Oud, also known as agarwood, is a highly prized and expensive ingredient in perfumery. It is a natural resin extracted from the heartwood of the Aquilaria tree, which is native to Southeast Asia, India and Bangladesh. When the tree becomes infected with a type of mould or fungus, it produces a dark, fragrant resin, which then seeps into the wood. This resin is what we know as oud. The process of resin formation can take up to 300 years, and only an estimated 2% of Aquilaria trees produce it naturally, making oud extremely rare and valuable.
Oud has been used for centuries in the Middle East, where it is known as black gold and is considered a spiritual substance. In recent times, it has become popular in Western perfumery, where it is often used as a base note, providing a warm, woody, animalic scent with subtle smoky and sweet notes.
- Gucci Guilty Intense Oud EDP
- Dunhill Icon Absolute EDP
- Creed Royal Oud Millesime EPD
- Clean Reserve Sueded Oud
- Comme des Garcons Wonderwood EDP
- Atelier Cologne Emeraude Agar Cologne Absolute
- YSL M7 Oud Absolu EDT
Unisex fragrances
Oud is a staple in Middle Eastern perfumery and has been growing in popularity in the West. It is a versatile ingredient that can be paired with unexpected ingredients such as citrusy bergamot, sparkling red berries, and plush irises to create modern interpretations.
Gucci Guilty Intense Oud EDP
A unisex release from the Italian luxury brand, this fragrance is smoky throughout thanks to incense and frankincense notes. It is sophisticated and sexy, offering a great designer oud fragrance without the hefty price tag of many niche options.
Chopard Oud Malaki Cologne
This cologne twists the usual Chopard fragrance flair into something heavier, inspired by seduction and the Orient. While it leans towards the masculine side of unisex, it is carefully balanced with soft notes of lavender and grapefruit.
Al Haramain Amber Oud Gold Edition Perfume
With lighter top notes of bergamot and melon, this modern release has less intense notes than traditional oud. Deeper, underlying musk and vanilla fragrance notes ensure that it is still unmistakably an oud perfume.
Jo Malone Velvet Rose & Oud Perfume
This fragrance takes the smokiness of oud and pairs it with the contrasting sweet scent of rose, resulting in a sophisticated, gourmand, and decadent bouquet.
Tom Ford Private Blend Oud Wood
Combining the rare oud wood with exotic rosewood, cardamom, Chinese pepper, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean, vanilla, and amber, this fragrance is a pioneer as one of the first marketable unisex perfumes to feature oud as a key ingredient.
Acqua di Parma Signatures of the Sun Oud & Spice
Formulated using the rarest and most highly prized variety of agarwood, this fragrance has a golden and zesty opening with transparent notes of bergamot and rose, followed by the sweet and fruity facets of raspberry. The warmth of oud then reveals itself, paired with precious wood, cistus labdanum, and the earthy tones of patchouli.
Habibi New York Desert Oud
This fragrance contains fresh, citrusy scents as its opening top note, which blend with floral heart scents before exuding a rich, musky agarwood fragrance. Labdanum, amber, guaiac wood, musk, and patchouli complement the woody base, while a touch of spice and greens add an edge to the final scent.
Habibi New York Jasmine Oud
A fresh and clean fragrance, Jasmine Oud introduces top notes of warm, spicy, and green scents. The middle notes of jasmine, rose, and geranium add a sensual touch.
Habibi New York Sahara Rose
The pairing of rose and oud is becoming a leading element of many unisex and masculine scents. The scent profile of rose is clean, with a fresh citrusy zeal, while the agarwood extract adds depth to a rose fragrance.
Habibi New York Honeyed Tobacco & Oud
Leather is a popular unisex scent, and it pairs beautifully with resinous agarwood. This fragrance is perfect for someone who appreciates the synergy between leather and oud.
Habibi New York Embrace
The mysterious smoky smell of the resinous agarwood is uplifted by sandalwood in this fragrance, creating an irresistible combination of rich aromas.
Miller Harris La Fumee Alexandrie
This woody musk is inspired by the ancient rituals of scenting through smoke. Rose Damascene absolute from Turkey is twisted around the dry heat of papyrus and sandalwood, while the intensity of oud is tempered with a spicy blend of cumin and cinnamon.
Initio Oud for Greatness Neo EDP
With excellent longevity and scent throw, this fragrance is an excellent starting point for oud novices, according to the brand's founder. The sweet, citrus-laced hint of berries feels bright and joyful against the woodiness of oud.
Initio Oud for Happiness
Part of the Black Gold Project Collection, this fragrance is said to rebalance energy levels and relax both the body and mind. It opens with a citrus burst of bergamot and ginger, followed by Virginia cedar and Indian oud. The scent closes with a sweet base of liquorice, vanilla, and musk, evoking strong emotions and lifting the mood.
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Floral perfumes
One example of a floral perfume containing oud notes is Jo Malone's Velvet Rose & Oud. This perfume is described as a "weighty, rich bouquet of roses, a spoonful of syrup oozing down the resinous tree, and a velvety, sophisticated second skin." It is an excellent introduction to oud perfumes, with its jammy notes and a gourmand, decadent undertone. The almost subtle oud aroma makes this perfume a delight to wear during the daytime, when it is powerful enough to catch your eye every so often but not so overpowering that it demands full attention.
Another example is Juliette Has A Gun's Another Oud. This perfume is described as "hot pink, red berries, sparkling sequins... if any of these resonate with you, then Another Oud is your poison." It is a cheerful scent with hints of raspberries, bergamot, and a base of fluffy, sweet musk.
For a more traditional olfactory pairing, try Hermès' Oud Alezan. This bold, spicy blend opens with a modern, just-sweet-enough floral note before unveiling the traditional spicy warmth beneath. If you're new to oud and want something statement-making yet wearable, this is a flawless choice.
For a bright oud, try Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Oud Satin Mood. Rather than a full blast of cloying oud, there is a note of creamy, vanilla-drizzled rose that will keep you coming back for more.
And for a floral perfume with excellent longevity, try Dior's Oud Ispahan. This is an unapologetic, roaring oud laced with velvety rose petals and an incense-like waft. Not one for the faint of heart, but it's guaranteed to turn heads in the best way.
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Oriental perfumes
Another oriental oud fragrance is The Oriental Oud by The Fragrance House, a unisex scent with top notes of bergamot and saffron, middle notes of rose, jasmine, and agarwood (oud), and base notes of musk and patchouli. This perfume is designed to showcase the iconic note of oud, polished and shaped by the perfumer to shine like a precious jewel without overpowering the other notes.
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Niche perfumes
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood
This fragrance is a luxurious blend of creamy vanilla, violet, rose, benzoin, and oud. Despite its delicate floral notes, it has incredible staying power due to the use of real oud oil. It's an elevated and elegant choice, perfect for sultry winter date nights.
Tom Ford Oud Wood
This fragrance is a bestseller and a pioneer as one of the first marketable unisex perfumes to feature oud as a key ingredient. It combines rare oud wood with exotic rosewood, cardamom, Chinese pepper, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean, vanilla, and amber. It's a sophisticated and spicy/amber/vanilla fragrance.
Acqua di Parma Oud
Acqua di Parma's take on oud is a well-balanced cologne with bright citrus top notes and warm agarwood. It's a versatile fragrance that can be worn year-round. The scent is similar to Dior's Oud Ispahan but with citrus notes instead of rose.
Creed Royal Oud
Creed is known as the "perfumer's perfumer," and their Royal Oud fragrance is a response to requests from clients for an Arabian oud-based scent. It's a unique and modern twist on classic oud scents, starting with a burst of pink pepper, lemon, and Sicilian bergamot before settling into a foundation of frankincense, musk, oud, and sandalwood.
Jo Malone Oud & Bergamot
This is a perfect "beginner oud" for those who are new to this note. It has a fresh, green citrus element that brings a bright and sparkling quality to the smooth cedar and resinous oud. It's a wearable and versatile fragrance that works for all seasons.
Byredo Mumbai Noise
This fragrance features notes of davana, coffee, tonka beans, and sandalwood, which are just as loud and spicy as oud. The combination prevents the oud from being overpowering, resulting in a woody and spicy scent.
Miller Harris Oud Eclat
Oud Eclat is an enchanting fragrance with notes of agarwood, marigold, cashmere wood, amber, fir balsam, nutmeg, moss, musk, leather, and sugar. It feels like a festive fragrance with its crisp, warm, and spicy character.
Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold
This scent combines honeyed resin, deep woody oudh, and a sparkling citrus splash of bergamot. It's like taking a stroll through a mystical forest, brimming with exotic aromas.
Initio Oud for Greatness
This fragrance from Initio Parfums Prives opens with invigorating top notes of lavender, saffron, and nutmeg, followed by a rich, woody heart of oud. The base notes of patchouli and musk add depth and complexity, creating a captivating and distinctive aroma.
Guerlain Oud Essentiel
Oud Essentiel is an epic woody and leather-based fragrance with a well-balanced, intense, and mellow character. It features notes of saffron, pelargonium, agarwood, rose, Atlas cedarwood, leather, incense, and guaiac wood.
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Spiritual rituals
Oud, also known as agarwood, is a highly prized scent that is considered spiritual and sacred in many cultures. It is believed to be calming and is used in meditation to enhance peace and tranquility.
Oud is derived from the resinous heartwood of the agar tree, which is primarily found in the dense forests of Southeast Asia, India, and Bangladesh. The tree creates this resin to protect itself from a parasitic mould called Phialophora parasitica. The resin is what gives the heartwood its distinctive scent. Due to the rarity of this process, occurring in only about 2% of agar trees, oud is incredibly expensive and highly valued.
In the Middle East, oud is known as "black gold" and is an integral part of Muslim culture. Agarwood chips are burned as incense in homes and places of worship, and the smoke is believed to carry prayers straight to the Creator. It is also offered to guests as an aromatic refreshment.
In Buddhist tradition, the most precious string of prayer beads is made from agarwood. Buddhists also use oud in meditation, steaming drops of the essential oil to enhance their practice.
In Japan, oud resin is burned in the traditional Kōdō ceremony, which is the art of appreciating incense. The burning of oud resin represents the start of a spiritual journey.
Oud is also mentioned in the Old Testament, referred to as an "incense tree". This reverence for oud has continued to the present day, with many people believing that it brings harmony and serenity to their homes and helps to eliminate negative energies.
The use of oud has been traced back to ancient times, with evidence found in various ancient scriptures and traditions, including Hebrew, Chinese, and Arabic civilisations.
With its complex and exquisite fragrance, oud is a precious gift of nature that has been cherished for millennia. Its spiritual significance and use in rituals around the world are a testament to its enduring appeal.
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Frequently asked questions
Oud is a fragrant oil extracted from the resin of the agar tree, also known as the aquilaria tree.
Oud is typically described as warm, woody, earthy, and sensual, with a slightly animalic note. Its scent can vary depending on the species of tree it comes from, the age of the wood, and whether the infection was natural or cultivated. Synthetic oud tends to be less animalic, and slightly sweeter and nuttier.
Oud is rare and in high demand. It is estimated that only one out of ten trees will naturally produce the resin, and the older the tree, the richer and more potent the resin. The extraction process is also time-consuming and labour-intensive.
Popular fragrances that feature oud include:
- Gucci Guilty Intense Oud EDP
- Creed Royal Oud Millesime EPD
- Clean Reserve Sueded Oud
- Atelier Cologne Emeraude Agar Cologne Absolute
- YSL M7 Oud Absolu EDT
- Jo Malone Velvet Rose & Oud
- Chopard Oud Malaki
Oud is commonly found in woodsy perfumes, but it can also be used in floral, oriental, unisex, and niche fragrances.