Katrina Rosales
Fracas, a 1948 perfume created by French perfumer Germaine Cellier, is a floral fragrance for women. The top notes of the perfume include peach, orange blossom, hyacinth, green leaves, mandarin orange, and bergamot. The middle notes are tuberose, jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus, narcissus, lily-of-the-valley, and carnation, among others. The base notes are musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar. The scent of tuberose, a pungent small white flower, is a key ingredient in Fracas, with other notes amplifying its effect.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Creator | Germaine Cellier |
| Launched | 1948 |
| Top notes | Peach, Orange Blossom, Hiacynth, Green Leaves, Mandarin Orange, Bergamot, Tuberose |
| Middle notes | Jasmine, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Narcissus, Lily-of-the-Valley, Carnation, White Iris, Violet Root, Coriander, Rose Geranium, Rose |
| Base notes | Musk, Amber, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Cedar |
| Other ingredients | Civet, Jonquil |
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What You'll Learn
- Top notes: peach, orange blossom, hyacinth, green leaves, mandarin orange, and bergamot
- Middle notes: Tuberose, jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus, narcissus, lily-of-the-valley, and carnation
- Base notes: musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar
- Civet: a synthetic ingredient that adds power to the fragrance
- Floral, animalic, green, and sweet
Top notes: peach, orange blossom, hyacinth, green leaves, mandarin orange, and bergamot
The top notes of Fracas perfume by Robert Piguet are peach, orange blossom, hyacinth, green leaves, mandarin orange, and bergamot. These top notes are the first impression of the perfume's scent, and they are what you will smell immediately after applying the perfume.
Peach, or Prunus persica, is a deciduous tree native to China that bears juicy, aromatic, and sweet fruits. The aromatic sweetness of peaches has inspired many perfumes. In perfumery, the peach note is synthetically reproduced using lactones to deliver fresh and fruity nuances. It adds a velvety suppleness to olfactory harmony and is commonly used to ground chypre-based compositions.
Orange blossom, or Citrus aurantium, is one of the most fragrant flowers, making it indispensable in the perfume industry. The orange blossom absolute has a deep and sweet fragrance reminiscent of the heady scent of fresh flowers. It beautifully complements other citrusy notes and acts as a natural fixative, allowing the original composition to last longer while retaining its true fragrance.
Hyacinth, or Hyacinthus orientalis, is a classic feminine perfume ingredient. It has a harsh greenness with a perverse undercurrent of suppressed erotic energy. It is described as an oddly cool scent with a cloudy, leaden note of musk and a powdery iris that recalls overcast Parisian skies in early spring.
Mandarin orange, or Citrus reticulate, is a juicy citrus fruit that is the main symbol of the Chinese New Year. It is sweeter than other citrus fruits and has a bright orange skin that peels off easily. The essential oil of mandarin orange is very fragrant and is used in perfumery to create floral compositions and colognes.
Bergamot is a versatile citrus fruit frequently used in perfumery. It is similar in scent to a sweet orange but also has a fresh fruity quality with spicy hints. The essential oil is extracted through steam distillation of the fruit's peel, and it adds vibrancy, zesty energy, and distinctive freshness to fragrances.
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Middle notes: Tuberose, jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus, narcissus, lily-of-the-valley, and carnation
The middle notes of Fracas perfume are Tuberose, Jasmine, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Narcissus, Lily-of-the-Valley, and Carnation. These notes form the heart of the fragrance, bringing warmth and sensuality to the perfume.
Tuberose, often called the "queen of the night", is a flowering plant native to Mexico. Its captivating, powerful, and sensual scent has been used in perfumery for centuries. The olfactory profile of tuberose is complex, with a sweet, narcotic fragrance that evokes floral and animal nuances, alongside creamy, milky accents. Tuberose is often used as a heart or base note in perfumes, adding a floral touch.
Jasmine is another key middle note in Fracas. About 80% of fragrances created in the first half of the last century contained natural jasmine. The creamy scent of jasmine is a vital part of any Chanel fragrance. The most important species of jasmine in perfumery is white jasmine, also known as common jasmine, which can be found in the wild in the Himalayas and has been widely cultivated in France, China, India, Egypt, and other countries.
Gardenia is a flower that exudes a sweet, heady fragrance. It is often associated with elegance and sophistication, adding a touch of luxury to perfumes.
Osmanthus, or sweet olive, is a plant from the olive family. It has been used for centuries in China to scent tea. Osmanthus flowers have a unique scent with fruity, floral, and tea-like nuances.
Narcissus is a fragrant flower with light floral notes, deep "hypnotic" notes, balmy notes, and woody nuances. There are several species of narcissus that are valued in perfumery, including Narcissus poeticus, Narcissus tazetta, and Narcissus jonquilla. Narcissus Absolute, produced with a traditional method, has a bright green, woody, and deep floral smell with warm nutty shades.
Lily-of-the-valley is a delicate woodland flower with small, milky-white pendants. Its scent is sweet and lemon-tinged, making it a popular choice for brides and wedding guests. While the oil produced by the real flower does not smell like its petals, lily-of-the-valley has been used in fragrances for decades, notably in Dior's Diorissimo.
Carnation is a popular note in indie perfumes, offering a warm and spicy scent. It is often combined with other notes such as vanilla, musk, sandalwood, and cassia.
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Base notes: musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar
Musk, one of the base notes in Fracas, is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. It includes glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. Natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century, when ethical and economic concerns led to the adoption of synthetic musk, which is now used almost exclusively.
Amber, another base note in Fracas, is an accord made up of different notes, usually vanilla, benzoin, and labdanum, with patchouli sometimes included. Amber is extremely common in Western perfumery and is also popular in Middle Eastern perfumery.
Sandalwood, a base note in Fracas, is a parasitic plant that grows by suckering itself to the roots of other trees. It has long been a part of spiritual traditions in India, where its oil is used in rituals and as incense. Sandalwood has a deep, sweet woodiness that is used as a base in as many as 50% of feminine perfumes.
Oakmoss, a base note in Fracas, is a lichen that grows on oak trees throughout Europe and North Africa. It has an earthy, woody, and sensual scent with hints of musk and amber. Oakmoss is an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family and is highly prized by perfumers, although its use is restricted by European regulation due to its potential to irritate skin.
Vetiver, a base note in Fracas, has an earthy, woody, and smoky fragrance with hints of nuts such as hazelnut and peanut. It can also have leathery, green, and grapefruit notes. Vetiver is commonly used as a base note in perfume compositions to add longevity and a woody trail.
Cedar, the final base note in Fracas, is a majestic tree that can reach up to 40 meters in height. It is mainly cultivated in the mountainous regions of the Himalayas, Lebanon, Algeria, and Turkey. Cedar has been a key ingredient in perfumery for centuries, valued for its warm, woody, and resinous scent. The harvesting and processing of cedar for perfumery is a meticulous process aimed at preserving the natural fragrance of the wood.
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Civet: a synthetic ingredient that adds power to the fragrance
Fracas, a 1948 perfume created by French perfumer Germaine Cellier, is a fragrance for women. It is a floral fragrance with top notes of peach, orange blossom, hyacinth, green leaves, mandarin orange, and bergamot. The middle notes include tuberose, jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus, narcissus, lily-of-the-valley, carnation, white iris, violet root, coriander, rose geranium, and rose. The base notes are musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar.
Tuberose is a key ingredient in Fracas, giving it a bold and distinctive character. However, civet, a synthetic ingredient, also adds power to the fragrance. Civet is a synthetic musk with a strong, animalistic odour that becomes pleasant at extreme dilutions. It is a pheromone sourced from the African civet and is closely related to muscone, the principal compound found in musk. Civetone, the main constituent of civet oil, can now be synthesized from precursor chemicals found in palm oil.
The inclusion of civet in Fracas is notable as it contributes to the perfume's unique character and longevity. Civet is known for its pervasive, tenacious, and musky scent. When used in perfumery, civet can enhance the depth and intensity of a fragrance. Its animalistic quality adds a layer of complexity, making the scent more intriguing and memorable.
In the case of Fracas, the synthetic civet is carefully blended with other ingredients to create a sophisticated and glamorous fragrance. The perfumer's skill lies in balancing the civet with the other notes, ensuring that it enhances without overwhelming. The result is a bold and provocative perfume that makes a statement without being overly aggressive.
While civet is a controversial ingredient due to its animalistic origins, modern perfumery has developed synthetic alternatives that replicate the scent without the need for animal products. These synthetic versions allow perfumers to continue using the distinctive character of civet while adhering to ethical and sustainability standards.
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Floral, animalic, green, and sweet
Fracas by Robert Piguet is a floral fragrance for women, first launched in 1948. The perfumer, Germaine Cellier, sought to create a scent that would make its wearer feel like a bombshell, with an unsettling effect on everyone that encountered it.
The fragrance is known for its tuberose notes, a pungent small white flower, which gives it a carnal, floral quality. Cellier paired the tuberose with a large amount of Tunisian orange blossom to cut through the raunchiness, as well as jasmine, gardenia, and other floral notes. The combination of these floral elements with the animalic, green, and sweet notes of civet and fruit creates a unique and powerful scent.
The top notes of Fracas include peach, orange blossom, hyacinth, green leaves, mandarin orange, and bergamot. The middle notes are a blend of tuberose, jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus, narcissus, lily-of-the-valley, carnation, white iris, violet root, coriander, rose geranium, and rose. The base notes are musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar, adding depth and complexity to the fragrance.
The result is a captivating and bold perfume that has become a long-time trendsetter, with a refined simplicity that makes it glamorous and comfortable to wear.
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Frequently asked questions
The top notes in Fracas include peach, orange blossom, hyacinth, green leaves, mandarin orange, and bergamot.
The middle notes in Fracas include tuberose, jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus, narcissus, lily-of-the-valley, carnation, white iris, violet root, coriander, rose geranium, and rose.
The base notes in Fracas include musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar.
Fracas also contains civet, jasmine, French jasmine, Italian iris root butter, violet leaf, and synthetic C18, among other ingredients.
