Ambergris, a waxy substance produced by sperm whales, is one of the most valuable raw materials in perfumery. It is often referred to as 'whale vomit', although it is actually excreted by the whale. It is an animal pheromone with a unique, complex scent that is highly prized in the fragrance industry. While natural ambergris is rare and expensive, many perfumes use synthetic ambergris or ambergris accords to achieve a similar effect. Notable perfumes that contain real ambergris include Baccarat Rouge 540, Guerlain Encens Mythique d'Orient, and Rosendo Mateu #5.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Odor profile | Marine, Animalic, Sweet, Salty, warm |
Source | Intestines of sperm whales |
Texture | Hard, Brittle, Sticky |
Color | White, grey, Brown, Black |
Synthetically recreated | Yes |
Perfumes with ambergris | Baccarat Rouge 540, Eau de Merveilles, Orca, Green Irish Tweed, BR540 Extrait, O Hira, Sir Winston, Silence The Sea, Gold Ambergris, Baikal Gris, Atlantic Ambergris, Guerlain Encens Mythique d'Orient, Creed, Roja Dove Danger, Irisoir, Sultan Pasha, Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Ambre Supreme |
What You'll Learn
Baccarat Rouge 540
The scent is described as luminous and sophisticated, with a poetic alchemy that blends floral and woody notes. The key notes of jasmine, saffron, cedarwood, and ambergris create a warm, elegant fragrance with a mysterious sillage. The jasmine facets are enhanced by the radiant saffron, while the ambergris adds a mineral touch to the composition. The scent is rounded off with the woody tones of freshly cut cedar, resulting in a caress of amber and woody florals on the skin.
While Baccarat Rouge 540 does contain ambergris, it is important to note that the amount of this ingredient is likely to be very low, as natural ambergris is extremely rare and expensive. Synthetic alternatives are often used to replicate the scent of ambergris, and it appears that Baccarat Rouge 540 primarily uses these synthetic recreations.
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Creed Green Irish Tweed
Created by Olivier Creed and Pierre Bourdon, Green Irish Tweed was launched in 1985 and has since become a signature scent of the house, with a huge celebrity following. It is a favourite of King Charles, who wore it on his wedding day, and has also been worn by Clint Eastwood and Arnold Schwarzenegger.
The fragrance opens with invigorating top notes of iris and lemon verbena, followed by middle notes of violet leaves. The base notes of ambergris and Mysore sandalwood give the fragrance a rich, dry, grassy, hay-like dry down. Green Irish Tweed is characterised by its fresh, sporty, and unforgettable scent.
The name and scent of Green Irish Tweed are inspired by the lush greenery of the Emerald Isle. It evokes a walk through the Irish countryside, with wild flowers and herbs warmed by a coastal breeze. The fragrance captures the elegance and sophistication of a well-tailored riding outfit and the finest tweed suit.
The use of ambergris in Green Irish Tweed adds a marine, animalic, and sweet scent to the fragrance. Ambergris is a valuable raw material in perfumery, derived from the intestines of sperm whales. It has a complex fragrance that can vary from light and sweet to strong and manure-like.
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Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Lover
Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male Lover is an oriental vanilla fragrance for men, launched in 2024. It was created by perfumers Natalie Gracia-Cetto and Quentin Bisch. The fragrance opens with top notes of white pepper and finger lime, followed by a heart of ambergris, sea notes, and musk. The base is a warm and inviting blend of vanilla and woody notes.
Le Male Lover is an ode to the confident and daring sailor, with a tattooed torso and a bold, sensual essence. The fragrance captures the essence of sun-kissed skin and the ocean spray, with a touch of pepper and lime. At its heart, carnal ambergris adds a soft, musky warmth. The scent culminates in a sensual blend of wood and vanilla, leaving a refined and memorable trail.
The limited-edition fragrance is presented in a metal box, adorned in ocean blue, reflecting the sailor's adventures at sea. It is an enticing addition to the Les Males crew, a tribute to one of Gaultier's fashion icons.
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Guerlain Encens Mythique d'Orient
Guerlain's Encens Mythique d'Orient is a unisex oriental woody fragrance, launched in 2012, and created by Thierry Wasser. The perfume is inspired by frankincense, and its top notes include rose, aldehydes, and saffron, with middle notes of pink pepper, patchouli, and vetiver, and base notes of ambergris, incense, and woody notes. The fragrance is described as musky, oriental, and sweet, with a touch of saltiness and warmth. The scent is said to be enigmatic, mysterious, and bold, with a smoky effect and a divine, emotional feel to it. The bottle is designed with a deep grey shade, contrasting elegantly with gold details, including a cap, ribbon trim, and a label featuring the House's heritage arabesque design.
Encens Mythique d'Orient is part of Guerlain's Les Absolus d'Orient collection, which includes other fragrances such as Epices Exquises, Santal Royal, and Cuir Intense. The collection celebrates perfumery's precious woods and noble raw materials, inviting wearers on an exquisite journey where rich notes, bold fragrances, and opulent materials combine.
The perfume has received mixed reviews, with some praising its uniqueness, complexity, and longevity, while others find it too expensive and not worth the price. Some reviewers describe the scent as a "meditative and complex," "sumptuous rose with incense," and "salty marine rose entry." Others find it too soapy, aldehydic, or lacking evolution. Overall, Guerlain's Encens Mythique d'Orient is a sophisticated and enigmatic fragrance that evokes a range of emotions and sensations.
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Ambre Supreme
Ambre Suprême by Les Indemodables is an oriental fragrance for women and men, launched in 2021. The perfumer behind this scent is Antoine Lie, who is known for his original and masterfully blended creations. Ambre Suprême features a rare and natural form of ambergris, which is usually synthetic in most perfumes. This fragrance contains 10% Ambre gris, a significantly higher concentration than what is typically found in the market.
The scent opens with top notes of aldehydes, clary sage, pink pepper, and cardamom, creating a fresh and spicy aroma. The heart of the fragrance is composed of Moroccan jasmine, neroli, and patchouli, adding a floral touch. The base notes of ambergris and immortelle give Ambre Suprême its signature warmth and depth.
The natural ambergris in this fragrance is described as silky smooth and tame, with a salty and sensual character reminiscent of skin after a swim in the sea. It is an addictive scent that draws you in and makes you want to keep smelling it. The overall impression is of a well-blended, timeless classic that will not go out of style.
In terms of performance, Ambre Suprême has strong longevity, lasting for 24 hours or more on the skin. Its sillage is moderate, with a wide radius that draws compliments from others. The fragrance works well in hot and humid climates, making it a perfect choice for summer nights and outdoor events.
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Frequently asked questions
Many colognes contain ambergris, either natural or synthetic, including Baccarat Rouge 540, Creed Green Irish Tweed, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Lover, Guerlain Encens Mythique d'Orient, and Eau de Merveilles by Hermes.
Ambergris is a waxy substance produced by sperm whales. It is one of the most valuable raw materials in perfumery and has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years.
Ambergris has a distinctive scent that is marine, animalic, and sweet.
Ambergris is rare and has a unique fragrance that is highly prized in perfumery. It also acts as a fixative, helping the perfume last longer on the skin.
While natural ambergris is obtained without killing or harming the sperm whale, many perfumes now use synthetic ambergris due to ethical and environmental concerns.