The Intriguing Balsamic Scents In Cologne: A Guide

Balsamic notes in cologne are derived from the Latin word 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm. They are characterised by a sweet, woody, and warm scent, often likened to balsamic vinegar. These notes are created by using balsams and resins in perfume compositions, which are among the oldest raw materials used in perfumery. They are known for their soothing, soft, and sensual character, adding depth and opulence to fragrances. While balsamic notes can be recreated with various ingredients, the most representative materials are benzoin, derived from the Styrax tree, and balsam of Tolu, produced mainly in Colombia. These notes are versatile and can be found in both masculine and feminine fragrances, adding a subtle, exotic, and oriental dimension.

The etymology of 'balsamic'

The term "balsamic" is derived from the Latin "balsamum" and the Greek "βάλσαμον" or "balsamon", which convey the idea of something restorative or curative. The Latin "balsamum" translates to fragrant balm, referring to the residue found in the barrels used to store vinegar. The term "balsamic" was first used in this context in 1747 to differentiate a particular type of vinegar.

The ultimate origin of the word "balsamum" is the Ancient Hebrew-Phoenician "בשׂם" or "bāśām/besem", meaning "perfume or spice". The word "balsamic" has been used in English since the 17th century, with meanings such as health-giving, pertaining to balsam, yielding balsam, and aromatic, fragrant.

Balsamic notes are highly regarded in perfumery, where they are known for their soothing, soft, warm, and sensual character. The term "balsamic" in this context refers to the use of balms and resins, which are among the oldest raw materials used in the composition of fragrances. These notes are created by various balsams, including Peru Balsam, Copahu Balsam, Tolu Balsam, and benzoin, as well as other ingredients such as myrrh and frankincense.

The difference between balsam and resin

The term balsamic is derived from the Latin word 'balsamum', which translates to fragrant balm. It has nothing to do with vinegar, despite the association with balsamic vinegar. In the context of cologne, balsamic notes refer to the use of balms and resins, which are raw materials that complement other scents like vanilla and add a mysterious nuance to the fragrance. These balms and resins are highly valued in perfumery and are often found in oriental and amber perfumes.

Now, let's delve into the differences between balsam and resin:

Balsam:

Balsam is an exudate, or a secretion, from various plants, typically trees. The name comes from the Latin 'balsamum', meaning the gum of the balsam tree, which originates from the Semitic, Aramaic, Arabic, and Hebrew words for 'spice' or 'perfume'. While all balsams are considered oleoresins or resins in a broader sense, not all resins are classified as balsams. Balsams can come from sources other than trees, such as flower pods or bushy twigs, like vanilla orchids or the Mediterranean rockrose. They have a sweeter, softer, and gentler scent compared to resins. Examples of balsams include benzoin, Peru balsam, tolu balsam, and labdanum.

Resin:

Resin, in its most specific definition, refers to a hydrocarbon secretion of many plants, particularly coniferous trees. Resin is typically a viscous liquid composed mainly of volatile terpenes. Resinous products can also be mixtures of gum or mucilaginous substances, known as gum resins, such as mastic gum. Resins often have a more defined, characteristic scent and are commonly used in incense, imparting a medicinal quality due to their antiseptic properties. Examples of resins include frankincense, myrrh, opoponax, and styrax.

While there is some overlap between balsams and resins, with both being important in the world of perfumery, the key distinction lies in their form and source. Balsams can come from a wider range of plants and have a softer, sweeter scent, while resins are typically associated with coniferous trees and have a more defined, characteristic aroma.

Examples of balsamic notes

The term balsamic comes from the Latin 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm. It has nothing to do with vinegar, despite the name. Instead, it refers to the balm residue found in the barrels in which balsamic vinegar is stored.

Balsamic notes are highly regarded in perfumery and are known for their soothing, soft, warm, and sensual character. They are strong and persistent notes that envelop a fragrance, adding a subtle, exotic, and mysterious touch. They are often found in the heart or base notes of perfumes and are excellent fixatives, seamlessly blending with almost any fragrance.

• Benzoin: Derived from the Styrax tree, benzoin has a very sweet, milky, and spicy scent, with hints of vanilla and incense. Siamese benzoin, native to Thailand, is the most valued by perfumers due to its rarity.
• Balsam of Tolu: Produced mainly in Colombia, this balsam has a warm and woody smell with sweet and unctuous tones.
• Balsam of Peru: Native to South America, this balsam has a sweet and almost caramelized olfactory sensation, with waxy and leathery undertones, along with animal notes.
• Copahu Balsam: Copahu balm, derived from the copayer tree, is more aromatic and woodier, with spicy and sweet notes.
• Myrrh: A gum-resin with a sensual, woody, and almost fruity scent. It is considered one of the world's most exquisite and precious perfume ingredients.
• Frankincense: A gum resin with intensely woody, fruity, and earthy elements.
• Labdanum: Delivered by cistus leaves, labdanum gum evokes an amber and animalised scent.
• Peru Balsam: Found in cosmetic products, candles, cough syrups, and perfumes, Peru balsam has a sweet olfactory profile with touches of vanilla, cinnamon, and earthy, bitter aspects.
• Styrax Balsam: A liquid raw material comprised of resin, styrol, cinnamic acid, and styracine. It has an intensely vanilla, floral, leathery, rich, and milky odour profile.

How to use balsamic notes in perfumery

Balsamic notes are highly regarded in perfumery and are known for their soothing, soft, warm, and sensual character. The term balsamic comes from the Latin word 'balsamum', which translates to fragrant balm. These notes are often used to complement vanilla and add a mysterious nuance to a fragrance. They are also excellent fixatives and can be found in both masculine and feminine fragrances.

When creating perfumes with balsamic notes, perfumers often use balms and resins such as benzoin, Cistus Labdanum, myrrh, Peru balsam, Styrax, Tolu Balsam, and Copahu balsam. These raw materials are known for their deep, sweet, and woody scents. For example, benzoin, which comes from the Styrax tree, has a sweet, milky, and spicy scent that evokes the warmth of vanilla and incense. On the other hand, myrrh has a woody and slightly fruity scent with incense and licorice nuances.

Balsamic notes can also be recreated with other ingredients such as myrrh, frankincense, and labdanum gum. These ingredients add even deeper and more persistent scents with earthy or leathery nuances. They blend perfectly with floral or fruity notes, adding a touch of sensuality and mystery to the fragrance.

When composing a perfume with balsamic notes, perfumers typically use these notes in the heart or base of the fragrance. This is because balsamic notes are potent and tenacious, and they help to fix and enhance the other notes in the composition.

Overall, balsamic notes are a valuable tool for perfumers, adding depth, warmth, and sensuality to a fragrance while complementing and enhancing other notes.

The history of balsamic notes

Balsamic notes are created by balms and resins, which are among the oldest raw materials used in perfumery. These natural compounds are secreted by plants, usually trees, and are also known as gum, resin, or tear. The liquid substance dries and hardens when exposed to air, releasing a potent odour.

The most commonly used balms and resins in perfumery include benzoin, derived from the Styrax tree; Tolu balsam, mainly produced in Colombia; Peru balsam, native to South America; and Copahu balsam, which has a more aromatic and woody character.

Balsamic notes are highly valued in the world of fine perfumes for their soft, warm, and sensual qualities. They are known to complement vanilla notes and add a mysterious touch to any fragrance. These notes are often found in the heart or base of a perfume and are used in both masculine and feminine fragrances.

In summary, the history of balsamic notes in cologne is rooted in the ancient world, with natural balms and resins providing a soothing and warm sensory experience that has endured through the ages.

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