Cologne's Favorite Beer: A Local's Perspective

In Cologne, Germany, the local brew is called Kölsch, and it is beloved by the citizens of the city. Kölsch is a clear, light, and crisp lager that is typically served in small .2L glasses. It is a type of ale that is warm-fermented with top-fermenting yeast and then conditioned at cold temperatures like a lager. Since 1997, the term Kölsch has had a protected geographical indication within the European Union, meaning it must be brewed within 30-50 miles of the city. Some of the most popular breweries in Cologne include Früh, Gaffel, Reissdorf, and Päffgen.

The history of Kölsch beer

Kölsch is a clear, light, and crisp lager with a unique flavour profile that has been perfected by generations of brewers. It is warm-fermented with top-fermenting yeast and then conditioned at cold temperatures, resulting in a quintessential beer. The people of Cologne take immense pride in their Kölsch, and rightfully so, as it is the only beer in Germany with a special protected geographical status, akin to Champagne in France.

To be officially recognised as Kölsch, the beer must adhere to specific regulations. Firstly, it must be brewed according to the Kölsch Konvention, put forth by the members of the Köln Brewery Association. Secondly, it must be crafted following the Reinheitsgebot, or German purity law. Lastly, the brewery must be located within 30 miles of Cologne; historically, the brewery had to be within sight of the spires of the city's cathedral.

The culture of Kölsch extends beyond the beverage itself. In Cologne, "Kölsch" also refers to the local dialect, humour, and people. There is a saying in the city: "Kölsch is the only culture that you can drink." The drinking of Kölsch is surrounded by traditions and rituals, and the service in a traditional Kölsch brauhaus tends to be standoffish, which is considered normal and part of the experience.

The servers in a Kölsch brauhaus are known as "Köbes," and they take their job very seriously. They are professional and efficient, managing numerous tables with short visits to swap out empty glasses and mark down tallies. Kölsch is always served in small 0.2L glasses called "Stange," ensuring the beer stays cold throughout the drinking session. The glasses are made of thin glass, and it is customary to clink glasses from the bottom rather than the top due to the tapered top.

The Kölsch brauhaus culture is an integral part of the social fabric of Cologne, and the beer's history is deeply rooted in the city's identity.

Where to drink Kölsch in Cologne

• Gaffel am Dom - This huge brauhaus is located right across the street from the famous Cologne cathedral and the city's main train station. The Kölsch here is crisp and delicious, and the food is amazing.
• Peters Brauhaus - This brauhaus is located in the center of Köln’s old town and is super easy to find. The Kölsch here is the best the author has had in Cologne, and the atmosphere is jovial.
• Brauerei zur Malzmühle - This 150-year-old brewery is located in the heart of Cologne's old town and is famous for its regional cuisine and hearty beers. Former President Bill Clinton visited the pub when he was in Cologne for a conference.
• Brauhaus Sünner im Walfisch - This historic, 1600s beer hall is located in Cologne's Old Town and serves its own house-brewed Kölsch. It has a relaxed and inviting atmosphere that makes it a great place to stop by for drinks or dinner.
• Brauhaus FRÜH am Dom - This Cologne beer hall is a popular spot for old-world German cuisine and beers. It has tons of old-world memorabilia, fresh Kolsch beers, as well as a cosy beer garden to the rear.

The best Kölsch breweries

Kölsch is a style of beer originating in Cologne, Germany. It is a clear, light, and crisp lager, typically served in small .2L glasses. It is warm-fermented with top-fermenting yeast and then conditioned at cold temperatures like a lager.

Früh

Früh is one of the most popular breweries in Cologne, with a well-rounded Kölsch beer. The main Früh brauhaus is located opposite the Cologne Cathedral, with a view of the landmark. The beer at Früh is slightly more malty and has a more pronounced hop flavour than other Kölsch varieties, making it very easy to drink. The food served is also highly regarded, offering iconic German and Cologne cuisine.

Reissdorf

Reissdorf is another of the big three Kölsch breweries, alongside Früh and Gaffel. It is the most well-known outside of Cologne and has a slightly maltier and heavier taste with a great hoppy finish. The malts have a more toasted flavour, giving the beer a broader malt flavour and more body. It can be found throughout the town in bars and stores, but there is no dedicated brauhaus in the Cologne Old Town.

Gaffel

Gaffel is the third of the big three Kölsch breweries. Their Kölsch is very clean and crisp, with a lager-like quality and a nice hoppiness. The brauhaus is located right by the main Cologne train station and has a modern feel to it, with a huge open room. The food served is considered the best of all the Kölsch bars.

Peter's Brauhaus

Peter's Brauhaus is a great little brewery in the Old Town, considered by some to be "Cologne's best classic German Brauhaus". The Kölsch here is smooth and crisp and always fresh from the tap. It can be more challenging to find in stores or outside the brauhaus, so it is a unique experience. The service is also friendlier than normal, and there are vegetarian and vegan options available.

Päffgen

Päffgen is Cologne's oldest craft brewery, still located at its original address. They brew their beer by hand and it can be enjoyed at their brewery pub and beer garden. The beer is considered one of the purest Kölsch beers as it comes straight from the aging barrel to your table without any additives. The brauhaus has a unique design with an open-air courtyard out back, which looks into the brewery itself.

Brauerei zur Malzmühle

Brauerei zur Malzmühle is a genuine family-run brewery, managed by the fifth generation of the Schwartz family. It is one of only two breweries that continue to produce beer in the old city of Cologne. Although it can be a little loud, the quality of the beer makes it well worth a visit. They also offer a range of beers, including a Malt beer, alongside their standard Kölsch.

Braustelle

Braustelle is Cologne's tiniest brewery, located in the colourful Ehrenfeld district. They produce innovative craft beers, such as Pink Panther, a mildly hopped ale with hibiscus flowers, and Schwarze Sieben, a bitter black stout with roasted malt. The food menu offers German classics like knödel dumplings and frikadelle burgers, as well as lighter dishes.

Hellers

Hellers is a certified organic brewery in the heart of Cologne's Kwartier Latäng neighbourhood. It has a "winter garden" full of lush greenery and a small fountain, and in warmer weather, a beer garden in the city's Volksgarten park.

Schreckenskrammer

Schreckenskrammer is a historic Kölsch with an interesting name dating back to when Cologne still had executions.

Mühlen

Mühlen is a close second to Päffgen in terms of popularity. It is a delicious Kölsch that was good enough for American presidents, as it was the beer Clinton drank during the G8 Summit in Cologne.

Brauhaus Pütz

At Brauhaus Pütz, you can find authentic Mühlen-Kölsch, brewed according to an old family recipe. It is served from a tapping area in the middle of the pub, so patrons can watch the köbes (Rhineland breweries' special brand of waiter) in action.

The process of brewing Kölsch

Malting

Malting is the first step, where barley grain is prepared for brewing. It involves three stages: steeping, germination, and kilning. During steeping, the barley grain is soaked in water for about 40 hours. Next, in the germination stage, the grain is spread out and allowed to germinate for a few days. Finally, kilning involves drying the malt in a kiln at very high temperatures.

Milling

After malting, the grain is milled or crushed to break open the kernels and expose the cotyledon, which contains carbohydrates and sugars. This step facilitates the extraction of sugars during the mashing process.

Mashing

Mashing is a crucial step where the milled grain is combined with hot water, typically between 100°F and 170°F, in a mash tun. This process activates the natural enzymes in the malt, converting starches into fermentable sugars. The duration of mashing is usually one to two hours, during which the brewer can adjust the temperature to activate different enzymes and influence the release of proteins and sugars.

Lautering

Lautering is the process of separating the wort (sugar-rich liquid) from the spent grain. It is typically done in a lauter tun, which has a perforated bottom that allows the solids to settle and form a natural filter. This step consists of three stages: mashout, recirculation, and sparging. Mashout involves raising the temperature to 170°F to stop enzymatic reactions and make the wort less viscous. Recirculation involves drawing out the wort and recirculating it to clarify it by filtering out loose grain particulates. Sparging involves rinsing the spent grain with heated water to extract as much sugar as possible for the wort.

Boiling

The wort is then boiled in a brew kettle, typically for 60 to 120 minutes. During this stage, hops are added to impart their unique characteristics of aroma, taste, and bitterness. The boiling process sterilizes the wort, releases hop flavors, and precipitates proteins. It also helps to concentrate and sterilize the wort.

Whirlpool

After boiling, the whirlpool phase further clarifies the wort by removing protein and hop solids, known as trub. This can be done in a separate whirlpool tank or the brew kettle itself, depending on the brewery's equipment.

Cooling

The wort is then rapidly cooled using a heat exchanger to a temperature suitable for yeast addition, typically around 20-26°C. This step is crucial to ensure the yeast can safely begin the fermentation process.

Fermentation

The cooled wort is transferred to a fermentation vessel, and yeast is pitched (added). This stage is where the sugars are converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide, transforming the mixture into beer. The beer is then maintained at specific temperatures, typically 60-68°F for ales and 50°F for lagers.

Conditioning

After fermentation, the beer undergoes conditioning, where it is allowed to mature and smooth out. By-products of fermentation dissipate during this stage, and additional steps like dry hopping or barrel aging can be introduced to enhance complexity. Conditioning can last from one to several weeks or even months, depending on the brewer's preferences.

Packaging and Carbonation

Finally, the beer is packaged and carbonated, either naturally or through force carbonation. Force carbonation involves adding CO2 under high pressure, resulting in faster carbonation and clearer beer. However, natural methods like krausening or bottle conditioning can also be used to generate carbonation.

The culture of Kölsch in Cologne

In Cologne, the local brew is called Kölsch, and it is beloved by the citizens of Cologne. In and around the city, Kölsch is ubiquitous. Locals will drink almost no other kind of beer, so if you are visiting, trying some Kölsch is a must.

Kölsch is a clear, light, and crisp lager that is typically served in small .2L glasses called a Stange. It is a quintessential beer-beer, perfect for drinking all year round, but especially on warm summer days. It is warm fermented with top-fermenting yeast, then conditioned at cold temperatures like a lager. This brewing process is similar to that used for Düsseldorf's altbier.

Kölsch is not just a beer in Cologne, it also refers to the entire local culture, including the dialect, the humour, and the people. There is a saying in Cologne that says, "Kölsch is the only culture that you can drink." As such, there are a lot of traditions and rituals involved in drinking Kölsch and visiting a Kölsch brewery (brauhaus).

Service in a traditional brauhaus tends to be standoffish, especially to those not accustomed to it. The servers, called Köbes, take their job seriously. They are very professional but are responsible for lots of tables, so their visits to the table are usually quite short. They come for just enough time to swap out the empty glasses and mark down the new tally on your coaster. Refills will come as soon as you are nearing the bottom of your glass. To stop the refills, you place the coaster on top of your glass.

Kölsch is always served cold, and the glasses are made of thin glass. Because of the thin tapered top of the glass, it is customary to clink glasses from the bottom, not the top.

Where to drink Kölsch in Cologne

There are many brauhauses to choose from in Cologne, and each local will have their own favourite. Here are some of the most popular:

• Früh – a great well-rounded Kölsch beer. The main Früh brauhaus is located opposite the cathedral and has a classic atmosphere. The Kölsch at Früh is slightly more malty and has a little more hop flavour. The food is pretty good, serving up iconic German and Cologne cuisine.
• Reissdorf – probably the biggest beer on the list, Reissdorf is everything you'd want from a Kölsch; easy to find, good on flavour, easy to drink, and historic.
• Gaffel – a very clean and crisp beer, more lager-like than other breweries. The brauhaus is located right by the main train station and has a modern feel. The food is the best of all the Kölsch bars on this list.
• Brauerei Pfaffen – this family-owned brewery has been around since the 1970s, serving up crisp, clean Kölsch. The service is friendly, and there is a patio in front of the brauhaus.
• Peter's Brauhaus – located in the Old Town, this is a quintessential German place frequented by locals and tourists alike. The Kölsch is smooth and crisp and always fresh from the tap. It is more challenging to find Peter's in a store or outside the brauhaus, so this is a great place to bring people visiting from out of town.
• Brauerei zur Malzmühle – located just outside the old town, this small brewery has a cult-like following. The beer has a richer, hoppier flavour and a great malt backbone. It can be a little hard to find, but it's well worth a stop when you do.

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