The Secret Behind Civet Perfumes

what is civet in perfume

Civet, also known as civet musk or civet oil, is a glandular secretion produced by the Viverridae species. The natural form of civet is a yellowish, paste-like substance with a strong, putrid odour. However, when diluted and used in perfumery, it becomes pleasantly aromatic, adding a seductive, animalistic musk to fragrances. While natural civet was historically sourced from animals, primarily in Ethiopia, most perfumes now use synthetic alternatives due to ethical concerns and changing consumer preferences.

Characteristics Values
Description Soft, almost liquid material with a pale yellow colour when fresh, darkening in the light and becoming salve-like in consistency
Odor Strong, putrid as a pure substance, but pleasantly and sweetly aromatic when diluted
Preparation for perfumery Solvent extraction to yield a tincture (10 or 20 percent), an absolute, or a resinoid
Chemical composition Civetone (2.5-3.4% concentration), cyclopentadecanone, cyclohexadecanone, cycloheptadecanone, 6-cis-cycloheptadecenone, indole, and skatole
Source Glandular secretion produced by both sexes of Viverridae species, including African civet, large Indian civet, and small Indian civet
Historical usage Used by Arabic perfumers in the 10th century, mentioned by historian al-Masudi; used by Cleopatra; commonly used in perfumes until the 1970s
Ethical concerns Animal notes of natural origin are forbidden in modern perfumery due to animal cruelty and the stressful conditions for civets; synthetic alternatives are now used

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Civet is a soft, yellowish secretion from the perineal glands of civets

Civet is a soft, yellowish secretion produced by the perineal glands of civets, also known as civet cats. These small, carnivorous mammals resemble cats but are more closely related to martens and are native to Ethiopia and the African continent more broadly. The secretion, also referred to as civet musk or civet oil, is produced by both male and female civets of the Viverridae species. This includes the African civet, large Indian civet, and small Indian civet.

In its raw form, civet has a strong, putrid odour that has been described as faecal and nauseating. However, when diluted, the scent becomes pleasantly and sweetly aromatic, with a musky fragrance. The chemical compound civetone, present in civet oil at a concentration of 2.5% to 3.4%, is primarily responsible for its distinctive odour. The oil also contains other ketones and small amounts of indole and skatole, which contribute to its scent.

Civet has a long history of use in perfumery, dating back to the 10th century when Arabic perfumers first discovered its potential. It was prized for its unique scent and ability to enhance and prolong the fragrance of perfumes. Civet was used in both men's and women's perfumes, as well as unisex fragrances such as Jicky by Guerlain and Chanel No. 5. The raw material was traditionally sourced from civets kept in captivity, mainly in Ethiopia, where it was farmed for its secretion.

However, due to ethical concerns and public opinion shifts, the use of natural civet in perfumery has declined. Civets are now protected in many countries, including the United States, which bans the importation of civets due to their potential to transmit the SARS virus. Today, most perfumes use synthetic alternatives to civet, such as civetone, or create bases that mimic the animal's scent using a combination of synthetic and plant-based materials. These synthetic reproductions capture the essence of civet while ensuring the welfare of civets and addressing consumer preferences for animal-friendly products.

While natural civet is no longer widely used in the perfume industry, it holds a significant place in the history of perfumery and continues to be associated with some of the world's most iconic fragrances.

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It has a strong, putrid odour but becomes sweetly aromatic when diluted

Civet is a soft, almost liquid material with a strong, putrid odour. It is a glandular secretion produced by both sexes of the Viverridae species, which includes the African civet, large Indian civet, and small Indian civet. Civets are not actually cats, despite their resemblance to them. The animal uses these secretions, produced in the form of fat in its perineal glands, to mark its territory.

In its natural form, civet has an overpowering, nauseating faecal smell. However, when diluted, it becomes pleasantly and sweetly aromatic. This process involves treating the civet with a volatile solvent and infusing it in alcohol. The result is a seductive, mesmerising, animalistic musk that adds warmth and radiance to fragrances, particularly florals.

The use of civet in perfumery dates back to the 10th century when Arabic perfumers found the ingredient highly desirable after heavy dilution. It was also used by Ethiopians as pure fat and as a rare and appreciated perfume. The name "civet" was once used to designate tobacco shops, and some still carry this name today.

Due to the ethical concerns surrounding the harvesting of civet, most perfumes now use a synthetic version. The synthetic civet is composed of a mixture of several synthetic animal raw materials and plant-based natural materials that give off animal scents. This change was driven by the actions and campaigns of animal defenders, as well as shifting public opinion. Today, animal notes of natural origin are forbidden in the perfume industry, with the exception of grey amber, which does not involve animal suffering.

shunscent

Natural civet is sourced from civet cats kept in captivity, primarily in Ethiopia

Civet, also known as civet musk or civet oil, is a soft, almost liquid material with a strong odour. It is produced by several species of civets, which are small, carnivorous, marten-like mammals. Natural civet is sourced from the perineal glands of these animals, which they use to mark their territory. The secretion is pale yellow when fresh, but it darkens in light and becomes salve-like in consistency.

Civet has a long history of use in perfumery, dating back to at least the 10th century when it was mentioned by the Arab historian al-Masudi. It was also appreciated by Cleopatra for its distinctive scent. The natural form of civet has an overpowering, almost nauseating faecal smell, but when diluted, it becomes pleasantly and sweetly aromatic.

For many years, civet was sourced directly from civets kept in captivity on farms, primarily in Ethiopia, where the animal thrives. African civets are typically kept in cages and produce three to four grams of civet per week. In 2000, civet sold for about $500 per kilogram. However, due to ethical concerns and changing consumer demands, most perfumes now use a synthetic version of civet.

The use of natural animal products in perfumery has declined due to animal welfare concerns and the availability of synthetic alternatives. Today, most civet is synthetically recreated, and the use of natural civet in perfumery is generally not condoned. However, it is important to note that some small perfumers may still secretly source natural civet.

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Due to ethical concerns, synthetic alternatives are now predominantly used in perfumes

Civet, also known as civet musk, civet oil, or civetone, is a soft, yellowish, almost liquid material that is secreted by the Viverridae species of animals, specifically the African civet, the large Indian civet, and the small Indian civet. The secretion comes from the perineal glands of these animals, who use it to mark their territory. In its pure form, civet has a strong, putrid, and almost nauseating faecal odour. However, when diluted, it takes on a pleasantly sweet and aromatic fragrance. Due to its unique properties, civet has been a popular ingredient in perfumery for centuries, adding warmth, radiance, and a seductive, animalistic musk to fragrances, particularly florals.

The use of civet in perfumery has a long history, with records of its use by Arabic perfumers in the 10th century and Cleopatra in Antiquity. For many years, civet was sourced directly from civet animals, which were often kept in captivity on farms, particularly in Ethiopia. However, the methods used to obtain civet raised ethical concerns, as the animals were kept in cages and subjected to stress in order to produce the secretion. In the 1970s, the campaigns of animal rights activists led to a shift in public opinion, and most perfumers abandoned the use of natural civet.

Today, due to ethical concerns and the protection of animals, the use of natural animal notes, including civet, in perfumery is prohibited in many places. Synthetic alternatives, such as civettone, are now predominantly used to recreate the scent of civet without causing harm to animals. These synthetic products are created through solvent extraction and can be composed of a mixture of synthetic animal raw materials and plant-based natural materials. While some small perfumers may still secretly source natural civet, the synthetic alternatives allow for the creation of similar fragrances without the ethical implications.

The synthetic production of civet involves treating the raw material with a volatile solvent and infusing it in alcohol. This process softens the strong scent of civet and allows it to integrate seamlessly with other scents such as rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. The resulting fragrance has improved cohesion and an almost aphrodisiac-like sweetness that has made it a popular note in many perfumes. Synthetic civet can be found in perfumes such as Chanel's N° 5 (the 1925 edition) and Jicky by Guerlain, among others.

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Perfumers use civet for its animalistic musk and its ability to enhance cohesion in fragrances

Civet, also known as civet musk or civet oil, is a soft, almost liquid material produced by the Viverridae species of civet. It is a glandular secretion that has a strong, putrid odour in its pure form. However, when diluted, it becomes pleasantly and sweetly aromatic. The use of civet in perfumery has a long history, with records of its use by Arabic perfumers in the 10th century.

Perfumers are drawn to civet for its unique, animalistic musk. In its natural state, civet has an overpowering, faecal odour. However, when diluted and skillfully incorporated into fragrances, it transforms into a warm, radiant, and seductive scent. The raw, animalistic notes of civet add an intriguing depth to perfumes, making it a popular choice for creating notoriously seductive scents.

The chemical compound civetone, present in civet oil at a concentration of 2.5 to 3.4%, is primarily responsible for its distinctive odour. Civets produce three to four grams of civet per week, and in the year 2000, civet sold for about five hundred dollars per kilogram. Most civet is produced on African farms, where the animals are kept in captivity.

Due to ethical concerns and the stress endured by civets in captivity, the use of natural civet in perfumery has declined. Today, most perfumes opt for synthetic versions, such as civettone, to replicate the scent without causing animal suffering. This shift towards synthetic substitutes is a response to changing consumer preferences and the campaigns of animal welfare advocates.

Despite the move away from natural civet, some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, showcasing the enduring allure of this animalistic musk. The use of civet enhances the cohesion of fragrances, blending seamlessly with floral notes like rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. Its inclusion adds an almost aphrodisiac-like sweetness to perfumes, making it a key ingredient in many iconic scents.

Frequently asked questions

Civet is a soft, almost liquid material that is secreted by the Viverridae species from their perineal glands. It is used as a flavour and in perfumery.

In its natural form, civet has a strong, putrid, faecal odour. However, once diluted, it becomes pleasantly and sweetly aromatic, adding warmth and radiance to fragrances.

Perfumers use animalic notes like civet for the raw sexiness they deliver to perfumes. Civet adds an almost aphrodisiac-like sweetness to fragrances and enhances their cohesion.

Natural animal notes in perfume creation are forbidden today for ethical reasons. Most perfumes now use a synthetic version of civet or a base created by the perfumer-creator.

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