Exploring Cologne: A Visitor's Experience And Guide

Cologne is a metropolis on the Rhine, known for its joyous attitude and party spirit. The city is home to about one million people and attracts about six million visitors each year. The period between New Year and Ash Wednesday is exceptional in Cologne, as this is when the world-famous Carnival is held. The city boasts a thriving music and art scene, with highlights including Christopher Street Day, Musical Dome, the Wallraf Richartz Museum, and the Ludwig Museum. The city is also known for its local patriotism, its rivalry with Düsseldorf, and its status as Germany's LGBT capital. Cologne is a green metropolis with many parks and gardens, and its most famous landmark is the towering Gothic cathedral, which is Germany's most visited tourist attraction.

Cologne's Roman History

Cologne has a rich Roman history. The city was founded in the 1st century CE as the Roman Colonia Agrippina, in Germanic Ubii territory. The name was derived from Agrippina, the wife of Emperor Claudius, who was born in the area. The Ubii were a Germanic tribe that originated on the right bank of the Rhine. The Romans founded the settlement of Oppidum Ubiorum in 38 BCE, and in 50 CE, they established Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) on the Rhine. The city became the provincial capital of Germania Inferior in 85 CE and was also known as Augusta Ubiorum.

The Romans built monumental stone buildings, temples, paved streets, and an aqueduct. The city featured the palace of the proconsul and baths, and was protected by mighty walls with gates and towers. Roman Cologne was a significant trade and production centre, with goods and people coming from all over the world.

Considerable Roman remains can be found in present-day Cologne, especially near the wharf area, where a 1,900-year-old Roman boat was discovered in 2007. The Romano-Germanic Museum, built in 1974, showcases the archaeological heritage of the city, including the world-famous Dionysius mosaic. The museum stands on the foundations of a Roman villa and has welcomed over 20 million visitors.

Roman roads, such as the Cologne-Boulogne sur Mer and Cologne-Lyon routes, are still recognisable in the modern city and influence the cultural landscape. The Roman City Walls, almost four kilometres long, have several sections preserved within the present-day city. The Roman Tower (Römerturm), with its richly decorated masonry, is also within walking distance of the museum.

The Cathedral of Cologne, which was constructed in the 13th century, was built over the remains of an earlier church and Christian community from the Roman period. Extensive remains of the Old Cathedral and the earlier church have been discovered and can be visited at the huge excavation site beneath the current cathedral.

Carnival and Local Culture

The people of Cologne are known for their local patriotism, with a deep-rooted affection for their city. This is reflected in their loyalty to their football team, their Kölsch beer, and their many carnival songs that celebrate the city. The local culture is cheerful, joyous, and festive, with a thriving music and art scene.

Cologne Carnival

The Cologne Carnival is a world-famous event that takes place annually and is considered the "fifth season" in Cologne. It officially begins on 11 November at 11:11 a.m. but is temporarily suspended during Advent and Christmas, resuming after Epiphany in the New Year. The street carnival, also known as "the crazy days," takes place between Weiberfastnacht (Women's Carnival) and Veilchendienstag (Violet Tuesday), with the time of merrymaking officially declared open at Alter Markt square on the Thursday before Lent.

During the carnival, the people of Cologne go out masqueraded, and the typical greeting is "Kölle Alaaf!", a Kölsch phrase meaning "Cologne alone" or "Cologne over everything." The carnival is filled with music, colourful costumes, parades, balls, and stage shows. The highlight is Rose Monday, two days before Ash Wednesday, which features a large parade with floats, foot groups, dance groups, and music bands. The carnival officially ends with the burning of the Nubbel, a straw doll that serves as a scapegoat for the transgressions of the revellers, on the night of Ash Wednesday.

The carnival is organised by the Festkomitee Kölner Karneval (Cologne Carnival Celebration Committee), founded in 1823, with numerous autonomous events also taking place throughout the city's bars, clubs, and local communities. The carnival is a unique folk festival that attracts millions of visitors each year, with over 480 Carnival associations in the city. It is wilder than Oktoberfest, with a whirlwind of music, colour, and local culture on display.

Local Culture

The local culture in Cologne is heavily influenced by its strong sense of community and joy for life. The city is known for its student hang-outs, such as the Kwartier Latäng and the Friesenviertel district, as well as its cosy, rustic pubs serving Kölsch beer. The people of Cologne are also known for their love of dressing up and taking costumes very seriously during the carnival. They spend a lot of time, effort, and money on their outfits, and some even have them professionally tailored.

Cologne is also known for its LGBT-friendly attitude, with the first weekend of July featuring the Christopher Street Day, or gay pride parade. The city has been secretly known as Germany's LGBT capital for decades, with the 'Bermuda Triangle' around Schaafenstrasse boasting the highest concentration of gay bars, cafes, and nightclubs.

Overall, the local culture in Cologne is characterised by its strong community spirit, festive atmosphere, and sense of joy and celebration.

Architectural Sights

While some claim that Cologne is an architectural eyesore, the city does have some impressive sights. During World War II, most of the city's historic buildings were destroyed, and in the 1960s, the focus was on rebuilding quickly, resulting in the concrete blocks that litter the city. However, there are some notable exceptions.

Cologne Cathedral

The most famous is the Cologne Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece and UNESCO World Heritage Site. At 157 metres (515 feet) tall, it is the world's third-tallest church and houses the reliquaries of the Biblical Three Wise Men. The abstract glass window designed by Gerhard Richter and the challenging tower climb are particular highlights.

Crane Houses

The Crane Houses in the Rheinauhafen (Rheinau Harbour) are a trio of skyscrapers designed by architects Alfons Linster and Hadi Teherani. Sporting lots of glass, concrete, steel and high-tech features, they impressively reflect our modern age while also evoking the traditional loading cranes found in port facilities. The Crane Houses were built between 2006 and 2010, and two of them are used for commercial purposes while the third is a residential building.

Saint Gereon's Basilica

One of Cologne's 12 Romanesque churches, Saint Gereon's Basilica dates back to the 11th century and features a unique ten-sided domed structure, intricate floor mosaics and medieval murals.

Hohenzollern Bridge

Adorned with half a million "love locks", Hohenzollern Bridge provides scenic views of the river and a bustling railway. It's a great spot for a romantic stroll and cityscape photography.

Historic Old Town

The Historic Old Town features colourful buildings, cobbled lanes and a preserved cathedral. It's a great place to dine and shop, with a resilient post-war ambiance.

Food and Drink

Cologne's food and drink scene is a vibrant, eclectic mix of traditional German dishes, international cuisine, and local specialities. With over 1,000 restaurants, 100 bars, 700 pubs, and several food festivals, the city is a foodie's delight.

Traditional German Food

Cologne's traditional food scene is dominated by its many brewery restaurants, serving hearty German food and local Kölsch beer. The city's brewery restaurant culture is uniquely sociable and unconventional, with a 500-year-old tradition of encouraging diners to chat and clink glasses with one another.

Some of the local dishes to try include:

• Halve Hahn – an open-faced sandwich with a thick slice of Dutch cheese, rye bread, and pickles. Despite its name, it contains no chicken.
• Himmel un Ääd/Himmel und Ääd/Himmel un Ääd/Himmel und Erde – a combination of black pudding, fried onions, mashed potatoes ("earth"), and apple sauce ("heaven").
• Reibekuchen/Kartoffelpuffer/Rievkooche/Rivekooche – potato pancakes, often served with apple sauce or apple puree.
• Rheinischer Sauerbraten/Sauerbraten – a marinated, slow-roasted beef dish, sometimes cooked with horse meat, and served with potato dumplings and red cabbage.
• Pork Knuckle/Hämmche/Schweinshaxe – tender, roasted pork knuckle served with mashed potatoes or potato dumplings and red cabbage.
• Mettbrütche – minced pork in a bread roll.
• Hämmche – pork with sauerkraut or potatoes.

International Cuisine

Cologne also offers a wide range of international cuisine, including:

• Eatsu – one of the best spots for sushi and Japanese cuisine, with a range of vegan and vegetarian options.
• Frankie's Churros – a small, popular spot for fried-dough churros with chocolate sauce.
• Gilden in Zims – a restaurant serving wonderful traditional and modern German dishes, including pork knuckle with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut.
• Neni – a restaurant in a hotel overlooking the city, serving Israeli-inspired cuisine, including fried eggplants and hummus.
• Köln Sky-Turm – Cologne's highest restaurant, located in the Sky Tower, offering amazing views and three, four, or five-course meals with vegetarian and vegan options.
• OX Royal – a gourmet restaurant.
• Neobiota – a gourmet restaurant.
• Ristorante Alfredo – a Michelin-starred Italian restaurant.
• Shaka Zulu – a quirky, colourful spot for South African tapas and happy hour drink specials.
• Bulgogi Haus – an Asian BBQ restaurant where you cook your own meats and seafood on a coal-stone grill.
• Pastabar – an Italian restaurant run by an Italian couple, with a rotating menu based on ingredient availability.

Bakeries and Sweet Treats

Cologne is known for its pastries and sweet treats. Some of the best spots include:

• Schmitz & Nittenwilm – a bakery offering treats such as Marzipanstriezel (a braided pastry filled with marzipan and topped with lemon and almonds), Kirsch-Quark-schnecken (a custard-like cherry quark), Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake), Apfelstrudel (Apple Streudel), Bienenstich Kuchen (Bee Sting Cake), and Streuselkuchen (Crumb Cake).
• Madame Miammian – a bakery offering exquisite homemade cakes and candies.

Drinks

No discussion of food in Cologne would be complete without mentioning its drinks, most notably, its beer.

Kölsch is a light, top-fermented beer exclusive to Cologne and widely consumed by locals. It is served in a 200ml glass called a 'Stagen', and waiters will keep bringing you more until you place your beer mat on top of your glass to indicate you've had enough.

Other drinks to try include:

Sünner gin and vodka.

Parks and Gardens

Cologne's parks and gardens offer a perfect escape from the bustling city life, providing a serene atmosphere for relaxation and exploration. Here are some of the best parks and gardens in the city:

Volksgarten

Volksgarten is a centrally-located park in Cologne, offering a peaceful retreat for locals and visitors alike. It features a charming beer garden, a rose garden, and the ruins of Fort IV, a former Prussian fortification. The orangery of the fort has been converted into a unique theatre space.

Aachener Weiher

Wedged between the hip Belgian Quarter and the posch Lindenthal district, Aachener Weiher is a large green space that attracts a diverse crowd. On sunny days, it's a popular spot for students, sun seekers, joggers, dog walkers, and sports enthusiasts. The adjacent beer garden offers refreshing drinks and hearty food, while a nearby kiosk sells Kölsch and snacks.

Rheinpark

Rheinpark boasts stunning views of Cologne's skyline and offers a range of activities for all ages. Kids can enjoy the large playground, paddling pond, and narrow-gauge railway. Adults can go for early morning jogs, picnics, or sunset watching. The park also features walking paths, artificially created ponds, canals, and meadows, providing a perfect setting for long strolls.

Botanical Gardens (Flora)

Cologne's botanical gardens, located in the north of the city, showcase over 10,000 species of native and exotic plants. Highlights include an American sequoia tree, a waterfall, and a palm tree-lined alley. The two gatehouses that mark the entrance provide a picturesque backdrop to the beautifully planted gardens. The romantic palace-like event space is a popular choice for weddings and anniversary celebrations.

Frequently asked questions