Anisha Riggs
Parfum, also known as extrait de parfum or pure perfume, is a category of fragrance with the highest concentration of perfume oils. Parfum typically contains between 15% and 40% fragrance, with concentrations generally falling between 20% and 30%. Parfum fragrances last the longest, usually up to eight hours, and are the most expensive due to their high concentration of fragrance. Parfum fragrances are recommended for people with sensitive skin as they contain less alcohol than other types of perfumes. The next most concentrated fragrance is Eau de Parfum (EDP), which typically contains between 15% and 20% fragrance oil and lasts four to five hours.
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What You'll Learn
Concentration and longevity
The concentration of a perfume refers to the amount of fragrance oil it contains. The higher the concentration of oils, the more pure and long-lasting the fragrance will be. Perfumes with higher concentrations of oils are also more expensive.
Parfum, or extrait de parfum, has the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically containing between 20 and 40% oil, although concentrations can be as low as 15%. Parfum fragrances last the longest, usually around six to eight hours, and are the most expensive type of perfume. They are recommended for people with sensitive skin as they contain less alcohol than other fragrances.
Eau de parfum (EDP) has the next highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically containing between 15 and 20% oil. It is less expensive than parfum and usually lasts for four to five hours. EDP is a popular choice for fragrances worn in the evening or on a night out.
Eau de toilette (EDT) has a lower concentration of fragrance oils, typically containing between 5 and 15% oil. It is cheaper than EDP and is one of the most popular types of fragrances available. EDT normally lasts for two to four hours and is considered a daywear fragrance.
Eau de cologne (EDC) has a much lower concentration of fragrance oils, typically containing between 2 and 4% oil. It is often considered a masculine formula but there are also feminine eau de colognes. EDC usually lasts for around two hours and is fairly inexpensive.
Eau fraiche has the lowest concentration of fragrance oils, typically containing between 1 and 3% oil. It is similar to EDC in terms of longevity, usually lasting for up to two hours. Eau fraiche is perfect for those who want a subtle, delicate fragrance as it is incredibly light and only lasts for a short time.
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Fragrance families
The world of fragrance can be classified into families, making it easier for consumers to shop for fragrances. There are four main fragrance families: floral, oriental (or amber), woody, and fresh. Each family has distinctive characteristics, and individuals often gravitate towards one scent family over another when choosing a personal fragrance.
The floral scent family is one of the most common families and is used in many well-known perfumes. They usually take on a feminine characteristic, smelling like fresh-cut flowers or having a powdery note. Floral scents are perfect for spring and summertime. The oriental fragrance family (also known as amber) includes herbs, spices, and dry, powdery, resinous notes. Oriental scents can be described as sensual, warm, and exotic. Woody perfumes are usually warm and opulent, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. The fresh scent family encompasses clean, bright, herby, citrusy, and oceanic scents. More often used in men’s fragrances than women’s, fresh scents are sometimes paired with spicy notes to create a more robust fragrance.
There are also other fragrance families that have been proposed, such as aquatic, smoky, soapy, fruity, green, spicy, boozy, citrus, powdery, animalic, and gourmand. These families can be further broken down into subfamilies or dominant notes. For example, the floral family can be broken down into fruity, floral, soft floral, and floral oriental. The fragrance wheel, invented by scent expert Michael Edwards, is a circular diagram that illustrates the four scent families in relation to each other and their corresponding subfamilies. Families that are side-by-side on the wheel are the most similar and will likely blend well together in a perfume.
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Top, middle and base notes
Top, middle, and base notes are the three groups of notes that complete a formula to give balance to a fragrance, from fresh and fleeting to deep and long-lasting. These layers form the foundation of every fragrance, influencing how a perfume unfolds and interacts with your skin.
Top notes are the first impression of a scent, typically making up 20-40% of the formula, offering a fresh and inviting opening. They are the lightest and often associated with freshness. They are also the most volatile of the three notes and evaporate the quickest, with their scent lasting only for the first few minutes. Popular top notes include lemon, bergamot, rose, lavender, peppermint, and airy scents.
Middle notes, also known as heart notes, are the scents that emerge once the top notes start to dissipate, usually after about 15 minutes. They typically last for about 2-3 hours and form the heart of the fragrance, providing depth and complexity. Middle notes are most commonly floral, but they can also be spicy or fruity. Examples include rose, jasmine, lavender, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
Base notes are the grounding step of a fragrance, providing balance and depth to the overall composition. They are the foundation of the fragrance, ensuring the scent evolves beautifully over time. They are the least volatile notes, evaporating the slowest, which means they last the longest, often lingering on the skin for six hours or more, and sometimes even days. Base notes are predominantly deep, rich, and warm, with popular notes including vanilla, powdery musk, and woody accents such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli.
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Natural vs synthetic perfumes
Natural and synthetic fragrances are two types of perfumes with distinct characteristics. Natural fragrances are derived from natural sources such as trees, plants, and animals, while synthetic fragrances are created in laboratories using single-molecule chemicals. The choice between natural and synthetic perfumes depends on various factors, including fragrance needs, sustainability, ethics, and personal preferences.
Natural fragrances capture the complexity and beauty of the natural world, offering a unique and evolving scent profile. They are blends of numerous molecules, ranging from 20 to 500, depending on factors such as growing conditions, harvest timings, and specific chemotypes. This molecular complexity allows natural fragrances to evolve in the barrel, bottle, and even on the skin, providing a dynamic olfactory experience. However, natural fragrances face challenges in consistency and sustainability. Recreating the same natural fragrance is difficult due to the impact of human interaction, climate change, and variations in natural sources. Additionally, the process of extracting scents from trees and plants has contributed to deforestation, while animal-derived scents involve lengthy and painful processes.
On the other hand, synthetic fragrances offer perfumers more control over the performance of the scent. Synthetic ingredients are favoured for their affordability, consistency, and ease of use. They provide identical results each time, ensuring that the same scent can be replicated indefinitely. Synthetic fragrances are also more accessible and widely available, making them the choice for the majority of perfumes on the market. However, some consumers may prefer to avoid synthetic fragrances due to concerns about the use of harmful chemicals and animal cruelty in their production.
The distinction between natural and synthetic fragrances extends beyond their ingredients. Natural fragrances are known for their depth and complexity, with thousands of different molecules interacting to create a vibrant olfactory experience. In contrast, synthetic fragrances are often associated with linear or non-linear scents, although this is not solely determined by the use of natural or synthetic ingredients. The skill and intention of the perfumer play a crucial role in blending these scents to create memorable fragrances.
Ultimately, the choice between natural and synthetic perfumes depends on individual preferences and values. Consumers who prioritize sustainability and ethical practices may favour natural perfumes, while those seeking specific scent profiles or accessibility may opt for synthetic options. Additionally, some individuals may be drawn to niche perfumeries that utilize traditional techniques, such as macerating flowers and applying CO2 techniques, to create natural fragrances.
While the discussion of natural versus synthetic perfumes can be nuanced and complex, it is essential to remember that many popular fragrances use a blend of both natural and synthetic ingredients to create iconic scents. Exploring different options and discovering which fragrance classifications resonate personally is key to making informed choices when selecting a perfume.
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Alcohol content
The alcohol used in perfumes is ethanol, which is obtained by the fermentation of grains and other plants. The ethanol used in perfumes is typically "denatured", meaning it has been made unfit for human consumption through the addition of poisons or bad-tasting chemicals. This is done to prevent the consumption of alcohol and to combat illegal trafficking.
The specific type of denatured alcohol used in perfumes is cosmetic-grade Trade-Specific Denatured Alcohol (TSDA). The most widely used and recommended variant is SD-40b, a specific grade denatured with tert-butyl alcohol. SD-40b is considered safe for use in perfumes and cosmetics.
The concentration of alcohol in perfumes varies depending on the type and category of perfume. Parfum, or pure perfume, has a high concentration of fragrance oil, typically ranging from 15% to 40%, with some sources stating a more specific range of 20% to 30%. Due to this high concentration, parfum contains a lower amount of alcohol, typically ranging from 60% to 80%. However, some sources mention that the alcohol content in parfum can be as low as 50%.
Eau de parfum (EDP) has a slightly lower concentration of fragrance oil, typically ranging from 10% to 20%, with some sources stating a range of 15% to 20%. The alcohol content in EDP is higher than in parfum, but it still varies depending on the specific fragrance, with estimates ranging from 50% to 88%.
Eau de toilette (EDT) has a lower concentration of fragrance oil, typically ranging from 5% to 15%. EDT fragrances have a higher concentration of alcohol compared to EDP and parfum. However, specific estimates for the alcohol content in EDT are not readily available.
Eau de cologne (EDC) has an even lower concentration of fragrance oil, typically ranging from 2% to 4%. EDC fragrances are known for their light and fresh smell, and they contain a high concentration of alcohol. However, specific estimates for the alcohol content in EDC are not mentioned.
Eau fraiche has the lowest concentration of fragrance oil, typically ranging from 1% to 3%. While it has a low fragrance concentration, eau fraiche does not contain a high amount of alcohol. Instead, it is mostly made up of water, with the remainder being fragrance and a small amount of alcohol.
It is important to note that the alcohol percentages mentioned above may vary slightly depending on the specific fragrance and the manufacturer. Additionally, some fragrances are created without alcohol, using vegetable oil or other bases instead.
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Frequently asked questions
Class A perfume, also known as parfum or pure perfume, has the highest concentration of fragrance, typically lasting the longest at 6-8 hours.
Class A perfumes contain a high concentration of fragrance, typically between 20% and 40%.
Class A perfumes have a higher concentration of fragrance oils and less alcohol, making them more expensive and longer-lasting on the skin. They are also better suited for those with sensitive skin due to their lower alcohol content.
