Anisha Riggs
Shaving soap is a type of soap that is made to have a long-lasting, creamy lather and the right amount of slip to allow your shaving blade to glide over your skin, protecting it while you shave. Shaving soap helps in the shaving process by removing the natural oils from the face and hair, making the hair more penetrable by water, and thus softer and easier to cut with a razor. When making your own shaving soap, you can add fragrance oils or essential oils to add scent to your soap. However, some fragrance oils may not be healthy for the skin, as some synthetic fragrances can contain phthalates, estrogen mimickers, or endocrine disruptors. To ensure that the scent of your shaving soap stays strong, you can cure the soap in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.
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What You'll Learn
The amount of fragrance oil to use in shaving soap
The amount of fragrance oil you should use in shaving soap depends on the type of soap you are making, the strength of the fragrance oil, and your personal preference.
The standard amount of fragrance oil added to soaps is 3% of the oil weight, which works out to about 0.5 oz per pound of oil. However, some fragrance oils are very strong, like peppermint, and you may want to use less, around 0.3 oz per pound of oil. Others don't stick very well, like citrus, and you might need to use more, around 0.7 oz per pound of oil.
If you are making cold process soap, a general recommendation is to use 30g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils in your recipe. For hot process soap, use 15-20g of fragrance oil per kilogram of fats/oils, and for melt-and-pour soaps, use 10g of fragrance oil per kilogram of the soap base.
It's important to note that the amount of fragrance oil you use will also depend on the specific fragrance oil you are using. For example, the maximum recommended amount of Cherry Almond Fragrance Oil is 0.2 oz per pound of cold process soap.
To ensure a strong scent, you can add 0.7 oz of fragrance oil per pound of cold process soap or 0.3 oz per pound of melt-and-pour soap. You can also experiment with blending different fragrance oils to create unique scents and improve scent retention.
Additionally, the amount of water in your recipe can impact the fragrance oil usage rate. By using a high water discount, you can increase the fragrance oil load in your soap. However, it's important to use at least 330g of water for every kilogram of fats/oils in your recipe.
Finally, it's recommended to cure the soap in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight to ensure the scent stays strong.
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Anchoring fragrance oils to prevent scent fading
When creating shaving soap, the fragrance oil is typically added to the fats/oils before adding the caustic soda solution. However, the addition of fragrance oils is not enough to ensure that the scent lasts. To prevent scent fading, a process called "anchoring" is used.
Fragrance oils don't saponify, meaning they are "free-floating" in the soap. As the liquid in the soap evaporates, it can take some of the fragrance oil with it. Anchoring your fragrances gives them something to "hold on to" while your soaps cure and get rid of excess liquid. This can be done by using a lower amount of liquid in your recipe, as the less liquid that must cure out of the soap, the less fragrance oil will cure out with it.
One popular method of anchoring fragrance oils is by using kaolin clay. This inexpensive ingredient is added to the cold process soap recipe and is believed to hold onto the fragrance or essential oil, making it last longer. Bentonite Clay Soap, for example, uses kaolin clay to anchor lime essential oil with earthy patchouli essential oil. While this method is not 100% failproof, it can also add a nice slip and subtle colour to the soap.
Other methods of anchoring include using cornstarch, baking soda, or a product called Aroma Fix from LotionCrafters. Additionally, certain "base notes" like cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, litsea, and vanilla can be used to anchor scents in soap. For cold process soap, it is recommended to use 30g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils in the recipe.
To further ensure the scent stays strong, cure the soap in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. You can also dip a cotton ball or balled-up paper towel in the fragrance oil and place it by the soap while it cures.
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The safety of fragrance oils for skin
The safety of fragrance oils for the skin is a valid concern, especially as scented products like perfumes, candles, and room mists are widely used. Fragrance oils are created in a laboratory and are not found in nature, but they can contain natural compounds. They are different from essential oils, which are natural hydrophobic liquids obtained through distillation and have the characteristic odour of their source.
When creating scented soaps, the type of soap-making process and curing conditions can affect the retention of fragrance oils. Fragrance oils do not saponify, so they can evaporate during the curing process. To prevent this, soap makers can use techniques like "anchoring," which involves pairing lighter fragrances with deeper, more complex scents to help them last longer in the final product. Kaolin clay is a popular ingredient for anchoring as it holds onto fragrance oils and also adds a subtle colour and texture to the soap.
To ensure the safety of fragrance oils for the skin, it is important to purchase from reputable sources that provide detailed information about their products, including performance notes and usage instructions. If you have concerns about a specific product or oil, consulting a dermatologist or medical professional is always recommended.
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Natural essential oils for shaving soap
Natural essential oils are a great way to add fragrance to shaving soap while keeping the product natural and beneficial to the skin.
There are many essential oils to choose from, each with its own unique properties and benefits. For example, rosemary and mint are highly antibiotic and perfect for skin and hair. Siberian Fir essential oil is described as crisp, clean, masculine, and warm, making it ideal for the winter months. Natural Glycerin Shaving Soap can be lightly scented with bergamot or eucalyptus essential oil.
Some essential oils are better suited for shaving soap than others, as certain oils can provide a more pleasant shaving experience. For instance, grapefruit, cedarwood, and tea tree create an invigorating shave, while cedarwood also provides a wonderful fragrance. Eucalyptus and rosemary are a great aromatic blend, and grapefruit is perfect for an energizing shave.
When creating shaving soap with essential oils, it is important to consider the process and the type of oil being used. For cold process soap, essential oils can be added at a rate of 0.7 ounces per pound of soap to achieve a strong scent. However, some essential oils, such as straight coconut fragrances and citrus oils, tend to fade in cold process soap due to the harsh environment and pH changes. In this case, anchoring the fragrance with a deeper, earthier scent or an ingredient like kaolin clay can help retain the scent.
Alternatively, hot process soap typically uses high flashpoint oils, and the soap should be cured in a cool, dry place to maintain the fragrance. The amount of fragrance oil added can be adjusted to suit personal preferences and the specific oil being used.
Overall, natural essential oils offer a wide range of options for creating shaving soaps with delightful fragrances and added skin benefits.
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DIY shaving soap recipes
Creating your shaving soap can be a fun and rewarding experience, allowing you to customise the ingredients and fragrance to your liking. Here is a detailed guide to making your own shaving soap at home, including instructions on when to add fragrance oils.
Ingredients and Equipment:
- Soy wax (look for brands that are additive-free and skin-safe, such as Golden Brands GW402 and GW415)
- Water (filtered, distilled, or any other clean, soft water)
- Essential oils of your choice (e.g., cedar, rosemary, or fragrance oil)
- Bentonite clay or Kaolin clay (optional, for improved lather and scent retention)
- Cocoa butter
- Lye (sodium hydroxide or a combination of sodium and potassium hydroxides)
- Soap-making jug (polypropylene plastic) or stovetop
- Moulds (e.g., silicone muffin moulds)
- PH testing kit
- Stick blender (optional)
Step-by-Step Instructions:
- Prepare the Wax and Oils: Measure out the desired amount of soy wax, oils, and fats according to your recipe. Melt them together in a soap-making jug or gently on a stovetop at a low temperature of about 60°C/140°F until fully melted. Soy wax is a great alternative to palm oil and provides the desired hardness and creamy lather due to its high stearic acid content.
- Add the Lye Water: In a separate container, prepare a lye solution by mixing lye with water. For a softer soap that lathers easily, use dual lye with a combination of 60% KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) and 40% NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide). Wear protective equipment when handling lye, as it can be caustic.
- Combine the Mixture: Slowly add the lye solution to the melted wax, oils, and fats, stirring continuously until well combined. You can use a stick blender for more efficient mixing.
- Add Fragrance Oils: This is the stage where you can add your chosen fragrance oils or essential oils. For a strong scent, use 0.7 ounces of fragrance or essential oil per pound of soap. You can also experiment with different oils and blending techniques to create unique fragrances.
- Include Clay (Optional): If you want to enhance the lather and scent retention, add bentonite or kaolin clay to the mixture. Clay helps hold onto the fragrance oil, making the scent last longer.
- Pour into Moulds: Pour the soap mixture into your chosen moulds. You can use silicone muffin moulds or individual oval moulds, depending on your preference.
- Cure the Soap: Allow the soap to cure for at least two weeks in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. The curing process will help evaporate excess liquid, including any remaining fragrance oil, resulting in a harder soap bar.
- PH Testing: Before using or gifting your homemade shaving soap to others, it is crucial to test the pH to ensure it is safe and suitable for the skin.
Tips for Working with Fragrance Oils:
- Fragrance oils do not saponify, so they may evaporate during the curing process. Anchoring your fragrances with clay or pairing them with deeper, earthier scents can help retain the scent.
- Always use fragrance oils that are specifically approved for use in soap and follow the recommended usage rates.
- If you're making hot process soap, stick to high-flashpoint oils to prevent scent fading.
- Cure your soap away from plastic surfaces, as fragrance oils do not react well with plastic.
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Frequently asked questions
For cold process soap, use 30g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils in your recipe. For hot process soap, use 15-20g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils. For melt-and-pour soaps, use 10g of fragrance for every kilogram of the soap base.
Shaving soaps with fragrance oils smell wonderful and can offer an invigorating shaving experience. They can also help to heal skin irritations.
Add fragrance oils to your shaving soap mixture before pouring it into your moulds or jars.
