Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name originally comes from the Late Greek 'moskhos', from Persian 'mushk' and Sanskrit 'muska' (meaning 'testicle'), derived from the Proto-Indo-European noun 'muhs' meaning 'mouse'. The musk pod is obtained from the male musk deer, native to Russia and Asia, and is usually dried and tinctured with alcohol to create a base note that adds a sensual quality to the scent and helps it to last longer. Today, however, natural musk is no longer used in fragrances due to the endangerment of the musk deer, and synthetic alternatives are used instead.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Description | A warm, subtle scent with a complex range of powdery, sweet, woody, and earthy aroma impressions. Fruity or floral undertones can also be detected depending on the musk. |
Colour | White |
Natural Sources | Male musk deer, musk civet (a cat), muskrat, musk duck, muskox, musk shrew, musk beetle, African civet, musk turtle, American alligator, lynx musk, lungurion, angelica archangelica, Abelmoschus moschatus (musk flower/musk seeds), muskwood, and several other animals and plants. |
Synthetic Sources | Muscone, aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. |
Use in Perfumes | Musk is usually added to the base notes as a fixative to help the fragrance last longer and sometimes to add a sensual quality to the scent. |
What You'll Learn
History of musk in cologne
Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name "musk" originally designated a strong-smelling brownish substance secreted by the male musk deer. The substance has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times and is one of the most expensive animal products in the world.
The history of musk in cologne dates back to the 6th century when it was brought from India by Greek explorers. Arabic and Byzantine perfumers, including the famous Al-Kindi, later perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musk's popularity spread along the silk and spice routes.
Natural musk was extensively used in perfumery until the late 19th century when economic and ethical concerns led to the adoption of synthetic musk, which is now used almost exclusively. The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odour of musk is muscone.
The use of natural musk was prohibited in 1979 when the musk deer was protected as an endangered species. Today, synthetic musk, often referred to as "white musk," is one of the most commonly used notes in creating perfumes, offering a more ethical and cost-effective approach.
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How musk is obtained
Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. The name "musk" was originally given to the strong-smelling secretion of the musk deer, a glandular sac situated under the skin of the abdomen of male musk deer. The musk pod, as it is known, is normally obtained by killing the male deer through traps laid in the wild.
The reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod is dried and turned into a powder, which is then tinctured with alcohol. The tincture, after several months or even years, develops a pleasant aroma. The scent of musk is said to be animalistic, earthy, and woody, or akin to the scent of a baby's skin.
In the past, musk was extensively used in perfumery, but today, nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumes is synthetic, sometimes called "white musk". The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odour of musk is muscone, which can be synthesized and used in perfumes.
Synthetic musk can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. The latter is expected to replace the former two classes due to safety concerns.
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Synthetic musk
- Nitro musks: The oldest type of synthetic musk, developed from 1888 by A. Bauer. Examples include musk ambrette, musk xylene, and musccetone. Nitro musks are powdery and tend to be photo-toxic and neurotoxic.
- Polycyclic musks: Generous and round, these musks act as base notes and are commonly used in functional products and fine perfumery. They are cheap, clean-smelling, and adhere well to fabrics. However, they are poorly biodegradable and have been identified in small quantities in human breast milk.
- Macrocyclic musks: The most recent and commonly used type of synthetic musk, some of which are quite expensive. Examples include muscone, muscenone, exaltolide, habanolide, and nirvanolide.
- Linear or alicyclic musks: A newer generation of musks with a more pronounced linen and cotton effect. Examples include helvetolide, serenolide, and romandolide.
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Musk alternatives
Musk is a base note commonly used in perfumes and colognes. It is a class of aromatic substances that includes glandular secretions from animals, plants with similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. The name "musk" comes from the Late Greek "moskhos", which means "testicle", as the gland from which the substance was originally obtained from the male musk deer was thought to resemble a scrotum.
Today, the musk used in perfumes and colognes is mostly synthetic due to economic, ethical, and environmental concerns. This synthetic musk, sometimes called "white musk", can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. While aromatic nitro musks and polycyclic musk compounds have broad industrial uses, they have been found to have carcinogenic properties, leading to a public debate about their use and a ban or reduction of their use in many regions. Macrocyclic musk compounds are expected to replace them as they appear to be safer.
Some alternatives to musk colognes include:
- Woody and earthy colognes: These colognes capture the earthy and woody aspects of musk while adding additional depth and complexity. Examples include Penhaligon's The Tragedy of Lord George Eau de Parfum and Parfums De Marly Haltane Eau de Parfum.
- Spicy-woody colognes: These colognes combine the warmth of musk with spicy notes, creating a sophisticated and intoxicating scent. An example is Tom Ford Ombré Leather Parfum.
- Citrus colognes: Citrus fragrances provide a bright and fresh alternative to the warmth of musk while still offering a long-lasting and appealing scent. Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue EDT is a popular choice in this category.
- Vanilla musk colognes: Vanilla adds a rich and creamy smoothness to the earthiness of musk, resulting in a unique and captivating fragrance. Chanel Allure Homme EDT is a well-known example.
- Fruity colognes: Fruits bring a sweet and playful dimension to the warmth of musk, creating a delightful and inviting scent. Jimmy Choo Man EDT is a popular fruity musk cologne.
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Musk in modern cologne
Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They act as a fixative, helping fragrances to last longer.
The name "musk" comes from the Late Greek "moskhos", derived from the Persian "mushk" and Sanskrit "muṣka", meaning "testicle", due to the resemblance of the musk pod to a scrotum. The musk pod is a gland found in the pouch under the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer. The substance is secreted during mating season and was originally obtained by killing the deer, leading to the animal becoming endangered. Today, the trade of natural musk is controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), and the use of natural musk in fragrances is prohibited.
The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odour of musk is muscone. The first commercially available synthetic musk was created by Albert Baur in 1888. Synthetic musk, often referred to as "white musk", is now used almost exclusively in perfumery. It can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. These synthetic musks have a subtle, powdery, and clean scent, with a warm and rich fragrance.
In addition to synthetic musk, there are also plant-based alternatives to natural musk, such as angelica root, musk mallow, and indoles found in flowers like jasmine.
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Frequently asked questions
Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They have a subtle, warm, and soft scent with a complex range of powdery, sweet, woody, and earthy impressions. Musk is derived from the musk pod, a gland in a pouch under the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer. Today, synthetic and plant-based alternatives are used in fragrances, with the most common variation being labelled 'white musk'.
Natural musk is obtained from the male musk deer, which is native to Russia and Asia, and the animal must be killed in order to extract the musk pod. This led to the musk deer becoming endangered, and there are now laws in place to protect the animal. Synthetic musk was adopted for economic and ethical reasons and has been used almost exclusively since the late 19th century.
The scent of musk is subtle, warm, and soft, with a complex range of powdery, sweet, woody, and earthy impressions. It has been described as a better version of our natural skin scent, adding a sensual quality to fragrances.