Seamus Hammond
The use of fragrance dates back thousands of years, with the first perfumes believed to have originated in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Cyprus. The word perfume comes from the Latin per fumum, meaning through smoke, as the first form of perfume was incense, created by the Mesopotamians about 4000 years ago. The ancient Egyptians were the first to incorporate perfume into their culture, using fragrances in religious ceremonies and daily life, with the rich elites of society wearing aromas like lily to denote their status. The ancient Greeks and Romans further developed the art of perfumery, with the Romans using massive quantities of imported frankincense and myrrh in their public bathhouses and body care products.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| First form of perfume | Incense |
| First form of perfume invented by | Mesopotamians |
| First form of perfume invented around | 4000 years ago |
| Word "perfume" meaning | "Through smoke" |
| Word "perfume" derived from Latin phrase | "Per fume" |
| French name for "perfume" | "Parfum" |
| First stage in making a perfume | Extraction of fragrant essential oils from plants |
| Most common method of extraction | Distillation |
| Most common type of oil used by ancient Greeks | Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil |
| Most common type of olive oil used by ancient Greeks | Derived from "raw" and "coarse" olives |
| Perfumes used by | Both men and women |
| First commercial production of perfume | Paris, 1190 |
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What You'll Learn
The Ancient Egyptians invented perfume
Egyptians made perfume by distilling natural ingredients with non-scented oils, such as Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil, or olive oil derived from "raw" and "coarse" olives. The most popular scents were floral, woody, and fruity, with incense used ceremonially and also playing a large part in Egyptian international relations. It is said that Egyptian leaders such as Cleopatra and Hatshepsut used fragrances to scent their bodies, baths, and living quarters.
The Ancient Egyptians also invented glass, and perfume bottles were one of the first common uses of this material. The earliest use of perfume bottles has been found to date back to around 1000 BC in Egypt. Persian and Arab chemists helped to systemise the production of perfume, and its use spread throughout classical antiquity.
The discovery of perfume is often attributed to a woman named Tapputi, believed to be a Mesopotamian chemist during the second millennium BC. However, it was the Ancient Egyptians who first embraced the use of perfume in their culture, influencing the ancient Chinese, Indians, Israelites, Carthaginians, Arabs, Greeks, and Romans who followed.
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The French popularised perfume
The French didn't invent perfume, but they did popularise it. The French word "parfum" was originally given to the smells produced by burning incense. The ancient Egyptians were the first to incorporate perfume into their culture, followed by the ancient Chinese, Hindus, Israelites, Carthaginians, Arabs, Greeks, and Romans. The oldest perfumes were discovered by archaeologists in Cyprus and are more than 4,000 years old.
The French are known for their impeccable sense of style and sophistication, and their choice of perfume is an extension of this. According to the queen of perfume, Mademoiselle Coco Chanel, “No elegance is possible without perfume. It is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory.”
The popularity of perfume exploded in France in the 16th century, especially among the upper classes and nobles. With the help of "the perfume court," the court of Louis XV, everything was perfumed: furniture, gloves, and other clothing. The French court was the first to embrace the idea of perfuming oneself and everything around, and by the 18th century, the geography of perfume and the art of perfumery shifted to Paris.
The town of Grasse in Provence, France, was one of the smelliest towns in the country in the mid-1500s due to the tanning industry. To mask the stench on the best-selling leather gloves, manufacturers sprayed them with perfume. Grasse became a major hub of the perfume industry as locals used the abundant roses, lavender, and jasmine to distill scents. Grasse is still considered the perfume capital of France and is home to some of the world's finest glove-makers and perfume manufacturers such as Fragonard, Galimard, and Molinard.
The French also contributed to the development of modern perfumery through their expertise in chemistry. Chanel No. 5, created by Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in 1921, was the first perfume created by applying modern chemical principles and the first to contain synthetics. Today, France leads the international perfume market, and French scents account for around 30% of the world share.
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The first perfumes were incense
The word "perfume" comes from the Latin phrase "per fumum", meaning "through smoke". The French later gave the name "parfum" to the smells produced by burning incense. Indeed, the first form of perfume was incense, first made by the Mesopotamians about 4,000 years ago. Mesopotamian incense was made from resins, woods, fir, and myrtle, with the most precious ingredient being Cedar of Lebanon. The Akkadian word for incense, "lubbunu", is still reflected in the name Lebanon today. Archaeologists have discovered special rooms devoted to blending perfumes in the excavated Syrian city of Mari, with an emphasis on the use of pines and confiers.
The ancient Egyptians also used incense and perfume, with hieroglyphics in Egyptian tombs showing that they were making perfume as long as 3,000 BC. Egyptian priests used aromatic resins to sweeten the smell of sacrificial offerings, and important figures in Egyptian history were buried with scented oils. When archaeologists opened ancient Egyptian tombs in 1897, they discovered that the perfumes had retained their original, sweet smells. The Egyptians invented glass, and perfume bottles were one of the first common uses for this material.
The use of incense and perfume was also widespread in the ancient world more broadly. Assyrian records from 890 BCE refer to balls of myrrh among the gifts given to the Assyrian king Tukulti-Ninurta II by the Aramaean kingdoms. There are also records of large quantities of frankincense and myrrh being used as incense in the Jewish temple in Jerusalem, where they were kept with the king's treasures. Biblical sources also refer to the use of incense and perfume in ancient Israel, with references to native and imported fragrances from the near East.
The production and trade of perfume and incense were a tremendous source of wealth and power as far back as the 13th century BCE. Merchants from the ancient Arabian Peninsula emerged as some of the wealthiest businessmen of their time by trading in body oils and aromatic incense used for ritual ceremonies. This gave rise to the famous "Incense Route" of ancient times, also referred to as the "Perfume Route".
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The process of making perfume
The first stage in making a perfume is the extraction of fragrant essential oils from plants. There are six methods of extracting oils from plants: steam distillation, boiling, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression. Steam distillation is the most common method, where plant materials are placed in boiling water to release their essential oils, which evaporate with the steam. The steam and oil are then condensed, and the oil separates from the water and can be collected. This process is extremely time-consuming and costly, as thousands of kilos of flowers may be needed to obtain just one kilo of essential oil.
After extraction, the oils are diluted with alcohol, which acts as a fixative, giving fragrances their long-lasting effect by delaying evaporation. The diluted solution is then left to steep in special copper or stainless steel pots before being cooled to allow any resins or waxy particles to settle.
The next step is to add the different scent notes. Scents can be divided into different families such as floral, oriental, woody, and fresh (citrus). Perfumes usually have top, middle, and base notes. The top note is the initial scent that disappears quickly and includes fragrances like lemon, orange, grapefruit, and bergamot. The middle note appears after the top note and includes scents like coriander, palmarosa, and marjoram. The base note is the foundation of the perfume and includes fragrances like patchouli, vetiver, and cedarwood. When mixing the perfume, the base notes are added first, followed by the middle and then the top notes.
Finally, the fragrance needs to be diluted with distilled or spring water. Glycerine is also added to help preserve the fragrance. The perfume is then poured into bottles, which need to be covered with aluminium foil or wrapping paper if they are clear, to protect the fragrance from light.
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Perfume's impact on the world
The world of perfumery has a long and rich history, with fragrances playing a significant role in various civilisations throughout the ages. The use of perfume is mainly associated with mystery, fantasy, and imagination. People wear perfume to please others, to leave a good impression, or to surround themselves with a pleasing, lingering scent.
The first form of perfume was incense, first made by the Mesopotamians about 4000 years ago. The ancient Egyptians were the first to incorporate perfume into their culture, followed by the ancient Chinese, Hindus, Israelites, Carthaginians, Arabs, Greeks, and Romans. The English word "perfume" comes from the Latin "per fumum", meaning "through smoke". The ancient Greeks discovered that fragrances lingered longer on the skin when applied to the inner wrists, a practice that continues today.
The development of chemistry in the 19th century laid the foundations for modern perfumery. Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume created by applying modern chemical principles and the first to contain synthetics. The use of synthetic compounds in perfumery has continued to evolve, with chemists adept at producing synthetic versions of natural compounds, facilitating manufacture. However, these synthetic chemicals can be derived from petrochemicals, contributing to pollution and respiratory issues.
The production and distribution of perfumes also contribute to carbon emissions, with the cultivation of raw materials, manufacturing, and transportation all playing a part in the industry's carbon footprint. Climate change and extreme weather events are threatening the production of ingredients essential to perfumery, such as vanilla in Madagascar and irises in Tuscany.
To minimise the environmental impact of the fragrance industry, consumers are encouraged to support brands that prioritise sustainable practices, ethical sourcing, and eco-friendly packaging. Reducing packaging waste, opting for natural and organic ingredients, and choosing products free from synthetic fragrances and harsh chemicals can also help mitigate the impact of perfumes on the environment and personal health.
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Frequently asked questions
The first form of perfume was incense, first made by the Mesopotamians about 4,000 years ago.
Incense was the first type of perfume, made from aromatic gums, frankincense, and myrrh gathered from trees.
The ancient Greeks used oils as the base for their perfumes. They chose odourless oils, as pungent oils would overpower the natural fragrance of the other raw materials used.
In 1190, perfumes started to be produced commercially in Paris, making fragrances into a massive industry in the modern world.
The first stage in making a modern perfume is the extraction of fragrant essential oils from plants, usually through steam distillation.
