Antonio Mcgowan
The fragrance wheel is a tool that helps us understand how different scents belong to certain families and how these scents can complement each other. The wheel was developed by expert perfumer and taxonomist Michael Edwards in 1992 to help retailers and consumers understand fragrances better and make informed decisions when shopping for perfumes. The wheel is divided into four main scent families: floral, oriental (now referred to as amber), woody, and fresh. Each family contains similar aromas that share characteristics or have complementary aspects. The fragrance wheel can be used to identify the prominent notes in a fragrance and visualise how different fragrances can blend well or clash. It is also useful for creating custom fragrances through blending, as it shows how fragrances transition from one into the next.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Help perfumers and consumers understand fragrances on a deeper level and make informed decisions |
| Use cases | Choosing a new fragrance, creating custom fragrances, marketing fragrances, understanding fragrance intricacies and nuances |
| Structure | Circular diagram with four main scent groups and subcategories |
| Main scent groups | Floral, Oriental/Amber, Woody, Fresh |
| Subcategories | Spicy, Gourmand, Aromatic, Citrus, Marine/Ozonic, Green, Fruity |
| Fragrance family relationship | Scents within the same family share similarities and complementary differences; families closest together are more closely related |
| Pairing fragrances | Choose subfamilies that are side-by-side, directly across, or form a triangle on the wheel |
| Notes | Top/head/opening, middle/heart, base |
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What You'll Learn
Identify your favourite fragrance family
The fragrance wheel is a circular diagram that groups scents with similar characteristics. It was developed by fragrance expert Michael Edwards to help retailers suggest perfumes to consumers more efficiently. The four main scent families are Floral, Oriental, Woody, and Fresh, each with its own subfamilies.
To identify your favourite fragrance family, start by grabbing your favourite fragrance oil and putting it on a blotter strip. Fan the strip in front of your nose and try to identify where the fragrance falls on the fragrance wheel. Is it aromatic? Is it green and herbal? Once you've identified the fragrance family, see if you can pinpoint individual notes within that family.
You can also identify your favourite fragrance family by choosing three subfamilies that form a triangle on the wheel. These subfamilies will complement each other. For example, if you like floral oriental notes, look for a scent that also contains woody and water notes.
Another way to identify your favourite fragrance family is to think about your personality and daily mood. Generally, every fragrance family has its admirers worldwide, but floral scents rank top among other categories due to their variety and wide appeal. Floral fragrances typically feature flowery notes like roses, jasmine, lilies, and peonies. They can range from soft and subtle to rich and intricate. Woody scents give off an earthy and warm vibe, while fresh fragrances provide a crisp and clean sensation. Oriental fragrances are rich and spicy, with natural elements and spicy and powdery resin undertones.
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Find complementary scents
The fragrance wheel is a useful tool for understanding how different scents can complement each other. It was created to explore the intricacies of fragrance families and how they can work together. The wheel is divided into four main scent families: floral, oriental (also known as amber), woody, and fresh. Each family consists of a prominent scent, and within these families, there are a range of subfamilies that blend the prominent scent with other fragrances.
To find complementary scents, it's important to first identify which fragrance family you frequently opt for. The fragrance wheel can then be used to find neighbouring families, which will almost always blend harmoniously with your preferred scent family. For example, soft oriental will complement citrus, and oriental will complement water.
If you want to integrate something a little different, look for subcategories that are opposite to your preferred scent on the wheel. Much like complementary colours, these opposite scents will bring a fresh and different note to your fragrance. For example, the Amber and Ozonic categories are often paired together as their contrasting natures create a sophisticated and luxurious aroma.
You can also select three fragrance sub-families that create a triangle on the fragrance wheel. These will complement each other nicely and can create a pleasant top, middle, and base note with a richly complex result. For instance, if you like floral oriental notes, look for a scent that also contains mossy and watery notes.
The fragrance wheel can be a great tool for "training" your sense of smell and helping you understand your fragrance preferences.
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Experiment with new blends
The fragrance wheel is a great tool for experimenting with new blends. It can help you understand how different scents can complement each other and work together harmoniously, as well as how certain fragrances can clash. The wheel is divided into four main olfactory families: Floral, Ambery, Woody, and Fresh. Each family has its own unique fragrance, and within these families, there are various subgroups that blend the prominent scent with other fragrances. For example, the Floral family includes Fruity, Floral, and Soft Floral, while the Ambery family consists of Floral Amber, Soft Amber, Amber, and Woody Amber.
When experimenting with new blends, it is important to understand the different scent families and their relationships to one another. Scents that are closest together on the wheel are more likely to blend well, as they share similar characteristics. For example, Floral Amber, Soft Amber, and Amber are adjacent to each other on the wheel because they have similar olfactory notes. On the other hand, fragrances that are opposite each other on the wheel tend to have contrasting characteristics and can bring a fresh, different note to your blend. For instance, the scent of Dry Woods is the opposite of Soft Floral.
You can also create interesting blends by choosing three fragrances that form a triangle on the wheel. These scents will often complement each other and create a pleasant olfactory experience. For example, you could choose a blend with top notes of ozone and lime, middle notes of cucumber, honeydew melon, and cantaloupe, and base notes of bamboo, powder, and aloe. This blend is fresh and clean, reminiscent of skincare products.
Additionally, you can experiment with blending different fragrance families. For instance, perfumers often blend woody notes with floral and fresh notes to create lighter and brighter compositions. You can also blend fragrances with similar notes, such as Amber and Woody, to create a balanced and familiar aroma. Remember, there are no right or wrong answers when mixing fragrances. It all depends on your personal taste and the purpose of your new blend.
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Understand fragrance placement
The fragrance wheel is a circular diagram that helps to categorise different groups of scents with comparable qualities. It was developed by Michael Edwards, an expert perfumer and taxonomist, to help other perfumers recommend the best possible perfumes for their customers. The wheel is split into four sections: Floral, Oriental (now referred to as Amber), Woody, and Fresh. Each family contains aromas that are similar, share the same characteristics, or have complementary aspects.
Within these four main scent groups, there are a range of scent families that blend the prominent scent with other fragrances. For example, the floral fragrances family includes sweet, strong scents like tuberose, delicate scents like rose, and exotic scents like jasmine. The woody fragrances family includes lavender, which is a subcategory between the woody and fresh scent families, and is often found in masculine fragrances.
The fragrance wheel can be used to determine which fragrances will complement each other and which will clash. There are three ways to use the fragrance wheel to pair scents: the first is to choose your favourite fragrance subfamily and look at the scents on either side of it on the wheel, as side-by-side subfamilies usually complement each other well. The second technique is to choose your favourite subfamily and then look at which subfamily appears directly across from it on the wheel, for example, soft oriental and citrus pair well together. The third technique is to choose a fragrance oil, put it on a blotter strip, and fan it in front of your nose to start taking in the scent. Identify where the fragrance falls on the wheel and use that to guide your blend ideas.
The fragrance wheel can also be used to train your sense of smell and help you identify notes and visualise where they fall on the wheel. This will deepen your understanding and experience of fragrance as a whole.
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Train your sense of smell
Training your sense of smell is a great way to improve your fragrance knowledge and appreciation. It can also be helpful if you've lost your sense of smell due to a virus or other reasons. Here are some tips to train your nose to become a scent expert:
Firstly, pay close attention to your surroundings and make mental notes of different scents you encounter throughout the day. Notice the scent of flowers, rain on the pavement, spices, leaves, food, grass, and anything else that catches your attention. Try to deconstruct the notes in your coffee or tea, and take a moment to savour the aroma of your meals. Drinks, in general, offer a wide range of scents to explore, whether alcoholic or not.
Smell training kits and essential oils can be useful tools. You can use the same four scents every day, spending about 20 seconds on each, or choose scents from four categories: Flowery, Fruity, Spicy, and Resinous. Lemon, rose, clove, and eucalyptus are commonly used in studies. However, feel free to choose any smells you enjoy and have a connection with. You can also use items from your kitchen, like coffee, nutmeg, or citrus fruits, which can be sealed and used multiple times.
When you're actively sniffing, focus your thoughts on what you're trying to smell. Take quick, gentle 'bunny' sniffs and try to 'find' that particular aroma. Relax, breathe, and then move on to the next fragrance. Repeat this process at least twice a day, ideally in the morning and evening.
Finally, make it a social activity whenever possible. Join groups or communities that discuss fragrances, or invite friends to a wine-tasting evening and discuss the different notes you perceive. This can help you identify scents more accurately and broaden your fragrance vocabulary.
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Frequently asked questions
The fragrance wheel is a tool that helps categorise different groups of scents with similar qualities. It was developed by Michael Edwards, an expert perfumer, in 1992 to help both retailers and consumers understand fragrance on a deeper level.
First, identify which fragrance family you frequently opt for. Then, use the wheel to find the neighbouring family or sub-family—these scents will blend harmoniously. If you want to add something a little different, choose a sub-category that is opposite to your favourite on the wheel.
Look at the key ingredients and notes listed in your current products and use a fragrance family guide to categorise them. You can also use fragrance oils and blotter strips to identify where a fragrance falls on the wheel.
The four main fragrance families are floral, oriental (or amber), woody, and fresh. However, there are many variations of the fragrance wheel and other categories may include spicy, gourmand, aromatic, citrus, marine/ozonic, green, and fruity.
