Heidi Norton
Choosing a fragrance can be intimidating, especially with the plethora of options available. The best cologne for men can vary across budget, preference, and occasion, but the goal is to help you smell good. While there is no one way to categorise scents, fragrance expert Michael Edwards' fragrance wheel divides men's fragrances into four main families: fresh, woody, amber, and floral. However, you may also respond to more specific subdivisions like aquatic, green, and spicy. Woody fragrances are described as having depth and richness and are inherently masculine, while aromatic and citrus colognes are bright, refreshing, and energising, making them suitable for year-round wear.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fragrance families | Fresh, woody, amber, floral, aquatic, green, spicy |
| Top notes | Overpowering scent, lasts about 15 minutes |
| Middle notes | Heart notes, noticed once top notes fade |
| Base notes | Longest-lasting and deepest, noticed all day |
| Skin application | Sprayed directly onto moisturized skin |
| Application technique | Do not rub in |
| Fragrance concentration | EDT, EDP, cologne/eau de cologne/EDC |
| EDT concentration | 1-3% perfume oil |
| EDP concentration | 5-8% perfume oil |
| Cologne concentration | 3-5% perfume oil |
| Seasonality | Summer: light, citrus; Winter: heavy, food-inspired |
| Examples | Dior Sauvage Elixir, Ralph Lauren's Polo Red, YSL's Y Men's Eau de Parfum, Montblanc's 'Explorer' |
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What You'll Learn
Top, middle and base notes
Top, middle, and base notes are the three main layers of a fragrance, forming the foundation of every perfume and influencing how it unfolds and interacts with the skin.
Top notes are the first scents you smell when a fragrance hits the skin, and they dissipate the quickest. They are mainly fresh, fruity, or sharp scents, composed largely of citrus ingredients, but also of other fresh notes such as green. Examples of top notes include bergamot, lemon, and sage.
Middle notes, also known as heart notes, are the elements of the fragrance you smell once the top notes have faded. They are the heart of the perfume, providing balance between the fresh opening and the rich base notes. They are more complex than top notes, and are meant to hold your attention and act as a buffer for the base notes. Middle notes are often warm, floral, or herbal, and can also be spicy or fruity. They usually start to reveal themselves from 15 minutes after application and can last for a few hours. Examples of middle notes include patchouli, cedar, cinnamon, lavender, pine, and black pepper.
Base notes are the deepest and longest-lasting notes of a fragrance, and while you might stop smelling them after a while, they are the reason someone might compliment you on a fragrance you forgot you were wearing. They are the least volatile, evaporating the slowest, and are composed of large, heavy molecules that provide complexity and depth. They are predominantly deep and warm, with ingredients such as woody, balsamic, and musky notes, but also amber, sandalwood, vanilla, and patchouli.
When choosing a men's fragrance, it is important to consider the fragrance families and which ones work in a given context. Woody, citrus, or aromatic colognes tend to wear well as daily "signature scents". Aromatic and citrus colognes are described as "bright, refreshing, and energizing", while woody fragrances are considered "more inherently masculine".
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How to apply cologne
Applying cologne is an art form. If not done properly, you run the risk of over-application or a scent that fades quickly. Here is a guide on how to apply cologne properly:
Firstly, it is important to understand fragrance families and identify which ones work in a given context. Woody, citrus, or aromatic colognes tend to wear well as daily "signature scents". Aromatic and citrus colognes are described as "bright, refreshing, and energizing" and are better suited to year-round wear. Woody fragrances, on the other hand, have depth and richness and are more "inherently masculine".
When applying cologne, it is recommended to spray it directly onto the skin, where it lasts the longest. Hold the bottle 3-6 inches away from your body and spray onto heated areas of your body, such as your neck, chest, pulse points, forearms, or inner elbows. The heat helps diffuse the scent throughout the day and allows it to meld with your body chemistry to develop your signature scent.
Apply sparingly and strategically so that the cologne lasts all day. It is also recommended to apply cologne immediately after showering, as the shower cleanses your body of any other scents and opens your pores, helping the scent absorb.
Do not rub the cologne into your skin, as this can cause the top notes to evaporate faster, impacting the overall wear time. Instead, simply spray it and let it set.
You can also gauge how much to apply by the "personal space" rule. If someone is in your personal space, they should be able to pick up the scent. If they are not in your personal space, they should not be able to smell it.
Finally, avoid spraying cologne directly on your clothes. This prevents it from mixing with your natural oils, which gives it its unique quality. It can also prevent the scent from going through its scent stages, rendering it flat and monochrome. Spraying cologne on your clothes can also be harmful to some fabrics.
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Seasonal fragrances
When it comes to fragrances, it's important to consider the season. Just like we change our wardrobes to suit the weather, we should also change our perfumes or colognes.
Spring
Spring is the time to embrace light and transparent fragrances. Look for scents that are green, citrusy, fresh, and vegetal. Le Labo's Santal 33 is a popular choice in this season, offering a sandalwood fragrance without being too sweet. Geranium Pour Monsieur is another excellent option for daily wear in the spring, as are fragrances with top notes of cantaloupe melon, cucumber, watery melon, and bergamot oil.
Summer
Summer calls for light, fresh, and citrusy fragrances. Azure Lime by Tom Ford brings notes of fresh lime, while also offering a unique scent that mimics a luxurious gin and tonic. If you're looking for a more affordable option, Hermes' H24 Eau de Parfum provides a pleasant, green fragrance with notes of clary sage and oakmoss. For a youthful vibe, Green by Coach offers strong notes of kiwi, though it may need a few top-up sprays throughout the day.
Autumn
As the weather cools down, opt for fragrances that are warmer and richer, with a touch of spice. Top notes to look for include cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, pine, leather, tobacco, and vanilla. Viktor Rolf's Spicebomb range is a popular choice, with classic autumn notes of cinnamon, leather, tobacco, and pink pepper. For a touch of sweetness, consider Boucheron Jaipur, which blends cinnamon, nutmeg, and woodland nuances with a hint of vanilla.
Winter
Winter is the perfect time to indulge in warm and spicy fragrances. Spicebomb Extreme by Viktor Rolf is a popular choice, offering an intense version of their signature scent. For a more versatile option, the original Spicebomb Eau de Toilette blends fresh spicy, citrus, and woody notes with warm cinnamon and a subtle tobacco aroma. Stronger With You is another great option for the winter, offering a sweet and spicy fragrance balanced by clean sage and lavender notes.
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Different types of cologne
Choosing a men's cologne can be a daunting task given the wide variety of options available. To find the right cologne, it's essential to consider factors such as scent profile, longevity, and the occasion for which you'll be wearing the fragrance.
Colognes can be broadly categorized into four fragrance families: fresh, woody, amber, and floral. However, these categories can be further broken down into more specific subdivisions like aquatic, green, and spicy. Woody fragrances, for example, are often described as having depth and richness and are considered more inherently masculine. Aromatic and citrus colognes, on the other hand, are bright, refreshing, and energizing, making them suitable for year-round wear.
Citrus-based and floral colognes are typically more suited for spring and summer, while orientals, and leather or woody-based fragrances are ideal for autumn and winter. The season and temperature play a crucial role in choosing a cologne as heat amplifies scent, and a light, crisp fragrance might not be appropriate for colder months.
When it comes to longevity, the concentration of perfumed oils in a cologne determines how long it will last. Colognes with a higher percentage of perfumed oils will have greater staying power. Eau de Cologne, for instance, typically contains 2-4% concentrated essential oils and will last a few hours, while Eau de Parfum, with up to 20% essential oils, offers a stronger and longer-lasting fragrance.
Additionally, the way cologne is applied can impact its performance. It is recommended to apply cologne directly to the skin, especially on pulse points like the neck, wrists, and chest. Spraying cologne on moisturized skin can also help it cling better and last longer. However, it's important to avoid rubbing the cologne into the skin as this can cause the top notes to evaporate faster.
Ultimately, the best cologne for men will vary across budget, preference, and occasion. Finding the right cologne is about discovering a scent that enhances your natural scent and personal style.
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Choosing a signature scent
However, you may respond better to more specific subdivisions like aquatic, green, and spicy. The right scent can make all the difference, creating an allure that’s hard to resist. It can also evoke certain memories and images. For example, if you want to be reminded of an old-growth forest in Colorado, go with something woody. Or, if you want to close your eyes and imagine subtle notes of spice, smoke, or vanilla, opt for an amber fragrance.
When choosing a signature scent, it's important to understand fragrance families and identify which ones work in a given context. Woody, citrus, or aromatic colognes, for instance, tend to wear well as daily "signature scents". Aromatic and citrus colognes are described as "bright, refreshing, and energizing" and are better suited to year-round wear. Woody fragrances, on the other hand, are said to have more "depth and richness" and are more "inherently masculine".
If you're looking for a scent that will last, opt for a fragrance with a higher percentage of perfumed oils. Colognes or Eau de Colognes tend to have a perfume oil concentration of 3-5%, while Eau de Parfums have a range of 5-8%.
Finally, when testing colognes, it’s important to spray them on your skin, rather than on paper. This will allow you to get a true sense of the fragrance, as the scent will react with your body chemistry.
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Frequently asked questions
The fragrance wheel, an industry standard for categorizing scents, divides fragrances into four main families: fresh, woody, amber, and floral. However, you may respond better to more specific subdivisions like aquatic, green, and spicy.
Top notes are the first ones you smell when the fragrance hits the skin, and they are also the first to disappear. Heart or middle notes are the elements of the fragrance you smell once the top notes have faded. Base notes are the deepest and longest-lasting of the bunch.
According to experts, cologne clings best to moisturized skin. Always apply cologne directly to the skin, and do not rub it in—simply spray and let it set.
Dior Sauvage, a classic fragrance with notes of nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom, is the best-selling men's fragrance in the world. Other popular fragrances include YSL’s Y Men’s Eau de Parfum, Maison Francis Kurkdjian's "Parisian evening" blend, and Paco Rabanne's 1 Million.
It is recommended to have colognes for two different uses: work and play. Your work scent is your daily go-to fragrance and should be lighter and less expensive. Your unique fragrance for special occasions will be heavier, more expensive, and longer-lasting.
