Seamus Hammond
Chanel No. 5 is a perfume created by French couturier Gabrielle Coco Chanel and French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921. It is considered a masterpiece in the world of perfumery, with a unique blend of notes that form a complex, harmonious whole. The perfume has a rich history, with Coco Chanel herself appearing in its first advertisement in 1937. Over the years, Chanel No. 5 has been associated with iconic figures such as Marilyn Monroe and has been the subject of various advertising campaigns. With its elegant and timeless scent, Chanel No. 5 has become a signature fragrance for many, leaving a lasting impact on the world of fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Year of Launch | 1921 |
| Perfumer | Ernest Beaux |
| Fragrance Notes | Aldehydes, Neroli, Bergamot, Peach, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Jasmine, Iris, Lily of the Valley, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Vanilla, Patchouli |
| Fragrance Type | Floral, Woody, Vanilla |
| Fragrance Intensity | Heavy |
| Celebrity Endorsements | Marilyn Monroe, Margot Robbie, Gisele Bündchen |
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What You'll Learn
Chanel No. 5's history
Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Chanel No. 5 was created in 1921 by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux, whom Chanel commissioned to develop a new fragrance. Chanel's vision was to create a distinctly modern fragrance that would appeal to the flapper and celebrate the seemingly liberated feminine spirit of the 1920s.
In the early 1920s, Chanel's lover, Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich Romanov of Russia, introduced her to Beaux on the French Riviera. Beaux was the master perfumer at A. Rallet and Company, the official perfumer to the Russian imperial family. Chanel presented him with small glass vials containing sample scents numbered 1 to 5 and 20 to 24, and she chose the fifth vial, deciding to keep the name as she believed it would bring good luck.
Beaux worked from the rose and jasmine base of Rallet N°1, altering it to make it cleaner and more daring, reminiscent of the polar freshness he had experienced during his time stationed in the Arctic. He experimented with modern synthetics, adding his own invention, "Rose E.B.", and notes derived from a new jasmine source called Jasophore.
Chanel No. 5's bottle design has been an important part of the product's branding. Chanel envisioned a design that would be an antidote to the over-elaborate, precious fussiness of the crystal fragrance bottles then in fashion. Instead, her bottle would be "pure transparency... an invisible bottle", inspired by the rectangular bevelled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles favoured by her lover, Arthur "Boy" Capel.
Chanel herself was the first face of the fragrance, appearing in an advertisement published by Harper's Bazaar in 1937. The perfume has since been promoted by celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe, who famously said she wore only Chanel No. 5 to bed, and Gisele Bündchen and Michiel Huisman, who starred in an advertising campaign in 2014.
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The scent's composition
Chanel No. 5 is a smooth blend of various notes, making it challenging to identify individual elements. However, the perfume's composition is a complex and harmonious symphony of scents. The top notes include aldehydes, neroli, bergamot, peach, and ylang-ylang, which provide a sweet and creamy opening. The heart notes reveal a rich floral bouquet with velvety rose, deep jasmine, iris, and lily of the valley, adding sophistication and elegance. The base notes, led by sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, vanilla, and patchouli, lend a warm, grounded and slightly woody finish to the fragrance.
The creation of Chanel No. 5 dates back to the early 1920s when Coco Chanel sought to develop a modern fragrance that would appeal to the liberated feminine spirit of the era. Chanel's lover, Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich Romanov of Russia, introduced her to master perfumer Ernest Beaux, who had created scents for the Russian imperial family. Inspired by the polar landscapes during his time in the White Russian army, Beaux aimed to capture a crisp, fresh fragrance.
Beaux built upon the rose and jasmine base of Rallet N°1, the Tsarina Alexandra's favourite scent, to create Chanel No. 5. He altered the composition to make it cleaner and more daring, reminiscent of his Arctic experiences. Beaux also incorporated modern synthetics, including his invention, "Rose E.B.," and a new jasmine source called Jasophore. The result was a unique and modern fragrance that became a timeless classic.
Chanel No. 5 has endured as an iconic and versatile perfume, suitable for any occasion, season, and time of day. Its composition is a harmonious blend of various elements, creating a dense and slightly heavy fragrance. While some may find it challenging to wear due to its strong aldehydes, others admire its elegant, sophisticated, and timeless appeal. The perfume has been associated with notable figures such as Marilyn Monroe, further adding to its allure.
Chanel No. 5's scent composition is a testament to Beaux's perfumery skills, blending florals, citruses, and woody notes seamlessly. The result is a sophisticated and versatile fragrance that has stood the test of time, becoming a signature scent for many and an iconic symbol of Chanel's elegance and refinement.
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The advertising campaigns
Chanel No. 5 has had many advertising campaigns over the years, with the earliest advertising being via word of mouth. Coco Chanel would bring 'tastemakers' to sophisticated dinner parties and spritz them with the perfume. Chanel was also the first face of the fragrance, appearing in an advertisement published by Harper's Bazaar in 1937.
In the 1950s, the model and actress Suzy Parker appeared in an advertisement, photographed by Richard Avedon. She was portrayed as the ideal No. 5 lady of the 1950s: vivacious, joyful, upper class, and impeccably dressed. Ali McGraw, who fronted the Chanel No. 5 for Bath campaign in the 1960s, introduced the scent to a younger demographic with her It-Girl attractiveness and wide-eyed beauty.
In the 1970s, Catherine Deneuve portrayed a strong, glamorous woman in charge of her life, in keeping with the desires of women of that time. Carole Bouquet was the face of the brand in the 1980s, appearing in vibrant print advertisements and romantic television commercials directed by Ridley Scott. In the 1990s, Chanel purchased the rights to a series of prints by Andy Warhol that incorporated the iconic No. 5 bottle, infusing the brand with a dose of pop art cool.
In the 2000s, Nicole Kidman was named the face of Chanel No. 5, and Baz Luhrmann photographed and directed a lavish print and television advertising campaign that associated the fragrance with beauty, passion, and star power. Brad Pitt became the first male face of the fragrance, and Gisele Bündchen also fronted campaigns during this time.
In 2013, Chanel ran an advertising campaign using a recorded interview with Marilyn Monroe from 1960, in which she discussed her use of Chanel No. 5. The campaign also featured a photograph of the actress splashing herself with a bottle of the perfume. In October 2014, Luhrmann collaborated with Chanel once more, creating a second advertising campaign for No. 5, this time starring Gisele Bündchen and Michiel Huisman. In 2024, Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi starred in Chanel No. 5's new advertising film, "See You at 5."
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Celebrity endorsements
Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921. Over the years, Chanel No. 5 has been endorsed by many celebrities, including film icons and A-list stars. The first face of the fragrance was Coco Chanel herself, who appeared in its first advertisement published by Harper's Bazaar in 1937.
In 1952, American actress Marilyn Monroe mentioned Chanel No. 5 in an article by Life, replying, "Chanel No. 5" to the question, "What do you wear to bed?". In 1960, glossy fashion magazines such as Vogue and Bazaar presented Chanel No. 5 as a required accessory. In 1998, Chanel changed their iconic black-and-white packaging of Chanel No. 5 to feature Warhol’s lithography prints as a limited edition for its 75th anniversary. This saw sales increase by 20-32%.
In 2003, actress Nicole Kidman was enlisted to represent the fragrance, starring in a two-minute commercial titled "No. 5 the Film", directed by Baz Luhrmann. In 2012, Chanel announced that Brad Pitt would be the first male to advertise Chanel No. 5. Other celebrities who have endorsed Chanel No. 5 include Catherine Deneuve, Carole Bouquet, Audrey Tautou, Cara Delevingne, and Marion Cotillard. Karl Lagerfeld, the former creative director of Chanel, was known for his celebrity campaigns and strategy of ambassadorships, bringing in young stars such as Willow Smith, Kristen Stewart, and Blackpink’s Jennie.
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Customer reviews
Chanel No. 5 is a classic, floral aldehyde fragrance for women, first launched in 1921. It has top notes of aldehydes, ylang-ylang, neroli, bergamot, and lemon; middle notes of iris, jasmine, rose, orris root, and lily-of-the-valley; and base notes of civet, musk, sandalwood, amber, moss, vanilla, vetiver, and patchouli.
However, other reviewers find the scent too heavy and associated with older generations. Some people dislike the perfume because of its strong brand recognition, feeling that it is too common and not unique. One reviewer noted that the perfume is very concentrated and should be applied with caution.
Chanel No. 5 has been reformulated several times, and some reviewers express a preference for the original version or for other fragrances in the Chanel range, such as Chanel No. 19.
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Frequently asked questions
Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921. The scent formula was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel No. 5 was the fifth sample scent presented to Coco Chanel, and she chose it because she presented her dress collections on the fifth of May, the fifth month of the year.
Chanel No. 5 is a complex blend of notes, including aldehydes, florals, and powder on a warm, vanillic, slightly animalic base. The top notes include neroli, bergamot, peach, and ylang-ylang. The heart notes are rose, jasmine, iris, and lily of the valley. The base notes are sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, vanilla, and patchouli.
Chanel No. 5 is described as having a fresh, floral, and elegant scent. It is a strong, long-lasting fragrance with a classic, sophisticated, and seductive character. Some people associate it with older generations due to its aldehyde content, which can smell like soap.
Notable figures who have advertised Chanel No. 5 include Marilyn Monroe, Gisele Bündchen, Michiel Huisman, Margot Robbie, and Jacob Elordi.
