminiscent of a coniferous forest. Krasnaya Moskva, or Red Moscow, is another Russian perfume that gained popularity during the socialist era and is considered the first Soviet-created perfume. It features a heavy carnation base with a lemony coriander twist and warm and cool notes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Brand | Memo Paris |
| Fragrance | Leather |
| Perfumer | Aliénor Massenet |
| Fragrance Family | Chypre |
| Fragrance Type | Aromatic |
| Fragrance Layer | Base |
| Top Notes | Mint, clary sage, cedar needle, Siberian pine, coriander |
| Middle Notes | Basil, lavender, rosemary |
| Base Notes | Leather, tonka bean, fern |
| Longevity | 4-6 hours |
| Year of Launch | 2016 |
| Season | Fall and Winter |
| Application Points | Wrists, behind earlobes, inside of elbows, and the nape |
| Perfumer's Notes | An evening stroll through town streets full of fresh florals and well-spiced edible wares |
| User's Notes | A coniferous forest, with individual notes of pine, mint, rosemary, cypress, and basil |
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What You'll Learn
Russian Leather Memo Paris perfume
Russian Leather is a fragrance by Memo Paris, launched in 2016 for women and men. It is described by Memo Paris as the scent of a "frozen fern", reminiscent of a winter forest in Russia. The fragrance is said to be a blend of leather accord with the freshness of juniper berries and green mate absolute.
The nose behind this fragrance is Alienor Massenet. Russian Leather uses high-quality ingredients like basil oil, cedar leaf oil, Siberian pine needle oil, lavender, mint, rosemary oil, patchouli oil, and cypress absolute. The scent is described as cold and coniferous, with notes of pine, mint, rosemary, cypress, and basil. Some reviewers note a sharp twist of citrus, which might come from the sage and coriander. The perfume is long-lasting, with moderate projection and good longevity of at least 6 hours.
Russian Leather is part of Memo Paris' leather series, which includes other fragrances like African Leather, Ocean Leather, Italian Leather, and Iberian Leather. The fragrance is described as a woody-aromatic fougère with a subdued leather accord. It is a smooth, soft, and creamy fragrance with notes of musk and powder. The scent is said to be year-round but exceptional in the fall and winter.
Russian Leather is an intense and bold fragrance, inspired by the beauty of the northern realms, with their rich plant life and icy landscapes. It is a unique and captivating scent that combines leather with spicy and green accords, evoking warm memories of being out near a forest during the cooler months.
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Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow)
Krasnaya Moskva, or 'Red Moscow' in English, is a Soviet-created perfume for women. It was the first fragrance of its kind and was launched in 1925 by Novaya Zarya ('The New Dawn'), a perfume and cosmetics factory in Moscow, Russia.
The origins of Krasnaya Moskva are disputed, with some believing it was created before the Russian Revolution of 1917. One theory suggests that it was originally known as 'Le Bouquet Préféré de l'Impératrice' or 'The Empress' Favorite Bouquet' in English. This fragrance was created in 1913 at the Brocard's factory in Moscow. However, others claim that Krasnaya Moskva was created after the factory was nationalised and renamed Novaya Zarya in 1922.
The perfume has top notes of coriander, orange blossom, and bergamot, with middle notes of carnation, ylang-ylang, jasmine, and rose. The base notes are iris, vanilla, and tonka bean. It is described as having a "thin, warm, noble aroma with a tinge of orange blossom". The scent is said to evoke feelings of "elegant warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodious, [and] plastic melodiousness".
Krasnaya Moskva became very popular in the Soviet Union and, after World War II, gained popularity throughout the Eastern Bloc. It is still produced today by the Novaya Zarya factory in Moscow and is known for its long-lasting smell and heavy sillage. The fragrance is sold in 42ml "splash" bottles without atomisers, as well as in eau de cologne form in hexagonal-shaped 85ml bottles.
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Chypre fragrances
Floris London offers a range of chypre perfumes that blend rich bergamot, oakmoss, and patchouli. Their Edwardian Bouquet fragrance opens with sparkling citrus notes of bergamot and mandarin, combined with a green accord and hyacinth. The heart reveals a bouquet of flowers, including jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang, with a base of warm amber, musk, and earthy oakmoss and patchouli notes.
Russian Leather has been described as a high-quality fragrance with moderate projection and good longevity, lasting at least six hours. While some appreciate its unique combination of leather and green sweetness, others find it too fresh and not leathery enough. Overall, it is a captivating scent that conjures images of a coniferous forest, with individual notes of pine, mint, rosemary, cypress, and basil.
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Soviet-created perfumes
The first Soviet-created perfume was Krasnaya Moskva, or Red Moscow, which was also the most popular perfume in the USSR. It was created by a man named August Michel, who later became part of the team that created Chanel No. 5. Red Moscow is described as having an elegant warmth and a playful and flirtatious languor. It is a chypre fragrance with more than 60 components, including orange blossom, iris, violet, carnation, and jasmine essence.
The New Dawn perfume factory, which has been operating in Russia for over 100 years, produced Red Moscow and other famous Soviet fragrances such as Scythian Gold and Kuznetsky Bridge. These perfumes were available in shops at very low prices.
Another well-known Soviet perfume was Troynoy (Triple), an eau-de-cologne for men that was Stalin's favourite fragrance. It was also used for a variety of other purposes, including as an aftershave and for treating cuts.
Silver Lily-of-the-Valley was a more affordable and everyday scent, with a sweet, fresh, and reliable aroma. It had a high alcohol content, which allowed people to mix their own cocktails with it.
Perfumes played a significant role in Soviet culture and ideology. They were an essential part of the second five-year plan from 1933-1937, which focused on consumer goods and social progress. The mass production and distribution of perfumes and other cosmetics also democratised access to these goods for women, who previously could only access them if they were from wealthy families.
Special editions of perfumes were also produced to celebrate Soviet successes, such as the kolkhoz, or collective farm.
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High-quality Russian perfumery factories
Russia has a rich history of perfumery, with several high-quality factories contributing to its fragrance culture. Here is an overview of some prominent Russian perfumery factories known for their quality offerings:
Brocard & Co.
Brocard & Co., founded in 1864 in Moscow by Henri Brocard, the son of French perfumer Athanas Brocard, is one of the most important perfume producers in Russian history. The company started by producing inexpensive soaps, but by the beginning of the 20th century, it had become the biggest perfume producer in the Russian Empire and was even famous in Europe. After the Revolution of 1917, Brocard & Co. was nationalized and restarted its perfumery production under the brand name Novaya Zarya in 1922. The company launched iconic fragrances like Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow) in 1924 or 1925, reflecting patriotism and important occasions in Soviet history. Today, Novaya Zarya produces perfumes under the brand Nouvelle Etoile.
A. Rallet & Co.
A. Rallet & Co. was another significant perfume factory in Russia, founded in Moscow in 1843. The factory was eventually headed by Edouard Beaux, whose son Ernest Beaux went on to create the legendary Chanel No. 5. After the Russian Revolution, the factory was nationalized and renamed, but it continued to play a vital role in the country's perfumery landscape.
Alexander Ostroumov and Carl Ferrein:
Two other prominent perfumery companies in Russia were founded by world-renowned cosmetologist Alexander Ostroumov and pharmacologist Carl Ferrein, who founded the biggest apothecary in Europe in 1862.
These perfumeries, among others, have contributed to Russia's fragrance culture and history, offering high-quality perfumes that have captivated locals and foreigners alike.
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Frequently asked questions
Russian Leather is a unisex perfume by Memo Paris, launched in 2016.
Russian Leather combines leather with spicy and green accords, including notes of pine, mint, rosemary, cypress, and basil.
Russian Leather lasts between four and six hours, with moderate projection and good longevity.
You can buy Russian Leather perfume online from retailers such as Perfume.com and Fragrantica.com.
