The Significance Of Scents: Understanding Perfume's Power

Perfume is a substance that emits a pleasant odour, usually in the form of a liquid containing fragrant oils or synthetic compounds. It is typically applied to the skin to make oneself smell nice, but it can also be used to scent objects and living spaces. The word perfume comes from the Latin perfumare, meaning to smoke through. The art of making perfumes, or perfumery, has a long history, with ancient texts and archaeological excavations indicating its use in some of the earliest human civilizations. Today, perfumes are commonly classified by their concentration of aromatic compounds, with different terms such as parfum, eau de parfum, and eau de toilette indicating the intensity and longevity of the scent.

The history of perfume

The Persians took over the use of perfume as a sign of political status, but it was the Greeks and Romans who began to view it as a form of art, producing perfumes en masse and with consistent quality. The ancient Greeks can be credited with creating the first liquid perfume, but it was the development of distillation by the Arabs that made perfume manufacture viable.

Perfume enjoyed huge success in the 17th century, especially in France, where hygiene was pretty spotty and fragrances were used to mask unpleasant body odours. In England, perfumes were used extensively during the reigns of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. Elizabeth could not tolerate bad smells, so all public places were scented during her rule.

In the 19th century, changing tastes and the development of chemistry laid the foundations for modern perfumery. At the turn of the century, perfume was usually derived from a single-flower fragrance, whereas today, perfumes are extremely complex, made up of many natural and synthetic chemicals, often referred to as "notes" or "overtones." Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume created by applying modern chemical principles and the first to contain synthetics.

The first stage in making a perfume is the extraction of fragrant essential oils from plants, with distillation being the most common method. The oils are then diluted with alcohol, which also serves as a fixative, giving fragrances their long-lasting effect by delaying evaporation.

Today, both synthetic and natural ingredients are used in perfumery, with natural components including extracts of flowers, leaves, roots, and citrus fruit. Animal extracts derived from musk, whales, or beaver are also used. Fragrances are categorized according to the concentration of essential oils they contain, with the most concentrated and expensive form being called "parfum."

Perfume has a polarizing effect on people, with some loving the chic and sensual nature of it and others finding it choking and unpleasant. However, there is no denying that perfume has come a long way since its ancient beginnings, evolving to match modern times.

How perfume is made

The word "perfume" comes from the Latin "per fumum", meaning "through smoke". Perfumes were originally meant to emulate nature's pleasant aromas, and natural oils were extracted from plants to become the main components of perfumes in the ancient world.

Perfume is made by collecting ingredients, extracting oils, blending, aging, and quality control.

Ingredients

Perfume ingredients can include various plants, fruits, woods, and even animal secretions. Other resources like alcohol, coal, tars, and petrochemicals can be used during the manufacturing process.

Extracting Oils

There are several methods of extracting oils from plants:

• Steam distillation: Steam passing through the plant material turns the essential oil into gas, which is then passed through tubes, cooled, and liquefied.
• Boiling: Oils can be extracted by boiling flower petals in water.
• Solvent extraction: Flowers are placed in large rotating tanks and benzene or petroleum ether is poured over them, which extracts the essential oils.
• Enfleurage: Flowers are spread out on grease-coated glass sheets and carefully placed in tiers between wooden frames. The petals are pressed in and remain within the greasy mixture for up to a few weeks, after which they are removed by hand and replaced with fresh petals.
• Maceration: A process similar to enfleurage, but warmed fats are used to soak up the flower fragrance.
• Expression: The oldest and simplest method, where essential oils are collected by pressing, squeezing, or compressing peels of citrus fruits such as lemons and oranges.

Blending

Once the essential oils are extracted and collected, they are blended according to a specific formula. This formula is predetermined by a master in the perfume industry, often referred to as a "nose". Many of these formulas are carefully created over several years and can include hundreds of different ingredients.

Aging

Aging occurs after the perfume concentrate has completely diluted in alcohol, a process that may take up to a month. It is then kept undisturbed in a cool, dark area for several months to one year. This allows for the permanent bonding of the alcohol and the essential oils.

Quality Control

Quality control ensures that the finished perfume does not contain any harmful or undesired products, some of which could be banned. This protects both the brand's reputation and public health.

Different types of perfume

The world of perfume is complex, with a wide variety of fragrances available. The different types of perfumes are distinguished by their concentrations and strengths, which refer to the amount of perfume oil dissolved in the solvent, usually alcohol and water. The higher the concentration of perfume oil, the stronger the fragrance and the longer it will last.

• Parfum: Parfum, also known as Pure Perfume or Extrait de Parfum, has the highest concentration of perfume oil, typically between 20-30%. This powerful and long-lasting fragrance can often be smelled on clothes for days and is the most expensive option. Due to its high concentration, a little goes a long way, and it is recommended for people with sensitive skin.
• Eau de Parfum (EdP): Eau de Parfum has a slightly lower concentration of perfume oil, ranging from 15-20%. It provides a long-lasting fragrance, typically lasting 4 to 8 hours, and is less expensive than Parfum. Eau de Parfum is one of the most common types of perfumes available and is suitable for both day and evening wear.
• Eau de Toilette (EdT): Eau de Toilette contains 8-12% perfume oil, making it a lighter and fresher option. This type of perfume is popular for daytime wear or warmer climates. It is generally more affordable and offers a wide variety of fragrances to choose from. However, the scent may not last as long, and reapplication may be needed throughout the day.
• Eau de Cologne (EdC): Eau de Cologne has a much lower concentration of perfume oil, usually between 2-6%. It is known for its light and refreshing scent, perfect for a quick spritz during the day. While it is commonly associated with men's fragrances, there are also feminine eau de colognes available. The scent typically lasts only a couple of hours.
• Eau Fraiche: Eau Fraiche is the most diluted version of fragrance, with only 1-2% perfume oil. It is even lighter than Eau de Cologne and offers a very subtle and fresh scent. This type of perfume is ideal for those who prefer a minimalistic fragrance or have sensitive skin. However, it typically lasts less than an hour, requiring frequent reapplication.
• Perfume Oils (Attar): Perfume oils are made with an essential oil base and do not contain any alcohol or water. The concentration of fragrance oils can vary, but they usually contain around 20% fragrance oils, with the rest being a carrier oil. Perfume oils are long-lasting and are applied directly to the skin, providing a pure and undiluted fragrance experience.

In addition to these main types, there are also niche and designer perfumes. Niche fragrances emphasize unique ingredients and tend to be more potent and enduring, while designer perfumes are widely available and focus on market appeal and familiar scents.

How to apply perfume

Applying perfume is probably the final step in your beauty routine—a spritz here, a dab there, and you’re out the door. But there’s more to it than meets the eye when it comes to wearing fragrances. Here are some tips on how to apply perfume like a pro:

• Don't rub perfume into your skin. This causes the top notes to fade and evaporate before they can settle. Instead, let the perfume slowly mix with your skin's natural oils. This is what makes your scent last and can make the same scent smell slightly different from person to person.
• Spray perfume onto your pulse points. These are areas where your veins sit closest to your skin, so you can feel your pulse. It's places like the inside of your wrists, inner elbows, below your belly button, behind your earlobes, and the back of your knees. These warm spots emit extra body heat, which helps to diffuse the scent.
• Where you store your perfume matters. Water, humidity, and drastic temperature changes can alter a perfume's composition and shorten its shelf life. Light, especially sunlight, can also break down a perfume's makeup. The best place to store perfume is somewhere cool, dark, and dry, like the inside of a bedroom dresser or vanity drawer.
• Spritz, then walk into your perfume. The key to keeping your perfume pleasant but not overpowering is to diffuse it all over, rather than concentrating it in one area. When you wear perfume, you want the fragrance to complement and enhance your natural scent, not mask it. Spray your perfume in front of you, then walk right into it and back out.
• Feel free to spray your clothes. Applying perfume to your clothing is a great way to keep your scent going all day—just make sure it's not something that can stain. Fragrance interacts with fabrics differently than skin, so it'll probably smell lighter or slightly different.
• Apply it post-shower. Perfume absorbs better into the skin when it's warm and the pores are open. So it's a good idea to apply it after a shower when the skin is dried off but still warm.
• Moisturize first. Perfume evaporates quickly on dry skin. Applying an unscented body lotion or a touch of Vaseline first will help keep your skin soft and give the perfume oils something to hold on to so that your scent lasts longer.
• Only spritz certain formulas in your hair. Alcohol-based formulas like parfum and some eau de toilette or eau de cologne can dry out your strands. Only apply pure perfume oils to your hair or use a water-based formula.

The future of perfume

Sustainability and Eco-Friendly Innovations

The fragrance industry is witnessing a significant shift towards sustainability and eco-friendliness. Biotechnology is increasingly being employed to produce eco-friendly alternatives to traditional ingredients, with companies striving to become carbon-negative and reduce their environmental impact. Refillable perfume bottles and zero-waste packaging are also gaining traction, reducing the waste generated by single-use packaging.

Synthetic Molecules

Synthetic molecules are a significant technological advancement, allowing perfumers to access a broader range of scents and create fragrances that were previously impossible. These molecules enhance fragrance stability, ensuring a consistent scent over time, and enable the development of hypoallergenic formulations that minimise skin irritation.

AI and Machine Learning

AI algorithms and machine learning are disrupting the creative process by analysing vast data sets to propose new scent combinations. This technology also enables personalisation, using individual preferences and even genetic information to create unique fragrances tailored to a person's olfactory profile.

Digital Fragrance Experiences

Virtual and augmented reality (VR and AR) are being utilised to create immersive experiences beyond simply smelling a perfume. VR can transport users to the origins of a fragrance's ingredients, while AR apps allow consumers to interact with perfume bottles and their branding virtually. Digital scent technology is also emerging, allowing users to experience fragrances through their smartphones or VR headsets, potentially revolutionising the way perfumes are sampled.

Storytelling and Intimacy

Storytelling and intimacy remain vital in the fragrance industry, with brands seeking to connect with consumers through meaningful narratives. The selection of a perfume is increasingly influenced by mood or occasion, and brands must decipher their message and meaning to resonate with their target audience.

Wellness and Self-Care

Wellness and self-care are also driving trends in the fragrance space, with new formats and ingredient mixes introduced to promote wellbeing, from fostering rest and deep sleep to boosting mood and energy.

Frequently asked questions