Heidi Norton
Aquatic fragrances are perfumes or colognes that are inspired by water, most usually the ocean. They are sometimes called oceanic or marine fragrances. Aquatic fragrances rose to popularity in the 1990s, and are often associated with that decade and the 2000s. They are typically described as refreshing, calm, and breezy, and are said to evoke a sense of tranquility and connection to nature.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Main scent | Water |
| Other names | Oceanic, Marine |
| Notes | Coriander, Red Seaweed Essence, Iris, Jasmine, Mint, Brown Sugar, Italian Lemon, Driftwood, Sea Salt, Water Lily, Lily, Lotus, Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Musk, Amberette, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Helychrisum, Lily of the Valley, Sand, Seaweed, Citrus, Woody notes, Mandarin Orange, Sicilian Lemon, Calone, Neroli, Mock Holly, Tiare Tahiti, Chinese Jasmine, Arabian Jasmine |
| Examples | L’Eau d’Issey, L’Eau Magnetic, Mr Maritime, Acqua Di Gio, Kenzo Homme, Aqua Motu, Millésime Impérial, Un Air de Bretagne, Azur Riviera, Nuda Veritas, Sailing Day, Salt Air |
| First used | 1950s |
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What You'll Learn
Aquatic fragrances are inspired by water
Aquatic fragrances are known for their refreshing, calming, and rejuvenating qualities. They are often characterised by light and airy notes, providing a sense of tranquility and connection to nature. These fragrances can be quite versatile, ranging from the gentle to the intense. Some may focus on the serenity of placid pools or the gentle breeze of the sea, while others may capture the unmitigated chaos of the ocean or the rush of a waterfall.
The use of Calone, with its unique ability to evoke the sea, is a defining feature of aquatic fragrances. However, other ingredients and their combinations can also create an aquatic impression. For example, bergamot can provide a "wet" note, while certain ingredients can evoke the freshness of air or the mineral quality of water on rocks. These fragrances often include notes of seaweed, sea salt, and driftwood to enhance their aquatic nature.
While aquatic fragrances were most popular in the 1990s, they still have a dedicated following, particularly among men. Today, perfumers are innovating by incorporating under-explored notes, such as mango and rhubarb, to create more natural and unique aquatic fragrances that stand out from the typical aquatic fragrances of the past.
Overall, aquatic fragrances provide a sensory experience that captures the many facets of water, from the calm and serene to the energetic and powerful. They offer a refreshing and revitalising escape, transporting the wearer to a world of clear waters and sea breezes.
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They can be further classified into oceanic and marine fragrances
Aquatic fragrances are those that take inspiration from water, most usually the ocean. They are sometimes called "oceanic" or "marine" fragrances. While the terms are often used interchangeably, there are some subtle differences between them.
The term "aquatic" is used to describe fragrances with a water and airy quality, like the kind of atmospheric smell you'd get from a freshwater pond. Aquatic fragrances are often described as having a shower-like or watery scent. They are usually considered to be fruity and fresh, with a melony aroma. They are also known for their reliance on a material called calone, which brings the impression of a sea breeze, of crystalline waters and supreme freshness.
"Oceanic" fragrances are those that specifically smell like the ocean, with saltwater and a briny quality. They are often described as having a salty or resinous scent. While oceanic fragrances can be incredibly luxurious, they are sometimes criticised for being overly reliant on "calone".
"Marine" fragrances are similar to oceanic fragrances in that they smell like the ocean. However, they are broader in scope and can refer to a variety of water bodies, including rivers, lakes, and seas. Marine fragrances are often described as having a briny smell associated with marine life. They are usually considered to be salty and organic, with salt aromas, seaweed, driftwood, ocean air, and oakmoss.
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Aquatic fragrances became popular in the 90s
The 1980s were a time of strong, heavy fragrances, with spice bombs and opulent perfumes. So, when the 1990s arrived, it's no surprise that people wanted a change. The 90s brought a new era of minimalism, and aquatic fragrances were born. These perfumes and colognes offered a refreshing contrast to the rich scents of the previous decade. They were airy and lightweight, with a water and airy quality, reminiscent of the ocean or a freshwater pond.
Aquatic fragrances rely heavily on a material called Calone, which gives the impression of a sea breeze and crystalline waters. They also often contain Ambroxan, a vegan alternative to ambergris, a whale-derived ingredient, and Aquazone, which has a saltier, more iodine-like aroma. These aromachemicals, with their ozonic, crisp, and slightly fruity notes, were beloved by perfumers in the 90s.
The 90s aquatic trend was so popular that it became ubiquitous, with every brand creating their own take on these fresh, watery scents. L’Eau d’Issey, for example, was described as the scent of every boy in the 90s. This popularity, however, also led to a perception of aquatic fragrances as cheap.
Despite this, aquatic fragrances have endured, with some of the most popular 90s scents still beloved today. The category has also evolved, with modern aquatic perfumes being richer and more complex. These fragrances often pair their breezy freshness with woods, florals, or musks, creating a beautiful balance and a dreamy, beachy escape in a bottle.
The appeal of aquatic fragrances is clear, with their ability to transport you to a calm, watery zen and evoke a sense of overall well-being. They are a refreshing and calming olfactory reset, a fragrant wet wipe to wash away the heavy scents of the past.
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They are created using a lab-made molecule called Calone
Aquatic fragrances are inspired by the scent of water, most usually the ocean. They are sometimes called "oceanic" or "marine" fragrances. Aquatic fragrances first rose to popularity in the 1990s, providing an olfactory reset from the heavy perfumes of the 1980s. They have since become a staple in the fragrance industry, with many people still loving them today.
Aquatic fragrances are often created using a lab-made molecule called Calone, or methylbenzodioxepinone, which has the trade name Calone 1951. Calone was discovered in 1966 by chemists from Camilli, Albert & Laloue, a fragrance company founded in 1830 and owned by Coty until 1963. The name Calone comes from the first letter of the company (C, A, L) plus ketone. The “1951” relates to the chemical registration number.
Calone is an unusual chemical compound that has an intense "sea breeze" note with slight floral and fruity overtones. It is similar in structure to brown algae pheromones and is distantly related in structure to the benzodiazepine class of sedatives. In the fragrance industry, it is known as "watermelon ketone". Calone has been used as a scent component since the 1980s and became widely used in the 1990s after its patent expired and it entered mass production.
The use of Calone in fragrances helps to create the impression of a fresh seashore or sea breeze, with crystalline waters and supreme freshness. It brings a unique, watery character to fragrances, making it an indispensable ingredient for creating contemporary aquatic scents.
Notable fragrances that feature Calone include Issey Miyake's L'eau d'Issey (1992), Pierre Bourdon's Cool Water for Davidoff (1988), and Aramis New West For Her (1990).
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Aquatic fragrances are known for their refreshing and calming scent
Aquatic fragrances are inspired by water, most usually the ocean, and are sometimes called "oceanic" or "marine" fragrances. They rose to prominence in the 1990s, acting as an olfactory reset from the strong perfumes of the 1980s. Aquatic fragrances are known for their refreshing and calming scent, capturing the feeling of a sea breeze or being near water. They are popular among those who enjoy clean and breezy scents, evoking a sense of tranquility and a connection to nature.
The main 'aquatic' scent in perfumery comes from a lab-made molecule called Calone, which was first synthesised by Pfizer in 1966. Calone creates a powerful marine aroma that reminds people of the sea, as well as cucumber and watermelon. It is sometimes referred to as 'watermelon ketone'. Aquatic fragrances often feature notes of fresh water, rain, and the sea, with some incorporating floral notes as well.
L’Eau d’Issey, for example, is technically a floral fragrance but has aquatic tones. It pairs notes of lily and lotus with the image of white flowers floating on a clear, placid body of water. Its men's fragrance, L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme, is a more obvious aquatic, pairing clear waters with warm wood notes, like driftwood gently floating down a Japanese stream.
Another example of an aquatic fragrance is Sailing Day by Sephora, which features notes of aquatic accord, coriander, and red seaweed essence. It recalls the memory of soft rolling waves and the spirit of the sea through aromatic and pure notes.
In recent years, the popularity of aquatic fragrances has declined, perhaps due to their association with the 90s and 2000s, or because of the synthetic molecule Calone feeling like a product of its time. However, many people still enjoy aquatic fragrances, and some companies have created new iterations with unique notes to innovate this genre.
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Frequently asked questions
Aquatic fragrances are inspired by water, most usually the ocean. They are sometimes called "oceanic" or "marine" fragrances. Aquatic fragrances rose to popularity in the 1990s and are known for their refreshing, revitalizing, and calming qualities.
Aquatic fragrances can create the impression of a sea breeze, clear water, and freshness. They rely heavily on a lab-made molecule called Calone, which gives off a marine aroma that reminds people of the sea, as well as cucumber and watermelon.
Popular aquatic fragrances include L’Eau d’Issey, L’Eau Magnetic by Miller Harris, Acqua Di Gio, and Kenzo Homme.
