The Mystery Of Whale Products In Colognes

Some colognes are made using a rare substance called ambergris, which is produced by sperm whales. It is sometimes referred to as whale vomit or whale poop, although it is not technically either of these things. Ambergris is formed when the indigestible beaks of squid and cuttlefish—which are encased in a waxy substance secreted by the whale's gut to protect itself from irritation—harden into a lump inside the whale's intestine. This lump is then passed out, either through vomiting or defecation, and floats in the ocean for years, undergoing a transformation that makes it highly prized by perfumers.

Sperm whales produce ambergris, a rare substance used in cologne

Sperm whales, or Physeter macrocephalus, produce ambergris, a rare substance used in cologne. Sperm whales feed on squid, octopus, and cuttlefish, all of which have small, hard beaks. While these beaks are usually regurgitated, they can sometimes move into the whale's intestines and cause irritation. To protect itself, the whale's gut secretes a waxy substance that encases the beaks. Over time, the wax and beaks harden into a lump called ambergris, which is then passed out along with faecal matter or, in some cases, regurgitated.

Ambergris has been used for centuries, with fossilised evidence of the substance dating back 1.75 million years, and it is likely that humans have been using it for over a thousand years. Its origin remained a mystery for many years, with several theories proposed, including that it was hardened sea foam or the droppings of large birds. It was only when large-scale whaling began in the 1800s that the sperm whale was identified as the producer of ambergris.

The process of forming ambergris is unique to sperm whales and is not fully understood. It is unclear exactly how the substance is expelled from the whale, with some believing it is passed out along with faecal matter, while others suggest it is regurgitated, earning it the nickname "whale vomit". Some even think that the mass becomes so large that it eventually ruptures the whale's rectum, leading to its death.

Once expelled from the whale, the ambergris floats in the ocean, exposed to saltwater, oxygen, sunlight, air, and seawater. Over time, it transforms from a sticky, dung-like substance into a hard, dry, stone-like object with a pleasant fragrance. This process of ageing, similar to that of wine, increases the value of ambergris. The exact scent of ambergris depends on how long it has been floating in the ocean, with some describing it as musky, warm, or animalic.

The key component of raw ambergris is ambrein, a compound with almost no smell. Through reactions with oxygen, ambrein converts into ambrox and ambrinol, the major odour components of ambergris. Ambergris is highly prized by perfumers due to its unique scent and its ability to act as a fixative, allowing the smell of the perfume to linger longer. It is also extremely rare, with only about one per cent of sperm whales producing it, making it more valuable than silver.

Ambergris is formed from the waxy secretion that coats the indigestible beaks of prey before excretion

Ambergris is a rare, natural byproduct of the sperm whale's diet of squid, octopus, and cuttlefish. These prey items have small, hard beaks that are commonly regurgitated by the whale. However, in rare cases, these beaks can move into the whale's intestines and cause irritation.

In response to this irritation, the whale's gut secretes a waxy substance that coats the beaks and protects the gut. Over time, this waxy secretion hardens around the beaks, forming a lump called ambergris. This process occurs gradually, with the ambergris growing inside the whale over many years.

The formation of ambergris is still not fully understood, and there are conflicting theories regarding its exit from the whale's body. Some believe that the whale regurgitates the mass, earning it the nickname "whale vomit." Others, like Richard Sabin, Principal Curator of Mammals at the Natural History Museum, suggest that ambergris passes out of the whale along with faecal matter, forming an obstruction in the rectum. Some even speculate that the obstruction can grow so large that it eventually ruptures the whale's rectum, which may be fatal.

The process of transforming from a gooey mess to a harder, waxy substance is triggered by exposure to saltwater and oxygen, which also enhances its characteristic smell. The longer ambergris floats in the ocean, the more valuable it becomes, similar to the aging of wine.

When appropriately diluted, the scent of ambergris becomes extremely pleasant, making it highly sought after by perfumers. It adds a unique note and acts as a fixative, allowing the fragrance of the perfume to linger longer. The ancient Chinese, Egyptians, and early Arab civilizations were also known to use ambergris as incense, medicine, and an aphrodisiac.

It is excreted from the whale, floating in the ocean and washing up on beaches

Ambergris, a waxy substance produced by sperm whales, has been used in cologne and perfume for centuries. Sperm whales subsist on a diet of squid, octopus, and cuttlefish, all of which have small, hard beaks. These beaks are usually regurgitated, but sometimes they can work their way into the lining of the whale's gut, causing irritation. In response, the whale's gut secretes a waxy substance that encases the beaks and protects the gut. Over time, the wax and encased beaks harden into a lump called ambergris, which is eventually excreted from the whale, sometimes along with faecal matter.

Once released into the ocean, ambergris can float for years, undergoing a transformation from a sticky, dung-like substance to a hard, grey chunk. This ageing process, similar to that of wine, is what makes ambergris so valuable to perfumers. The salt water and exposure to oxygen trigger chemical reactions that give ambergris its distinctive scent, which becomes more pleasant and musky over time.

The exact path by which ambergris exits the whale is still a subject of debate. Some believe it is regurgitated, earning it the nickname "whale vomit". Others, like Richard Sabin, Principal Curator of Mammals at the Natural History Museum, lean towards the theory that it passes out of the whale along with faecal matter, sometimes fatally rupturing the whale's rectum.

Regardless of how it exits the whale, ambergris can be found floating in the ocean or washed up on beaches. Beachgoers may stumble upon it, though more often, ambergris hunters track weather patterns and ocean currents to locate it first. Once found, it is highly prized by perfumers and can be sold for a substantial sum.

Ambergris has been used for centuries, in medicine, incense, and perfume

Ambergris, a substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, has been used for centuries in medicine, incense, and perfume. Its earliest uses date back to ancient times, with the Ancient Egyptians burning ambergris as incense and using it in scented oils. The Ancient Chinese also used ambergris in medicine, as a sexual stimulant, and in the preparation of an elixir of youth. In the Middle Ages, Europeans adopted these practices and used ambergris to treat ailments such as headaches, colds, and epilepsy.

During the Black Death in Europe, people believed that carrying a ball of ambergris, or a 'pomander', could ward off the plague by covering up the smell of the air, which was believed to be responsible for the outbreak. This belief in the protective properties of ambergris is also reflected in its use during the Middle Ages as a safeguard against sadness, which was thought to open the door to disease.

In the East, ambergris has been used for its medicinal properties and as a spice, while in the West, it was used to enhance and stabilise the scent of perfumes. Its unique qualities as a fixative make it highly valued by perfumers, as it prolongs the staying power of a fragrance by anchoring its more volatile ingredients.

Today, ambergris is still used in some high-end perfumes, although it has largely been replaced by synthetic alternatives due to its rarity, legal ambiguity, and the ethical concerns surrounding the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales.

Today, it is illegal to buy, sell, or collect ambergris in some countries

Ambergris is a rare substance produced by sperm whales. It is formed when the indigestible beaks of squids, octopuses, and cuttlefish bind together in the whale's intestines and are coated with a waxy substance secreted by the whale's gut to protect itself from irritation. Over time, this mass hardens into a lump called ambergris, which is eventually passed out of the whale along with faecal matter.

Due to its pleasant scent when diluted, ambergris has been used for centuries in perfumes, incense, and medicine. However, today, the use of ambergris is highly regulated due to the protection of whales. While it is true that sperm whales were once heavily hunted for their oil and bones, the collection and sale of ambergris are now prohibited or restricted in some countries.

In the United States, for example, the Endangered Species Act of 1973 prohibits the use of any product derived from an endangered species, including sperm whales. As such, the possession of, or trade in, ambergris is banned in the US. Similarly, in Australia, ambergris is considered a whale product, and its import and export are regulated under the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act of 1999.

On the other hand, in the United Kingdom and the European Union, it is currently legal to salvage and sell ambergris that has been washed up on beaches. This is because the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) considers ambergris a waste product, similar to urine or faeces, and therefore, it is not covered by the Convention.

The legality of collecting and selling ambergris varies around the world, and it is important to respect the laws and regulations in place to protect sperm whales and other whale species. While the use of synthetic alternatives to ambergris is encouraged to reduce the risk of exploiting whales, the trade in whale products or by-products can still perpetuate the notion of whales as a commodity.

Frequently asked questions