The Complex Notes Of Cologne: Beyond The Rose

The rose is one of perfumery's most enduring notes, and its popularity is currently blooming. While rose perfumes are often associated with romance and Valentine's Day, they can be worn all year round and are brimming with surprises.

Rose perfumes are typically associated with a linear, singular ode to the flower, but today's best rose perfumes are more complex. They often contrast rose with green, aquatic, or oud accords to create something unique.

There are several different types of rose used in perfumery, and each lends itself well to different accords. Rose oil, or otto, is a pure distillation of rose that tends to smell cool, fresh, and green. At the other end of the spectrum, rose absolute is responsible for bold, amber, and earthy trails.

Rose perfumes can be worn by both men and women, and the note can take the lead role or work in the background. It is a universal ingredient that can be combined with almost any other perfumery material, including citrus, fruit, wood, aldehyde, aquatic, leather, sweet, spicy, or balsamic notes.

Some popular rose perfumes include:

- Jo Malone London Red Roses

- Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh

- Dior Miss Dior Rose N'Roses

- Chloe Roses de Chloe

- Tom Ford Cafe Rose

- Bulgari Rose Goldea

- Maison Francis Kurkdjian A La Rose

- Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

- Byredo Rose of No Man's Land

- Gucci A Song for the Rose

Rose oil and its distillation

Rose oil, also known as rose otto, attar of rose, attar of roses, or rose essence, is the essential oil extracted from the petals of various types of rose. The scent of rose oil is close to the real scent of a rose, and it is extremely versatile. A perfumer can use small amounts of rose oil to make things smell finer and fresher.

There are three main methods of extracting rose oil from the plant material: steam distillation, solvent extraction, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction.

Steam Distillation

Rose ottos are extracted through steam distillation, which produces an essential oil called rose otto or attar of roses. In the first part of the two-stage process of distillation, large stills – traditionally made of copper – are filled with roses and water. The still is fired for 60–105 minutes. The vaporized water and rose oil exit the still and enter a condensing apparatus and are then collected in a flask. This distillation yields a very concentrated oil, direct oil, which makes up about 20% of the final product of the whole process. The water that condenses along with the oil is drained off and redistilled to obtain the water-soluble fractions of the rose oil, such as phenethyl alcohol, which is a vital component of the aroma and makes up the large bulk (80%) of the oil. The two oils are then combined to make the final rose attar.

Solvent Extraction

Rose absolutes are obtained through solvent extraction, which is more commonly used in perfumery. In this method, the flowers are agitated in a vat with a solvent such as hexane, which draws out the aroma compounds, as well as other soluble substances such as wax and pigments. The extract is then subjected to vacuum processing, which removes the solvent for re-use, leaving behind a waxy mass known as a concrete. The concrete is then mixed with alcohol, which dissolves the aromatic constituents and leaves behind the wax and other substances. The alcohol is then evaporated at low pressure, leaving behind the finished absolute.

Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extraction

A third process, supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, combines the best aspects of the other two methods. Carbon dioxide becomes a supercritical fluid with the permeation properties of a gas and the solvation properties of a liquid when put under at least 72.9 atm (73.9 bar) of pressure and a temperature of at least 31.1 °C (88.0 °F). This supercritical fluid extracts the aromatics from the plant material. Like solvent extraction, the CO2 extraction takes place at low temperatures, extracts a wide range of compounds, and leaves the aromatics unaltered by heat. Because CO2 is a gas at normal atmospheric pressure, it leaves no trace of itself in the final product. However, the equipment for CO2 extraction is expensive, which is reflected in the price of the essential oils obtained.

Rose Oil Yield

It takes a large number of rose petals to distill a small amount of essential oil. The typical yield can be approximately 1:3,000, depending on the extraction method and plant species. The price of rose essential oil is significantly higher as the oil yield from rose flowers is very small. The production of rose essential oil is a lucrative source of revenue for rural communities. However, the distillation technology used to obtain rose oil has a considerable environmental impact, and a renewable energy-powered extraction system must be designed and deployed to protect the environment.

Rose perfumes for women

Rose perfumes are incredibly feminine, soft, and sensual. They are usually exclusive to women's fragrances, but some brands are creating unisex fragrances with rose notes. The scent of rose has a positive effect on the human psyche, relaxing and balancing the nervous system.

Armani Passione Éclat

Delicate and romantic, this scent combines fruity, floral, and sweet notes, encapsulating the confidence of a modern woman.

YSL Mon Paris Intensément

This fragrance features different types of roses, including essences of rosa centifolia absolute, Bulgarian rose, and white peony. It also has floral and spicy, woody scents of freesia, datura, and benzoin resin.

MUGLER Angel Nova

At the heart of this fragrance is the Damask rose, which represents natural beauty and femininity. It is complemented by fruity and woody nuances.

Viktor & Rolf Dew

The beguiling heart of this perfume is composed of rose and iris, with a summery, light, and breezy vibe.

Prada Infusion de Rose

This unisex fragrance pays homage to wild roses. Its scent is reminiscent of blooming fields and intertwined forest pathways. It is fresh and green rather than sweet.

Yardley London English Rose EDT/ Eau de Toilette

This perfume has notes of violet leaf and rose otto and is a floral women's perfume.

Lacoste L.12.12 Rose Eau de Parfum

This rose perfume by Lacoste has excellent reviews.

Yardley London English Rose Fragrance Mist

Another offering by Yardley London, this fragrance mist is a cheaper alternative to the EDT.

Michael Bublé Fragrances By Invitation Rose Gold

This rose perfume for women has excellent reviews.

THE BODYSHOP British Rose Eau de Toilette

This vegan rose fragrance is highly rated.

Coach Wild Rose Eau de Parfum

This wild rose fragrance by Coach is a popular choice, with excellent reviews.

Philosophy Amazing Grace Ballet Rose Eau de Toilette

This softer rose scent can be worn day and night.

Jo Malone London Red Roses Cologne

This highly-rated cologne is described as fresh and clean, yet packed with notes of wild rose.

Jo Loves White Rose & Lemon Leaves

Jo Malone's signature rose perfume has a refreshing twist of lemon and a base of cedarwood.

Bon Parfumeur 101 Eau de Parfum

This crowd-pleasing, musky floral scent has white damask rose at its centre, with lily of the valley and cardamom adding sparkle and gentle spice.

Byredo Young Rose Eau de Parfum

Byredo's lightest and most modern rose perfume yet, with Sichuan pepper and ambrette seed adding a bite to the scent of rose.

Frederic Malle Rose & Cuir

A simple yet impactful combination of rose and leather, with a twist of blackcurrant, this fragrance is even Alexa Chung's signature scent.

Narciso Rodriguez Musc Noir Rose

The original Musc Noir fragrance by Narciso Rodriguez is given a sophisticated twist with the addition of rose.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Rosa Rossa Eau De Toilette

This youthful and romantic rose fragrance is made from 95% natural ingredients and housed in an infinitely refillable glass bottle.

Dior Miss Dior Rose N'Roses Eau de Toilette

This rose scent is a little stronger and will last for hours. It has been described as "mature" and "more musky".

Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh

A fresh rose perfume, light and clean, yet packed with notes of wild rose. It also has fruity floral notes of raspberry, grapefruit, and plum.

CHLOE Roses de Chloé

For the real rose fanatic, this fragrance highlights fresh-cut roses, with subtle notes of magnolia, white musk, and amber.

FRESH Rose Morning Eau de Parfum

This eau de parfum is a dewy, fresh air scent with hints of rose, violet, and black currant.

Prada Les Infusions Rose Eau de Parfum

This eau de parfum is undeniably rose, featuring notes of three different kinds of roses, with a lighter, breezier finish.

Chloe Chloé for Women

The original Chloé eau de parfum delivers a hint of rose along with peony, freesia, and lily of the valley.

Yves Saint Laurent Paris for Women

This woody floral classic has been around since 1983 and has rose in its top and middle notes, surrounded by iris, violet, and lily of the valley.

ESTEE LAUDER Beauty Evening Rose

This eau de parfum has rose notes topped with cognac and blackberry, with a touch of warmth and spice.

Tocca Bianca Eau de Parfum

Rose petals and mandarin complement each other in this light eau de parfum.

Givenchy Very Irrésistible Eau de Toilette

This eau de toilette, launched in 2003, still feels young and fresh, with a blend of rose blossoms, peony, star anise, and verbena leaf.

Dior Miss Dior Parfum

The sparkling rose and jasmine trail of Miss Dior became the signature scent of the young generation when it was first created in 1947. It has now been reimagined by house perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who has amped up the bright, mood-boosting florals.

Le Labo Rose 31

This warm and inviting fragrance has c

Rose perfumes for men

While rose fragrances were once considered outdated, they have been making a comeback in the perfume world, with perfumers recognising that nothing is lovelier than soothing rosewater. Rose is one of perfumery's most enduring notes, and its popularity is blooming.

The scent of rose oil is close to the real scent of a rose, and as a note, it's extremely versatile. A perfumer can use small amounts of rose oil to make things smell finer and fresher, without you knowing it's there.

Today's best rose perfumes are more than a simple ode to the flower, with many contrasting rose against green, aquatic or oud accords to create something unique.

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

Described as a masterpiece, this fragrance combines dark rose with truffle and patchouli. It is a masculine and attractive scent.

Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle

A jammy rose with patchouli, berries, and incense. This fragrance is surprisingly masculine-leaning and is considered a gorgeous, masculine rose.

Ambre Nuit by Dior

An elegant rose with an amber/ambergris accord and soft pink peppercorn.

Les Sables Roses by Louis Vuitton

A rich rose with oud and saffron.

L'Homme A La Rose by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

A nice rose fragrance for men that isn’t overly floral. It has a nice green rose stem scent to brighten it up.

Declaration d'Un Soir by Cartier

A beautiful fragrance that makes an impression.

Oud Dream by Montale

One of the best rose scents for men, according to one reviewer.

L'Homme Ultime by Yves Saint Laurent

A masculine and awesome rose scent.

Experimentum Crucis by Etat Libre d'Orange

A fantastic-smelling, fantastic-performing rose fragrance.

06 Incense Rose by Tauer Perfumes

This is a masculine scent with a green, rough, immature, and citrusy rose scent.

Black Aoud by Montale

A strong, clean, and pure rose smell.

Smyrna by Le Couvent Maison de Parfum

A masculine rose scent.

Red Roses by Jo Malone London

A highly-rated cologne for its smell, satisfaction, and appearance.

Trish McEvoy Black Rose Oud

A blend of the delicate essence of roses with invigorating notes.

Vilhelm Parfumerie Smoke Show Eau de Parfum

A blend of the essence of roses with other notes to create an unforgettable olfactory experience.

Rose-scented body sprays

While cologne is not just roses, rose is a common and enduring fragrance note in cologne.

If you're looking for rose-scented body sprays, there are plenty of options to choose from. Here are some recommendations for rose-scented body sprays that you can consider:

• Bath & Body Works Rose Fine Fragrance Mist: This body mist offers a clean, playful, and light flower shop delight with notes of airy rose water, jasmine petals, and creamy musk. It's highly rated by customers for its scent, satisfaction, and appearance.
• Yardley of London English Rose Moisturising Fragrance Body Mist: This body mist provides a refreshing and floral scent with citrusy notes. It's a popular choice among customers, with many positive reviews.
• Victoria's Secret Bare Rose Fine Body Mist: While there are no customer reviews for this product, Victoria's Secret is a well-known brand for fragrances, and this body mist is likely to be a good choice.
• Jo Malone London Red Roses Cologne: This cologne is a luxurious option, with a sophisticated and romantic scent. It is highly rated by customers, although it is more expensive than other options.
• Paris Hilton Rose Rush Body Spray: This body spray offers a floral and fruity fragrance with notes of rose petals, papaya, and amber. It's a feminine and flirty scent that is said to be long-lasting.
• Diptyque Eau Capitale: While this fragrance includes other notes such as bergamot and pink peppercorn, it still features the complex, musky scent of roses and is described as warm and complimentary.
• Dior Miss Dior Rose N'Roses Eau de Toilette: This rose scent is mixed with citrus Italian mandarin and white musk accord, giving it a stronger and longer-lasting fragrance. Some reviewers describe it as "mature" and "musky," so it may not be the best option if you prefer lighter scents.
• Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh: This rose perfume is described as fresh, light, and clean, with notes of wild rose, grapefruit, plum, and raspberry. It's said to remind people of springtime.

These options vary in price, scent combinations, and availability, so you can choose the one that best suits your preferences and needs.

Rose-scented candles

When it comes to rose-scented candles, there are a variety of options available in terms of size, style, and price range. Many candles are made from soy wax, which is a healthier and cleaner-burning alternative to traditional paraffin wax. Soy candles also tend to have a better scent throw, filling a room with fragrance more effectively. Some candles are made from a blend of soy and rapeseed wax, which creates a sustainable option that still has a good burn and scent throw.

In addition to the type of wax, the size of the candle will also determine the burn time. Smaller candles, such as tea lights, may burn for around 6-8 hours, while larger candles can provide up to 50 hours of fragrance. The scent of the candle can also vary, with some candles simply smelling of roses, while others may combine the rose scent with other fragrances such as sandalwood, oud, or vanilla.

When purchasing a rose-scented candle, it is important to consider the size of the space where the candle will be used, as well as the desired burn time and fragrance strength. Those with allergies or asthma may also want to look for candles that are phthalate-free and made from natural ingredients.

Overall, rose-scented candles can be a beautiful and elegant way to bring the scent of roses into any space, creating a relaxing and romantic atmosphere.

Frequently asked questions