Lance Carson
Fragrances are a combination of organic compounds that produce a distinct smell or odour. They are typically a mixture of fragrant essential oils, aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents, used to give an agreeable scent to the human body, animals, food, objects, and living spaces. The art of perfumery has a rich history, with ancient texts and archaeological excavations showing the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery, which began in the late 19th century, has allowed for the creation of a wide range of fragrances, from lightweight eau de colognes to more intense parfums. However, it is important to note that fragrances can cause adverse health effects, with studies reporting that one-third of the general population experiences negative reactions to fragranced products.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | A combination of organic compounds that produces a distinct smell or odour |
| Composition | Fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives, solvents, and artificial mixtures of aromatic chemicals |
| Types | Parfum or extrait, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne |
| Health Effects | Can cause contact allergic dermatitis, asthma flares, and skin irritation |
| History | Ancient texts and archaeological excavations suggest use in earliest human civilizations; modern perfumery began in the late 19th century |
| Classification | Single floral, citrus, spicy, etc. |
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What You'll Learn
Fragrances are a combination of organic compounds
The collection stage involves obtaining initial ingredients from various plant substances and the fatty extracts of animal products. Distillation is the most common extraction method, where the material is heated to high temperatures and condensed into gas to release the desired essential oils, which are then cooled and liquefied. Water distillation is more effective for delicate materials, where the plant material is placed into boiling water. Solvent extraction is another method, although it is becoming less common due to its cost and time-consuming nature. In this process, the material is added to a solvent, creating a waxy aromatic compound that is then mixed with alcohol to release the essential oils.
Organic chemists are responsible for crafting complex mixtures of organic molecules to achieve the desired scents. They study the relationship between molecular structure and function, similar to drug discovery chemists. For example, they can understand the effect of moving just one functional group. Hedione, for instance, has two naturally occurring isomers, with only one being active as a perfume additive.
Perfumes are composed of three structural parts: the head, middle, and base notes. The head note, or top note, provides the initial scent that forms the first impression of the perfume. It is composed of small, light molecules with a strong, fresh scent that evaporates quickly, usually within 5–30 minutes after application. Common top notes include citrus (lemon, orange), light fruits (berries), and herbs (sage, lavender). The middle note, or heart note, masks any unpleasant initial impression of the base note and provides the main body of the scent. It is composed of more complex molecules with a more mellow, rounded, and balancing scent. The base note provides the lasting impression of the fragrance.
Perfumes are classified into five main groups based on their concentration of aromatic compounds. Parfum or extrait has the highest concentration at 20–30%, making it the most expensive and longest-lasting option. Eau de parfum or parfum de toilette has a concentration of 15–20%, while eau de toilette has a lower concentration of 5–15%. Eau de cologne has the lowest concentration of 2–4%, with a very light formulation that lasts about 2 hours.
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Fragrances are classified into groups based on concentration
Fragrances are classified into groups based on their concentration, which determines the intensity and longevity of the scent. The concentration of oils in a perfume also influences how expensive it is. Perfumes can be classified into five main categories based on concentration:
Parfum or Extrait
Parfum has a high concentration of fragrance, typically ranging from 20% to 30%. Due to this high concentration, parfum is usually heavier and oilier than other types of perfumes, and it tends to be used more sparingly. It is also the most expensive type of perfume. Parfum lasts the longest, usually around 6-8 hours or more on the skin, and has a strong, intense scent.
Eau de Parfum or Parfum de Toilet
Eau de parfum has a slightly lower concentration of fragrance, ranging from 15% to 20%. It is a lighter product with a shorter duration, lasting around 4 to 6 hours. Eau de parfum is the most common fragrance type and is the base for other fragrance types. It is also more affordable than parfum. Eau de parfum contains a greater concentration of alcohol and water, which makes it a good choice for those seeking a balance between strength and affordability.
Eau de Toilette
Eau de toilette has a lower concentration of fragrance, ranging from 5% to 15%. It has a low concentration of essential oils and a high concentration of alcohol, which makes it dissipate quickly. This type of fragrance usually lasts for 2 to 3 hours and is a cheaper option often used for daywear.
Eau de Cologne
Eau de cologne has a very low concentration of fragrance, with only 2% to 4% essential oils. It is primarily used in fragrances designed for men as an aftershave or splash-on scent. This type of fragrance is light and dissipates quickly, lasting about 1-2 hours.
Eau Fraiche
Eau Fraiche is the lightest fragrance type, with only 1% to 2% essential oils. It has a very low alcohol content, making it more water-based. This light fragrance usually lasts less than an hour and is perfect for those who prefer a subtle scent.
In addition to these five main categories, it is worth noting that perfumes can also be classified in other ways, such as by brand, scent, or ingredients. For example, designer perfumes are created by well-known fashion houses or luxury brands, while niche perfumes are crafted by smaller, independent perfume houses that focus on unique or unconventional scents. Understanding the different fragrance classifications can help individuals make more informed choices when selecting a perfume that suits their style and personality.
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Fragrances can cause adverse health effects
In fact, studies have shown that one-third of the general population experiences adverse health effects from fragranced products. These effects can include asthma flares, allergic contact dermatitis, and irritant contact dermatitis. The latter is caused by repeated or excessive exposure to irritating chemicals in fragrances, resulting in localized erythema, dry cracked skin, and even blisters and erosions in severe cases. Allergic contact dermatitis, on the other hand, can occur after just one exposure, with symptoms similar to irritant contact dermatitis but requiring only tiny quantities of the allergen.
Additionally, fragrance chemicals can interfere with the neuroendocrine-immune axis, potentially promoting cancer and developmental problems. Parabens, for instance, have been shown to have more severe effects on young children due to their still-developing immune systems. Exposure to chemicals during early development can disrupt normal growth patterns. Gender is also a factor, with women being more likely to suffer from the effects of using fragrance products.
The risk of adverse health effects is not limited to direct exposure. Even fragrances that are slowly diffused, such as candles and essential oils, can pose risks, although they are generally considered better options for home fragrance. The concentration of fragrances and associated VOCs (volatile organic compounds) in indoor air may cause adverse cutaneous, respiratory, and systemic effects, including headaches, asthma attacks, breathing difficulties, cardiovascular and neurological problems, and more.
It is worth noting that while fragrance-related health issues are a concern, appropriate everyday exposure to fragrances is typically not a health issue for people without underlying diseases. However, it is always a good idea to be cautious and aware of the potential risks associated with fragranced products.
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Fragrance families are a starting point for description
Fragrance families are a great starting point when searching for a new scent. They can help you understand the different types of fragrances and how they are related to each other. The fragrance classification system was developed by fragrance expert Michael Edwards, who introduced the Fragrance Wheel. The wheel is a circular diagram that displays the different scent families and subfamilies, with the families that share common olfactory characteristics placed next to one another. The subfamilies that are side by side on the wheel are most similar and therefore very likely to blend well together in a perfume.
There are four main scent families: woody, floral, amber, and fresh. The floral scent family is one of the most common and is used in many well-known perfumes. They usually smell like fresh-cut flowers or have a powdery note and are perfect for spring and summertime. The amber scent family, previously known as "oriental", includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes. Amber scents are often described as “sensual,” warm, and “exotic.” The woody family includes warm and opulent scents, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes such as cedar. The fresh family is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed by underlying woody notes.
Male fragrances can be divided into several different families, with the four most common being Citrus, Fougere, Oriental, and Chypre. Fougere fragrances are one of the most popular men's families and often contain lavender and oakmoss. Feminine fragrances have extra floral categories and do not feature as many Fougere-style fragrances.
Perfumes are composed of three structural parts: the head, middle, and base notes. The head note provides the initial scent that forms the first impression of the perfume and usually lasts 5–30 minutes after application. Common top notes include citrus, light fruits, and herbs. The middle note, or heart note, masks any unpleasant initial impression of the base note and provides the main body of the scent. It is more mellow, rounded, and balancing.
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Ancient civilisations used fragrances
The use of fragrances dates back to ancient civilisations, with archaeologists finding evidence of perfume's use across the ancient world, often in intricate perfume vessels. Ancient Egypt is often regarded as the birthplace of perfumery, with scents deeply intertwined with religious rituals. The Egyptians associated their perfumes with their gods, believing fragrances to be the sweat of the sun god, Ra. Perfumes like Kyphi, a blend of honey, myrrh, and resins, were used to honour the gods and purify spaces. Frankincense and myrrh were among the most prized ingredients, symbolising divinity and eternal life. These components were burned as incense or infused into oils for anointing.
In ancient Greece, wearing a sweet-smelling fragrance was also considered pleasing to the gods. Greek philosophers, including Theophrastus, documented the art and science of perfumery, analysing the properties of various plants and their aromatic potentials. Greek medical thinkers of the time practised an ancient form of aromatherapy, finding certain smells to improve health and vitality. Theophrastus's 'On Odours' describes the perfume-making process of his time, noting that the Greeks used various types of oils as the "vehicle" of perfumes. They would use odourless oils, such as Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil, or olive oil derived from "raw" and "coarse" olives, as the oil they produce is the least greasy and coarse. Greek perfumers used Mediterranean ingredients like oregano, marjoram, and violet, as well as spices, florals, and resins. Rose was a common ingredient, described by Pliny the Elder as "a flower that grows everywhere", with a light and less powerful scent. Other common florals included iris and lily, while herbs and spices included saffron, cardamom, and marjoram.
The Romans, influenced by the ancient Egyptians and Greeks, elevated perfume use to unprecedented levels of luxury. They imported exotic ingredients from across their territories, including spices, resins, and flowers. Perfumes were a staple in Roman baths, where scented oils and waters were used for cleansing and rejuvenation. Unisex fragrances were prominent, with both men and women indulging in elaborate scents to signify wealth and sophistication. The Romans also innovated in packaging and distribution, developing amphorae to store and transport perfumes.
Other ancient cultures that prized fragrances include the ancient Iranians and the ancient Chinese, who used scent in the form of incense.
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Frequently asked questions
Eau de Papyrus.
Essential oil.
Perfumers (or noses).
Oceanic.
Blend or accord.
