While the terms cologne and perfume are often used to refer to fragrances for men and women respectively, the distinction is not so clear-cut. In fact, the original purpose of perfume was to deodorize and protect against disease, and both men and women used fragrant products from plants in the same way. The differentiation between perfume for men and women is a relatively new concept, arising from the sexualization of perfume in the late 19th century and the rise of American marketing in the 1950s. Today, the boundaries between genders are becoming less defined, and unisex fragrances are increasingly valued and affirmed. For example, Calvin Klein's CK One is a popular unisex fragrance.
What You'll Learn
Unisex fragrances
While the idea that certain fragrances are for men and others for women is a relatively recent trend, it is still a distinction that is commonly made. However, this is beginning to change as the boundaries between genders crumble, and more and more unisex fragrances are entering the market.
The first rare unisex fragrances appeared in the 1990s, thanks to designer Calvin Klein and the iconic CK One for women and men. This perfume has been a success with an entire generation and paved the way for a new genderless approach to fragrance. Today, perfumers such as Jo Malone offer entirely unisex collections.
When it comes to choosing a fragrance, it's important to remember that anyone can wear any scent, regardless of the gender they identify with. However, brands typically market fruit or floral-heavy fragrances as feminine, while scents featuring notes like wood, leather, and spices are considered masculine.
- Calvin Klein CK One: A blend of green tea, musk, lemon, and jasmine.
- Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver: A speakeasy in Kyoto with notes of juniper berries, nutmeg, musk, and coriander.
- Maison Margiela Replica: At The Barber's: A modern classic with notes of leather and lavender, creating a woody and earthy aroma.
- Chanel Paris-Deauville: A fresh and exotic scent from Chanel's Les Eaux des Chanel collection, where basil mingles with Sicilian orange.
- Ralph Lauren Ralph's Club Eau de Parfum: An aromatic and elegant crowd-pleaser with notes of warm cedarwood and vetiver, mingling with fresh lavandin and clary sage.
- Stüssy Laguna Beach: A beachy fragrance that smells like the ocean rather than tropical paradise, with notes of moss, cedar, white florals, and natural marine freshness.
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Fragrance families
There are four main fragrance families: warm, woody, amber (previously known as "oriental"), and fresh. These families each take a respective space on the Fragrance Wheel, a circular diagram that illustrates the four scent families in relation to each of their corresponding subfamilies. The wheel was invented by scent expert Michael Edwards and is updated yearly.
The floral scent family is one of the most common families, usually taking on a feminine characteristic in fragrance. It includes fruity, floral, and soft floral subfamilies with common notes of rose, jasmine, and orange blossom.
The amber scent family includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes. Amber scents can be described as “sensual,” warm, and “exotic.” Subfamilies include soft amber, amber, and woody amber, with common notes of vanilla, myrrh, and anise.
The woody family includes scents that are warm and opulent, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Subfamilies include woods, mossy woods, and dry woods, with common notes of patchouli, vetiver, and sandalwood.
The fresh family is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed with underlying woodsy notes. It includes aromatic, citrus, green, and water subfamilies with common notes of citrus, white flowers, and bergamot.
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Choosing a cologne
Understand the Different Types of Colognes
Colognes are typically classified based on the percentage of perfumed oils they contain. The main types include eau fraiche, eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and parfum. Eau fraiche has the lowest concentration of perfume oil (1-3%), while parfum has the highest (15-40%). The higher the concentration of perfume oil, the longer the scent will last.
Consider the Occasion
When choosing a cologne, think about the occasions you will be wearing it. For example, woody, citrus, or aromatic colognes are versatile and can be worn as a signature scent for everyday use. On the other hand, spicy or leather options might be better suited for special occasions or date nights.
Sample Different Colognes
Don't be afraid to try out different colognes before making a purchase. Fragrance notes can vary greatly, and what smells good on someone else may not work for you. Take your time to test different options and see how they interact with your body chemistry.
Choose a Scent That Matches Your Personality
A cologne should be an extension of your personality and reflect your unique style. If you're adventurous, you might opt for something bold and aromatic. If you prefer something more understated, a subtle and fresh scent might be a better choice.
Pay Attention to Longevity
Consider how long you want your cologne to last. Some colognes are designed to be long-lasting and will leave a trail wherever you go. Others are more subtle and may need to be reapplied throughout the day. Choose the option that aligns with your preferences.
Ask for Feedback
Don't be afraid to ask for feedback from friends, family, or significant others. They can provide valuable insights into how your cologne wears throughout the day and whether it leaves a pleasant impression.
Understand the Difference Between Colognes and Perfumes
While the terms "cologne" and "perfume" are often used interchangeably, there is a technical difference. Colognes typically have a lower concentration of fragrance oil and are marketed towards men. Perfumes have a higher concentration of fragrance oil and are usually associated with women. However, these days, many fragrances are designed to be unisex, so don't be afraid to explore options outside of traditional gender boundaries.
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How to apply cologne
Applying cologne is an art form. Done properly, it can make you feel more attractive and confident. Done incorrectly, it can lead to over-application or a scent that fades almost immediately. Here are some tips on how to apply cologne correctly and effectively:
Choosing a Cologne
Before we get into the application, it's important to choose a cologne that complements your natural body chemistry and fits your lifestyle in terms of how long the scent lasts. Some colognes, usually the more expensive ones, have longer-lasting scents and may smell different throughout the day.
Application Technique
- Apply cologne directly onto clean, dry skin immediately after showering. The shower cleanses your body of any other scents and opens your pores, helping the scent absorb.
- Hold the spray bottle 3-6 inches from your body. Holding the bottle any closer risks over-application, while spraying further away will likely result in under-application.
- Apply cologne to heated areas of your body, such as the neck, chest, pulse points, forearms, or inner elbows. The heat helps diffuse the scent throughout the day and allows it to meld with your body chemistry to develop your signature scent.
- Start with a light application. Choose one area, such as the neck or forearms, and apply one spray. If you notice that the scent fades quickly, choose another area and apply cologne there the next time. You may want to ask the opinion of a close friend or family member, as you can become nose-blind to scents you wear often.
- Re-apply cologne if needed, especially if you are going out in the evening. When re-applying, simply dab a little onto your pulse points.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Do not spray the fragrance on your clothing. This prevents it from mixing with your natural oils, giving it its unique quality. It can also prevent the scent from going through its different stages and may damage certain fabrics.
- Do not splash the cologne on your skin. If the fragrance does not have a spray nozzle, place one finger over the opening of the bottle, gently tip it upside down, and then dab the scent on your body.
- Do not spray a mist cloud and walk through it. This method renders the cologne almost useless as most of it ends up on the floor.
- Do not rub the cologne into your skin, as this can make the scent fade faster by breaking the molecular bond in the fragrance. If you are not going to spray, simply dab it on.
- Avoid applying too much cologne. A subtle enhancement is best; less is more. Start light and ask a friend or significant other if they think you need more or less.
Making Your Cologne Last
Cologne does not have an infinite shelf life. To make it last longer, keep it in its original box, as light exposure can cause fragrances to deteriorate. Store it in a dark place and avoid direct sunlight and fluctuations in temperature, as these can shorten its lifetime.
Now that you know how to apply cologne correctly, you can enjoy the perks of daily usage. Apply it appropriately, and you may start to notice a boost in confidence and maybe even the occasional compliment!
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Making cologne last longer
While colognes are designed to be long-lasting, there are several ways to ensure that your cologne lasts even longer. Here are some tips to help you make your cologne last longer:
Application Techniques:
- Apply Right After a Shower: The best time to apply cologne is immediately after a shower when your pores are most open, allowing the cologne to seep into your skin and giving it a longer-lasting aroma.
- Moisturize Beforehand: Applying an unscented lotion or moisturizer before spraying your cologne can help retain the scent for a more extended period. The moisturizer acts as a base, and the cologne won't evaporate as quickly.
- Layer Your Fragrance: Using complementary products like soaps, aftershaves, and body balms from the same range can help remove competing scents, allowing your cologne to stand out.
- Apply on Pulse Points: Spraying cologne on pulse points, such as wrists, neck, inside elbows, and behind the knees, can help amplify the fragrance due to the warmth of these areas.
- Apply to the Top of Your Ears: Applying cologne to areas with natural oils, like the top of your ears, can help hold the fragrance for longer.
- Avoid Rubbing: Instead of rubbing the cologne into your skin, lightly dab it onto your pulse points to avoid breaking down the aroma and make it last longer.
- Spray Your Comb or Brush: For hair that smells great all day, spray a small amount of cologne onto your brush or comb before styling, avoiding direct application to the hair or scalp.
- Spray on Your Clothes: Spritzing your cologne on sturdy fabrics like cotton, denim, or wool can help make the scent last longer, as the microfibers hold the scent in place.
- Avoid the "Spray and Walk" Method: Spritzing cologne into the air and walking into it is wasteful and ineffective. Instead, apply the cologne directly onto your skin for a more lasting impression.
Storage Tips:
- Avoid the Bathroom: Heat, humidity, and light can break down your cologne, reducing its strength. Store your cologne in a cool, dry place, like your bedroom or closet, away from direct sunlight.
- Keep It Away from Extreme Temperatures: Extreme temperatures can also negatively impact your cologne, so it's best to keep it in a stable environment.
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Frequently asked questions
Colognes typically have a lower amount of fragrance oil in their composition (2-4%) compared to perfumes, which feature around 20%. An eau de parfum has around 15% fragrance oil, while an eau de toilette has between 5% and 15%.
Unisex fragrances include Calvin Klein CK One, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver, Dior Bois D'Argent, and Guerlain Shalimar.
Popular men's colognes that women like include Dior Sauvage, Bleu de Chanel, Terre D'Hermes by Hermes, and Paco Rabanne One Million Parfum.
When choosing a cologne, consider the different fragrance families (e.g. woody, citrus, aromatic) and identify which ones work best for your desired context. It's also helpful to understand a scent's vibe and how it will manifest on your skin. To apply cologne, spray it on your pulse points such as your wrists, neck, and behind your ears.