Anthony Bourdain's Culinary Journey In Cologne

Anthony Bourdain's visit to Cologne, Germany, was a food-centric episode of his show 'Parts Unknown'. During his time in the city, Bourdain visited several restaurants, including Brauhaus Zur Malzmühle, Bei Oma Kleinmann, Artistanbul, Ox & Klee, De Fressbud, Kleine Glocke, and Trattoria Bar Celentano. At each place, he sampled a variety of German dishes, including Kölsch beer, Mettbrötchen, Halver Hahn, Himmel un Ääd, and Paeffgen. Bourdain also explored the city's culture and history, including its welcoming nature and industrial architecture, as well as the impact of immigration on its culinary scene.

Brauhaus Zur Malzmühle

When Anthony Bourdain visited Cologne, Germany, in 2016, he stopped by Brauhaus Zur Malzmühle, a famous brewery known for its small glasses of beer and traditional German foods.

At Brauhaus Zur Malzmühle, Bourdain met with local beer expert Heinz Grüne to learn more about the city's beer culture. Over several glasses of Kölsch, a bright, clear, straw-coloured beer native to Cologne, they enjoyed Mettbrötchen (minced raw pork with onions on an open-faced roll), Halver Hahn (aged gouda on rye), Himmel un Ääd (blood sausage, fried onions, and mashed potatoes with applesauce), and Paeffgen (boiled pork shank).

Bourdain described Brauhaus Zur Malzmühle as "democratic, utilitarian, and welcoming to all people with a powerful thirst". He also noted the advantage of the tiny beer glasses, observing that with a giant beer, it would be "piss warm by the time you get down to the bottom".

Bei Oma Kleinmann

Bourdain's visit to Bei Oma Kleinmann also includes a discussion about Cologne's 40-day annual carnival celebration. Bourdain expresses his discomfort with the festivities, which are enthusiastically enjoyed by his friend Tracey. Despite his aversion to the carnival, Bourdain seems to appreciate the warmth and hospitality of Cologne and its residents, describing the city as charming and its people as welcoming.

The episode of Parts Unknown featuring Bei Oma Kleinmann also explores the impact of immigration on Cologne's culture and culinary scene. At the time of filming in 2016, the city had recently welcomed a large number of immigrants from Syria and Turkey, sparking discussions about its ability to support and integrate newcomers. Bourdain meets with a German woman of Turkish descent, Melek Yaprak, and they share a meal of Turkish food, highlighting the influence of immigration on the city's diverse food landscape.

Artistanbul

Bourdain also visited Bei Oma Kleinmann, where he enjoyed more kölsch, as well as pâté and schnitzel, which he described as "surfboard-sized slabs of veal and pork filled with many wonderful things, dredged in breadcrumbs and fried in magical, magical beef fat". He also tried currywurst and curry fries with mayonnaise at De Fressbud, and horse meat pot roast at Kleine Glocke.

In addition to the traditional German fare, Bourdain also sampled some of the city's international cuisine. He dined at Ox & Klee, a new dining spot in Cologne, where he enjoyed a creative culinary experience with dishes such as grilled scallop with black salsify and consomme of burned hay, and grilled lobster with eel, marinated algae, fermented kale, and yuzu froth. He also visited Trattoria Bar Celentano, a traditional Italian restaurant, where he enjoyed antipasti and Spaghetti alle Vongole (spaghetti with white clam sauce).

Ox & Klee

The restaurant is headed by chef Daniel Gottschlich, whose cooking creatively incorporates his "Experience Taste" slogan. The menu features two set menus, "Ox" and "Klee", with the former including fish and meat, and the latter being vegetarian. Each menu offers a choice of six, eight, or 12 courses, exploring the six basic tastes: sweet, sour, bitter, salty, fatty, and umami.

One of the dishes on offer is grilled scallop with black salsify, consomme of burned hay, lemon gelée, and walnut oil. Another is grilled lobster with eel, marinated algae, fermented kale, and yuzu froth. A third dish is braised ox cheeks with marrow, beetroots with mustard, gratin potatoes, and black truffle. The restaurant also serves a traditional Rhenish sandwich, Halve Hahn, and Brezel (pretzel).

De Fressbud

The episode also explored the city's large community of immigrants from different cultures, particularly those from Turkey, and the role they have played in shaping Cologne's culture and culinary scene. Bourdain met with people of various backgrounds, including the children of immigrants, and discussed the city's ability to maintain its strong traditional identity while also embracing diversity.

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