Katrina Rosales
Tuberose is a popular floral note in perfumery, known for its rich, heady, sweet, and intoxicating scent. It is a white flower that originated in Central America and southern Mexico and made its way to Europe and Asia in the 16th and 17th centuries via colonial trade routes. The process of extracting its essence has evolved over the centuries, and it is now primarily done through solvent extraction using hexane. Tuberose is often combined with other notes such as jasmine, orange blossom, and vanilla to create sophisticated and luxurious fragrances. Its fragrance is versatile and can be paired with earthy, woody, or spicy notes for a modern twist.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Odor profile | Intense, white floral, carnal, sweet, indolic, green nuances |
| Origin | Central America, southern Mexico |
| Other flowers it evokes | Narcissus, gardenia, frangipani, tiare |
| Other notes | Coconut milk, beeswax, gingerbread, vanilla, musk, violet, lily of the valley, sandalwood, ginger, jasmine, orange blossom, bergamot, honeysuckle |
| Fragrance family | Floral, powdery florals, oriental |
| Popular perfumes | Fracas by Robert Piguet, Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion, Michael by Michael Kors, Do Son by Diptyque, Tom Ford's Tubereuse, Narcotic Venus, Poison by Dior, Tubéreuse Criminelle by Lutens, Gabrielle Essence by Chanel, Tuberose Gardenia by Estée Lauder, Good Girl Gone by Killian, Tuberose Le Jour by Aerin, Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense by Jo Malone London, Twilly by Hermès, Flora Carnivora by Gucci, Bon Parfumeur eau de parfum 103, Chloé's original 1974 Eau de Toilette |
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What You'll Learn
Tuberose's cultural significance
Tuberose, scientifically known as Polianthes tuberosa, is a highly fragrant flower native to Mexico. With its delicate white petals and intoxicating scent, it has captivated people's senses for centuries. The tuberose was first domesticated by the Aztecs, who referred to it as "omixochitl" or "bone flower" and used it in religious ceremonies. In the 16th century, Spanish conquistadors brought the flower to Europe, where it became popular among royalty and the upper classes.
In Indian culture, the tuberose is a symbol of purity and is commonly used in weddings and religious ceremonies to adorn hair and garlands, signifying beauty and auspiciousness. It is also used in traditional Indian medicine to promote emotional well-being. In Hawaii, the tuberose is a favourite for leis and is known as kupaloke in the Hawaiian language. The sweet, strong, and long-lasting fragrance of the flower, along with its beautiful luminescence, has made it a popular choice for these traditional garlands.
In Victorian England, the tuberose symbolised dangerous and forbidden pleasures and was often associated with seduction and sensuality. It was also used in funeral rites, as well as in Hawaiian wedding ceremonies. Tuberose was also important in ancient Egypt, where it was associated with the goddess Isis and used in funeral rites to invoke protection for the deceased on their journey to the afterlife.
Today, the tuberose continues to be celebrated for its aromatic and therapeutic properties, as well as its skin-nourishing benefits. It is a popular ingredient in modern-day beauty products and perfumes, where its rich, heady aroma adds depth and sensuality to compositions.
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History of tuberose in perfumery
Tuberose, a native Mexican flower, was introduced to Europe and Asia via colonial trade routes in the 16th and 17th centuries. The Spaniards discovered the flower when they arrived in Mexico and brought it back to Europe, where it quickly gained popularity. In 1632, Father Théophile Minuti introduced it to Lower Provence, and it became so popular that the date of its arrival was recorded.
Tuberose has been an integral part of perfumery for centuries, with its powerful, intoxicating, and bewitching aroma. Its complexity evokes an array of other flowers, such as narcissus, gardenia, frangipani, and tiare. The absolute extracted from tuberose is an olfactory treasure, with its rich and multifaceted profile. Its fragrance combines sweet honeyed nuances reminiscent of beeswax or gingerbread, due to the presence of butyric acid. The absolute is also prized for its medicinal freshness, imparted by compounds such as methyl salicylate.
The flower's cultural significance adds to its allure, with intriguing myths and practices surrounding it. In Renaissance Italy and India, the flower's aroma was considered so potent and erotically fragrant that unmarried women were forbidden to approach blooming tuberose fields, for fear of provoking sensual thoughts. Tuberose was also used ceremonially by the Aztecs, who incorporated it into their ritualistic chocolate drinks and used its blossoms to make necklaces and perfumed wreaths for their celebrations.
In perfumery, tuberose is often used as a heart or base note, adding a carnal, captivating floral touch to fragrances. Its intensity and mysterious character make it a favoured ingredient for perfumes designed for special occasions and elegant evenings. The process of extracting tuberose essence has evolved significantly over time, from the traditional cold enfleurage technique to modern solvent extraction methods.
Tuberose continues to be a precious and sought-after note in contemporary perfume compositions, with its rich and exotic aroma. Its versatility allows perfumers to create nuanced modern twists, such as pairing the flower's creamy opulence with intriguing notes like eucalyptus.
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Popular tuberose fragrances
Tuberose, a flower native to Central America and southern Mexico, has been used in perfumery for centuries. The flower's powerful, intoxicating aroma is characterised by green, floral, lactonic, and narcotic facets. The absolute extracted from the tuberose is highly prized in the world of perfumery.
Fracas by Robert Piguet
Fracas is a bold, rich, and sensual representation of tuberose. It is a popular choice among those who love tuberose fragrances.
Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
This fragrance offers a nuanced modern twist to tuberose by pairing the flower's creamy opulence with intriguing notes like eucalyptus.
Do Son by Diptyque
Inspired by the tuberose gardens in Vietnam, this fragrance evokes the freshness of tuberose flowers in a trio with jasmine and orange blossom.
Poison by Dior
Poison combines tuberose with spicy and oriental notes to create an intense signature fragrance.
Tubéreuse Criminelle by Lutens
This bold fragrance blends tuberose with notes of mint and camphor for a surprising and addictive effect.
Gabrielle Essence by Chanel
Gabrielle Essence combines tuberose flower with jasmine and orange blossom notes for a radiant fragrance.
Tuberose Gardenia by Estée Lauder
This fragrance from Estée Lauder's private collection offers a beautiful accord of tuberose and gardenia accompanied by numerous other floral notes. The vanilla in the bouquet adds a gourmand touch.
Good Girl Gone by Killian
Good Girl Gone offers an overdose of rare, narcotic floral notes, including tuberose.
Tuberose Le Jour by Aerin
Inspired by tuberose fields at dusk, this limited-edition fragrance explores tuberose in its natural environment, using exceptional raw materials.
Michael by Michael Kors
Michael by Michael Kors is a popular tuberose fragrance that may have been discontinued.
Twilly d'Hermès
Twilly d'Hermès is a daring fragrance that combines striking ginger and sensual tuberose with oriental and spicy notes.
Gucci Bloom
Gucci Bloom is a light and fresh take on tuberose, making it an easy choice for everyday wear.
These fragrances showcase the versatility and popularity of tuberose in perfumery, offering a range of interpretations that highlight the flower's unique and captivating scent.
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How tuberose is grown and harvested
Tuberose, or Polianthes tuberosa, is a fragrant, night-blooming plant native to Mexico. It is a popular addition to gardens and indoor spaces due to its sweet-smelling flowers that grow in spikes. The plant is also known for its therapeutic properties and is commonly used in perfumes, cosmetics, and traditional medicine. With the right care, tuberose can bloom year after year.
Growing Tuberose
Tuberose is typically grown from bulbs, although it can also be propagated from seeds or division. When planting bulbs, place them about 4-6 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart in well-drained soil. For outdoor planting, choose a sunny spot, while indoor planting requires bright light and protection from drafts. Seeds can be started indoors in early spring and then transplanted outdoors when they are large enough. Division involves carefully separating the roots of mature plants to create new ones.
To promote healthy growth, keep the soil consistently moist before and during the blooming period, which typically occurs in late summer. Fertilize regularly and provide support for the flower spikes, as they can become heavy. Tuberose thrives in warm weather but can be grown in cooler regions with sufficient sunlight.
Harvesting and Preservation
Tuberose flowers are typically harvested when the first spike begins to open, releasing their fragrant scent. Cut the spikes and remove the lower leaves to prevent waterlogging. To preserve the flowers for the winter, lift the rhizomes before the first frost and store them indoors. They can be kept in a cool, dry location or potted plants can be placed in loose, unsealed plastic bags in a cool basement. With proper care, tuberose plants can be enjoyed for years to come.
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The chemical composition of tuberose
The scent of tuberose is due to a complex mixture of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), including monoterpenoids, sesquiterpenoids, and benzene derivatives. Tuberose's fragrance combines sweet honeyed notes reminiscent of beeswax or gingerbread due to the presence of butyric acid. The absolute is also rich in compounds such as methyl salicylate, which gives it a medicinal freshness, and lactones like delta nonalactone and jasmine lactone, which enhance its creamy and tropical characteristics.
Tuberose absolute has a complex chemical composition that contains alcohols, aromatic esters, traces of indole, eugenol, and tuberone (a ketone). The specific composition and relative amounts of these compounds can vary depending on factors such as the species of plant, soil conditions, climate, and the time of year the flowers are harvested.
Phytochemical analyses of tuberose have identified many bioactive compounds in different parts of the plant, such as petals, stamens, and ovaries. These analyses use techniques like gas chromatography and mass spectrometry to identify the chemical constituents. One study identified 37 compounds in tuberose flowers, mainly volatile compounds such as terpenes, hydrocarbons, alcohols, and esters. Some key compounds found in tuberose include indole, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, jasmine lactone, and methyl benzoate.
The scent of tuberose is described as an intense, sweet, and indolic fragrance with green nuances. It is a mesmerizing white flower with a powerful, intoxicating aroma that evokes other flowers such as narcissus, gardenia, and frangipani. The absolute extracted from tuberose is highly valued in perfumery for its rich and complex olfactory profile.
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Frequently asked questions
Tuberose fragrance is a popular floral note in perfumery known for its rich, heady, sweet, and intoxicating scent. It is often described as narcotic and is commonly combined with notes of musk, vanilla, and cedar.
Some examples of tuberose fragrances include:
- Fracas by Robert Piguet
- Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
- Michael by Michael Kors
- Do Son by Diptyque
- Tubéreuse Impériale by BDK Parfums
- Tuberose Gardenia by Estée Lauder
- Good Girl Gone by Killian
The tuberose flower is a white flower that originated from Central America, Southern Mexico, and ancient Mexico. It has a powerful and intoxicating aroma, with green, floral, lactonic, and narcotic facets. Tuberose is a fragile flower with five petals per spike, growing to about 3 feet high.
