Lance Carson
The history of perfume is a rich and long one, with evidence of the first perfumes dating back to ancient civilizations. The word perfume comes from the Latin per fumus, meaning through smoke. The ancient Egyptians were the first to incorporate perfume into their culture, and the English queen, Elizabeth I, is known for her love of fragrances, as all public places were scented during her rule. The world's first recorded perfumer or chemist was a woman named Tapputi, whose existence was recorded on a cuneiform tablet from 1200 BCE in Babylonian Mesopotamia. The ancient Greeks and Romans popularized perfume, but it was perfected by the Persians and Europeans over time. In the 18th century, Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina created the first Eau de Cologne, and in the 19th century, French brand Guerlain introduced a highly concentrated fragrance called Jicky, marking the first use of the term parfum.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| First perfume | Incense, made by the Mesopotamians around 4000 years ago |
| First recorded chemist and perfume maker | Tapputi, a woman in Babylonian Mesopotamia, around 1200 BCE |
| First liquid perfume | Made by the ancient Greeks |
| First recorded cologne | Eau de Cologne, made by Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina in the 18th century |
| First fragrance labelled a "parfum" extract | Guerlain's Jicky in 1889 |
| First modern fragrance | Chypre by François Coty in 1917 |
| First aldehydes | Produced by a new chemical synthesis process in the 19th century |
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What You'll Learn
The world's first recorded perfumer
Perfumery as an art form has a rich and long history, slowly growing in popularity in different parts of the world. It emerged in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, the Indus Valley Civilisation, and possibly Ancient China, before being refined by the Romans, Persians, and Arabs. The ancient Greeks discovered that fragrances lingered longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists due to the increase in body heat at pulse points. They used various types of oils as the "vehicle" of perfumes, including Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil and olive oil.
The Islamic invasion of Spain and Southern Italy in 711 and 827 reinvigorated the art of perfumery in Western Europe. The Islamic-controlled cities of Spain (Al-Andalus) became major producers of perfumes, and the use of fragrance was also important for devotion to God and for courtship among women. The Persians played a significant role in the development of Middle Eastern perfumery, with chemist Ibn Sina (Avicenna) introducing the process of extracting oils from flowers by distillation, which remains the most common method today.
In the 14th century, the cultivation of flowers as raw ingredients for perfumes began in France, and Grasse became the perfume capital of the world. The first modern perfume, Hungary Water, was made in 1370 at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. It was a blend of scented oils and alcohol and is considered the world's first Eau de toilette.
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Ancient uses of perfume
The use of perfume can be traced back to multiple ancient cultures, most notably the ancient Egyptian civilisation. In ancient Egypt, perfume was considered to be the sweat of the sun god, Ra, and was used to sweeten the smell of sacrificial offerings. The ancient Egyptians also associated incense with connecting humans to the Gods, and it was burned each night to please and appease the deities as they journeyed to the underworld. Archaeologists have discovered perfumes in Egyptian tombs, which retained their original, sweet smell, despite being over 3,000 years old.
The ancient Greeks also used perfume, with both men and women partaking in the practice. The Greeks discovered that fragrances lingered longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists, due to the increase in body heat at pulse points. Perfumes were typically restricted to the wealthy, with royalty and clergy being the most frequent users. However, those who could not afford perfume might have a perfume bottle painted on their coffin as a tribute to the gods. The ancient Greeks used various types of oils as the "vehicle" of perfumes, such as Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil, or olive oil derived from "raw" and "coarse" olives.
The Romans, Persians, and Arabs also refined perfume, with the world's first recorded chemist being a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia around 1200 BCE. In ancient China, aromatic products and their uses were recorded around 4,500 BCE, although these fragrances took the form of incense rather than perfumes to be worn.
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The evolution of modern perfumery
In the 6th century, Islamic cultures made significant advancements in Middle Eastern perfumery by introducing steam distillation for perfume extraction and experimenting with new raw materials like musk, amber, and rose. This led to the widespread use of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today, which was introduced by the Persian chemist Ibn Sina. The fall of the Western Roman Empire saw a decline in perfumery in Western Europe, but the Islamic invasion of Spain and Southern Italy in the 8th and 9th centuries reinvigorated the art.
During the 17th century, perfume enjoyed huge success, especially in France, where it was used to mask unpleasant body odours. In England, it was used extensively during the reigns of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I, who had all public places scented due to her intolerance of bad smells. The 18th century saw the creation of the first Eau de Cologne by Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina, which became wildly popular among royalty.
The 19th century marked a profound change in perfumery with the development of modern chemistry. The first fragrance labelled as a "parfum" extract with a high concentration of aromatic compounds was Guerlain's Jicky in 1889. The emergence of a strong middle class led to more sophisticated fragrances, and the olfactory revolution was triggered by a new process of chemical synthesis that produced the first aldehydes.
By the early 20th century, perfume manufacture in Russia had become globally significant, and the first half of the century saw fragrance companies offering their products in multiple concentrations, making them accessible to a wider range of customers. The Chanel perfume brand, established in 1921, launched iconic fragrances like Chanel No. 5, which blended floral and musky notes and became an instant success worldwide.
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How to apply perfume
The world of perfume is fascinating, with its history stretching back to ancient civilisations. The ancient Greeks are known to have produced perfumes, and a woman named Tapputi, recorded on a 1200 BCE Cuneiform tablet, is considered the world's first recorded chemist, overseeing perfume-making in Babylonian Mesopotamia. The ancient Greeks used various types of oils as the base for their perfumes, and the Romans, Persians, and Arabs also played a part in refining the art of perfumery.
Now, when it comes to applying perfume, there are a few tips and tricks to ensure your fragrance lasts and has the desired effect. Firstly, it's important to note that less is often more. A few spritzes should be enough to leave a lasting impression, and you don't want to overwhelm those around you with a strong scent. The key is to diffuse the perfume all over your body rather than concentrating it in one area.
The best places to apply perfume are your pulse points. These are areas where your veins sit closest to your skin, and you can feel your pulse. Pulse points include the inside of your wrists, inner elbows, below your belly button, behind your earlobes, and the back of your knees. These warm spots emit extra body heat, helping to naturally diffuse the scent. When applying to your wrists, you can also press them behind your ears for added effect.
It's recommended to apply perfume post-shower when your skin is dried off but still warm, as the perfume will absorb better into the skin when it's warm and the pores are open. If you have dry skin, consider applying a light coat of unscented body lotion or Vaseline first, as this provides something for the perfume oils to cling to, making the scent last longer.
You can also spritz a bit of perfume into your hair, but be mindful of the formula, as not all perfumes are suitable for hair application. Additionally, you can dab a small amount of perfume onto your clothing to make the scent last all day. However, be cautious not to apply it to delicate fabrics like silk, and always let the fragrance dry before putting on any jewellery to avoid potential tarnishing or discolouration from the alcohol in the perfume.
Finally, remember to store your perfume correctly. Keep it in its original packaging in a cool, dry, and dark place. Avoid humid areas like the bathroom, as water, humidity, and temperature changes can impact the composition and shelf life of your perfume.
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The first fragrance labelled parfum
The history of perfume is a long and fascinating one, stretching back thousands of years to the ancient world. The first form of perfume was incense, created by the Mesopotamians around 4000 years ago. The ancient Greeks produced the first liquid perfumes, using various types of oils as the base, while the Arabs developed the process of distillation, making perfume manufacture viable.
The term "perfume" itself emerged in the late 19th century, and it was around this time that the first fragrance labelled as a "parfum" extract was created. In 1889, the French brand Guerlain introduced 'Jicky', a highly concentrated blend where a small amount went a long way. This fragrance is considered a pioneer in the world of perfumes, with its high concentration of aromatic compounds.
The late 19th century also saw the rise of modern perfumery, with changing tastes and the development of chemistry laying the foundations for new creations. The perfume industry was increasingly targeting middle-class women, and the emergence of a strong middle class led to more sophisticated fragrances. This shift in consumer demographics and the advent of chemical synthesis marked a significant turning point in the olfactory world.
Prior to the 19th century, perfume had a rich history spanning various civilisations. The ancient Greeks, Romans, Persians, and Arabs all played a role in refining and developing perfumes. The Islamic invasion of Spain and Southern Italy in the 8th and 9th centuries reinvigorated the art of perfumery in Western Europe, with the Islamic-controlled cities of Spain becoming major producers and traders of perfumes.
The 17th century witnessed the huge success and popularity of perfumes, especially in France, where they were used to mask unpleasant body odours resulting from spotty hygiene practices. During the reigns of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I in England, public places were scented due to the queen's intolerance of bad smells.
The evolution of perfume continued with the emergence of the French empire, where Napoleon is said to have expended exorbitant sums on perfumes, with violet cologne and double extracts of jasmine among his favourites. The first Eau de Cologne was created in the 18th century by Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina, who named it after the German town of Cologne where he resided. This fragrance became wildly popular among royalty and inspired the creation of 4711 Cologne.
The world's first recorded chemist is a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia around 1200 BCE. She held a prominent position in the Mesopotamian government and religion and pioneered methods for scent extraction that laid the groundwork for future perfume creation.
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Frequently asked questions
The first perfume was made more than 4,000 years ago in Cyprus, which is considered the birthplace of fragrances.
The oldest perfumes were discovered in Cyprus and were made from incense and aromatic herbs.
The world's first recorded perfumer or chemist was a woman named Tapputi, whose existence was recorded on a 1200 BCE Cuneiform tablet in Babylonian Mesopotamia.
The first modern perfume was Guerlain's Jicky in 1889, which was the first fragrance labelled a "parfum" extract with a high concentration of aromatic compounds.
