Make Cologne At Home: A Simple Guide

Creating your own cologne at home is a fun and rewarding hobby that allows you to express your creativity and develop a unique signature scent. While it may seem challenging, the process is relatively simple and only requires a few basic ingredients and tools. In this introduction, we will explore the steps involved in crafting your own cologne, the importance of understanding fragrance notes, and the benefits of making your own fragrance at home.

Choosing the right essential oils

When selecting essential oils, consider the desired scent profile. For a masculine cologne, woody, earthy, spicy, and citrus notes are popular choices. For example, cedarwood is a grounding oil that blends well with citrus notes like bergamot and lime. Other essential oils to consider include sandalwood, tonka bean, violet leaf, vanilla, geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, and lotus flower.

It's important to experiment and be creative when blending essential oils. Not all notes will go together, so it's crucial to mix and test different combinations. Start with small amounts of each oil, as a little can go a long way. You may also want to let your fragrance brew for a few days or weeks to allow the scents to meld and mature fully.

Additionally, the quality of essential oils is vital. Seek out reputable suppliers and invest in high-quality oils to ensure the best results and a long-lasting fragrance.

Understanding fragrance notes

Fragrance notes are the individual scent layers of ingredients that make up a fragrance. They are the building blocks of a fragrance and contribute to its overall scent profile. Fragrance notes are typically categorized into three main types: top notes, heart notes (also known as middle or mid notes), and base notes. Each note plays a specific role in the fragrance’s development and longevity.

Top Notes

Top notes, sometimes referred to as headnotes, form the top layer of a fragrance. In other words, top notes are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume. These play a role in setting first impressions and shaping a fragrance’s story.

Top notes usually evaporate quickly, lingering for only the first five to fifteen minutes. Their main purpose is to give off an initial scent and then transition smoothly into the next part of the fragrance. As a result, top notes generally consist of lighter and smaller molecules.

Some common top notes include citrus scents such as lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose. Basil and anise are also commonly used as top notes.

Heart Notes

As the name suggests, heart notes make up the “heart” of the fragrance. Their function is to retain some of the top notes’ aroma while also introducing new scents to deepen the experience. Sometimes referred to as middle notes, the heart notes also serve as a buffer for the base notes, which may not smell as pleasant on their own.

Because they make up around 70% of the total scent, heart notes usually last longer than top notes. Heart notes appear as the top notes start to fade and remain evident for the full life of the fragrance.

Heart notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli, and ylang-ylang, as well as cinnamon, pepper, pine, lemongrass, black pepper, and cardamom.

Base Notes

Along with middle notes, base notes in perfume form the foundation of the fragrance. They help boost the lighter notes while adding more depth and resonance.

Since they form the perfume’s foundation, base notes are very rich, heavy, and long-lasting fragrance notes. They kick in after about 30 minutes and work together with the middle notes to create the fragrance’s scent. Since base notes sink into your skin, their scent lingers the longest and can last for six hours or more.

Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood.

Mixing the fragrance

Mixing fragrances is an art form, and creating your own cologne can be a rewarding hobby. The process involves combining different scent notes to create a unique and personalised fragrance. While there are no hard and fast rules, there are some guidelines that can help you get started.

Firstly, it's important to understand the different fragrance families and how they work together. Fragrances are typically categorised into families based on their notes, such as floral, citrus, woody, oriental, fruity, and spicy. For example, floral scents often blend well with spicy, citrusy, and woody notes, while woody notes are versatile and blend well with most categories. Understanding these fragrance families can help you create harmonious scent combinations.

When mixing fragrances, it's recommended to use at least one top note, one heart or middle note, and one base note. Top notes are usually fruity or citrusy aromas that are light and evanescent. Examples include bergamot, lemon, sage, and chocolate. Middle notes include herbal, floral, green, or spicy aromas like chamomile, black pepper, eucalyptus, pine, and rose. These notes emerge later and blend with the top notes. Base notes, such as cedarwood, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, and vetiver, are long-lasting and provide an earthy foundation for the fragrance.

When creating your own cologne, it's important to experiment and trust your instincts. Start with a small amount of each fragrance and build upon them in layers, adding more intense notes sparingly. You can also refer to classic scent combinations, such as lavender with vanilla, bergamot with resins, or rose with patchouli, as a starting point for your creations.

Additionally, the quality of the ingredients and the ratios in which they are used play a crucial role in fragrance mixing. Essential oils, alcohol, glycerin, and water are commonly used to create cologne. The standard blending ratio for a well-balanced fragrance is 20% top notes, 30% heart notes, and 50% base notes. However, you may need to adjust these ratios based on the type of profile you want to create.

Lastly, fragrance mixing requires patience. Allow your creations to sit for a few days or even weeks, as the scent can change and mature over time. During this time, the constituents within the oils will blend and the aroma will usually become more rounded.

Ageing the fragrance

Once you have mixed your cologne, it's time to let it age. This process is called maturation. It is important to let your cologne mature so that the various ingredients can properly blend and their scents can fully develop. The length of time needed for maturation will vary depending on the specific ingredients used and the desired strength of the final product. However, it is generally recommended to let your cologne sit for at least three weeks to a month.

During the maturation process, a number of chemical reactions are taking place. The alcohol and water in the mixture are combining to form alcohol hydrates, which have different chemical and physical properties from the individual components. Additionally, the various fragrant substances in the cologne—aldehydes, alcohols, lactones, esters, and terpene derivatives—are highly reactive and can form new compounds through processes such as oxidation and polymerization. These reactions can have a significant impact on the final scent of the cologne, and not all of the reactions are desirable. For example, the oxidation of certain aldehydes can result in unpleasant odours.

To avoid unwanted reactions during maturation, it is important to store your cologne in a cool, dark place, as heat and light can accelerate these reactions and potentially ruin your fragrance. Additionally, exposure to oxygen can be detrimental, so it is best to keep your cologne in a sealed container. You may also want to gently shake or stir your cologne every few days to help distribute the ingredients evenly.

After the maturation period, your cologne should be filtered to remove any sediment that may have formed. Then, it is ready to be poured into a spray bottle and used! However, the ageing process does not stop there. Many colognes continue to develop and improve with age, even after they are bottled. This is why vintage colognes are often highly prized by collectors. To ensure your cologne ages gracefully, continue to store it in a cool, dark place and avoid exposing it to excessive heat or light.

Overall, the ageing process is a critical aspect of creating a well-rounded and pleasant fragrance. By allowing your cologne to mature and then continuing to care for it over time, you will be rewarded with a unique and captivating scent that evolves and improves with age.

Diluting the fragrance

Choosing the Right Diluent

The choice of diluent depends on the type of fragrance you want to create. If you are making an alcohol-based perfume spray, perfumer's alcohol is a suitable option. This option is ideal for evaluating the odour profile of your materials when training your nose. However, if you plan to add your fragrance to bases such as candles, creams, detergents, or oils, consider using Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) instead. DPG is a common solvent in the fragrance industry and can be used in various bases. On the other hand, if you prefer a natural approach and are creating an oil-based fragrance, you may dilute your materials in carrier oils like jojoba oil.

Dilution Ratios and Techniques

When diluting, it is essential to use a scale instead of drops to ensure accuracy and repeatability. For most materials, a 10% dilution is standard, but for strong materials like Ethyl Vanillin, a 1% dilution may be more appropriate. To achieve a 10% dilution, mix 1 gram of the material with 9 grams of the diluent. For a 1% dilution, use 0.1 grams of the material and 9.9 grams of the diluent. If you are working with thick materials that are difficult to measure, gently heat them using a water bath or an electric leg wax melter to mobilise them before dilution.

Storage and Application

After dilution, store your fragrance in a spray bottle or a glass decanter. It is important to note that diluting a fragrance may affect its longevity and intensity. To apply, spray a small amount on your skin or clothing, being mindful of sensitive areas. You can also spritz it into the air and walk through the mist for a subtle scent.

Experimentation and Safety

Creating your own cologne involves experimentation and creativity. Feel free to explore different dilution ratios and combinations of fragrances to find your unique scent. However, always prioritise safety when working with various chemicals and diluents. Some fragrances may cause allergies or sensitivity to sunlight, so conduct thorough research and perform patch tests before committing to a final product.

Frequently asked questions