Lance Carson
Cashmeran is a synthetic compound commonly used as a base note in perfumery. It is known for its warm, woody, and amber qualities, as well as its ability to blend harmoniously with other ingredients such as amber, vanilla, orange blossom, and patchouli. With a complex and multifaceted olfactory profile, cashmeran adds depth, sensuality, and longevity to fragrances. Its unique scent, reminiscent of cashmere, has made it a key element in many iconic perfumes, contributing to their recognisable character.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Odor Family | Woody, Musk, Amber |
| Odor Profile | Warm, Sensuous, Spicy, Salty, Animalic, Coniferous |
| Use | Base Note, Middle Note |
| Use Level | Traces to 2% |
| Average Use | 0.33% |
| Tenacity | 48 hours, 200 hours |
| Chemical Name | 1,2,3,5,6,7-Hexahydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4H-inden-4-one |
| Molecular Weight | 206.2 |
| Vapour Pressure (20ºC) | 0.009316 mmHg |
| Flashpoint | 94ºC |
| CAS # | 33704-61-9 |
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What You'll Learn
Cashmeran's unique, multifaceted scent
Cashmeran is a multifaceted, versatile synthetic molecule with a unique scent that has become a staple in modern perfumery. Its complex aroma is characterised by a combination of musk, wood, spice, and floral notes.
The olfactory profile of Cashmeran is multifaceted and unique, offering a warm, woody, and amber scent with a hint of spice. The musk notes are strong and diffusive, providing a long-lasting effect. The woody aspects of its scent include coniferous and balsamic nuances, reminiscent of cashmere wood or blond woods.
The spice element in Cashmeran's composition adds depth and a subtle, sensual quality to perfumes. It is often described as having a slightly salty, animalic effect, which enhances the overall warmth of the fragrance. This unique scent is sometimes compared to the smell of wet asphalt or sun-kissed skin.
Cashmeran is also known for its ability to create sophisticated and captivating accords when blended with other ingredients. It harmonises beautifully with amber, vanilla, orange blossom, and patchouli, adding a touch of refinement and sophistication to both men's and women's fragrances.
The versatility of Cashmeran is evident in its ability to adapt to changing trends and demands in the perfume industry. Its long-lasting and stable nature makes it a valuable base note, providing depth and longevity to a wide range of fragrances.
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Its role as a base note
Cashmeran is a synthetic molecule that was first synthesized in 1968 by John Hall of IFF. It is a versatile and multipurpose fragrance that can be used in almost all perfume genres, from woody and musky scents to elegant floral chypres. It is often used as a base note in perfumes, adding depth and sensuality to the fragrance.
As a base note, cashmeran brings a warm and comforting aroma, reminiscent of the soft, velvety feel of cashmere. It has excellent stability and long durability, allowing the scent to persist on the skin for an extended period. This makes it a key element in many iconic fragrances, contributing to their unique character and recognisable olfactory signature.
The olfactory profile of cashmeran is complex and multifaceted. It combines a warm, sensuous musk with a rich, woody-spicy character, featuring distinctive ambery depth and subtle floral-fruity nuances. This unique profile allows it to blend harmoniously with other ingredients such as amber, vanilla, orange blossom, and patchouli, creating sophisticated and captivating accords.
In addition to its olfactory qualities, cashmeran also has exceptional diffusion power, making it a versatile ingredient that can be used in traces or in overdose. Its versatility extends to its ability to create interesting mineral contexts within perfumes, adding a layer of complexity to the fragrance.
Overall, cashmeran's role as a base note is to provide depth, longevity, and a warm, sensual dimension to perfumes. Its versatility, stability, and unique olfactory profile make it an indispensable ingredient in modern perfumery.
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The synthesis and chemical properties of cashmeran
Cashmeran, also known as musk indanone or indomuscone, is a chemical compound commonly used in fragrances and perfumes. It has the chemical name 6,7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone or DPMI and the molecular formula C14H22O.
The synthesis of cashmeran involves several steps of chemical synthesis:
- Raw materials: The raw materials used are typically petrochemicals, with acetone and ethylene being the main compounds.
- Aldol condensation: Acetone reacts with ethylene through an aldol condensation reaction to form dihydrojasmone, an intermediate compound.
- Cyclization: Dihydrojasmone undergoes a transformation into a more complex cyclic structure through a specific chemical reaction.
- Rearrangement: The cyclic product then undergoes molecular rearrangement to form the distinctive structure of cashmeran.
- Purification: Cashmeran is often present as a mixture with other compounds at this stage and requires purification.
- Analysis and Quality Control: The pure cashmeran molecule is analysed and subjected to quality control checks to ensure it meets industry standards.
In terms of chemical properties, cashmeran has a molecular weight of 206 g/mol and occurs as a white solid at room temperature, with a melting point of 27 °C. Its boiling point is reported to be 256 °C, although some tests indicate decomposition at 220 °C. Cashmeran is insoluble in water and hydrophobic, which makes it challenging to wash out from fabrics or hair. It has a bio-concentration factor (BCF) of 156 and an octanol-water partition coefficient (Log Kow) of 4.2, indicating low persistence and bioaccumulation potential.
Cashmeran is known to be a slight skin and eye irritant and a weak sensitiser, with an EC3 of 33%. It is not classified as toxic or as a CMR substance. Its short-term aquatic toxicity is >1 mg/kg for Daphnia, algae, and fish.
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Cashmeran's versatility and use in different fragrances
Cashmeran is a highly versatile synthetic molecule that has become a staple in modern perfumery. Its unique olfactory profile makes it a perfect fit for a wide range of fragrances, from woody and musky to floral and spicy compositions. Its versatility is further enhanced by its ability to blend seamlessly with other ingredients, creating sophisticated and captivating accords.
The molecule was first synthesized in 1968 by John Hall of IFF and has since evolved to meet the changing trends and demands of the perfume industry. Cashmeran is often used as a base note, adding depth and longevity to fragrances. Its warm and comforting aroma, reminiscent of cashmere, creates a feeling of enveloping sensuality. This quality makes it a popular choice for oriental perfumes, such as Alien by Mugler, which combines cashmeran with jasmine sambac and white amber to create an iconic and mysterious scent.
Another example of cashmeran's versatility is its use in Sport de Paco Rabanne (1986) and Cacharel Lou Lou (1987), where it adds a unique twist to woody and floral chypre fragrances. It can also be found in Nasomatto Duro, a spicy-leathery alpha perfume, and is a key component in many oud compositions. Cashmeran's versatility extends to unisex fragrances as well, adding a touch of refinement and seduction.
The compound's versatility is not limited to its olfactory qualities but also includes its performance characteristics. Cashmeran is known for its excellent stability and long durability, contributing to the persistence of the fragrance on the skin. Its hydrophobic nature, however, makes it unsuitable for certain applications, such as household odorants. Nonetheless, cashmeran's unique aroma and performance characteristics make it an indispensable tool for perfumers, allowing them to create innovative and captivating fragrances.
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History of cashmeran in perfumery
The history of cashmeran in perfumery dates back to the 1960s when the International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) company began researching and creating a revolutionary synthetic olfactory note. The goal was to find an alternative to expensive and rare natural ingredients such as ambergris and sandalwood.
In 1968, Dr. John Hall of IFF synthesized cashmeran for the first time. However, some sources claim that it was discovered in 1970. Hall is also known for creating Iso E Super. This synthetic molecule was designed to capture the warm, woody, and amber qualities of precious raw materials while being more economical and sustainable.
Cashmeran quickly gained popularity among perfumers and fragrance houses due to its versatility and ability to harmonize with various ingredients, creating unique and captivating accords. It added depth and sensuality to perfumes, with its warm and comforting aroma, and enhanced the stability and durability of fragrances.
Over time, cashmeran continued to evolve and adapt to the changing trends and demands of the perfume industry. It became a key element in many iconic fragrances, contributing to their unique character and recognisable olfactory signature. Today, it remains a widely used ingredient in perfumery, offering a sustainable and creative alternative to natural ingredients. Its history reflects the constant evolution of the perfume industry, where the quest for new molecules and olfactory sensations drives perfumers to push the boundaries of fragrance creation.
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Frequently asked questions
Cashmeran is a synthetic molecule used in perfumery. It is a chemical compound that adds depth and sensuality to perfumes, creating a captivating and refined aroma.
Cashmeran has a multifaceted olfactory profile. It is often described as having a warm, woody, and musky scent with spicy, coniferous, and floral nuances. Some people compare it to the smell of cashmere fabric or wet asphalt.
Cashmeran is valued for its versatility and stability. It can be used in a wide range of perfume genres and blends harmoniously with other ingredients to create unique accords. Cashmeran also adds longevity to fragrances, ensuring the scent lasts longer on the skin.
Cashmeran is a key element in many iconic fragrances, including Alien by Mugler, Olympéa Acqua by Paco Rabanne, Amarige by Givenchy, Sport de Paco Rabanne, and Cacharel Lou Lou. It is also used in Nasomatto Duro, a spicy-leathery alpha perfume, and various oud compositions.
