The Musk Fragrance: A Sensual, Complex Scent

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. It is a large molecule that acts as a fixative, helping fragrances last longer. Musk gets its name from the Late Greek 'moskhos', from Persian 'mushk' and Sanskrit 'muṣka' (meaning 'testicle'), derived from the Proto-Indo-European noun 'múh₂s' meaning 'mouse'. The musk pod was originally obtained from the glands of male musk deer, but due to ecological, ethical, and economic reasons, synthetic musks are now used almost exclusively. Synthetic musks, sometimes called white musks, are created through organic synthesis and are essential for fragrance diffusion and tenacity. They have a pure, linear, powdery, and enveloping note that increases diffusion and adds roundness to fragrances.

The history of musk in perfumery

Musk, derived from the Late Greek 'moskhos', has been a key constituent in perfumes since its discovery, valued for its ability to give a perfume long-lasting power as a fixative. The name originates from the Persian 'mushk' and Sanskrit 'muṣka' (lit. 'testicle'), derived from the Proto-Indo-European noun 'múh₂s' meaning 'mouse'. The deer gland from which the substance was originally obtained was thought to resemble a scrotum.

Musk was originally extracted from the musk deer, a mammal living in the high mountains of Central Asia. The musk is a glandular secretion found in a pouch under the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer. The reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod turns into a black granular material called "musk grain" when dried, which is then tinctured with alcohol. The aroma of the tincture gives a pleasant odour only after it is considerably diluted.

The use of musk in perfumery dates back to ancient times, with some of the first references pointing to Arab and Byzantine perfume makers of the 6th century. It was also generously used by the caliphs of Baghdad and highly regarded among the Arabs. This fragrant material was even added to the mortared walls of mosques during their construction, to emanate a wonderful fragrance when warmed by the sun. Al-Kindi, the famous Philosopher of the Arabs, mentioned musk in many of his perfume recipes, making it one of the most prized luxury goods imported from the East.

Musk was also used in rituals to ward off negative vibrations and as a medical remedy. The Arab and Tibetan healers used it as a stimulant for male health, while Ayurvedic practitioners employed it in the treatment of cardiac, mental, and neurological disorders. It still holds importance in traditional Chinese medicine, being included in the recipes of more than 300 different medicines.

The natural musk trade has been controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) due to the endangerment of the musk deer. However, illegal poaching and trading continue, with a black-market price of almost $45,000 per kilogram, making it one of the most expensive natural products in the world.

Due to ethical concerns and the high cost of natural musk, perfumers turned to synthetic alternatives in the late 19th century. In 1888, the scientist Albert Baur first discovered an artificial musk, nitro-musk, while experimenting with TNT explosives. Synthetic musks, also called "white musks", are now used almost exclusively in perfumery and cosmetics. These synthetic musks can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds.

Today, musk remains an essential component in perfumery, providing a subtle yet powerful scent that brings depth and warmth to fragrances.

How musk is extracted from animals

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name originates from the Late Greek 'moskhos', from Persian 'mushk' and Sanskrit 'muṣka' (lit. 'testicle'), derived from the Proto-Indo-European noun 'múh₂s' meaning "mouse". The deer gland from which the substance was originally obtained was thought to resemble a scrotum.

Natural musk is obtained from the male musk deer, specifically from a gland in a pouch, or sac, under the skin of the abdomen. The musk pod is normally obtained by killing the male deer through traps laid in the wild. The reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod is dried and turns into a black granular material called "musk grain", which is then tinctured with alcohol. The aroma of the tincture gives a pleasant odour only after it is considerably diluted.

The best method of preparing the commercial musk is to dry the pod by sunning and airing immediately after it is taken from the animal. Natural musk is usually packed in hermetically-sealed vessels and wooden boxes lined with tin foil because of its powerful diffusion of odour.

The extraction technique involves lubricating the pouch and inserting a kind of silver spoon to gently extract the grains. This method, however, is not very satisfying and was practised on the animal without anaesthesia.

The musk grain is then treated in the form of tinctures. From the musk grains, it is necessary to prepare cold tinctures and, more rarely, hot infusions with 96° alcohol. These products are then improved by ageing in huge bottles called Dames-Jeannes for at least 18 months.

The main odour compound of natural deer musk is muscone, which is synthesized from citronellal, a primary odour component found in lime leaves and lemongrass (citronella).

Synthetic musk

The global production of polycyclic musk is approximately 1 million pounds per year, and 80% of randomly sampled personal care products contained at least one synthetic musk. Synthetic musks are rarely listed on labels since fragrance ingredients are often not disclosed.

The different types of musk

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name originates from the Late Greek 'moskhos', from Persian 'mushk' and Sanskrit 'muṣka' (lit. 'testicle'), derived from the Proto-Indo-European noun 'múh₂s' meaning "mouse". The deer gland from which the original musk scent was derived was thought to resemble a scrotum.

The original musk scent was derived from the glandular secretions of the male musk deer. However, due to the animal cruelty and high cost involved in harvesting this substance, synthetic musk has been used almost exclusively since the late 19th century.

There are three major classes of synthetic musk:

• Aromatic nitro musks: These used to be found in soaps, detergents, and lotions, but are no longer used due to concerns over their potential impact on people's hormones.
• Polycyclic musk compounds: This type of musk is still used by a few laundry companies. It has a fresh scent, but the molecules it is made from are not very eco-friendly.
• Macrocyclic musk compounds: This is the type of synthetic musk most commonly used today. It contains the muscone molecule, floral exaltolide, and powdery ambrettolide.

In addition to these synthetic musks, there are also plant-based sources of musk, including the musk flower of western North America, the muskwood of Australia, and the musk seeds from India.

Musk fragrances can vary greatly, with different types being described as powdery, floral, animalistic, coppery, cottony, or woody.

Musk in modern perfumery

Synthetic musk, sometimes called "white musk", is created through organic synthesis and offers a pure, linear, powdery, and enveloping note. It is essential for fragrance diffusion and tenacity, increasing the longevity of perfumes. There are now hundreds of synthetic musks available, with a variety of scents, from elegant and woody to sweet and vanilla-like. These synthetic musks are versatile and can be paired with a wide range of other perfume notes, including citrus, clean floral, fruity, spicy, and gourmand notes.

The shift to synthetic musk has also allowed for the creation of cleaner, fresher fragrances. While natural musk has a strong, animalic scent, synthetic musk can provide a more subtle, skin-like aroma, reminiscent of clean laundry or a baby's skin. This type of musk is often used in detergents and other household products, giving them their characteristic "clean" smell.

The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk is muscone, which has a base of citronellol. Other synthetic musk alternatives include angelica root, musk mallow, and indoles—oils found in flowers, mainly jasmine, that create an earthy, animalic tone.

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