Lance Carson
Chanel is a well-known French perfume and fashion house, specialising in women's ready-to-wear clothing, luxury goods, and accessories. The House of Chanel was founded by Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in 1909, when she opened a millinery shop in Paris. Chanel is credited with revolutionising haute couture by replacing structured, corseted silhouettes with more functional garments that were still flattering. Chanel also made popular 'flat-chested' fashions, which were the opposite of the hourglass figure fashions of the late 19th century. In 1921, Chanel launched her debut perfume, Chanel No. 5, which changed the fragrance industry. Chanel No. 5 was created by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux, and its unique, abstract construction set it apart from other fragrances on the market at the time. Today, Chanel offers a range of perfumes and colognes for both men and women, including iconic fragrances such as Chanel No. 5, Bleu de Chanel, and Coco Mademoiselle.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Year of first perfume launch | 1921 |
| Name of first perfume | Chanel No. 5 |
| Perfumers | Jacques Polge, Ernest Beaux, Olivier Polge, Henri Robert, and Christopher Sheldrake |
| Number of perfumes | 150 |
| Recent perfumes | Bleu de Chanel, Chance Eau Tendre, Coco Mademoiselle, Gabrielle Chanel Essence |
| Advertising campaign stars | Marilyn Monroe, Margot Robbie, Jacob Elordi |
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What You'll Learn
Chanel No. 5's origin story
Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. The perfume was first launched in 1921 and was the result of a partnership between Chanel and French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel had wanted to develop a modern fragrance for some time prior to 1920. At the time, Chanel's lover was Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich Romanov of Russia, who introduced her to Ernest Beaux on the French Riviera. Beaux was the master perfumer at A. Rallet and Company, where he had worked since 1898. The company was the official perfumer to the Russian imperial family.
In 1920, Chanel met with Beaux and challenged him to create a scent that would make its wearer "smell like a woman, and not like a rose". Chanel believed that women smelled like a mixture of 80 natural and synthetic ingredients, and this is what she chose when Beaux presented her with a series of numbered perfume samples to choose from. Chanel chose the fifth vial, and the perfume was named Chanel No. 5. Chanel told Beaux:
> I present my dress collections on the fifth of May, the fifth month of the year and so we will let this sample number five keep the name it has already, it will bring good luck.
Beaux perfected Chanel No. 5 over several months in the late summer and autumn of 1920. He worked from the rose and jasmine base of Rallet N°1, altering it to make it cleaner and more daring, reminiscent of the polar freshness he had experienced during his time in the White Russian army. He experimented with modern synthetics, adding his own invention "Rose E.B." and notes derived from a new jasmine source, a commercial ingredient called Jasophore.
The first bottle was produced in 1922 and was sold only in Chanel boutiques to select clients. When Parfums Chanel was incorporated in 1924, the bottle shape was changed to square, faceted corners as the original glass proved too thin to survive shipping and distribution. The octagonal bottle stopper, which became a brand signature, was also created in 1924. The first advertisement for Chanel No. 5 was published in Harper's Bazaar in 1937, featuring Coco Chanel as the first face of the fragrance.
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Chanel's other perfumes
Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by Chanel in 1921. Since then, Chanel has launched 149 other perfumes, including:
- Antaeus
- Bois Noir
- Chanel No. 19
- Chanel No. 46
- Bleu de Chanel
- Chance Eau Tendre
- Coco Mademoiselle
- Coco Noir
- Cristalle
- Egoiste
- Gabrielle Chanel Essence
- Le 1940 Beige de Chanel
- Cuir de Russie Parfum
Chanel No. 5 was created by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, who wanted to develop a distinctly modern fragrance. Chanel chose the scent from a selection of small glass vials numbered 1 to 5 and 20 to 24, presented to her by master perfumer Ernest Beaux, whom she had commissioned for the project. Chanel said:
> I present my dress collections on the fifth of May, the fifth month of the year and so we will let this sample number five keep the name it has already, it will bring good luck.
Chanel No. 5's bottle design was intended to be an "antidote" to the "over-elaborate, precious fussiness" of the crystal fragrance bottles then in fashion. Chanel wanted her bottle to be "pure transparency... an invisible bottle". It is thought that the design was inspired by the rectangular beveled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles used by her lover, Arthur "Boy" Capel.
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Chanel No. 5's advertising campaigns
Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by French designer Coco Chanel in 1921. The perfume's scent was formulated by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel No. 5 has been one of the world's top-selling perfumes since its debut, and its early advertising campaigns continue to inspire beauty brands today.
The earliest advertising for Chanel No. 5 was through word of mouth. Coco Chanel would invite influential women to sophisticated dinner parties and spritz them with the perfume. Chanel was the first face of the fragrance, appearing in a 1937 advertisement published by Harper's Bazaar.
In the 1950s, actress and model Suzy Parker became the face of Chanel No. 5. She was portrayed as the ideal Chanel No. 5 woman of that decade: vivacious, joyful, upper class, and impeccably dressed. During this time, the phrase "Every woman alive adores Chanel No. 5" was used in advertising campaigns.
Marilyn Monroe famously stated in 1952 that she only wore Chanel No. 5 to bed. In 2013, Chanel ran an advertising campaign featuring a recorded interview with Monroe, in which she discusses her use of the perfume. The campaign also included a photograph of Monroe splashing herself with a bottle of Chanel No. 5.
In the 1960s, Ali McGraw fronted the Chanel No. 5 for Bath campaign, introducing the scent to younger consumers. Catherine Deneuve was also the face of Chanel No. 5 during this time, portraying a strong, glamorous woman.
In the 1980s, former Bond girl Carole Bouquet was the face of Chanel No. 5. She appeared in print advertisements and television commercials directed by Ridley Scott. In the late 1990s, Chanel purchased the rights to a series of prints created by Andy Warhol that incorporated the iconic No. 5 bottle.
More recently, Chanel No. 5 campaigns have featured celebrities such as Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou, Brad Pitt, Gisele Bündchen, Marion Cotillard, Margot Robbie, and Jacob Elordi. These campaigns have continued to emphasise the elegance, glamour, and romanticism associated with the fragrance.
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Chanel No. 5's ingredients and scent
Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921. The scent formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel No. 5 is considered an abstract, mysterious scent with countless subtle facets, radiating an extravagant floral richness.
The formula used to produce Chanel No. 5 has changed little since its creation, except for the exclusion of natural civet and certain nitro-musks. Chanel No. 5 was originally launched in three concentrations: parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne. The parfum version of Chanel No. 5 is harder to find than the eau de parfum. The parfum is said to smell like a true vintage perfume, rich and heavy, while the eau de parfum is said to smell more fresh and clean. The eau de parfum was composed in the 1980s by Jacques Polge as a modern version of the original fragrance.
The key to the scent of Chanel No. 5 is Beaux's use of aldehydes, which act as aroma boosters. Beaux worked from the rose and jasmine base of Rallet N°1, altering it to make it cleaner and more daring, reminiscent of the polar freshness he experienced during his time in the Arctic. He added his own invention, "Rose E.B.", and notes derived from a new jasmine source, a commercial ingredient called Jasophore. The formula also increased the quantities of orris root, iris root, and natural musks.
Chanel No. 5 has been described as having bright citrus top notes, with a woody-vanilla base. It has also been described as sparkling, floral, hot and cold, and well-blended, with a warm, cozy base.
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Chanel's history and other products
Chanel is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1910 by Coco Chanel in Paris. The House of Chanel originated in 1909 when Gabrielle Chanel opened a millinery shop at 160 Boulevard Malesherbes, the ground floor of her then-partner, Etienne Balsan's flat. Chanel sold hats to the mistresses of the French hunting and sporting élite who frequented Balsan's salon. In 1910, Arthur "Boy" Capel financed her first independent millinery shop, Chanel Modes, at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris. Chanel Modes sold couture sports clothes for women, introducing practical designs that revolutionised haute couture and ready-to-wear fashion. By 1915, Chanel had opened her first Couture House in Biarritz, France, and her designs were known throughout the country.
Chanel's clothing often featured quilted fabric and leather trimmings, reinforcing the garment's form and function. The Chanel suit, for example, consisted of a knee-length skirt and a cardigan-style jacket, trimmed with black embroidery and gold-coloured buttons. To complement her clothing lines, Coco Chanel commissioned perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a fragrance for La Maison Chanel in 1921. The iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume was born, and its popularity prompted Chanel to sell it in 1922.
Chanel continued to grow throughout the 1920s and early 1930s, following the fashion trends of the time. Chanel produced beaded dresses that became popular with Flapper women, and introduced 'flat-chested' fashions that contrasted with the hourglass figure fashions of the late 19th century. Chanel also used colours traditionally associated with masculinity, such as grey and navy blue, to convey a sense of feminine boldness.
During the Second World War, Chanel's actions during the Nazi occupation of France were scrutinised, and she was criticised for her close relationships with Nazi occupiers. After the war, she was interrogated and acquitted of being a collaborator due to intervention by Churchill. However, declassified documents revealed that she had collaborated directly with the Nazi intelligence service. Chanel spent several years in Switzerland after the war before returning to Paris and reviving her fashion house.
Today, Chanel remains a reliable and recognisable high-end fashion brand, offering women's ready-to-wear, luxury goods, and accessories. Chanel has expanded its product line to include skincare and makeup, presented in recyclable and reusable packaging.
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Frequently asked questions
Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume launched by Chanel in 1921. It was created by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel No. 5 is considered the most recognised name in perfumery worldwide.
In 1952, Marilyn Monroe famously said in her first Life magazine cover that she wore only Chanel No. 5 to bed.
Chanel perfumes are known for their abstract construction and generous use of aldehydes, which give the fragrance a champagne-like sparkle. Chanel was also known for its simple-line, "flat-chested" fashions that were opposite to the hourglass figure fashions of the late 19th century.
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