The Science Of Scents: Uncovering Men's Cologne Basics

Men's colognes are made up of a mixture of synthetic or natural oils, often dissolved in alcohol. All fragrances feature three distinct levels of smell: top notes, heart notes, and base notes. The base notes are the denser molecules, where you'll find most of the musky and masculine scents, lasting for 5-10 hours.

The base notes of men's colognes often include sandalwood, cedar, and vetiver.

What are the different types of men's colognes?

There are several types of men's colognes, each with a unique concentration of essential oils that determines its strength and longevity. Here is a guide to help you understand the different types:

Eau de Cologne:

Eau de Cologne is a light and refreshing fragrance with a low concentration of essential oils, usually containing 2-4% of oils. It is a good choice for summer as it is lighter and less intense.

Eau de Toilette:

Eau de Toilette is slightly stronger than Eau de Cologne, with a higher concentration of essential oils, typically ranging from 5-15%. It is suitable for daily use and can last through the day but not into the evening.

Eau de Parfum:

Eau de Parfum is a more concentrated fragrance with a higher percentage of essential oils, usually containing 15-20% of oils. It is a good choice if you want something that will last longer and have a more intense scent.

Parfum:

Parfum is the strongest and most concentrated type of cologne, with the highest percentage of essential oils (20% or more). It is long-lasting and considered the purest option by fragrance aficionados.

In addition to these main types, there are also some less common variations such as "Eau Fraiche" and "Eau de Parfum Cologne", which have their own unique characteristics.

When choosing a men's cologne, it is important to consider factors such as scent profile, longevity, and occasion. You can find fragrances with fresh and citrusy scents or warmer, woody fragrances. Some colognes are designed for specific seasons, with lighter scents for summer and heavier scents for winter. You can also find colognes suitable for different occasions, such as work, interviews, date nights, or weddings.

Some popular men's colognes include:

• Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani
• Burberry Brit by Burberry
• Versace Man Eau Fraiche by Versace
• L’Eau D’issey Pour Homme by Issey Miyake
• Dior Sauvage
• Creed Aventus
• Chanel Bleu de Chanel
• Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit De L'Homme

How do you choose the right concentration?

Choosing the right concentration of cologne is essential. Too light, and it will fade without a trace; too strong, and it will be overpowering and give you a headache. The concentration of a cologne is determined by the ratio of oil to alcohol. The greater the ratio of oil to alcohol, the stronger, more persistent, and more expensive the cologne will be.

The concentration of a cologne is also what differentiates the different types of colognes. These include:

• Eau Fraiche: The lowest concentration of oils (1-3%) and diluted with mostly water. Eau Fraiche usually stays on the skin for 1-2 hours, making it better suited for a temporary post-shower spritz.
• Eau de Cologne: A low oil concentration (2-4%) and a fleeting scent (usually 2-4 hours before evaporation). Eau de cologne is diluted predominantly with alcohol, so it is more three-dimensional. It is a solid choice for a summer fragrance.
• Eau de Toilette: An oil concentration of 5-15%. These scents can see you through the day, but not into the evening. They are ideal for the office, as fresh top notes such as citrus are given centre stage.
• Eau de Parfum: An oil concentration of 15-20%. These fuller-bodied scents usually include notes such as leather or woods and are more sophisticated. They are longer-lasting and more expensive.
• Parfum/Extrait de Parfum: The highest concentration of oil (20-30%) and therefore the purest option. Parfum has a bold presence that lingers on the skin until washed off.

When choosing a concentration, it is also important to consider the occasion and the desired longevity of the scent. For example, a light cologne such as an Eau de Cologne may be more suitable for the office, while a stronger scent like an Eau de Parfum may be preferred for a date night or special occasion. Additionally, the season can play a role in the concentration you choose. Lighter concentrations are typically better suited for spring and summer, while stronger concentrations are more at home in autumn and winter.

Finally, it is worth noting that the longevity of a cologne also depends on individual factors such as body chemistry and skin moisture levels. Therefore, it is always a good idea to test a cologne on your skin before purchasing to ensure that it performs as expected.

What are the different fragrance families?

There are four main fragrance families: woody, floral, amber, and fresh. These families each occupy a respective space on the Fragrance Wheel, a diagram that illustrates the four scent families and their corresponding subfamilies in relation to one another. The Fragrance Wheel was invented by scent expert Michael Edwards.

Woody

The woody family includes scents that are warm, opulent, and powdery, mixing incense-like fragrances such as sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Woody fragrances are typically associated with men's fragrances but have become a favourite for women's and unisex fragrances too.

Floral

The floral family is one of the most common and popular fragrance families. Floral fragrances typically take on a feminine characteristic and can smell like freshly cut flowers or soft and powdery. This family includes four subcategories: tropical or sweet fruity scents, traditional fresh floral notes, elegant soft floral, and slightly spicy floral oriental.

Amber

The amber family, previously known as "oriental", includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes. Amber scents can be described as “sensual,” warm and “exotic.” This family includes three subcategories: the slightly floral soft amber, the spicy warmth of oriental, and the deep, rich musk of woody oriental.

Fresh

The fresh family is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed with underlying woody notes. Fresh fragrances are usually light, bright, and clean, with citrus and fruity top notes. This family includes four subcategories: water, aromatic, green, and citrus.

What are the top, middle and base notes?

The top, middle and base notes of a fragrance are the individual scent layers that, when combined, form a unified, pleasing perfume. They are the building blocks of a fragrance and contribute to its overall scent profile.

Top notes, sometimes referred to as head notes, are the first impression of a perfume. They are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume and usually evaporate quickly, lingering for only the first 5 to 15 minutes. Their main purpose is to give off an initial scent and then transition smoothly into the next part of the fragrance. As a result, top notes tend to be fresh and sharp with a lighter molecular structure. Examples of top notes include citrus oils such as lemon, orange and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.

Middle notes, or heart notes, will make their presence known as the top note fades. They make up the heart of a perfume and determine the dominant aroma. They are well-rounded and pleasant, with an aroma that lingers longer than the top notes before introducing the base notes. Middle notes generally include oils with an herbal aroma or floral notes. Examples of middle notes include jasmine, rose, cinnamon, lavender and vanilla.

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and kick in about 30 minutes after application. They are rich, heavy and long-lasting, lingering on the skin for upwards of 6 hours. They are the underlying aroma throughout the wear of the perfume and include musk, woody and vanilla notes. Examples of base notes include patchouli, sandalwood, amber and musk.

The key to creating a balanced perfume is by balancing the aroma notes. Generally, middle notes make up about 50-75% of the blend, top notes make up about 20-40%, and base notes make up about 5-10%.

How do you apply cologne?

Applying cologne is an art form. Done properly, it can make you feel more attractive and confident. Done incorrectly, and you risk becoming "that guy" who wears too much cologne. Here is a comprehensive guide on how to apply cologne:

How to Apply Cologne

• Apply cologne directly to dry skin immediately after showering. The shower cleanses your body of any other scents and opens your pores, helping the scent absorb.
• Hold the spray bottle 3–6 inches from your body. Any closer and you risk over-applying; any further and you will likely under-apply.
• Apply cologne to heated areas of your body, such as the neck, chest, pulse points, forearms, or inner elbows. The heat helps diffuse the scent throughout the day and allows it to meld with your body chemistry to develop your signature scent.
• Start with a light application. Choose one area, such as the neck or forearms, and apply one spray. If your scent fades quickly, choose another area and apply cologne there the next time. You can ask a friend or family member for their opinion if you're unsure.
• Re-apply cologne if needed, such as if you're going out in the evening. Simply dab a little onto your pulse points.

Common Mistakes When Applying Cologne

• Avoid spraying the fragrance on your clothing. This prevents it from mixing with your natural oils, which gives the cologne its unique quality. It can also harm certain fabrics.
• Don't splash the cologne on your skin. This is an easy way to over-apply. Instead, place one finger over the opening of the bottle, tip it upside down, and dab the scent on your body.
• Don't spray a mist cloud and walk through it. This renders the cologne almost useless, as most of it ends up on the floor.
• Don't rub the cologne into your skin. This breaks the molecular bond in the fragrance, making the scent fade faster.
• Avoid applying too much cologne. A man's fragrance should be a subtle enhancement to his image.

Tips for Choosing and Testing Cologne

• Research colognes online. Use a fragrance wheel to determine which scent families might appeal to you.
• Use cologne testers or scent blotters to test fragrances. Spray two or three times in a downward motion onto the blotter.
• Test the fragrance on your skin. Spray one cologne type on each wrist and, if testing more than two, spray onto your inner elbows as well.
• Give the scent time to develop. Wait 30 minutes, then smell each fragrance again. Cleanse your nostrils with coffee in between each sniff.
• Store cologne in a dark, room-temperature place. Avoid exposing it to direct sunlight or fluctuations in temperature, as this can shorten its shelf life.

Tips for Applying Solid Cologne

• Target pulse points such as the wrists and neck.
• Start with a small amount of product for each wrist and the neck, then adjust as needed.

Frequently asked questions