Creating Your Signature Scent: Replicating Favorite Colognes

Recreating your favourite cologne can be a rewarding project. While it's not possible to get an exact match, you can create a scent inspired by your favourite fragrance. The first step is to identify the top, middle, and base notes of the cologne. You can do this by referring to a comprehensive database of fragrances, such as Fragrantica. Once you know the notes, you can gather essential oils and other ingredients to start blending. It's important to understand the fragrance scale and the ratios of different notes when creating your own cologne. After blending, let your fragrance mature for at least a week to allow the scents to meld and develop.

Identify the main notes

Identifying the main notes in a cologne can be challenging, but with some knowledge of fragrance notes and a bit of practice, you can become a pro at recognising the key notes in your favourite cologne. Here are some tips to help you identify the main notes:

Understand the Different Types of Notes

The first step is to familiarise yourself with the different types of fragrance notes. Typically, fragrance notes are categorised into three groups: top notes, middle or heart notes, and base notes. Each type of note has distinct characteristics and plays a specific role in the overall scent.

Top Notes

Top notes are the initial scents that you perceive when you first spray or apply cologne. They are designed to be light, sharp, and fresh, often consisting of citrusy notes like lemon, bergamot, or grapefruit. Other common top notes include fruity and floral essences such as lavender, rose, and apple. These notes usually last for about 5 to 15 minutes before evaporating.

Middle Notes (Heart Notes)

Middle notes, also known as heart notes, form the core of the cologne. They come into play once the top notes start to fade, typically lasting for 2 to 3 hours. Common middle notes include floral scents like jasmine, rose, and lily, as well as spicy notes such as cinnamon and nutmeg. These notes add depth and complexity to the fragrance.

Base Notes

Base notes are the foundation of the cologne and provide depth and warmth. They are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, often consisting of woody scents like sandalwood and cedarwood, as well as musk, vanilla, and amber. Base notes typically appear about 30 minutes after application and can last for several hours or even an entire day.

Smell the Cologne at Different Stages

To identify the different notes in a cologne, smell it at various stages of drying. When you first apply the cologne, focus on the initial scents, which are the top notes. After about 15 to 30 minutes, the middle notes will start to develop, and you'll notice a change in the scent profile. Finally, after about an hour, the base notes will become more prominent, and the cologne will settle into its final form.

Recognise the Characteristics of Each Note Type

Each type of note has distinct characteristics. For example, citrus notes are typically fresh and bright, while floral notes are delicate and romantic. Spicy notes tend to be warm and comforting, and woody notes can be grounding and earthy. Understanding these characteristics will help you identify the notes in your cologne more easily.

Create a Personal Fragrance Library

As you become more familiar with different notes, create your own fragrance library for reference and comparison. This can be a physical collection of colognes or a digital record of your observations. Keep track of the colognes you've tried and what you liked or disliked about them. This will help you refine your preferences and make more informed choices when exploring new fragrances.

Gather essential oils and perfume ingredients

Now that you've identified the key notes in your favourite fragrance, it's time to buy the essential oils and ingredients you need to start mixing your perfume.

• Fragrance ingredients
• Perfume bottle for the final fragrance
• Small vials for storing test blends
• Perfume tester strips (blotters)
• Labels for the vials
• Paper to track experiments
• Measurement tools (droppers, graduated cylinders for volume measurement, or a perfume scale for weight measurement)

You can buy essential oils from Eden Botanicals, or try The Perfumer's Apprentice for bases and blends. You may also want to consider using a carrier, such as alcohol or oil, to help your fragrance stick to the skin.

If you can't find a specific fragrance note, try substituting it with a similar scent from the same fragrance family. For example, if you can't find Virginia cedar, you could use a different type of cedar essential oil.

Once you have gathered all your ingredients and materials, you are ready to start formulating your cologne.

Experiment with blending

Now that you have gathered all the necessary ingredients and tools, it's time to start blending your fragrances. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you with the process:

Set Up Your Workspace:

Lay out all the fragrances, empty vials, and other tools. Ensure you have labels and paper for taking notes. This will help you stay organised and keep track of your experiments.

Familiarise Yourself with the Individual Scents:

Before you begin mixing, it's important to understand how each fragrance smells and how they interact with each other. Place a drop of each fragrance on separate perfume tester strips or blotters. Wave the strips under your nose, both individually and in combination, to familiarise yourself with the scents. This will help you determine how the fragrances blend together and how each note complements or contrasts with one another.

Choose Your Ratio and Start Mixing:

There are different ratios you can use as a starting point for your blend. Matthew Milèo, a chemist and former in-house nose for Chanel, recommends the basic pyramid accord: 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. Alternatively, Carina Chaz, the founder of DedCool, suggests a ratio of 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes. Experiment with different ratios and adjust the quantities until you find a combination that suits your preferences. Remember, perfumery is an art, and it requires patience and practice. Don't be discouraged if your initial attempts don't match your expectations. Keep refining your blend and trust your nose to guide you.

Measure and Mix the Fragrances:

You can measure your ingredients by weight or by volume. Measuring by weight is more accurate and precise, as it accounts for variations in essential oil density. It also allows for easier replication of your recipe. However, measuring by volume is simpler and more intuitive, especially if you are just starting. Whichever method you choose, be sure to take detailed notes on the ratios and adjustments you make. This will help you refine your recipe and recreate your fragrance consistently.

Create Your Base, Heart, and Top Note Blends:

Start by creating your base note blend in a separate vial, combining the chosen base notes according to your desired ratios. Then, create your heart note blend in another vial, followed by your top note blend. Record the quantities used for each oil in a notebook.

Combine the Blends:

Once you have your three blends (base, heart, and top notes), it's time to bring them together. In a larger vial or bottle, add your base, heart, and top note blends, adjusting the ratios until you achieve a scent that resembles your target fragrance.

Add the Carrier:

The amount of carrier agent you add depends on the type of fragrance you want to create. For a stronger parfum, use 16-20% fragrance/essential oil and 80-84% carrier. For an eau de parfum, use 11-15% fragrance/essential oil and 85-89% carrier. Adjust the ratios accordingly for eau de toilette, eau de cologne, or body spray.

Let Your Fragrance Mature:

Once you've created a blend you're happy with, allow it to mature. Store your fragrance in a cool, dark place for at least a week, preferably two weeks, to let the scents meld and develop. After this maturation period, reassess your fragrance and make any final adjustments to perfect your creation.

Remember, replicating a fragrance is a creative process that requires experimentation and refinement. Enjoy the journey of crafting your own signature scent!

Understand the fragrance scale

The fragrance scale is an important aspect of understanding and choosing a cologne or perfume. It refers to the strength of a fragrance, which is determined by the concentration of fragrance oils in the composition. The higher the concentration of oils, the longer the scent will last and the higher the price tends to be.

There are several categories of fragrance concentrations, each with its own unique characteristics:

• Parfum, or extrait de parfum, is the purest form of fragrance with the highest concentration of perfume oils, typically ranging from 15% to 40%. It is the most expensive option and is known for its long-lasting power, often lasting up to eight hours. Parfum is a good choice for those with sensitive skin due to its lower alcohol content compared to other fragrance types.
• Eau de Parfum (EDP) is the next strongest category, containing between 8% and 20% perfume oil. It is a popular choice for fragrances, often worn during the evening or on a night out. EDPs can last for around four to eight hours, depending on the specific formulation.
• Eau de Toilette (EDT) has a lower concentration of perfume oil, ranging from 4% to 15%. This makes it a more affordable option, and it is often favoured for daywear. EDTs typically last for two to four hours.
• Eau de Cologne (EDC) is a much lighter option with a low concentration of perfume oil, usually between 2% and 5%. It is often used as a body splash and needs to be reapplied regularly, as it typically lasts for only two to three hours.
• Eau Fraiche is the most diluted form of fragrance, with a very low concentration of perfume oil (1% to 3%). It is perfect for those who want a subtle, delicate fragrance, and it usually lasts for around an hour.

In addition to these categories, there are also perfume oils, which have a pure oil base and no alcohol or water. Perfume oils can have varying concentrations of fragrance essential oils, up to 20% in some cases. They are known for their longevity and are often applied directly to the skin or inhaled for added benefits.

When choosing a fragrance, it is important to consider not only the scent but also the desired strength and longevity. The fragrance scale provides a helpful guide to navigate the different options and make an informed decision based on personal preferences and needs.

Dilute the fragrance

Once you have your blend of essential oils, you will need to dilute it with a carrier agent. The amount of dilution depends on the type of fragrance you want to create. For example, if you're aiming for an eau de cologne, you'll want to use a ratio of 6-9% fragrance/essential oil to 91-94% carrier agent.

The type of carrier agent you use is also important. Alcohol is a popular choice, as it is easy to acquire and works well as a solvent. However, be aware that fragrance oils lack alcoholic content, so your final product may be a little stronger than the original fragrance.

Another option for a carrier agent is vegetable oil, which will help your cologne stick to your skin. You can also add distilled water and glycerin to your fragrance to dilute it and help it last longer.

Remember, the dilution process is an art, not a science, and it may take some experimentation to get the ratios right. Start with small amounts and adjust as needed.

Frequently asked questions